The subject of pricing is perhaps one of the most emotionally fraught topics in the lingerie world. Consumers are often convinced they’re paying too much for lingerie, while brands and retailers frequently believe their margins are too small. Furthermore, it is true that margins in the lingerie industry are among the narrowest in the fashion world; an absence of automation combined with specialty fabrics and hire R & D costs all mean that lingerie is incredibly expensive to produce…far more than a t-shirt or a pair of jeans.
Ever since I first became interested in the lingerie world, Fleur of England has been on my radar as one of those brands that consistently creates beautiful lingerie. It’s not a brand that I associate with particularly boundary pushing design work, but one that has always created sophisticated and elegant undergarments that I would happily welcome into my own wardrobe.
Uye Surana is an independent brand from NYC with a commitment to ethical manufacturing, supportive bralets and gorgeous textiles. Their products are all sewn in-house in small quantities, and Surana’s designs offer a refreshing take on the overdone strappy trend. Delicate lace trims and plays on transparency/opacity make the aesthetic look fresh and appealing. The brand also has some gorgeous colourways and textiles on offer (including hand-floral-dyed silk). I’ve been wanting to try Uye Surana for a while, so felt pretty lucky when I offered some of their products to review. I chose the Claire bralet, panty and a Deep-V Layering cami.
Helena Stuart, founder, owner, and designer of Only Hearts, does as much work as you’d expect from a woman who has led a company for almost 40 years. Every hour is filled with effortless flitting between fabric choices, retail delivery dates, cost and margin management, color development and more. There is no visible anxiety or stressed-out vibes here. Helena does it all, and makes it look easy.
A little more than a year ago, a young designer, Cristina Aielli, approached me at The Oxford Conference of Corsetry, to ask if I’d be willing to take a look at one of her designs. She was very shy, completely unassuming, and I remember how we went to a little tucked away area because she was worried about showing her work in front of others (last year’s attendees included the […]






