NYC Brand Tour: Hanky Panky, Natori, Wacoal Europe, Le Mystere & Panache
As you may have guessed, lingerie market is an incredibly busy time of year. Between attending Curve (the major lingerie tradeshow), visiting ateliers, and going to all the meetups (such as the one TLA hosted last season for POC and LGBTQIA lingerie professionals), the week is packed solid.
Every year, there are brands I miss out on because there's just too much to see at once, but this year I happened to skip almost all of the major brands. I'm talking names like Natori, Wacoal Europe (formerly Eveden Group), Panache, Hanky Panky, and Le Mystere. Basically, the brands you're most likely to see in your local mall or department store.
While these names aren't known for being the most editorial or directional, it is a bit hard to discuss what's next in the lingerie industry without sharing what you'll actually be able to buy. So I came back to Manhattan roughly a month or so after February market to have a few casual meetings with the heavy hitters of intimate apparel.
Unlike Curve, where the pace is frenetic and the race is on to get the most orders before the end of market, individual, post-market appointments allow for a more leisurely pace. Not only is there an opportunity to examine the lingerie in detail (perfect for someone like me who loves lace and embroidery), there's also time to talk about what's coming up for the brand and what trends and patterns they're noticing in the larger world of intimate apparel (because working for a brand that produces millions of units is very different than running a label that produces dozens).
While I didn't photograph everything I saw, key highlights from this trip for me were the new Natori 'Feathers' stockings, Hanky Panky's beautiful 'Ziegfeld Follies'-inspired story, Le Mystere's lacy 'Sophia' bodysuit, Panache's highly-engineered 5-part bra cup (supporting up to a J cup!), and Elomi's brilliantly bold embroidery.
When covering market, there's always a tension between featuring what's new and exciting and featuring what you'll be able to find in a store. I hope this follow-up piece helps to give you a more complete picture of what's next in the world of lingerie.
Do you have a favorite set from one of the big brands for next season? If so, what is it?
Absolutely stunning bras! My favorite is definitely the Josie Natori red floral embroidered bra and panty set. So cute!!
Wasn’t til I was 55 yrs old that I found a bra that actually fit me, it was a Fantasie bra, it lifted and seperated and the center actually sits on the breast bone. They are pretty and affordable and every time I go to England I buy, as I have not found anything in Canada or where I live (Iceland) that fits the same. 32G
I’m really loving that navyish Huit 8 set!
About halfway through the post I thought “well, there’s nothing new in lingerie”, but luckily, right after were Hanky Panky and Panache. Faith in lingerie restored! And that black striped design? Not new at all (stockings were made in a similar styling 10 years ago, and they were in budget range), not super complicated at all, but it’s so elegant and seductive at the same time.