Posts in category "waist training"

In Defense of Ready-to-Wear Corsets

Victoria Dagger in a RTW “Vamp” corset by Pop Antique. Photo by Karolina Marek.

Let me start this post with two disclaimers:
1) I love corsets.
2) A good fit is absolutely key in a corset.

But I don’t think that fully custom is the only way to achieve a good fit in a corset.

Victoria Dagger in a Pop Antique “Flirt” RTW corset, which has a fit comparable to the Valentine shown below.  Victoria is 5’3″.  Photo by Andres Razo.

(Bonus disclaimer: I’m not talking about the kind of ready-to-wear corset that is sweatshop mass-produced with no shape and/or flimsy plastic bones, etc.  As far as I’m concerned, those aren’t even really corsets.)

I touched upon this a bit in a previous post, What (You Didn’t Know) to Look for in a Corset, but I’d like to go into it in more detail.  Unusual for an independent, handmade corsetiere, I actually love to specialize in a ready-to-wear fit rather than bespoke.  My line is called Pop Antique, and to me, there’s a really exciting challenge in creating a single corset pattern that fits an assortment of bodies.  It really pushes me to think about the body, what works, what doesn’t, what has the most wiggle room, etc.

Ulorin Vex in a Pop Antique RTW “Valentine” corset, paired with latex leggings and bolero.  Ulorin is 5’9″ tall.

Now, don’t get me wrong: this is not an article about how custom corsets are redundant and a waste of money, by any stretch.  The going theory is that because RTW corsets try to fit everyone, they actually fit no one, because the percentage of people with truly standard proportions are so small.

Victoria Dagger in a Dollymop for Dark Garden RTW bridal corset. Photo by Chris Gaede.

And maybe that last part is true.  Maybe no one is the ancient Greek ideal of proportion in every single limb.  But most corsets fit only from mid-hip to just above or below the bust, so it doesn’t matter as much if you have short legs or a long pelvis or long arms or broad shoulders or a short neck or a big forehead or any number of other minor differences in proportion.  And in my experience, even if you do have a proportion difference in your torso that affects corset fit, it is often something that can be addressed with one or two simple pattern changes, if it’s not corrected by a slight variation in the lacing gap.  Most commonly, the top or bottom edge will need to be raised or lowered to accommodate torso length, or there will be a circumference change to the rib or hip.

Model and client Elisa Berlin wears her 17″ Ingenue corset by Pop Antique – this shape was achieved with only two pattern changes from the ready-to-wear shape. Photo by Jon Bean Hastings.

The fact of the matter is, ready-to-wear, when designed well, is designed to fit as much of that corsetiere’s target market as possible.  Key to that train of thought are the words “target market” and “designed well.”  Just as each corsetiere has their own aesthetic in terms of color, embellishment, and fabrication, each corsetiere has a different silhouette ideal in their mind, is particularly sensitive to certain fit or comfort issues, and has a different demographic forming their local client base.  If a ready-to-wear fit isn’t right for you, it may just be that the corsetiere’s ready-to-wear line is designed for a different body type or standing posture.  It doesn’t mean their patterns are bad or that your body is shaped weirdly.  And if you are tied to working with that particular corsetmaker (we appreciate your interest and loyalty!), then that’s a great time to talk about pattern adjustments or bespoke fit.

Victoria Dagger in a custom Dark Garden “Grable” corset. Though Dark Garden typically uses flat steels throughout, this fashion show piece was made with spiral steels in deference to Victoria’s preference: having worn many ready-to-wear corsets, it didn’t take long to find out that flat steels bruise her rib cage. © Mask Photo.

You may be wondering if the bespoke corset wouldn’t be a better choice anyway – why not just go for full custom for the first time, and every time?  I want to play devil’s advocate with you for a minute (although RTW corsets are far from the devil).  By wearing corsets, we learn about corsets and our own body and how the two interact.  You learn things from wearing a fully-constructed corset for hours or days that you wouldn’t know from having your measurements taken or a mockup fitting.  You learn that your ribs are really squishy – or really not.  You learn if the compressible part of your waist is very short or long.  You learn about the shape of a back curve that puts pressure on your spine, or your favorite hip spring silhouette.  The more experienced corsetieres will know what to look for and how to balance a lot of those things out, but ultimately we are not psychic, especially if you are ordering online and doing a remote fitting and we can’t even touch you.  And that’s why I think wearing ready-to-wear corsets before you launch into the investment of a fully custom corset is not only valid, but valuable.

Model Raven Le Faye in a Pop Antique RTW size “Demoiselle” sweater corset. Photo by Andres Razo.

Ultimately, ready to wear and custom corsets both come in different grades of quality.  No matter which route you choose, do your research.  A handmade RTW corset is very different from one produced in a Chinese sweatshop, of course, but consider this scenario: some bespoke corsetieres may have a RTW line that they rarely sell and therefore haven’t fully developed or prototyped in an adequate range of styles and sizes.  When designing my ready-to-wear line, I did extensive market research into sizing, then used three fit models of the same size with very different body types to test my samples.  I’m still making tweaks here and there (and that ability is one of the great things about being a small designer and doing everything in-house).  Dark Garden built its ready-to-wear line based its exhaustive archive of custom corset patterns.  And a custom corset from a corsetiere with 5 or 10 or 20 years of experience is very different from one made by someone who is just launching their corset business after making a few corsets for his or herself and a few friends.  When you are corset shopping, that is not the time to bargain hunt.

Model Whitney McCabe backstage at a Pop Antique fashion show, in a RTW Vixen. Whitney, who has only occasionally corseted in the past, wore this ribbon corset all evening – it was so comfortable that she didn’t take it off until after our round of post-show drinks, when she had to leave her ensemble with me.

Do you own any ready-to-wear corsets, or only bespoke?  Who makes your favorite ready-to-wear fit?

Marianne

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How to Care for a Corset, Part 3: Corset Storage

Corsets: betcha can’t have just one – but how do you store them all?
Model: Victoria Dagger; Photo: Joel Aron; Corset: Dark Garden

With the winter holiday season officially over, many of us are sorting through the accumulated rubble of our various gifts received and parties thrown.  As for me, I also have been in the process of unpacking from my first move in four years, so as well as picking up a season’s worth of cocktail dresses from my dressing room floor, I have to sort and put away all my regular clothes, including my collection of corsets.  There are several different ways to store a corset; today I’ll cover four basic ways, plus a bonus decorative storage method that I’ve always secretly wanted to try.

Hmmm… wherever shall I put all these corsets??
Model: Victoria Dagger; Photo: Sam Guss; Corset: Sparklewren

1. Laced and laid flat in a drawer
This is perhaps the most simple and obvious solution.  Between wearings, tighten the laces on your corset until its gap is fully closed.  (Put one of the busk loops behind the stud side of the busk while fastening the others like normal; the tension will keep the busk from opening itself.)  Tie off the excess lacing into a bow and then pull it straight up, tucking it inside the corset at the center back.  Lay your corset flat in a drawer, stacking your collection but being careful not to place anything adjacent to a delicate fabric (such as a lace overlay) that might snag it (including the busk of another corset).  You may also fold your corsets in thirds if your drawer is the wrong proportion for them to lay flat.  Depending on the shape distribution and boning pattern, some corsets may not fold well.  Alternatively, you can place them semi-upright in a bin instead of flat in a drawer.

Placing one of the busk loops inside the corset will keep the busk fastened for storage.

Corsets laced shut, folded, and stored semi-upright in a bin at Dark Garden Unique Corsetry.

2. Rolled up and stored in a drawer or bin
With your corset unlaced, roll your corset up around itself, starting with the stud side of the busk and leaving the fashion fabric facing outwards.  When you get to the lacing gap, keep rolling but make sure you catch the ribbon loops at that point.  As with the previous method, the boning placement may affect how well your corset rolls, but the rolling shouldn’t cause any damage to the bones, even for long-term storage.
If you are concerned about your fabric getting dirty or abraded (white corsets, lace overlays, rhinestone detailing, etc.), you may wish to protect it by then wrapping it in a corset bag, pillow case, or perhaps even the leg cut from a pair of nylons.  I wouldn’t recommend storing all of your corsets wrapped if you have a lot of them, as it’ll be hard to tell them all apart if you can’t see the fabric clearly.

3. Hanging from its laces on a hanger
This is how most of my corsets are stored.  You can have your corsets laced or unlaced for this method, but I like to leave them unlaced because then it’s easier to get back into them.  Simply flop your corset over the bar on a hanger so it’s suspended by its laces.  Use a sturdy hanger as the weight of the corset can cause bowing or drooping.  I like to use tiered slack hangers, as closet space is at a high premium for me.  The boning pattern makes no difference with this method; however, protecting more fragile fabrics is less straightforward.  Though I’ve yet to try it, you could place a piece of fabric over the corset in question, like a dropcloth, perhaps pinning a couple of places to keep it from sliding right off every time you go for the adjacent corset or article of clothing.

I like to store my corsets hanging from their laces on a tiered slacks hanger.

4. Laced closed and hanging facing out
Using the busk trick from the first storage method, lace your corset fully shut and tie off the waist loops.  You can tuck the bow into the top of the corset as above, or wrap it around the neck of your hanger.
Method A:  As well as the hanger, you’ll also need some ribbon (probably about two feet should be sufficient) and two safety pins, such as the tiny gold ones that come with a lot of clothing and lingerie.  Cut your ribbon in half (burn the ends if you don’t want it to fray), then fold it in half.  Pin through both layers of ribbon (on the cut end) to the lining of your corset at the side seam to create your own hanger loops.  If your corset is too wide to hang well this way, try pinning the ribbon ends separately to front and back, like a spaghetti strap closer to the princess line.
Method B: Use a skirt hanger, protecting your fabric from the grips with padding made from scraps of fabric or wider ribbon, such as a soft cotton twill.  (Try not to use the padding pieces each time you unclip your corset!)  This method works best for corsets that are roughly the same height all the way across; less well for sweetheart and low-back styles, particularly in larger sizes.
This will create a nice boutique-like feel, particularly if you use high quality, matching hangers.

Corsets clipped to skirt hangers, with padding protecting their fabric from the clips. Dark Garden Unique Corsetry.

When storing your corsets flat (in a drawer or bin, or on a hanger), tighten the laces fully, tie off your “bunny ears,” and tuck them into the top of the corset as shown to keep them tidy and out of the way.

5. Displayed proudly on your wall
I’ve always thought a beautiful and clever way to both store and display a few corsets would be to hang them on my way, like pieces of art.  Follow the directions to hang a corset laced shut, and choose an attractive hanger (such as these padded hangers) from which to hang it.  Then, find a frame that is large enough for the corset and the hanger both.  You won’t need the matboard or the glass – check vintage and thrift stores for bargains on frames missing these components.  Tap in a nail or coat hook where you’d like the top of the hanger to be, hold up the frame for placement, then add a second nail above for the frame.
One warning: leaving your corsets hanging for too long could of course result in them getting dirty or discolored, so be careful about where they’re placed, check them regularly to see if they need cleaning, and perhaps rotate the display every so often.  This is not a long-term storage solution.

You can find some great frames without glass at thrift stores – perfect for displaying a three-dimensional piece like a corset!

How do you store your corsets?  Do you have a method not listed above?  Please share in the comments.

Marianne

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8 Corsetieres to Follow on Instagram

Freshly laced ribbon corset by Pop Antique on Instagram.

It seems that 75% of what I do with my iPhone is check Instagram. Luckily, I can combine my idle habit with research by following my corsetmaking colleagues, thereby continually staying informed and inspired. What I love about Instagram is that it emphasizes a certain spontaneity and behind-the-scenes feel, and is also a bit more intimate.  Unfortunately, a couple of my favorite corsetieres aren’t on Instagram.  Conversely, this isn’t a directory of all the corsetieres on Instagram; I’m mostly emphasizing those who consistently post their work, but not by simply re-posting professional images thereof.   For a true backstage peek at handmade corsetry, these are the corsetieres I’ve been following.

If you don’t have Instagram, you can view any user’s public feed at http://web.stagram.com/n/username.

Sheer corset in progress by UK-based Alicia Rose on Instagram.

Alicia Rose
@iamaliciarose: Freelance lingerie designer and corsetiere. UK-based, with a great eye for composition of both her insta-shots and the designs she previews on the platform. As well as these works in progress and studio snapshots, expect to see florals and English pastoral views. I only recently started following Alicia, but am really loving what I’ve seen thus far.

Corset laid flat, by Alige Corsetry in Milan.

Alige Corsetry
@Alige: Italian corsetiere. Lots and lots of studio shots, from works-in-progress to samples on live models; also makes accessories and other lingerie.

Crikey Aphrodite
@crikeyaphrodite: Corsetiere, new to Instagram, but not to corsets. There’s a definite emphasis on cat pictures, but maybe if we all go show her some appreciation she’ll show us more workshop tidbits, along with the admittedly-adorable cat.

Metallic leather corset gown by Hannah Light of Neon Duchess.

Hannah Light
@hannahlight: Neon Duchess on Facebook. A comfy mix of workroom and personal shots populate her feed. Her corset aesthetic is an interesting, quirky and curvaceous blend.

Hand detailing in progress on this runway-ready custom corset by Autumn Adamme of Dark Garden.

Autumn Adamme
@missdarkgarden: Designer/proprietress of corset legend Dark Garden. Owned by a Russian Blue (corsetieres are typically a bunch of cat ladies, if you haven’t gathered). New styles, custom ensembles for fancy events, and the occasional bit of found inspiration accumulate here. For more Dark Garden goodness and then some, you may also want to follow @tulitulip, @hollybobisuthi, @kalicodelafey, and @kristin argue.

A stunningly embellished classic red and black ensemble by Sweet Carousel Corsetry.

Elise Scarytale
@sweetcarousel: Sweet Carousel Corsetry.  Inspiration, lifestyle, personal style, and a healthy proportion of workroom snapshots with the occasional professionally shot photo thrown in.  Stylistically, Sweet Carousel works the hard/soft dichotomy pretty comfortably, executing styles with lace and bows with the same ease as those with studded leather.

Custom patterns and corsetry supplies are offered by Sew Curvy. Here, Julia Bremble carefully places lace accents on a custom patterned underbust.

Julia Bremble
@marmaladekiss: Perhaps better known as Sew Curvy Corset Kits. Corsets in progress, new materials for the web shop, and personal snapshots mingle in her feed.

Me, in a Pop Antique knit corset and layered handkerchief hem skirt ensemble at the opening of the De Young museum’s Jean Paul Gaultier exhibit.

Pop Antique
@popantique: Lastly, if you are interested in BTS shots of Pop Antique, Dollhouse Bettie, and Dark Garden laced with doses of cat belly, tea porn, and San Francisco scenery, you can find me on Instagram as (what else?) @popantique.  I’ve already warned you that I’m pretty addicted to IG, but I at least try to maintain a certain level of aesthetic standard on my shots.

The Lingerie Addict herself on Instagram, preparing for a shoot with Viva Van Story.

Stay tuned for future installments! I’ve got plenty more designers, boutique owners, and classic addicts in my feed that I’d love to share with you…  If you’re not following her yet, “The” Addict is of course @thelingerieaddict.  Who do you love to follow? Please share your favorite lingerie-related Instagrammers in the comments; I’d love to scope out some new eye candy.

Marianne

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How to Care for a Corset, Part 2: Three Reasons Why You Need to Unlace before Debusking

Elisa Berlin unlacing a Pop Antique corset, as photographed by Marianne Faulkner

Shien Lee in an Electra Designs corset, as photographed by Christopher Mc Lallen, via Electra Designs on Facebook

All corsets wearers know (or should know, anyway) that they need to loosen their corset laces before unfastening their busk, but it’s rarely explained why, beyond the basic “it’s bad for the corset.”  I mentioned this in passing in the first post of this series, How to Care for a Corset, Part 1: What to Do While Wearing Your Corset, but saved the full rationale because I think it’s important enough to merit its own post.  If you’re like me, those kind of tips stick much better if I understand the reasoning behind them.  So without further ado, here are my top three reasons to unlace first.

Victoria Dagger in a Blooddrop corset, as photographed by IGP Photo

1) The Immediate
It’s going to be a lot easier to take your corset off if the laces are loosened.  Actually, unless your corset is too big for you, it’ll be virtually impossible to unfasten all the busk studs.  If your corset has a swing hook closure or a zipper, you can still take it off, but be careful that you don’t catch your skin in the zipper.

Kali in a Dark Garden corset, as photographed by Marianne Faulkner

Victoria Dagger in a Pop Antique corset, as photographed by Samantha Guss

2) The Pragmatic
You’re going to need those laces loose next time you want to put your corset on anyway, right?  Many corset neophytes ask if, once adjusted, they can just leave the laces tied for subsequent wearings.  The lacing process may seem arduous the first time around, but just like learning to tie your shoe laces you’ll find it soon enough becomes simple and automatic.  The tightening of the laces is what gives a corset its superb shaping ability, so skimping on lacing-in is out of the question.

Victoria Dagger in a Dark Garden corset, as photographed by Thomas Landon

3) The Critical
The number one reason to loosen your laces is because you risk irreparably damaging the busk.  With each busk stud you unhook, you are putting that much more pressure on the remaining studs.  Eventually, the studs may pop off from the metal bone on which they’re anchored.
Most corsets are constructed from the center front out, which means that any damage along that seam line is the hardest to repair (if it’s even possible at all).  It’s not a case of just restoring the missing stud; the entire busk (the single most expensive hardware component) will need to be replaced, which involves reconstructing either the front panel or literally the entire corset.  So while you may still be able to wear your corset as long as you’re only missing one busk stud, you’ve created damage that is both easy to avoid and very difficult, if not impossible, to repair.

Sara Cecil in a Pop Antique corset as photographed by Jesse Alford

If you’ve been given another explanation for why unlacing is so important or have any firsthand accounts of busk damage, I’d love to hear in the comments.

Marianne

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How to Care for a Corset, Part 1: What to Do While Wearing Your Corset

Photo: Sam Guss, Corset: Dark Garden, Model: Victoria Dagger

So you want to wear a corset, and make sure you take good care of it to prolong its life.  There are a few steps you can take during and immediately after wearing your corset to minimize wear and the need for costly cleanings.

One of the most basic pieces of corset care advice is to wear your corset with another layer between it and your skin.  The reason for this is that your sweat and the natural oils in your skin rub off onto the lining.  Ultimately it’s less wear on the corset to avoid both the sweat and oils, and the frequent cleanings it’ll lead to.

A camisole like this makes a good corset liner. To wear with an overbust, tuck the straps in. Trousers are optional. Photo: Antonio Abadia, Corset: Electra Designs, Model: Victoria Dagger

How practical wearing a lining is will depend heavily on your outfit: if it’s a waist cincher or underbust, you may already be wearing it as an outerwear piece and therefore ahead of the game.  (Know that the garment underneath will get creased from the compression.)  A sweetheart corset can be worn as a top by itself.  If you’re wearing your corset as a foundation piece, the weather may not permit an additional layer between it and your skin.

Originally a “chemise” would’ve been worn next to the skin under the corset; today, you can wear a simple camisole or tshirt.  Your corsetiere may even sell tube tops fitted to be worn under the corset with no straps or sleeves to interfere with your styling choices.  The fabric should be lightweight, breathable, and easy to wash: a  t-shirt jersey type fabric (cotton or a cotton-spandex blend) is a safe bet.  A rayon-type fabric (rayon, modal, bamboo rayon, etc) would also be very comfortable, though more difficult to care for.

To keep laces secure and out of the way, tuck the ends into the bottom of your corset. Photo: Joel Aron, Corset: Dark Garden, Model: Kristin.

One mistake many corset wearers make is wearing their laces tied around their waist.  This actually abrades the fabric of the corset.  If you don’t like to leave your laces danging, separate the “bunny ears” bow at the waist in two and tuck the lace ends under the bottom of your corset.  On a related note, when it’s time to take your corset off, always remember to loosen the laces before unfastening the busk.

Always remember to loosen your laces before unfastening the busk. Photo: Marianne Faulkner, Corset: Pop Antique, Model: Elisa Berlin.

If you find yourself needing to replace the lacing itself, polyester ribbon can be purchased from any fabric or craft store.  Even if your corset wasn’t originally laced with ribbon, the polyester actually makes for very strong lacing.  Measure how long the original laces were, and adjust if you felt they were too long or too short.  It’s always easier to cut them shorter, though, so it’s safer to err on the side of “too long,” otherwise it may become difficult to put your corset on.  Buy ribbon that is at least 1/4” wide; 5/8” or wider ribbon creates a more sumptuous look but also adds considerable bulk.

Drape your corset over the back of a chair to air out after wearings.

After you take your corset off, let it air out, breathe, and relax.  Drape it over a hanger or the back of a chair.  The fibers will relax back into shape, and, well, the fresh air will do it good, scent-wise.  If you’re waist training or participating in an event that calls for several consecutive days of  corset wearing, try to alternate corsets.  Like your bras or shoes, your corset will break down noticeably faster if you don’t give it any time off.  The fabric, boning, and laces are all under a considerable amount of physical stress while you’re wearing it, after all.  You can also delicately wipe down the lining of your corset with a damp cloth after you take it off, to help gently remove any oils or sweat that are on the surface.

Photo: Chris Gaede, Corset & Ensemble: Dark Garden, Model: Victoria Dagger

Stay tuned for future installments on storing and cleaning your corsets!  Let me know in the comments if you have other corset maintenance questions or ideas you’d like to see addressed in future posts.

Marianne

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