ThirdLove BraFit App Review: Does This Lingerie Startup Change The Game?

Disclosure: ThirdLove sent me this lingerie for review purposes. All opinions are my own.

Editor’s Note: According to a recent email from ThirdLove’s co-founder in response to this article, the company did not send me 34Cs but sample sizes of 34Bs and 34Ds instead. The bras have no size tags (ThirdLove does not sell bras with size tags). The fit portion of this review has been removed until I can try ThirdLove’s products in the correct size.

Update: Our columnist Laura has reviewed ThirdLove’s t-shirt bra. You can find her bra review here.

third love fit app review

ThirdLove is one of several lingerie startups (the others being True & Co. and Adore Me) that have taken the worlds of tech and fashion by storm. Despite numerous (and overwhelmingly positive) features in publications like Fast Company, Refinery29, The Business of Fashion, and Vogue, the intimate apparel industry has had a notably cool response to these new companies.

The lingerie industry has always been a bit resistant to change and reluctant to adopt new technologies. Just yesterday, I read an article on The Lingerie Journal waxing poetic about the “good old days” of pre-internet retail. And every season, I speak to brands and retailers at market that are proud of not having a website, email list, or social media prescence (often with the refrain, “Our customers aren’t online.”) While that kind of posturing may endear them to their other soon-to-obsolete peers, there’s an entire generation – which is soon to be 2 or 3 generations – that’s used to buying things online and may even prefer to buy things online. The lingerie industry’s almost glacial response to online marketing and their larger resistance to technological integration has created a void that other companies are all too eager to fill. Furthermore, the rise in mobile technology has created another gap, particularly for brands who’ve opted not to create apps or mobile-friendly websites. This is the gap ThirdLove is attempting to fill.

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ThirdLove is explicitly about disrupting the traditional approach to lingerie, removing both brick and mortar boutiques and mainstream brands from the lingerie shopping experience. Their app sizes you using image recognition technologies and then recommends bras from their in-house collection for purchase. It’s a virtual fitting and shopping experience, requiring no person-to-person interaction at any stage in the process. ThirdLove’s bra selection includes balconet, plunge, and t-shirt styles in both regular cup sizes and “half cup sizes.” The company also offers a limited selection of loungewear/daywear.

I confess, I felt a bit skeptical about the whole app fitting process. So much of bra fitting is “fuzzy.” There’s no single formula that works for every body, and even when you know your preferred size, changing brands or styles could mean wearing another size. Despite many people’s best efforts, it’s hard to set anything approaching strict parameters around something as subjective as bra fit. For this article, the review is split into two parts: 1) a review of the app and 2) a review of the lingerie.

 

ThirdLove App Review:

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Before I get started, let me just say that I do like the idea of being able to handle all your bra fitting at home. While the “traditional” lingerie industry always recommends seeking out a professional bra fitter at a boutique, it’s worth noting that 1) this recommendation is in the best interests of boutiques and 2) not every person has access to a lingerie boutique (or a Nordstrom). The suggestion to “only go pro” is great if you’re a major city like New York, but lots of people live far from a major metropolitan areas. It’s just not reasonable to suggest that someone drive 50 or 100 or 200 miles to get a professional fitting. I didn’t grow up in a terribly small town, but I lived over 100 miles away from the closest Nordstrom or lingerie boutique…and that is not unusual.

It’s also true that people have circumstances unrelated to distance which may make a boutique bra fitting impossible or at least very difficult. Someone with an anxiety disorder or a physical disability may find that getting to a boutique represents a tremendous obstacle. And unfortunately, some customers face discrimination even when they get to a boutique (as the recent Petticoat Fair incident showed). So there’s definitely a market and justification for solutions like this. People for whom the traditional paradigm is a poor fit needs options too.

That said, as I mentioned before, bra fit is complex. It’s not an exact science, no matter how much some people would like it to be. There’s simply too much variation in bodies.

To use ThirdLove’s bra fitting feature, you first have to download the app (available now to iphone and coming soon to Android) and register. When I first logged in, I was directed to the bra shopping page, but if you to go the top menu and scroll across (towards the left), the bra fitting portion of the app is the first option. From a usability standpoint, it would have been nice, as a first time user, to have the bra app available immediately to me or, barring that, to have it accessible from the dropdown menu, especially since a core piece of ThirdLove’s marketing is bra fit.

Once you get started with the fit app, you’re shown a detailed step-by-step video, which I’ve taken screenshots of below:

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third love fit app review

As you can see, I chose to wear a tank top while testing the app. I also tested the app using three different bras (Natori Feathers in 34D, Claudette Mesh Dessous in 34C, one of ThirdLove’s sample bras in 34C) and braless. I was interested in seeing if the shape of a bra or the fact that it was lined might affect the reading. Once you’re finished with the video presentation and ready to take the photos, ThirdLove gets one shot each from the front and the side. If you’re not holding your phone correctly (for example, if it’s angled up or down or rotated to far), the app instructs you to self-correct before taking the shot. I did have some issues with getting a photo at first (which is why I’ve included the error screen), and it was because of the mirror I was using wasn’t wall-mounted. The app will only work in a wall mounted mirror, such as the one in your bathroom.

third love bra fitting app resultsIn addition to testing the app with different bras and with no bra, I also played around with slightly different arm positions (holding them a bit closer in, holding them a bit further out, etc.) and with slightly different iPhone scaling (for some tests, I filled up the scaling frame; for others, I didn’t, and so on.). For all of my tests, I received the same bra size calculation of 34C (interestingly, the app didn’t used to give sizes at all, so this appears to be a fairly recent development). As you can see for the sample above, even when the individual measurements vary slightly because of “user error,” the fit result is the same. I admit to being impressed by that. An app is useless if it has to be used 100% perfectly all the time, and ThirdLove’s app appears to not only be able to absorb some user imperfections, it also lets you know (through a voice on your phone) if you’re doing something which will render your results useless. That’s smart and I like it.

That said, I don’t know how generalizable these results are. They work for me, but I’m also one of those rare “unicorns” who prefers the Plus Four method of bra fit. I don’t like a tight band. I don’t have much squish. My breasts are on the firmer/self-supporting end of things, and I’m more or less just looking for a bra that hangs out comfortably on my chest. I’m very curious about how this calculator would work for women with smaller breasts (for example A or B cups) and how it would work for women with full busts (specifically in the F cup and above range). I’d also want to know what kind of recommendations it gives for plus size women. As someone who’s fairly close to the fit model standard for the lingerie industry (which is about a 34B), it makes sense that this app would work for me; it may very well be tailored for women with similar proportions to me. However, I want to know how it works with other body types and how successful it is.

I’m also concerned that the algorithm requires wearing an underwired bra (though not a push up bra or sports bra). If a person is very off with their bra size, to the point that the bra is compressing and/or manipulating the flesh, wouldn’t it throw off the measurements? In my case, I wore bras I knew I loved that fit me well, but I’m (obviously) not a typical consumer. How well does the app perform for people who aren’t such an easy case?

Finally, I’m interested in how the algorithm determines who needs half sizes. As you can see from the four fit tests above, my overbust and underbust measures vary by about 1.5″ between the minimum and maximum tests shown. An inch and a half difference should be enough to put me in a half size, I would think. Yet half sizes were never suggested. I’d like to know more about how the calculator decides that particular size placement. However, that’s probably also a trade secret, so…let’s move on to the lingerie review.

ThirdLove Lingerie Review:

Editor’s Note: ThirdLove states they sent sample sizes in 34B and 34D as opposed to fit samples in my size of 34C. The bras did not contain size tags as ThirdLove does not believe in size tags. The fit portion of this review has been removed until the correct size is sent and I can try it on.

ThirdLove sent me several pieces to examine. For bras, I received the Mesh Demi, the Microfiber T-Shirt Bra, the Lace Balconet (in both black and white), and the Mesh Plunge. For knickers, I received the Microfiber Bikini, Mesh Boyshort, and Mesh Thong. ThirdLove’s copy advertises lingerie that’s “both luxurious and affordable” with “high end fabrics and laces that are usually reserved for boutique brands.” They also speak to “help[ing] every woman find a flawless fit without the crazy price tags.” However, as someone who buys a lot of lingerie, I didn’t find the pricing to be exceptionally budget-friendly or affordable. The bras I tried ranged in price from $39 to $64 and the knickers from $10 to $15. While those aren’t Empreinte and La Perla level prices, they’re definitely on par with industry standbys like Natori, Freya, Wacoal, Elle Macpherson, Le Mystere, and Triumph. Put simply, the price point ThirdLove sells at is typical of many mainstream lingerie brands.

I’d also say the materials and silhouettes ThirdLove are not especially fashion-forward or unique. They’re nice enough, but not as nice (in either quality or appearance) as bras I can already buy at this price point from the brands I mentioned. If anything, the collection looks like something I’d find at a Target. And that’s not a dig at Target; plenty of people buy their bras there and that’s okay. However, they don’t usually spend $60 on Target bras either. The materials just don’t feel as good to the touch as what I expect and am used to getting at this price range. The Lace Balconet and Mesh Demi styles in particular felt more like they were in the Felina price range as opposed to Elle Macpherson one. And again, that’s not a dig on Felina…but Felina costs about $20 less than ThirdLove. So the question as a customer is, does the value match the price?

I imagine some of this disparity is because ThirdLove isn’t working at the same volumes that a company like Wacoal is, and so they can’t get a deal on exceptional fabrics and laces. The power raw material price points that come with a large scale operation may not be available. And as a lingerie blogger and someone who works with brands, I’m empathetic to that potential situation. It’s very hard to break into intimate apparel and become a major player (that’s why the big lingerie companies now are the same as they were 10 years ago). But as a consumer, if I’m paying $60 for a bra, I have already certain quality expectations in mind. As of right now, ThirdLove cannot adequately compete with those expectations in terms of style or price. I want to see more sophistication, in both design and material, from this company.

That said, ThirdLove’s bras have some nice touches like a tagless band and padded bra clasps. I also thought the microfiber they use is incredibly soft. For that style, the band and the cups are interior lined with microfiber so that softness is right against your skin. For all the bras, I found the seaming and stitching to be just fine; there’s not much to talk about there.

As I mentioned in the editors’ notes, ThirdLove’s bras have no size tags. At first, I thought that was because I received factory samples, which can sometimes differ from what’s sold. However, one of the founders of ThirdLove has informed me they don’t include sizing on their products deliberately. Their reasoning is because “we believe woman [sic] are more than just a number, and we want our customers to focus on the fit rather than the size.

Maybe I’m just terribly uncool, but I want to know the size of the garment I’ve ordered At the very least, I need to make sure the size I have in hand is the size I’ve actually paid for (I know no one likes to think about fulfillment errors, but they do happen sometimes). In this case, knowing the size of the garments I was sent would also have prevented the earlier confusion and misunderstanding re: this review. Withholding sizing information from women, ostensibly because it’s in their own best interests, strikes me as more than a little paternalistic…as though there’s no other way women could focus on fit. Aside from being amateurish, it also strikes me as being deliberately opaque. If an individual receives a garment that’s a poor fit, can the company just insist “the size was wrong?” The customer has no way to prove or disprove that claim. And how does the company handle factory sizing errors or fulfillment sizing errors? No one likes to think about these two things happening, but they do. And the lack of a sizing tag means errors like this can go on unchecked. I just don’t like this idea.

 

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Final Thoughts:

ThirdLove shows some of the same issues I’m seeing with other lingerie startups right now: a great idea, but underwhelming execution. While the proof of concept appeals to investors and attracts a lot of buzz from the tech community (likely due, at least in part, to lingerie being a “sexy” subject), the follow through falls flat for me. It takes more than algorithms to make and sell lingerie. As a consumer, I don’t care about how nifty the concept is, how many funding dollars have been raised, or how many positive press releases have been generated. What I care about it is the product.

Yes, a great story helps to captivate interest, but it can also be a breeding ground for disappointment when the product doesn’t meet expectations. As I mentioned before, the intimate apparel industry, specifically the bra industry, is difficult to break into. And that’s because making bras is hard. The only way to make any meaningful market penetration in intimates (aside from a massive advertising blitz on the scale of Aerie and Victoria’s Secret) is to make a good product that gets people excited…and has them coming back and telling their friends. From what I’ve seen so far (and this review will be amended once I’m sent a fit sample), I’m not sure ThirdLove is there yet. I just have too many questions.

What do you think of ThirdLove concept? Would you rely on an app to size you correctly? And if you’ve tried ThirdLove’s products, what did you think?

Cora

Cora

Founder and Editor in Chief of The Lingerie Addict. I started TLA in a small studio apartment in 2008. Since then, it's become the leading lingerie blog in the world, and has been featured on the websites for Forbes, CNN, Time, Today, and Fox News. I believe lingerie is fashion too, and that every who wants it deserves gorgeous lingerie.

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7 Comments

  1. 23/07/14 at 17:43

    Great review! So happy to hear your honest feedback on this. I actually really want to review this myself, but I use an android, so I haven’t been able to. I agree with you– I really want new innovations to give a better experience. But I keep being disappointed with the product itself because bra fit is such a complex issue. I’d love to hear what people of different sizes experience with it, because I think that people who usually wear a 34C (like you or I) are the ones who have the *least* amount of bra issues.

    • 23/07/14 at 18:30

      Always good to see you, Caro!

      Just a quick note that I’ve removed the fit portion of this review as ThirdLove states I was not sent the correct size, but I agree…people in our size ranges don’t have many bra fit issues. I’m very interested in seeing how the app works for people at the other ends of the size distribution.

  2. LJ
    23/07/14 at 18:19

    Your reviews of these fit apps/brands read like investigative reporting, more journalism than blogging, precisely bc you don’t post a pr pitch but your thoughts, questions, and feedback. I read something about the difference between being a journalist vs other forms of media is that journalists publish what others don’t want published – the rest is just PR. In these honestly written reviews and questions posed I cannot imagine your opinions and questions being well received . It does seem like the VC world is eager to come up with the next billion dollar company and lingerie Iis the target. But alas this is not slacks like bonobos, or even glasses like Warby Parker where sizing is simple and fit issues minimal – this is the f’in wild Wild West of underwear. Perhaps there is a reason it hasn’t happened…. I can’t help but wonder do they just hire “YES” people or does no one ask the questions you are asking ie. dollar for dollar can a consumer do better buying another co’s bra. If so they should just stop, bc the rest is a gimmick and won’t lead to return business that it will take to be long term profitable! Having worked in corporate side of intimates I can only imagine the ethos of tech that has to be in place preventing logical and educated industry professionals from speaking up and potentially improving the product and delivery method. Sounds like in this case the delivery method /app works but the product does not match up which is a shame bc that is the RESULT and the only thing the consumer gets to keep.

    • 23/07/14 at 18:29

      Thank you for your comment!

      As a quick note, ThirdLove states the samples sent to me were not in my size, and so I’ve removed the fit portion of this review. I look forward to updating this article with accurate fit information as soon as possible.

  3. Evija
    24/07/14 at 0:04

    Short version: pretty epic review.
    Slightly longer version: too bad I can’t test this yet – Android girl here. Tech note as to why (no references though, educated guessing):
    It *will* take more time for the app to be developed for Android – if ThirdLove’s patented technology uses the iPhone as a reference, and those *do* usually come in +/- standard sizes, Android devices simply don’t, and they don’t even follow a pattern of any kind size-wise or camera definition-wise.

    I really enjoy their idea of half cup sizes, and find it lovely they’re offering smaller bands (someone in the US who has created enough buzz about it could help make a difference!). Anyway, what I really don’t like, besides everything you’ve mentioned already, Cora, is that monthly body changes have not been taken into account.
    Hypothetically speaking: What if the app suggests I’m a half cup size, whichever cup, and I used the app at a specific point in my cycle when the breasts are smaller/larger, not realizing it? I would probably order such a bra in a half cup size and be disappointed, perhaps in the price/performance ratio but perhaps in the fact that this suggests I’m a half-something, and that IS something new. //This is based on your review of the quality of the product itself and of it vs the market. In this scenario I’m a US customer using an iPhone and an average budget for clothing, any kind of, from slacks to bras.
    —This part is before I went to their site, now the part where I did—
    Actually, this particular section in their site makes me cringe: “It’s no secret that 80% of women wear the wrong bra size. But have you ever wondered why that number is so high? It’s because many women fall between traditional cup sizes. That’s why we created our signature ½ cups.”
    NO, WE DON’T. Stop making us look like we know nothing, please, that is irritating. Your microfibre may be soft, but your assumption that there’s only 20% of us who know which size we are comfortable in, and fits right, is just a tad too condescending.

    The site also introduces to the “24/7 T-shirt bra” which, albeit good in idea and marketing, misses the core point that any bra can be a 24/7 bra if it’s adequate in quality and meets the wearer’s expectations. At $75 (ooooh, that’s the price for an E cup! I wouldn’t have known if I hadn’t scrolled below!!) I expect really nice lace. I understand that a start-up may not afford to justify the expense difference between standard cup range A-DD and beyond that but hmmmm…. what’s the app for then??

    So I *really* don’t know. This comment started out as pretty hypothetical, got more emotional as I took a closer look at the products, and maybe someone shares the doubt. I do love me a good startup, and I always wish the best of luck for ideas that are appealing to me, but this one, it still leaves me prettttty skeptical.

    TLDR: I don’t think I’d try anything even if it were free or heavily discounted. I understand the implications of startups and bra sizing – AND app development, above all, but as a potential customer I feel like I’m *really* being spoken to as a small child whose breasts have just started budding, if at all, which I’m obviously not. Lots of room for improvement!

  4. Jodi
    24/07/14 at 17:14

    The no-labels issue is awfully…odd. It’s patronizing, as well as annoying to the consumer. As you said, fulfillment errors happen (I’ve ordered one size and gotten another). There’s also needing different sizes because of weight fluctuation (and not being able to tell which bra is the size you want); not to mention multiple women in the same household. How do you easily tell whose bra is whose?

  5. Thursday
    25/07/14 at 7:54

    Aside from the topic of price point and what you get for it here, both the app-based sizing mechanism and the no size tags aspects would prevent me from even downloading the app (which isn’t available for my android anyway). I’m likely not the target customer here, as someone who has only found the best bra size via trial and error. I’d be very, very sceptical about someone telling me what my bra size is, partly because every calculator/fit guide ever has been way off (and at times would just try to sell me bras in a very unsuitable size regardless, because they don’t stock my chosen size). I’d be driven only by curiosity to see how the sizing app would judge my small-cup, large band, asymmetric bust.
    The no tags thing really just seems patronising. If I were concerned about the size on my tag, I’d be wearing something very uncomfortable. I get where they’re coming from, but the execution just seems shady. I think the way forward in dispelling tag anxiety is simply to show women how good fit improves their comfort, posture, and confidence.

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