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For the Burlesque Goddess in You: Dita Von Teese's First 'Von Follies' Collection for Target

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links.

While Target is in the news stateside for the circus that was the Jason Wu collection this week, they're in the news for an entirely different reason in Australia... the release of Dita von Teese's latest lingerie line, 'Von Follies by Dita von Teese.'

Dita's been releasing sneak peeks of her upcoming collection since November (several of which I posted to The Lingerie Addict Tumblr), and with her impeccable style and timeless beauty I've been looking forward to the Von Follies range as much as everyone else, especially considering the success of Dita's previous two lingerie collections with Frederick's of Hollywood in 2007 and Wonderbra in 2008 and 2009 (why, oh why, didn't I buy everything from these collections?).

Dita von Teese for Frederick's of Hollywood

Dita von Teese for Wonderbra

I loved the sense of pin-up, burlesque, and showmanship she brought to her previous collections. These were pieces meant to be seen, not covered up. And a black lace overwire bra? Ooh la la!

Maybe that's why I felt a little let down when I saw the first release on Target Australia this evening. The Dita von Teese brand is all about glamour and opulence and vintage styling but the pieces I saw were kind of... boring. They're all nice enough; nothing's ugly (of course). But I also feel that nothing stands out about the items Target is carrying so far; nothing makes me say "Now that is something I have to have." I think what's most disappointing is that the standout pieces from the sneak previews (like that overwire bra shown above that I was so excited about) are nowhere to be seen. But there are some positives; the lingerie is pretty, and there are a couple of full bust options.

It could be that I'm looking at this all wrong. Target isn't really known for high-end lingerie; even their Josie Natori for Target collection was underwhelming (and, I think, since discontinued. It's entirely possible that I viewed the Wonderbra and Frederick's collections through the rose-colored glasses of being a lingerie newbie (a lacier version of "Back in my day...."). But I simply don't see this new collection as continuing the spirit of Dita's previous ones, at least not yet. I'm sure it'll sell, and sell well, but I'm not excited. The pieces I've seen so far (which are in side-by-side comparison photos with Dita's ad campaign) feel generic... not special.

In all fairness and to be totally and completely honest, I haven't seen this collection in person. It's only available to Australian shoppers right now and, as you know, I live in the United States. But Super Kawaii Mama (who is a completely awesome blogger) did shop the collection today and you can read her excellent review over at her blog.

So tell me, fellow addicts, what do you think? Would you buy something from this line if you saw it in stores? Is my assessment a bit premature (after all, that overwire bra still looks amazing)? Do you live in Australia and have you been to see Von Follies in person? Let me know in the comments.

Cora Harrington

Founder and Editor in Chief of The Lingerie Addict. Author of In Intimate Detail: How to Choose, Wear, and Love Lingerie. I believe lingerie is fashion too, and that everyone who wants it deserves gorgeous lingerie.

41 Comments on this post

  1. Bridget says:

    I’m a student in Australia, so this line would have been just about perfect for me. It’s nice enough so I can wear it for a bit of fun, but cheap enough so I don’t break the bank and don’t have to feel nervous about ruining it. I live in a country town, so our store doesn’t have the full range. The only thing that has ruined it for me is the sizing, it goes up to a 14D and then the plus-sizes are starting from a 16DD. I’m a 12DD, so it;s already frustrating having to buy grandma-style plus size bras all the time, and when a mildly attractive one is available the skip my size!

  2. Katie says:

    I finally got my mitts on some of Dita’s lingerie here in the UK and my opinion of Dita has gone through the floor! According to her bio her first job at 15 was in a lingerie store, and she’s been in designer lingerie ever since – so how could it all go wrong?
    Looking at the pieces in our atelier we’ve come the the conclusion that she had little to do with the design process other than showing the factory a few of her favourite pieces (garter belt from Secrets in lace, red satin with black dot basque from Nuits de Satin) and let them get on with it.
    What other explaination could there possibly be for an overwire bra which would only fit your breasts if they were spherical in shape, with the overwire sticking up from the body a full 1cm (perhaps this is why Dita always wears this piece sticking out from the neckline of her dress – it couldn’t be worn under clothing as would cause a big ridge.
    I was really excited about her range as I’m a major Dita fan, but find it a bit of an insult (as I do with her Art Deco make up range – standard packaging with her logo printed on).

  3. Dittany says:

    I tried on the overwire bra today and the detachable straps kept popping off. Took quite a few goes just to manage to get the thing on! I do like that the underwear are more generous with the fabric than most, and still manage to be sexy. I want knickers, not fairy floss!

  4. Amanda says:

    I think under a budget this collection is really nice, I keep hearing that they are releasing it to the U.S. soon and I am pretty excited. Yeah it’s a little tone down from her other collections and compared to other retailers. But I feel like this collection was made for everyday wear, underneath everyday clothing. It’s supposed to make you feel pretty and elegant with vintage inspirations, but works under modern day clothing. Just my take on the collection. I will be buying a lot of pieces!

  5. Vicki says:

    When you hear collection for Target, Walmart, Kmart in Lingerie and from Actress/ celebrity lines its going to be certain bands and certain cup sizes and much of those are going to be padded.

    I would buy that last pink set IF The band went to a 32 or 30 and the cup went to a D-DDD and the cup wasn’t
    wasn’t thickly padded. A light lining is ok, very light.

    That said right now at the above stores, those bands can’t be found , and if they are its A/ B cup only

  6. Lisa says:

    I totally agree; I was so excited about this range and it was so crappy and NOTHING. It’s also slightly trashy, and not in a good way – the kind of thing you imagine a trailer-trash American 50s fallen woman to wear, rather than, say, Bettie Paige. Blerg.

    But I don’t actually understand overwire bras – surely they’re completely unsupportive??

  7. Tiffany says:

    I went shopping in the first drop and the second. The first drop was ok, I did like the black and lace bra set, so I purchased it but nothing else really blew me away. The second drop was so much better, I got mu hands on teh black overwire bra, and I must say it’s particulary well made for Target. The highwaisted pants that matched were non-descript but I bought them along with the pretty suspender belt. I can see where Target has clipped her creative wings, wouldn’t be surprised if she had to fight awful hard for the overwire bra.

  8. Erin says:

    Second drop has arrived. Overwrite bra in cream, black and I think leopard print.
    Also the bustier at the top of this article.

  9. Fidget Z says:

    I think its rather simple. Her previous two lines were for companies that specialize in undergarments, its what they do… so her line was more unique to her…

    But Target is a family store that sells a little bit of everything… is it really shocking that the lingerie is pretty standard? Nope… But I bet you its way more affordable then those previous two lines… and gives her another dip into the profit pool, hopefully keeping her in the game so she can once again create another line for other companies that will do more with what she has to offer…

    I only wish that the Target here in the states carried her stuff, even if it is a bit simple… it’s still pretty… and there’d be an element of feeling sexy just for wearing something with her name attached to it…

    I am wondering though… if her line of clothes has had a broad size range?

  10. sophie says:

    i will go instore for the next drop and if the longline bras appear and some really nice things appear i will buy some pieces and put on ebay….but if nice things don’t appear i am not going to bother. this is very disappointing. dita spends copious amounts of time preparing herself, her outfits, her appearance, her grooming i expected the same amount of perfection from this lingerie line.she has raved about this collection and it is atrocious thus far.she recommends divine fifi cachnil and agent provocateur and her line is scratchy and cheap. i am shocked and to all the ladies outside australia you are not missing anything thus far, but check back after the next pieces have come into store.

  11. sophie says:

    in my local target store these von follies pieces were at the front of the store on display and i basically just walked straight past them… they just look like cheap crap. i dont even think dita von teese would wear them to be honest? i went to the underwear section of target after i briefly looked at the von follies selection and found much nicer lingerie from the cheap target brands. i know that in the department stores in USA the lingerie range is limited and very plain so maybe dita and the other people involved just didnt realize that in australia there is actually some quite nice lingerie available and to compete it has to be something very nice. these von follies pieces are soooo ordinary, i truly beleive that dita would not wear them, however there is a black lace overwire bra which looks nice, but that was nowhere to be seen.

  12. Lillefix says:

    I’m also underwhelmed by this. I don’t live in Australia so the collection isn’t available to me, but it wouldn’t be anyway, it’s such a small size range. Not enough band sizes and not enough cups. It has been advertised to be for the full bust, and it has some DD cups and some E cups in some items, but that’s not enough anymore, and it’s not what I’d call good, frankly I think that should be part of the new minumum of sizes, not the special full bust options, because it really isn’t. I am quite sure DD and E cups are really quite normal sizes, it’s just that not everybody knows it yet. Plenty of people who identifies as full bust women will not be able to wear this collection at all. It’s pretty far off my size at 28HH/J or in tight bands maybe 30H/HH UK sizes, so I’m totally not impressed. DD and E cups are old news in such collections, there are lots more options in those sizes than in bigger cups and/or less commonly sold band sizes. I whish there was a developement in size. Nice if you can fit it, but if you don’t, then lingerie for the full bust sounds like false advertisement, it’s only for some “full bust” sizes, in certain band sizes, not for every full bust woman, far from it. I’m sure the small bust women are not happy either, I don’t see any A cups, AA, or AAA.
    I agree about the visuals, it’s nothing new that way either.

  13. Bec says:

    Complete disappointment. I live in Sydney and have been eagerly waiting the arrival of Von Follies to hit our shore. Underwhelming is one word to describe this collection, cheap and boring are two more words I like to use. Nothing at all in the collection tickles my fancy. Huge let down!

  14. Mj says:

    I agree- I was excited but I see more stunning pieces at arianne. I would pay for pleasure state over this or simply buy online. I have nearly identical pieces I got from of all places- best and less for half the price. Not excited by this at all.

  15. Hnnnh says:

    Whether the entire line has been released or not, do not hold your breath for the remaining pieces. The quality, style and fit aren’t suddenly going to change mid-release.

    The overwire bra might be something to behold if delivered by the likes of What Katie Did, but from Target Australia, it’s only unwearable.

    If anyone abroad really is that desperate for the pieces, I am open to delivery, but I would advise the rest of the world to revel in their access to an industry seriously lacking in Australia, regardless of whose name is on the label. I’m within 5 metres of a Target tomorrow (12 hours from this post); reports on further findings are inevitable.

  16. spoyltone says:

    I actually think there are some lovely designs here, compared to normal Target fare. The leopard print girdle reminds me of Betsy Johnson’s diffusion line and looks pretty wearable. The red/black eyelash bra is pretty, and looks like some higher-end versions that I would never buy, simply because I wouldn’t be able to wear it under clothes very much – so buying a cheap one just for “special times” might be worth it!

  17. Bethsabée says:

    OMG It’s terrible for me because I live in France, and we can not shop this collection here…

  18. The Dame says:

    Ive seen it all before in other cheap stores :(

  19. aisling says:

    I’m honestly wondering if the timing of this release has anything to do with the Dita Muse collection being released in David Jones (Australia) this week.

    Some of those pieces, mostly the skin/dot mesh, look similar to a couple of things Target has done before. I might have a look but I’m not holding my breath. I’ve always found target bra sizing problematic. In theory they use the Australian cup sizing but I haven’t found that always to be true. I also found in the past that Target tends to run large.

  20. Laura says:

    I was really excited to see what this new range would bring and was so happy to find out that there were fuller bust options however as with most target ” designer” ranges I found that the range was limited, quality had been sacrificed and it was all in the hope of selling more items at a lower cost.

  21. Cassie says:

    I went into a larger Target store and got to see the whole range (as it is so far) and I quite liked all of it. The leopard print chemise thing feels amazing on, not super shaping but definitely smoothing and good for the curves.
    I really like the fact that all the different styles come with a choice of knickers, either a g-string, bikini or high-waisted, which I think is fantastic because not everyone likes one single kind of knicker.
    The suspender belts were a little dissapointing, being only 4 garter clips rather than 6, but perhaps a place like Target couldn’t really understand the need for more.
    Overall I’m pretty happy with it, and I feel the pricing is quite reasonable. I do look forward to the rest of the collection being released (especially that overwire bra!)

  22. Katie says:

    Just to quickly clear something up, because you posted a link to the Josie Natori line: even though they’re both big-box stores and not known for the highest quality, Target Australia has no relationship with Target US. I’ve seen a lot of confusion (which is not unexpected, same name, same logo) on this matter and Dita herself had to clear it up on her Facebook. Like Target US, however, Target Australia has had a lot of success with the Designers For Target range offering more affordable diffusion ranges. No-one who knew this range was to be sold at Target could have expected it to be on par with a collection for Fredericks of Hollywood.

    I’m waiting to pass judgement on the lingerie itself, I had to order online because I couldn’t get to a store and it hasn’t arrived yet. I will add that other items such as the overwire bra and the red and black bustier pictured above will be released later – it’s been made pretty clear in the marketing material that yesterday was only the first release of items and more will be released in the next couple of months (presumably closer to March when she will be here to promote the collection herself in line with Melbourne Fashion Week). There were actually more pieces released yesterday than I expected.

  23. Frank says:

    I know it’s to reach a wider audience, but in my mind Dita is way above what I would expect from Target.
    I was guessing the situation could be the way Ashleeta posted (more to roll out), but wouldn’t you want to start strong? Unless they want to kick things up a notch, this can’t help her name, and maybe will best be forgotten by the time her next project hits the (higher end) stores?

  24. Ligeia says:

    Im as far as you’re from australia so my hands wont touch that collection. You’re right. I’ve seen the collection and its beautiful but its nothing new or outstanding. Im sure that leopard bodysuit would suit you like a glove however hehehe.


  25. Leah Adams says:

    I admit, I largely shop at Target and Walmart for lingerie, and occasionally really luck out and find some new, with tags still on, bras or lingerie (no panties please!) at thrift stores that are from higher quality lines. I look at lingerie blogs to dream about things that I can’t afford. Dita von Teese’s lines are one of them, and I expect to be wowed by them. These Target pieces look just like their regular lines. They are nice, but honestly, they look like all their other stuff, with Dita’s name attached as an afterthought. She doesn’t even look happy to be wearing them either, like she does in the other lines. And is that her, or is it a model that looks like her?

  26. Thursday says:

    I haven’t seen the pieces in person yet, but I won’t be rushing out for it. If I had happened to wander into a Target and seen these pieces there, I would have thought, “Oh, Target have added some new styles to their lingerie range”. Not, “Wow, vintage style must-haves!”. Don’t get me wrong, there are quite a number of Target’s knickers in my drawer, as they can do some nice pieces, in a wide size range, at a very affordable price, but these are just that – nice, affordable, but not exceptional.

  27. CJ says:

    The overwire is due in the second drop and there are more styles coming.

  28. Susan says:

    It’s not so much the garments that are in question but you must realize that Target isn’t going to have a high quality line. They just won’t. It’s target for goodness sake. But the model is isn’t selling them either. I have a problem with her. She just doesn’t work with this line. Maybe the photographer wasn’t the highest quality either. I just wouldn’t expect much from a Target store. They do their best but in order to make things more affordable they have to cut costs, probably in the fabric as well. I didn’t care for the styles but I don’t care for the models either. They draw more attention than then garment. That says a lot right there. Too bad.

  29. Leila Dawn says:

    What a passel of errors! Big marketing mistake to launch in such a way as to raise disappointment in the collection. Plus, it just seems such a strange partnership, Target and Dita von Teese, if for no other reason than the expected compromise in quality that’s necessary to meet the Target price range.

  30. Miss Meadows says:

    Just as you I was very underwhelmed when I checked this out on Target’s web site. I was especially looking for that overwire bra, which wasn’t there…But considering the low prices on the different pieces, I guess this is good enough for what you pay for it. When I did a post on this collection on my blog a few months ago, I remember writing that new pieces would be added to the collection in March. I Hope that overwire bra will come out then!

  31. Ashleeta says:

    Here is what I originally wrote about this collection:
    So Im gonna talk a little bit about the Dita Von Teese “Von Follies” collection for Target. At first I was really excited to have her come out with another collection the Wonderbra one was TO DIE FOR! Unfortunately I cannot say the same about her Target collection which at the moment is only avaliable in AU. I stayed up until 5am last night 12pm AU time (the official drop date of the collection) and I was looking for the set pictured above its beautiful high waisted, overwire lace dripping with my vintage style ideals. Sadly it did not appear on the site. What did appear on the site and don’t get me wrong I LOVE Dita but I saw a bunch of lingerie that I had seen before from EVERY other lingerie company in the world no unique prints or cuts, just the same old thing…hopefully by the time they collection is released here in the US they will have realized how amazingly unique and beautiful this ONE set pictured above is and I’ll be able to own it.
    Sadly Disappointed


    So thanks to some lovely ladies from Australia they let me know that there are actually around 64 individual pieces which will be released over MARCH and APRIL as well! So if you didn’t see the piece you wanted check in the next month and apparently there are some pieces that we havent even seen yet! Awesome thank you so much ladies I cannot WAIT to get this bra pictured above! Start making deals with your AU friends ladies ;)

    Hopefully we see then rest soon!

  32. Amadea says:

    The red and blue sest with the black lace overlay are cute enough, but it’s not stand out. Places like La Senza and even Marks and Spencers over here in the UK do similar pseudo-vintage styles without the expectation you’d get from a name like Dita being involved.

    Surely also, it must be some kind of false advertising to put the overwire bra in so many teaser pictures and then never release one.

  33. Ellen Lewis says:

    Here is what you should all remember: Target wants to sell this merchandise and earn gross margin dollars. That means the components that it uses in production, the fit they must address for their actual customer profile and the styles that really produce volume sales will all veer to the utilitarian side of the spectrum, which by nature, eliminates the “Dita” full aesthetic. Once again, the grey area between creativity and $ sales prevails.

  34. Maqda says:

    I’m from Poland, so I was mentally prepared for searching for proper size, hunting down and paying lot of money for this collection (even after globally launch, things like this never comes to us). But now I’m very disappointed. They are apparently not true-to-size (according to comments on SuperKawaiiMama) and not even a bit as gorgeous as pieces from both Wonderbra lines were. Why only one high waisted pants? In fact I’m in love with only one thing – this fancy straps in red bra…
    Why Dita, why?:(

  35. Alice says:

    I had been anticipating a beautiful collection as I am a huge Dita lover and have some pieces from her Wonderbra collection which are truly beautiful. Despite being in the UK so unable to order anyway, I was also disappointed by the overall cheapness of how the collection looks. We’ve come to expect the name ‘Dita’ to be synonymous with luxury and elegance but was it just me or were these pieces a bit, everyday? I think most people would want showstoppers from Dita but there was nothing unique, nothing I haven’t come across in any other UK lingerie store for half the price. Obviously I haven’t seen the pieces in the flesh but from the pictures I would say the fabrics did not look the highest quality and the fit didn’t seem great on the girls modelling (i spotted a few straps riding up at the back and suspenders slipping). Maybe I’m not taking geography into account? I’m not fully versed on the Aussie lingerie market, but perhaps there isn’t as bigger market for dramatic and theatrical pieces over there and aussie girls want something more wearable. Or maybe it was important to preserve the innate utility of the Target brand and not make the range unappealing to the average target customer? Overall, i though I would be more upset at not being able to order over here but after having seen it i’m not that bothered. For the vintage look (If thats your thing, which it is mine) I would say stick to What Katie Did, Kiss Me Deadly and for any UK girls, M&S undies reign supreme this season with exquisite longline bra styles and fantastic quality silk pieces, basques and excellent shapewear.

  36. Malini says:

    I have been excited for quite some time about her Target range. I got to my local store at 9am when they opened, only to find that there really wasn’t much in the way of variety at all. I thought this was because it was a smaller store, so I made my way to a much larger Target to check it out. When I got there I was completely underwhelmed. The overwire bra which they have been ranting on about was nowhere to be seen and the items that were there looked trashy and cheap.
    I am extremely disappointed by the line.

  37. This new collection for Target is definitely less sexy and less retro style than her previous collections – I LOVED the pieces she designed for Wonderbra, it’s a shame these ones aren’t more like that. The leopard print babydoll is okay but it’s the sort of thing you could pick up in Ann Summers, there’s nothing really unique or vintage style about it.

  38. Hnnnh says:

    Living in Australia, I can confirm that this collection is entirely underwhelming.

    While I do appreciate Dita Von Teese’s cause, which can be in its lowest common denominator be defined as ‘unbridled individualism’, it is definitely no match for Target. Perhaps the Wonderbra and Frederick’s lines were better received by their creative departments (and the lingerie shopping public), as those companies do focus exclusively on lingerie. Even if those companies aren’t always known for their luxury, that’s the void that collaboration fills with exclusivity.

    Target in Australia is not luxury. Lingerie in Australia, aside from a few stand outs (Pleasure State, Elle McPherson) is given a very utilitarian existence. Combined with Target, the most exciting investment they can possibly make in the line is the leopard print.

    “Oh my, I feel my common sensibilities all affronted. This black lace is far too risqué!” Luxe lingerie to the (particularly Australian) public is an oxymoron.

    Corporate collaboration is not the way to appreciate style – Perhaps one day we will get to see a solo effort with the designer at the helm, rather than being the figurehead.

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