Posts in category "corset"

In Defense of Ready-to-Wear Corsets

Victoria Dagger in a RTW “Vamp” corset by Pop Antique. Photo by Karolina Marek.

Let me start this post with two disclaimers:
1) I love corsets.
2) A good fit is absolutely key in a corset.

But I don’t think that fully custom is the only way to achieve a good fit in a corset.

Victoria Dagger in a Pop Antique “Flirt” RTW corset, which has a fit comparable to the Valentine shown below.  Victoria is 5’3″.  Photo by Andres Razo.

(Bonus disclaimer: I’m not talking about the kind of ready-to-wear corset that is sweatshop mass-produced with no shape and/or flimsy plastic bones, etc.  As far as I’m concerned, those aren’t even really corsets.)

I touched upon this a bit in a previous post, What (You Didn’t Know) to Look for in a Corset, but I’d like to go into it in more detail.  Unusual for an independent, handmade corsetiere, I actually love to specialize in a ready-to-wear fit rather than bespoke.  My line is called Pop Antique, and to me, there’s a really exciting challenge in creating a single corset pattern that fits an assortment of bodies.  It really pushes me to think about the body, what works, what doesn’t, what has the most wiggle room, etc.

Ulorin Vex in a Pop Antique RTW “Valentine” corset, paired with latex leggings and bolero.  Ulorin is 5’9″ tall.

Now, don’t get me wrong: this is not an article about how custom corsets are redundant and a waste of money, by any stretch.  The going theory is that because RTW corsets try to fit everyone, they actually fit no one, because the percentage of people with truly standard proportions are so small.

Victoria Dagger in a Dollymop for Dark Garden RTW bridal corset. Photo by Chris Gaede.

And maybe that last part is true.  Maybe no one is the ancient Greek ideal of proportion in every single limb.  But most corsets fit only from mid-hip to just above or below the bust, so it doesn’t matter as much if you have short legs or a long pelvis or long arms or broad shoulders or a short neck or a big forehead or any number of other minor differences in proportion.  And in my experience, even if you do have a proportion difference in your torso that affects corset fit, it is often something that can be addressed with one or two simple pattern changes, if it’s not corrected by a slight variation in the lacing gap.  Most commonly, the top or bottom edge will need to be raised or lowered to accommodate torso length, or there will be a circumference change to the rib or hip.

Model and client Elisa Berlin wears her 17″ Ingenue corset by Pop Antique – this shape was achieved with only two pattern changes from the ready-to-wear shape. Photo by Jon Bean Hastings.

The fact of the matter is, ready-to-wear, when designed well, is designed to fit as much of that corsetiere’s target market as possible.  Key to that train of thought are the words “target market” and “designed well.”  Just as each corsetiere has their own aesthetic in terms of color, embellishment, and fabrication, each corsetiere has a different silhouette ideal in their mind, is particularly sensitive to certain fit or comfort issues, and has a different demographic forming their local client base.  If a ready-to-wear fit isn’t right for you, it may just be that the corsetiere’s ready-to-wear line is designed for a different body type or standing posture.  It doesn’t mean their patterns are bad or that your body is shaped weirdly.  And if you are tied to working with that particular corsetmaker (we appreciate your interest and loyalty!), then that’s a great time to talk about pattern adjustments or bespoke fit.

Victoria Dagger in a custom Dark Garden “Grable” corset. Though Dark Garden typically uses flat steels throughout, this fashion show piece was made with spiral steels in deference to Victoria’s preference: having worn many ready-to-wear corsets, it didn’t take long to find out that flat steels bruise her rib cage. © Mask Photo.

You may be wondering if the bespoke corset wouldn’t be a better choice anyway – why not just go for full custom for the first time, and every time?  I want to play devil’s advocate with you for a minute (although RTW corsets are far from the devil).  By wearing corsets, we learn about corsets and our own body and how the two interact.  You learn things from wearing a fully-constructed corset for hours or days that you wouldn’t know from having your measurements taken or a mockup fitting.  You learn that your ribs are really squishy – or really not.  You learn if the compressible part of your waist is very short or long.  You learn about the shape of a back curve that puts pressure on your spine, or your favorite hip spring silhouette.  The more experienced corsetieres will know what to look for and how to balance a lot of those things out, but ultimately we are not psychic, especially if you are ordering online and doing a remote fitting and we can’t even touch you.  And that’s why I think wearing ready-to-wear corsets before you launch into the investment of a fully custom corset is not only valid, but valuable.

Model Raven Le Faye in a Pop Antique RTW size “Demoiselle” sweater corset. Photo by Andres Razo.

Ultimately, ready to wear and custom corsets both come in different grades of quality.  No matter which route you choose, do your research.  A handmade RTW corset is very different from one produced in a Chinese sweatshop, of course, but consider this scenario: some bespoke corsetieres may have a RTW line that they rarely sell and therefore haven’t fully developed or prototyped in an adequate range of styles and sizes.  When designing my ready-to-wear line, I did extensive market research into sizing, then used three fit models of the same size with very different body types to test my samples.  I’m still making tweaks here and there (and that ability is one of the great things about being a small designer and doing everything in-house).  Dark Garden built its ready-to-wear line based its exhaustive archive of custom corset patterns.  And a custom corset from a corsetiere with 5 or 10 or 20 years of experience is very different from one made by someone who is just launching their corset business after making a few corsets for his or herself and a few friends.  When you are corset shopping, that is not the time to bargain hunt.

Model Whitney McCabe backstage at a Pop Antique fashion show, in a RTW Vixen. Whitney, who has only occasionally corseted in the past, wore this ribbon corset all evening – it was so comfortable that she didn’t take it off until after our round of post-show drinks, when she had to leave her ensemble with me.

Do you own any ready-to-wear corsets, or only bespoke?  Who makes your favorite ready-to-wear fit?

The Longline Bra is Reborn: 8 Favorite Picks!

I was at a dinner party recently when a svelte professor friend of mine pulled me aside conspiratorially.  It was Oscar season and everyone had been gossiping about their picks.  What could this woman want to confide in me, I wondered?  But as a lingerie designer I’m pretty used to being sought out for quiet talks about skivvies and other generally private matters.

She leaned in and said, “I am obsessed with longline bras.”  I asked why, and she said they fit her small rib cage and bust in a way that lent support while not causing any digging or discomfort.  She also thought the appearance was more flattering, since there was more fabric in the silhouette and this had an effect of making the area appear larger.  I asked to see (for professional reasons!) and she dartingly looked around at the room full of wine-soaked women and gay men and then lifted her shirt to show me her adorable longline bra from independent brand Fortnight.

The longline bra trend has been going on for a few seasons, and it’s nice to see a reinterpretation of an old silhouette that has been neglected for many years.

Longline bras are those that extend a few inches below the bottom of the cup, over the ribcage and sometimes as far as just above the navel.  Sometimes they are structured like bustiers and have shaping properties.

The longline bra had its heyday in the midcentury, when dresses fit tightly over the rib cage and waist.  A longline bra did the all-in-one job of supporting and shaping the bust as well as slimming the rib cage.  A girdle or structured slip might take over shaping from the rib cage through the waist and hips.  Longline bras were especially good foundations under the popular strapless dresses of the 1950′s since their length allowed them to fit the body more securely without requiring straps in order to stay in place.  They were the functional foundation for the bombshell silhouette of the era–though they were not necessarily considered especially sexy or fashionable pieces as standalone lingerie. 

During the more minimalist lingerie eras of the 60′s and 70′s they all but disappeared in favor of soft cup triangle “no-bra bras,” and haven’t reemerged as fashion pieces until recently.   The longline is a cousin of the bustier, which has maintained a presence since the 80′s, but it can differ in a few ways.  Bustiers are sometimes designed to be worn as ready to wear, and feature strong boning and wiring in their waist and cup structure.  They are often associated with statement-making surface prints, designs, and fabrics that may refer to modes like traditional corsetry, punk, vintage costume, body-con, or hyper embellishment. 

What’s emerged recently in the longline bra is a much softer and sweeter approach.  The length does not necessarily serve a shaping purpose, and in some cases doesn’t involve boning at all.  Here are some favorites of mine:

RETRO AND STRUCTURED

The two styles below make reference to the more structured origin of the retro longline bra.  Va bien is known as a shapewear brand, and I like how this style is both functional as well as sexy (Floral strech lace and power tulle, along with ultra-lift cups and a low plunge).

Va Bien Marquise Plunge Basque $85

Bordelle is a great fashion brand that does gorgeous things with powerful stretch materials and references to feminine bondagewear.  This bra is modern and sexy while having a structured feel to it.

Bordelle Lady Citron Bodice Bra $380

PRETTY AND GIRLY

This new generation of longline bras focus on floral and ditsy prints, lightweight fabrics with low stretch content, and are not designed for shapewear function.

Fortnight Vega Longline $120

Stella McCartney Laura Pottering Bustier Bra, $110.00

By Eloise Dotted Lines Bra $38

La Lilouche Lily Pearl Bralette $118

SOFT BRA

A different direction for the longline trend is the sweet unstructured stretch bralette, designed for light support and a general air of sweetness.

b.Tempt’d by Wacoal Bralette, $18

Only Hearts Lou Lou longline bra $86

What are your thoughts on longline bras?  I’ve read that some larger sized women prefer them because they allow breast weight to be distributed around the rib cage, and I’ve heard others claim they’re hard to find and sizing is difficult.  Any favorite styles or brands?

Laura a.k.a. Lola Haze

I’ve loved lingerie since before that was reasonable. I taught myself drawing, designing, and sewing, and after graduating from Harvard with an English degree, immediately went to work disregarding it and following my passion for fashion. After a few years designing for a big company, I went off on my own and started Lola Haze TM, (named after the title character in “Lolita,” my favorite book). Lola Haze is playwear for the bold woman who loves fun and dresses for herself! I feel happy and lucky that I get to love my job so much, and am thrilled to share my lingerie enthusiasm with The Lingerie Addict!

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Corset Style Watch: Chic & Sheer

Sheer corsetry, a study in contrasts with barely-there fabrications and sinuous steel structure.  Dark Garden’s “Risqué” ready-to-wear corset, balancing sheer mesh and silk satin.

Corset trends are gentle and slow-moving, taking years instead of weeks to build momentum.  Today’s post looks at several chic and sheer corsets, with a focus on the handmade.  Sheer corsets wonderfully exemplify the unique outer/under aesthetic of modern corsetry.  In their lightness, they are often more comfortable (and thin) for wearing all-day as a foundation garment.  Lace overlays look striking as the lace may appear to simultaneously float and sculpt, with the strength layer near-invisible.  The sheerness layers well over clothing, particularly complementary prints, emphasizing dramatic corseted silhouettes yet without the heavy, rigidly corseted look.
In the interest of fairness, I have listed these cinched sweeties in alphabetical order by maker.

Crikey Aphrodite’s lacy sheer corsets would be unquestionably perfect for brides but also style well with feminine daywear looks.
Photo © Clare Coulter Photography

Crikey Aphrodite, Glasgow
Bespoke Corsets
Sheer corsets are the perfect addition to Crikey Aphrodite’s beautiful, feminine line-up of custom corsets, which are popular with local brides.  The sheer styles sometimes have additional textural detailing, such as latticed ribbons on the hips.

Dark Garden’s custom Adelaide corset, a lacy, sheer, cupped style.
Photo © Joel Aron

Dark Garden, San Francisco
Unique Corsetry & Bridal Couture
Dark Garden’s first sheer style was the Adelaide: a fully-custom cupped corset, made to look as if it were structured entirely by its lace overlay.  Following its success, Dark Garden started offering its classic ready-to-wear styles in black and pale peach mesh with silk-duchess satin contrast under the name “Risqué.”  The Risqué is also available with lace overlay, and includes a back panel and 3 pairs of garters.

Pop Antique’s “Flirt” combines a sheer body with quirky contrasting details.
Photo © Andres Razo

Pop Antique, San Francisco
Flirt Corset
Full disclosure: Pop Antique is my line.  The “Flirt” is a sheer corset which it also features a cupped bust, detachable mini panniers at the hips, optional contrast silk fabrication and waist tape, and lacing detail.  I love wearing my Flirt over a teal and purple rose print silk jersey sheath dress to really highlight the pop color and sheer texture.

Sparklewren’s beautiful sheer cincher is one of her few ready to wear styles. Limited edition.
Photo © Catherine Day Photography

Sparklewren, Birmingham
Limited Edition Sheer Cincher
Sparklewren has other sheer designs, but I particularly adore these tiny ready-to-wear cinchers.  They have such a perfectly balanced design, from the barely-there sweetheart silhouette to the artfully placed lace.  She currently has them listed on Etsy, where they are also available in white.

Velda Lauder’s Black Mesh Underbust, ahead of the curve (pun intended!) on the sheer corsetry trend.


Velda Lauder
, London
Underbust Black Mesh Corset
Given this weekend’s tragic news about Velda Lauder’s passing, I don’t know how much longer this corset will be available for purchase, but this incarnation of the sheer style is particularly noteworthy as an early adopter.  When I first saw this corset, it was from an old Lingerie Addict post, Corsetieres & Corset Makers: Off the Rack vs. Custom Made, from 2008!

What Katie Did’s “Cabaret” corset is a sheer version of their classic Morticia underbust.

What Katie Did, London
Cabaret Sheer Morticia Corset
The same pattern as their popular Morticia corset, Cabaret is made of double-layered sheer organza with satin casings, and available in peach or black.

Which is your favorite of the above styles, and why?  What corset trends have you noticed gaining momentum lately?  Please share your thoughts in the comments below!

In Memoriam: Velda Lauder

Velda Lauder with one of her creations.

Over the weekend, I received some incredibly sad, incredibly unexpected news. Velda Lauder, the world-famous corsetiere, passed away on Friday. It’s always distressing when someone you know, respect, and admire dies, but it’s even worse when death comes during that person’s physical, mental, and creative prime.

Velda Lauder Corset as modeled by Bex Paul.

As a blogger, I’ve been enamored of Velda’s work for years. She was one of the first luxury corsetieres I encountered online, and I remember feeling a shiver of delight at her richly worked creations. Completely fantastic and utterly wondrous, all of her corsets were undeniably beautiful, but when I was finally able to see them up close at the Salon International de la Lingerie in Paris, I was able to appreciate how perfectly crafted they were too. These were heirloom pieces; the kind of corsets you could archive or pass on to your children and grandchildren. In fact, many of you are likely familiar with Velda’s work through one of her most famous clients, Dita von Teese, shown in her namesake ‘Dita’ corset below.

Velda Lauder ‘Dita’ corset as modeled by Dita von Teese.

Speaking personally, I only met once Velda face-to-face (at the Paris lingerie show mentioned above), but even that one time I was amazed by her warmth, kindness, and generous spirit. Make no mistake, Velda was a “big deal.” She made corsets for celebrities, models, and fashion icons. She wrote an entire book on the subject of corsets.Velda could have been aloof. She could have ignored me. She could have assigned me to one of her assistants. Instead, she took the time to really talk with me, not just about her work but also about herself. And the force of her personality was truly impressive.

Velda Lauder corset as modeled by Morgana.

I won’t disrespect Velda’s memory and the memories of her friends and family by insisting we were close. But I will say that I wish we had become closer. Velda was one of the people I most looked forward to seeing again when I visit London next year, and it hurts me to know now that will never happen. Because Velda was absolutely someone worth knowing better.

Velda Lauder Swarovski Crystal Corset.

Dear Velda, you will always be missed. You were an amazingly talented designer and author, and I wish I could have been one of the people to call you friend. May you rest in peace.

Treacle

Treacle

Lingerie Blogger. Sugar Junkie. Sci-Fi Geek.

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How to Care for a Corset, Part 3: Corset Storage

Corsets: betcha can’t have just one – but how do you store them all?
Model: Victoria Dagger; Photo: Joel Aron; Corset: Dark Garden

With the winter holiday season officially over, many of us are sorting through the accumulated rubble of our various gifts received and parties thrown.  As for me, I also have been in the process of unpacking from my first move in four years, so as well as picking up a season’s worth of cocktail dresses from my dressing room floor, I have to sort and put away all my regular clothes, including my collection of corsets.  There are several different ways to store a corset; today I’ll cover four basic ways, plus a bonus decorative storage method that I’ve always secretly wanted to try.

Hmmm… wherever shall I put all these corsets??
Model: Victoria Dagger; Photo: Sam Guss; Corset: Sparklewren

1. Laced and laid flat in a drawer
This is perhaps the most simple and obvious solution.  Between wearings, tighten the laces on your corset until its gap is fully closed.  (Put one of the busk loops behind the stud side of the busk while fastening the others like normal; the tension will keep the busk from opening itself.)  Tie off the excess lacing into a bow and then pull it straight up, tucking it inside the corset at the center back.  Lay your corset flat in a drawer, stacking your collection but being careful not to place anything adjacent to a delicate fabric (such as a lace overlay) that might snag it (including the busk of another corset).  You may also fold your corsets in thirds if your drawer is the wrong proportion for them to lay flat.  Depending on the shape distribution and boning pattern, some corsets may not fold well.  Alternatively, you can place them semi-upright in a bin instead of flat in a drawer.

Placing one of the busk loops inside the corset will keep the busk fastened for storage.

Corsets laced shut, folded, and stored semi-upright in a bin at Dark Garden Unique Corsetry.

2. Rolled up and stored in a drawer or bin
With your corset unlaced, roll your corset up around itself, starting with the stud side of the busk and leaving the fashion fabric facing outwards.  When you get to the lacing gap, keep rolling but make sure you catch the ribbon loops at that point.  As with the previous method, the boning placement may affect how well your corset rolls, but the rolling shouldn’t cause any damage to the bones, even for long-term storage.
If you are concerned about your fabric getting dirty or abraded (white corsets, lace overlays, rhinestone detailing, etc.), you may wish to protect it by then wrapping it in a corset bag, pillow case, or perhaps even the leg cut from a pair of nylons.  I wouldn’t recommend storing all of your corsets wrapped if you have a lot of them, as it’ll be hard to tell them all apart if you can’t see the fabric clearly.

3. Hanging from its laces on a hanger
This is how most of my corsets are stored.  You can have your corsets laced or unlaced for this method, but I like to leave them unlaced because then it’s easier to get back into them.  Simply flop your corset over the bar on a hanger so it’s suspended by its laces.  Use a sturdy hanger as the weight of the corset can cause bowing or drooping.  I like to use tiered slack hangers, as closet space is at a high premium for me.  The boning pattern makes no difference with this method; however, protecting more fragile fabrics is less straightforward.  Though I’ve yet to try it, you could place a piece of fabric over the corset in question, like a dropcloth, perhaps pinning a couple of places to keep it from sliding right off every time you go for the adjacent corset or article of clothing.

I like to store my corsets hanging from their laces on a tiered slacks hanger.

4. Laced closed and hanging facing out
Using the busk trick from the first storage method, lace your corset fully shut and tie off the waist loops.  You can tuck the bow into the top of the corset as above, or wrap it around the neck of your hanger.
Method A:  As well as the hanger, you’ll also need some ribbon (probably about two feet should be sufficient) and two safety pins, such as the tiny gold ones that come with a lot of clothing and lingerie.  Cut your ribbon in half (burn the ends if you don’t want it to fray), then fold it in half.  Pin through both layers of ribbon (on the cut end) to the lining of your corset at the side seam to create your own hanger loops.  If your corset is too wide to hang well this way, try pinning the ribbon ends separately to front and back, like a spaghetti strap closer to the princess line.
Method B: Use a skirt hanger, protecting your fabric from the grips with padding made from scraps of fabric or wider ribbon, such as a soft cotton twill.  (Try not to use the padding pieces each time you unclip your corset!)  This method works best for corsets that are roughly the same height all the way across; less well for sweetheart and low-back styles, particularly in larger sizes.
This will create a nice boutique-like feel, particularly if you use high quality, matching hangers.

Corsets clipped to skirt hangers, with padding protecting their fabric from the clips. Dark Garden Unique Corsetry.

When storing your corsets flat (in a drawer or bin, or on a hanger), tighten the laces fully, tie off your “bunny ears,” and tuck them into the top of the corset as shown to keep them tidy and out of the way.

5. Displayed proudly on your wall
I’ve always thought a beautiful and clever way to both store and display a few corsets would be to hang them on my way, like pieces of art.  Follow the directions to hang a corset laced shut, and choose an attractive hanger (such as these padded hangers) from which to hang it.  Then, find a frame that is large enough for the corset and the hanger both.  You won’t need the matboard or the glass – check vintage and thrift stores for bargains on frames missing these components.  Tap in a nail or coat hook where you’d like the top of the hanger to be, hold up the frame for placement, then add a second nail above for the frame.
One warning: leaving your corsets hanging for too long could of course result in them getting dirty or discolored, so be careful about where they’re placed, check them regularly to see if they need cleaning, and perhaps rotate the display every so often.  This is not a long-term storage solution.

You can find some great frames without glass at thrift stores – perfect for displaying a three-dimensional piece like a corset!

How do you store your corsets?  Do you have a method not listed above?  Please share in the comments.