Agent Provocateur Spring/Summer 2014: Lingerie, Bridal, and Swim

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agent-provocateur-gloria-lg

Agent Provocateur’s new Spring/Summer 2014 range was released a few weeks ago, and true to form, they’ve also released a ton of photos to accompany it. I don’t own very much AP, but I can’t deny how strong their branding is. Agent Provocateur is one of the 3 most popular lingerie names in the world (the other two being La Perla and Victoria’s Secret), and they’ve done that through amazing marketing…including their editorially-styled lookbooks, reminiscent of what you’d see in a fashion magazine. Even if you don’t wear Agent Provocateur, there’s still a level of anticipation surrounding their new collections that most other labels just can’t create.

As far as the actual lingerie, this season feels like it’s keeping very close to the AP archives. There are nice pieces here, but they all feel familiar. And if you’ve been a longtime customer of Agent Provocateur, I’m not sure there’s anything exciting enough here to really motivate a new purchase. In addition, while I really dig the big hair and jewelry, the suburban housewife theme feels a little out of place. It’s a tad bit trite for AP…not as transgressive, thoughtful, or creative as some of their other, earlier ad campaigns.

The more I think about it though, the more I realize the company has been going in this more mass-market direction for a couple of years now. The Maggie Gyllenhaal, Witches, Superheroine, and Lady of the Manor campaigns from years past are just that…from years past, and it appears the company has no interest in recapturing that edge, that magical quality, that element of being a provocateur in the sea of generic sameness that is a lot of lingerie.

But I’m sure I’m not the only person who’s been following Agent Provocateur for a few years. What do you think of this new collection? Are there any pieces you would like to own?

agent-provocateur-tina

agent-provocateur-gloria-landscape

agent-provocateur-gretel

Campaign_Petunia

Campaign_Janet_Lead for Launch

Bobbie

Bobbie babydoll

Chrissy

Sandra

Brittnie

Petunia Corset

Petunia

Petunia babydoll

Novah Slip and kimono

Novah

Janet

Terese

Deborah

Bridal_Tigre

Bridal_Iyla

Bridal_Ambrose_Babydoll

Swim_Mazzy_Swimsuit

Swim_Mazzy_Bikini

Swim_Zonia

Swim_Kimmi

Swim_Berry

Swim Blaize

Swim_Talea

Cora

Cora

Founder and Editor in Chief of The Lingerie Addict. I started TLA in a small studio apartment in 2008. Since then, it's become the leading lingerie blog in the world, and has been featured on the websites for Forbes, CNN, Time, Today, and Fox News. I believe lingerie is fashion too, and that every who wants it deserves gorgeous lingerie.

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15 Comments

  1. 06/02/14 at 12:14

    My best friend and and me have seen the pictures you put on Pinterest and I have to say they caused a disturbing feeling.
    I usually have a secret thing for trashy pictures with somehow misplaced actions but I am really not sure if I find any of the photos appealing.
    Non of the girls is showing something like an emotion. They don’t smile, they don’t look seductive, they don’t pout, they don’t show any real facial expressions of any kind. Their faces look just blank. To be honest I think some of them give me the “bought woman” feeling. (Worst was, when my friend pointed out she thinks of a “forced marriage”, and I totally know what she means.)
    They lady with the shopping bags & the green bikini are the only ones which could cause any positive reaction in me to buy into the AP lifestyle. The others really make me reject the product, even though some things are pretty original AP.

  2. 06/02/14 at 15:10

    I love AP, until recently all of my lingerie had the AP label, but after the girls shrunk from stress losing weight, I’ve had to shop around as my phd stipend doesn’t stretch that far! I haven’t been wowed by the new collection, there are a few pieces I’d buy but only to replace similar old AP styles. And I can’t help but feel that they’ve missed the 50s housewife boat by a few years. I’m hoping A/W 2014 will provide some more exciting options. Saying that, I really want the Gloria basque!

  3. 06/02/14 at 15:11

    “The Maggie Gyllenhaal, Witches, Superheroine, and Lady of the Manor campaigns from years past are just that…from years past, and it appears the company has no interest in recapturing that edge, that magical quality, that element of being a provocateur in the sea of generic sameness that is a lot of lingerie.”
    This is exactly how I feel – there isn’t an edge to the designs anymore. They’ve replaced the barbed wire embroidery with flowers, which is so typical for lingerie. I still talk to people about the Maggie Gyllenhaal collection and they remember it.

    It’s very rare these days that I see AP lingerie that I love, much less AP lingerie that I want to spend that much money on. And with the rise of so many independent lingerie brands on the internet, AP isn’t really keeping up with innovative or avant-garde designs (and the price point certainly isn’t competitive). I love AP (I feel like I don’t even have to say this anymore) and how it broke me into edgy lingerie, but these days I’m much more interested in other brands, I’m sad to say.

  4. Diana
    06/02/14 at 15:40

    I purchased a set and a waspie from Agent Provocateur last summer. Although I ordered my size, the bra was ill-fitting, but the panties fit well and the quality of the lace was great. I still am extremely disappointed with the waspie. The satin was fraying around the busk and there were several areas where it had been nicked. One of my cheap underbust corsets is in better shape than that waspie.

    Overall, I learned that luxury doesn’t always equal excellent quality and marksmanship. Although my bad experience is probably an isolated event in the history of this company, I highly doubt I will ever purchase anything more from them.

  5. LAURA
    06/02/14 at 18:17

    As someone who has a closet full of AP. The last set I bought (jet) was very ill fitting and not up to the quality I expect from AP. I was very sad to learn on the tag it was “Made in China” yikes! I spent $60.00 dollars on a bra, that was on sale and I feel like a got ripped off it’s suppose to be a luxury brand! . I’ll be thinking twice before I buy another set, but I still love the designs. Hopefully they get back on track, the new collection is not exciting enough for me maybe next season….

    • 06/02/14 at 20:50

      Most luxury brands make in China – it has some of the best machines and machinists in the world, courtesy of huge amounts of practice and massive investment in manufacturing. The idea that cost of living being lower= lower quality of goods doesn’t really hang together.

    • Scarlett
      09/02/14 at 16:39

      Catherine is right. And what many people do not know: China is quit expensive as a land for production nowadays. – At least compared to others. But after all it’s where the global textile knowledge went. And they have the capacities for big companies.
      Another thing is the “at least the don’t lie” factor. There a many big brands who sew in China and do the last seam or the labeling in their home country. So you can legally say it’s “made in Germany” or “made in UK” for example. (I don’t know how it’s handled in America.)

  6. 06/02/14 at 18:20

    That black and bright floral basque is about the only piece that makes me reflexively reach for my credit card, but I can’t say after really looking at it that I really consider it a “must own” piece, which is about the only time I’d shell out AP money. I’ve got my own wedding coming up, so I’ve been gleefully planning what pieces I’ll splurge on, and I’ve been hankering for some AP, but here I’m just left kind of…tepid.

    As for the campaign, I’m definitely not buying it. Kiss Me Deadly already won the “subversive housewife” game, so I’m not sure why AP thought this would be a good marketing tactic (and I’m in advertising, I know weaksauce work when I see it). This is reaching for the low-hanging fruit of the marketing world and still somehow falling short. This isn’t to say the models aren’t all gorgeous, they absolutely are, but the lifeless expressions they were asked to give don’t sell much besides disinterest. The models from KMD have similar stoic faces, but there’s no arguing they have a sexy aggressiveness, a fierce edge, in their expressions.

    • 06/02/14 at 20:53

      Well I didn’t like to mention it, but now you have ; ) thanks :D

      The more commercial approach the investors took is reaping huge gains in sales and profits, though, pre-tax profits doubling in their last financial year alone. So clearly not everyone shares our tastes :)

  7. Mara
    06/02/14 at 21:27

    Some of AP’s photography choices baffle me. Composition and lighting in the swimwear photos look weird / unattractive to me. And some of the L’agent photos I’ve seen are wildly over exposed.

  8. Martha
    06/02/14 at 22:46

    I think one of the reasons this whole campaign is so stale is because we have great throw-back lingerie these days – and they do the campy setup so much better! It looks like they’re using another lingerie brand’s props.

    Also, I agree with Scarlett – the lack of emotion is weird. It’s too Stepford. What is supposed to entice us here? Looking like robots?

  9. 10/02/14 at 12:03

    Aside from the red Gloria set, there is nothing of great interest here sadly. I haven’t baught any AP since the Maggie Gyllenhaal/Daisy Lowe days which must have been back in 2007 and 2008, as everything they make now seems a bit too tame, the edge is gone. The quality also seems to have gone down as the prices went up, and in short, there are more exciting designers our there right now.

  10. maria
    11/02/14 at 20:24

    I’d like the readers who are disturbed by the models’ lack of expression and emotion in the picture to know that the photographer for this campaign is Miles Aldridge. He is a very well known fashion photographer and his style is about the stepford wife. Please familiarize yourself with his work and interviews. He is incredibly racist and never uses models of color.

    • Thursday
      11/02/14 at 23:41

      I’m also disturbed by poor lighting in many of the shots. The model’s face is ill-lit, and often badly angled. It’s like the faces, and their expressions, don’t even matter.

  11. 13/02/14 at 21:31

    I feel the same way about the poses, set, and expressionless faces. It looks like they’ve really not put much thought into this set-up. Quite boring actually… Who would want to buy this lingerie with the models looking so lifeless, and sad even? It’s kind of depressing… Like someone decided to play dress up with a drug-induced model who’s been trapped in a basement for 3 weeks.

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