Posts by Karolina

Reviews: Freya Deco and Poison lingerie

Disclaimer: The lingerie in this review was provided by Freya and Poison. All opinions are my own.

This month I’m reviewing bras with a big focus on their fit, from Freya and Poison lingerie.

Freya

Freya is a UK brand that produces fun and fashionable lingerie with a focus on exceptional fit.  Their size range is extremely diverse, ranging from a B to a K cup.  The ‘Deco’ range is a relatively new addition and focuses on seamless molded cup bras, currently available on the Freya website in ‘nude’ and black. 

The Deco half cup bra and brief

I was sent the black ‘Deco’ molded half cup bra in a 30D and the ‘Deco’ short.  The bra has seam free cups and also features subtle internal contouring for a slight push-up effect.  Both garments use the same soft stretch fabric. The bra comes in sizes 28-30 D-F and 32-38 B-F. The short comes in sizes XS-XL.

I’ve never been the best of friends with molded cup bras – I’ve always found their shape unflattering and badly fitting, often finding the cups ‘gaping’ at the neck edge because my breasts weren’t full enough to fit them. So when Freya offered me the chance to review the new Deco bra I was intrigued – I’d had several good experiences with Freya bras in the past (with them being one of the few commercially available brands that manufactured my size) and wondered whether their take on the molded cup bra could be any different.

I’m pleased to report that the fit of the Deco bra is excellent – the band is comfortable tight, the wires sit flat against my chest and the cups fully encase my breasts.  The push-up effect is pleasantly subtle, giving an extra bit of ‘oomph’ without being too obvious and an attractively rounded shape. My only problem is that at certain times of the month my breasts don’t fill out the cups fully, leaving a small gap at the neck edge.  However, this is barely noticeable under most clothes and still keeps a relatively seamless appearance.

The shorts are also incredibly comfortable, with very soft fabric and good coverage.  Both the bra and shorts held up very well to multiple hand washes and still look as new.  I’m happy to say that they’ve both found their way into my everyday lingerie rotation, a rare occurrence indeed!

The black molded half cup bra is available here for £30 and the shorts here for £10. You can visit the Freya Deco365 website here for more information about fit and to find out more about the collection.

Poison

‘Reveler les secrets’ set

Poison are a San Francisco based lingerie brand whose ‘Poise’ bras are incredibly different to anything else I’ve seen on the market; the unusual construction techniques claim to give posture-enhancement, give a push-up effect without the padding and to contour and smooth away back fat.

‘Profond’ set

Poison sent me the ‘Révéler les secrets’ bra in a 32C (featuring a black and gold stretch lace) and the ‘Profond’ bra in a 32D (featuring a navy floral embroidery) as well as a set of black bra inserts and a bra extender.  As a reference, I normally wear a 30D in bras but was informed that as the ‘Poise’ bras have a snug fit the 32 band should still fit. ‘Reveler les secrets’ is available in sizes 30B-38E and retails at $139 and ‘Profond’ is available in sizes 30B-40F and retails at $135.

Front views of the ‘Profond’ and ‘Reveler les secrets’ bras

My first impressions of the bras was that they are actually very well made – the construction is impressively strong and durable.  Each of the bras features a very wide underband elastic, double boning on the side seams and double layers of powernet in the wings.  The cups feature a ‘sling’ where additional bra inserts and padding can be worn.  Whilst the cups are not padded in the traditional sense, the cups are cotton lined with a fairly substantial weight of fabric.  Both bras held up fairly well to hand washing, though I found that the lace on the ‘Reveler les secrets’ bra began losing elastic threads after a couple of washes.  The bra inserts are also very intriguing – they smell very strongly of rose (though pleasantly so!) and contain peculiar ‘massaging’ beads. They seem a little harsh when you feel the inserts by themselves but when worn in the bra itself they are unnoticeable.

Back views of the ‘Profond’ and ‘Reveler les secrets’ bras

Initially, the fit of the ‘Poise’ bras confused me. The wide underband is actually very comfortable and supportive, as well as being flattering on the back.  It is, however, quite tight – which was especially surprising as I usually wear a 30 underband anyway. Although I could wear it comfortably it did make me wonder how a 32 underband would cope with their size.  Additionally I found that the removable straps provided with the bras are surprisingly short – at 5’7” in height, I found myself wearing them at nearly their full extension.

Side view of the ‘Reveler les secrets’ bra where fit problems are most visible

The cups are incredibly shallow in volume, which I am assuming is responsible for the ‘push-up’ effect without padding – by keeping the cup volume small, the bra forces your breast tissue up into cleavage.   However, I feel this is best suited for people with a shallower breast shape as I found myself getting ‘double boob’ in both cup sizes – in the 32C this was actually inside the cup, which made me suspect that there was some fault in construction.  You can see the extent of this in the photo above – I felt it was too extreme to actually wear the bra during the day as the silhouette was so strange and unflattering. The 32D was a better fit but the neck edge was still slightly tight – I found myself having to readjust my bra throughout the day as my breasts kept essentially falling out of the cups.

Side view of Profond; whilst the fit was slightly better there were still issues

Nevertheless, I don’t feel that this bra style worked particularly well for me – I can see how on different breast shapes the bra can provide a push up effect, though this is at the expense of sacrificing breast shape as it gives the effect of ‘flattening’ the breast from a side view.

Overall I was disappointed by the ‘Poise’ bras – whilst they do achieve what they claim, I feel like their sizing is not consistent and comes up very small, nor do I feel the push up effect is particularly flattering (though this could well be due to my more ‘European’ views towards bra fit and shape!). It’s a shame really – the embroidery on the ‘Profond’ bra is very cute indeed and I’d like to be able to wear it on a regular basis!

The ‘Reveler les secrets’ bra can be purchased here and  ‘Profond’ here.

Readers: Have you tried either of these brands? What were your fit experiences?

Karolina

Karolina

Student at De Montfort University's world-renowned Contour Fashion course. Makes many knickers in her spare time.

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Salon International de la Lingerie: Favourites for Autumn/Winter 2013

Image by Karolina Laskowska

Way back inn mid-January I was lucky enough to visit the Salon International de la Lingerie trade show in Paris. Here’s my  picks from the independent and luxury brands – we have some truly gorgeous lingerie to look forward to next season!

All images by Karolina Laskowska unless otherwise credited

Dirty Pretty Things

I love Dirty Pretty Things’ use of unusual prints and this season is no different – quirky fairytale inspirations see unicorn, skull and butterfly motifs together in a print design that is both delightfully feminine and directionally subversive.  I also love how they’ve paired leopard print chiffon with lace – it gives the print a much softer and delicate feel to it and has definitely left me lusting after one those sets!

Elise Aucouturier

Elise Aucouturier is a brand that I had not encountered before but I’ve been very much taken with their unique design style and unusual use of lace and embroidery – the sheer shorts and lace bandeau bra shown below were my particular favourites!

Top image: provided by Elise Aucouturier

Fred & Ginger

Fred & Ginger’s latest collection is based around a mix of luscious silks.  Particular highlights including ‘Romance’ with its opulent burgundy velvet trim and ‘Tropical Paradise’ – the bright yellows, pinks and blues are almost good enough to eat!

Top image: provided by Fred & Ginger

Juju Lingerie

Juju Lingerie are a new brand and I’m loving their use of bright green and pink alongside the cute and flirty embroidery details and prints.  I’m very intrigued to see how this brand will develop!

Top image: provided by Juju Lingerie

Kiss Me Deadly

Kiss Me Deadly are a tried and tested favourite of mine. Next season will see new prints in girdles, a range of gorgeous new corsets and (what I’m personally most excited about) some incredibly swishy chiffon tap pants. I’ve also heard rumours of an overwire bra which I absolutely cannot WAIT to get my hands on…

Middle and bottom images provided by Kiss Me Deadly

Lost In Wonderland

Lost In Wonderland are a Berlin based brand that creates luxurious yet ethical, Vegan lingerie. I’m fallen head over heels in love with the new collection; the combination of stunningly beautiful chantilly laces (in my favourite colourway, black and gold), unusual lace placement and silhouette mean that this lingerie to die for. I’ve fallen dangerously in love with the first set (shown below)!
Top image provided by Lost in Wonderland

Maud & Marjorie

Maud & Marjorie are a French brand that use lace to particularly stunning effect! I adore this unusual colour pairing of maroon with bright orange, but my personal favourite is the faux-leather soft bra – the stitch detail alongside the delicate lace is exquisite!

Playful Promises

Next season Playful Promises have a range of delicious new prints and styles, from a brand new body shape to a gorgeous set that incorporates gold metal chains as embellishment.  My personal favourite is the reinvention of the signature ‘Etti’ set in a stunning rose and peacock print!

Top image provided by Playful Promises

Yes Master

Yes Master are renowned for their unusual prints and silhouettes and this season is no exception – just checkout the bra top and cycling shorts shown below!  A particular highlight of this collection is the use of leopard-printed sequins. This is definitely lingerie for a daring fashionista!

Centre image provided by Yes Master

Karolina

Karolina

Student at De Montfort University's world-renowned Contour Fashion course. Makes many knickers in her spare time.

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Luxury Lingerie Reviews: FYI by Dani Read, Lascivious & Jenny Packham

Who can resist the January sales? I most certainly can’t.  Here’s just a few of the bargains I snapped up from last season and my thoughts on them!

All images by Karolina Laskowska unless otherwise credited

FYI by Dani Read ‘Despote’ bra and briefs

The ‘Despote’ set, image by FYI by Dani Read

FYI by Dani Read is one of the brands that I’ve been admiring from afar for a while now – after all, leather and spikes are right up my street when it comes to design aesthetics! Unfortunately, I faced the usual issue of student budgeting and could only dream of owning a set.

Imagine my glee then when I spied the ‘Despote’ set at the Coco de Mer sale for a fraction of its original price… Filk chiffon paired with patent leather caging and black spikes? Yes please! I snapped it up and waited impatiently for my order to arrive. I ordered a 32C bra and Medium brief, the closest sizes to what I usually wear.  The bra retailed at $156 and the brief at $108. Whilst the bra is sold out, the brief is available here.

Unfortunately, I was left feeling a little deflated by the garments that arrived. Whilst the set still looks a damn sight cooler than most of the lingerie out on the market, I just didn’t feel the quality or fit were quite up to scratch.  The leather cage structure doesn’t offer much adjustment and seems to follow a very straight shape, leave an unattractive bulge in the back of the garment. Considering the set as boudoir pieces, I’m able to forgive the less than perfect fit on the bust – after all, with those spiked shoulder straps I don’t think I’ll be fitting any t-shirts over this bra any time soon!

The leather strapping on the briefs has a an elasticated panel and adjustable gold sliders, whilst the strap placement is particularly flattering for those of us with larger hips, sitting on top of them instead of cutting into them. The cut of the briefs at the back is a little off though – I couldn’t get the material to sit flat and so had to make do with it bunching together!

Overall I was a little disappointed by the set, though I suppose my issues are always a danger when ordering over the internet without actually seeing the product in person.  Nevertheless, it’s still a very striking lingerie set, and most certainly incredibly different to most of other luxury brands on the market – for all its faults I’m sure it will still be making many an appearance in the bedroom!

Lascivious Lila bra and Isla briefs

The ‘Isla’ set, image by Lascivious

Lascivious‘ classic Lila bra has been a part of my collection for quite some time now – and I’ve been looking out for matching briefs ever since! The Isla briefs were another lucky steal at the Coco De Mer sale and go almost perfectly with the Lila bra. I purchased a 32C Lila bra and M Isla briefs.

The Lila bra is an open cup with sheer gathered mesh detail above the bust. The Isla briefs are made of powernet, with similar gathered mesh details on the hip panels, with patent eyelet tape and elastic details. There’s silver hooks and eyes going down the centre back of the briefs and removable suspender straps. The bra retails for £86 here and the briefs for £112 here.

For a cupless bra, the fit is very good – the wire encases the breast well whilst the underband is comfortably tight and the mesh detailing is flattering.  Obviously for a bra of this style support isn’t an issue!

Overall the briefs are a good fit, with the mesh detail on the hip sitting flatteringly high. The high-waist also means that the suspenders actually keep your stockings up, making this the very first pair of suspender knickers that do what they’re supposed to!

My only issue with these briefs is the hook and eye fastening at the back. There’s no delicate way to put this, but itreally hurts. The hooks are surprisingly sharp and there isn’t any layer between them and your skin, so wearing these for more than a few minutes because incredibly uncomfortable. I’m a little heartbroken about this – these are truly gorgeous knickers and I’d been hoping to wear them on an everyday basis but it’s just not feasible!  Luckily the set’s gorgeous enough to qualify as boudoir-only – where, let’s be honest, comfort isn’t completely necessary.

Edit (06/03/13) – I’ve since been informed that the Isla knickers that I purchased had a manufacturing fault – the hooks that had been causing the discomfort had been sewn in the wrong way round – they should have been facing away from the body.

Jenny Packham silk & lace robe

Lace trim robe by Jenny Packham, image by Harrods

Jenny Packham is one of those designers whose lingerie I’ve often admired from a distance – whilst many of her designs are beautiful, the price tags can make the eyes water somewhat.  I was very lucky in acquiring this robe – as a current season piece it still hasn’t reached the sale, so it was a chance ebay find that led it into my posession. It’s a simple enough piece, made of silk satin with a lace trim along the neckline and sleeves.

The robe that I managed to get is a size Large (I would ordinarily opt for a Medium), however as a piece of loose-fitting loungewear I don’t feel it causes any major issues. The bra retails for £739 and can be purchased here.

Funnily enough, I don’t feel that there’s much I can really say about this robe. Overall, it’s very pretty – there’s a lovely lace trim along the sleeves and neckline. The kimono style sleeves and full skirt are fun to swoosh around in and the tie waist is flattering But that’s about all I can say about the garment. It’s pretty, but it’s not special. It’s not made by artisans and finished imbeccably – the lace appliqué is machined on and it is made in China (this isn’t a knock at China – I’d just expect a garment at this price point to have more expensive labour costs).

As with most premium and luxury lingerie, you are paying for the name rather than the lingerie itself. There’s nothing wrong with the robe, but I just can’t see how it justfies the £739 price tag.  For that sort of money I would personally want something unusual and impeccably crafted – though that’s just not the way that the industry works.

Readers – did you manage to catch any bargains in the sales? Have you tried any of the designers above?

Karolina

Karolina

Student at De Montfort University's world-renowned Contour Fashion course. Makes many knickers in her spare time.

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The Lingerie Collective: Highlights for Autumn/Winter 2013

In early January I visited The Lingerie Collective trade show, home to some of the world’s most exciting luxury brands.  Here are my favourite exhibitors and what we have to look forward to in Autumn/Winter 2013!

All images by Karolina Laskowska unless credited otherwise.

Beautiful Bottoms:

Beautiful Bottoms are renowned for their fashion-forward prints and affordable silks. This season is no exception, with highlights including this silk georgette rose print slip and some gorgeous printed silk satin pyjamas.

Top image: Provided by Beautiful Bottoms

Felice Art Couture:

Felice Art Couture are a new luxury loungewear brand with some of the most intricate embellishments that I’ve ever seen in the lingerie world.  Delicate Chantilly laces and stunning beadwork make these garments seem like works of art than something to lounge in!

Fraulein Kink:

Fraulein Kink’s new collection has some of my favourite bedroom accessories yet. This season sees a Wild West influence with pieces such as crystal-tipped lassos and (my personal favourite), gold spikey spurs.  Other standout pieces include the fringe, feather and spike eyemask shown below.  As usual, Fraulein Kink’s designs are a perfect lingerie accompinament.

Top image: Left: A nineteen13 Production, right: Camilla Camalgia

Kriss Soonik:

Kriss Soonik’s loungerie is as fashion-forward and unusual as ever, with old favourites such as the suspender top being reinvented in a long-sleeved velour version. My personal favourite is the lace and tulle babydoll, a perfect match of sporty and unusual shapes with flirty feminine details.

Marika Vera:

Marika Vera is one of my all-time favourite lingerie designers and the new collection ‘Welcome to the Rabbit Hole’ is no disappointment. Exquisite silk satins and chiffons are layered in unusual and flattering silhouettes with details such as delicate strapping, collars and loose ruffles.  The garments are also multi-functional – equally beautiful in the boudoir as when mixed into outerwear.

Top and bottom image: Provided by Marika Vera

Shell Belle Couture:

The new collection by Shell Belle incorporates stunning laces with delicate sheer meshes and silks.  Romantic classics such as the Seduce Me gown sit alongside new flirtier pieces such as camisole sets and animal prints.  The detailing on these pieces is exquisite, from the positioning of lace to delicate straps and the signature stitched scallop edges.

Something Wicked:

Something Wicked’s lingerie designs are the perfect blend of fashion-foward naughtiness. Irresistably soft leathers are paired with delicate chantilly laces and gold plated components. The newest collection features a softer approach to the luxury S&M vibe, with flirty chiffons in shades of berry and lilac being given bondage inspired strap details.

Top and bottom images: Provided by Something Wicked

Underprotection:

Underprotection are a Danish brand that creates ethical lingerie and loungewear, using only sustainable fabrics such as bamboo cotton.  The designs themselves are gorgeous – my personal favourites are the scallop-panel bra and knicker set. The gorgeous colours and stitching details have put the set majorly high on my lust list!

Readers: what do you think of my picks from the show? Had you encountered any of these designers before?

Karolina

Karolina

Student at De Montfort University's world-renowned Contour Fashion course. Makes many knickers in her spare time.

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Paris Lingerie Adventures – Fifi Chachnil and Cadolle Boutique Reviews

Inside Fifi Chachnil on Rue St Honoré

Mid-January saw me travelling to Paris for the Salon de la Lingerie trade show.  Although I was only there for the weekend, I simply had to make the time to see some of the great Parisian lingerie sights. My last day in the city saw me making a mad dash from shop to shop (suitcase in tow!), trying to find the perfect souvenir.

The stunning interior of Galeries Lafayette

My first destination was the Galeries Lafayette, a wonderful department store with beautiful architecture. Whilst offering a great selection of brands (Chantal Thomass, Aubade, Eres, Huit, Princesse Tam Tam, Implicite and Lejaby to name a few) I left the shop a little disheartened. There were some fantastic sales bargains, there just wasn’t anything special enough or that fit well enough.  I was also a little disappointed to discover how ambivalent the staff was – in the fitting rooms I literally had to stick my head out of the booth and shout despite there being call buttons inside! Not exactly the most glamorous experience when you’re trying not to let anyone see you in your knickers.

Inside the Fifi Chachnil boutique

Nevertheless, my quest for lingerie went on. I headed onwards to the Rue St Honoré to visit the fabulous Fifi Chachnil boutique. As soon as I walked through the plate glass doors, I was in a girly paradise.  The plush décor, with its soft lighting and sumptuous furnishings gave the boutique more of a boudoir feel than simply a shop.

And then there’s the lingerie – each piece is a beautifully girly piece of art. Exquisite colour combinations, fabrics and trimmings on each garment made me feel like I’d landed in heaven.  The sales assistant was also perfectly lovely and incredibly helpful – as soon as she’d finished with another customer, she came over to welcome me to the shop and explained the layout, pointing out the sale rail tucked away discreetly at the back of the shop. I must admit that this was a feature that was particularly refreshing – there were no brash signs or stickers anywhere to interrupt the beautiful décor.

Outerwear in the Fifi Chachnil boutique

Soon enough, I was making my way to the changing room with an armful of pretty underthings to try on. My initial observation was that the sizing comes up incredibly small – my usual size Medium came up far too tight, with the knicker elastic actually cutting into my legs.  This meant I had to try a size Large – the largest size they stocked, which was certainly a novel experience for me.

I had a similar problem with the bras.  I am usually a 30D, yet the 32C I tried (which should have technically been too large for me) came up so small that I was getting the dreaded ‘double boob’ and the CF wasn’t anywhere near to sitting flat. I tried a size up and whilst my breasts could fit a little better in the cups, the underwires still wouldn’t sit flat in a single one of the styles that I tried on.  Although I often put fashion above fit when it comes to lingerie, there was simply no way that I could justify spending so much money on garments that wouldn’t fit.

My new Fifi Chachnil slip

By this stage in time, I was beginning to feel more than a little sorry for the sales assistant. She had tirelessly been bringing me new sizes and styles only for me to reject everything. But then I was brought one of the slips from the sale – a delightful concoction of delicate Chantilly leavers lace and sheer mesh. As soon as I tried it on I was in love – and to my great delight it was a perfect fit! The flattering vintage shape and delightful details (from the sumptuous satin bows to the contrast stitching) made it a must-have.

Beautiful packaging

Even after having paid I was still delighted by the amount of detail that goes into Fifi Chachnil’s designs and branding – my purchase had been beautifully wrapped  in a gorgeous branded box with tissue paper and a satin bow.  These little details certainly don’t go unmissed and made the entire experience so much more luxurious!

However, my trip to Cadolle was a massive contrast. Cadolle is a heritage brand renowned for its corsets (they claim that their founder Hemione Cadolle created the first bra).  The boutique was located on the equally prestigious Rue Cambon, just down the road from Chanel.  As it was the Sales season, it was understandable to see the shop in slight chaos.  Trays strewn with bras and knickers were laid out on one side of the shop whilst bins of corsets stood on the other.  It was a little overwhelming to see so many styles thrown together.  I briefly picked through each of the bins but nothing particularly caught me eye – styles seemed a little dated and there wasn’t anything that stood out as exceptional design.  The corset silhouettes didn’t come across as anything special , which was disappointing considering that Cadolle are renowned for their corsets.

My new Cadolle knickers – unfortunately one of the few designs in the shop that I actually liked!

The service was also a little disappointing – a lady came out from the back of the shop only to say that there was a sale on and later to take payment. I ended up picking out a cute pair of chiffon knickers, feeling that I had to leave with something.  Overall I was a little disappointed – with the brands history and pricepoint, I genuinely expected something a little more special from the boutique.

Nevertheless, I left Paris very pleased with my lingerie purchases, especially considering that I only had an afternoon to shop! I’m sure that the city has plenty more lingerie adventures to offer and I can’t wait to go back to explore.

 Readers – have you ever visited these shops? What are your favourite Parisian lingerie haunts?

Karolina

Karolina

Student at De Montfort University's world-renowned Contour Fashion course. Makes many knickers in her spare time.

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Lingerie school: the corset and basque project

Design by Karolina Laskowska: backstage at the catwalk show

As usual, the end of term at lingerie school (ak.a. the Contour Fashion course at De Montfort University) saw every student in a state of panic – deadlines were starting to loom from all angles and stress was mounting!  Our final assignment was the corset & basque project – a rather self-explanatory project that required us to design, pattern cut and sew a corset and basque, with an extra bit of pressure – our class also had to organise and present a fashion show with our final designs! As unfortunate as it was that you all missed the catwalk, I thought I’d make up for it as best as I could by sharing some of my classmates’ and my own designs and explaining our inspirations behind them. Enjoy!

Karolina Laskowska

On the catwalk, photo by Andy Espin

Sketchbook work

Experimental photography

Idea sketches

Textile development – appliqué and flossing

Illustrations of final designs

Using the colour black is my comfort zone when it comes to design, so I really wanted to push myself and embrace colours in this project. I began by looking at flowers; orchids with their tropical hues, the process of decay in cut flowers and finally the surreal colours within Jiang Zhi’s photographic series ‘Love Letters’, where beautiful flower arrangements are doused in methylated spirits and set alight, surrounding them in an intensely beautiful blue flame.  I was also greatly influenced by my Summer internship with Sparklewren corsetry – I’m still in awe of Jenni’s beautiful use of lace appliqué and had been dying to use the technique on some of my own work. My final designs ended up far more colourful than I could have ever anticipated – and I’m very pleased to say I’m incredibly happy with the final garments and how they looked on the catwalk!

Charlotte Spence

Final corset on the catwalk

Sketchbook and textile development

Sketchbook development

Sketchbook development

Final design illustrations

Corset details

Charlotte Spence’s designs were originally inspired by Summer Lupins, pastel shades and the blending of colours.  The main fabric for her corset was a hand dyed brocade that incorporated hand dyed pleats. She wanted to use ribboning as an embellishment, which led to her studying hand carved candles and opening the pleats into organic shapes to create interesting lines on her corset.  The corset’s shape originated from a 1885 sports corset pattern, with the eyelets supposedly ‘aerating’ the body.

Emily Roberts

Final corset on the catwalk

Final basque on the catwalk

Initial inspiration

Sketchbook development

Sketchbook development

Emily was inspired by a trip to Barcelona and its amazing architecture, particularly Gaudi’s work and traditional Spanish buildings.  She focused on metalwork and recreated the aesthetic by using lace with embellishment.

Samantha Thorburn

Final garment on the catwalk

Sketchbook development

Design development

Design development

Final garment details

Samantha’s designs were inspired by the characters Odette and Odile from Swan Lake, after seeing the Birmingham Royal Ballet perform the ballet. She also went to see the collection of historical ballet costumes at the Royal Opera house and was particularly taken with the embroidered details on the costumes, as well as the stories and personalities of the characters.  Her catwalk basque represented the character of Odette.

Akaibi Vine

Final garments backstage

Catwalk back views

Sketchbook development

Textile development

Design development

Final designs

Final garment details

Akaibi’s initial inspiration came from a visit to photographer Tim Walker’s ‘Storyteller’ exhibition and the the Disney inspired Christmas window displays at British department store Harrods. She wanted to create a modern twist on fairytales – not just the characters and stories but the backdrops, costumes and atmosphere created when modern artists turn their hand to these classic tales. She explored the idea of using a whitework (a type of embroidery), being more inspired by textures and finishes than colours or prints. For her final garments she laminated various fabrics and worked onto them with beading and ribbon work. The longline basque and corset worn with a skirt are both nods to the gowns of the Disney princesses with a modern finish.

As manic and crazy as the catwalk day, we just about managed to all survive! We all managed to pull together to create a fantastic show that somehow made all of the tears and stress worth it. I’m incredibly proud of what our class managed to achieve and it’s set a very high standard for the rest of the year’s work!

Readers: What do you think of our final designs? Have you ever had your own catwalk experiences?

Karolina

Karolina

Student at De Montfort University's world-renowned Contour Fashion course. Makes many knickers in her spare time.

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Lingerie School, Year 2: Jellyfish Lingerie!

It’s my second year of lingerie studies and my first term is soon coming to a close… Along with a rush of deadlines!  Consequently, the past few days have been a flurry of lingerie activity in order to get my first design project ready to hand in.  Even though it’s still missing the finishing touches, I thought you’d all like to see how my first lingerie project of the year has turned out.

Initial sketchbook work: photography and exploring shapes and colours

Our project brief gave us relatively free rein – requiring a bra, knicker and suspender belt with relevant technical accompaniments.  I chose the starting point of jellyfish and sea life, having always been fascinated by the shapes and colours – flowing, light and delicate.  There are so many ways that these qualities can be transferred to lingerie.

Photographs of ink in water

Print ideas – the centre design ended up being used in my final garments

As well as exploring these qualities through drawing, I had a go at photographing some ink in water to try and capture the amazing shapes and colours.  I loved some of the photos so much that I even had a go at designing some repeat prints with them.

Looking at garment details. L-R – La Perla, La Fille d’O, Fleur of England

I began to look the lingerie world for inspiration.  I was feeling particularly inspired by designs that mixed sheer and opaque fabrics.  I also noticed that quite a few of my favourite designs utilised straight lines – a technique that’s particularly difficult to get right when pattern cutting lingerie, especially in a manner that looks good on the human body.  La Perla’s AW12/13 collection has used these particularly effectively.  I also love the crispness and use of panelling in La Fille Do’s designs and the use of graphic black with sheer tulle by Fleur of England.

Design ideas and scribbles

I began to have a go at sketching my own designs. Unfortunately, drawing is not my strong point – my design ideas are nearly all scribbles that probably don’t make sense to anyone but me!  Nevertheless I had a very strong vision of what I wanted for my final designs. I wanted immaculate attention to detail and perfect finishing – minute and perfectly sewn pin stitches on each seam, purely elegant garments.  I also began experimenting with creating partial bras and cups to get a clearer vision of my designs.

Final fabrics – silk satin, silk habotai, silk chiffon and stretch mesh.

Illustration of my final designs

Everything came together in my head when I finally went fabric shopping.  I found the perfect silk chiffon – ombre reds, purples and blues that exactly echoed my sketchbook starting points. I knew exactly what I wanted my garments to be.

Illustration board of my ‘collection’ – luckily I only have to make one set!

In the final week before the deadline I’ve finalised my designs and am still in the process of actually finishing my garments; unfortunately I don’t have any of the fantastic industrial sewing machines in my own house and have to wait for studio time to use them! Nevertheless, you can get an idea of what my final designs will be, even if they are just pinned together.

Garments in progress: pinned together bra (hence still looking lumpy and shapeless!) and my final skirted suspender belt

So in the next few days I will be panicking about finishing technical packs and drawings (incredibly boring but a necessity for any garment to go into production!), market research and photoshoots.  You will just have to watch this space for the final outcome!

Readers: Do you think I’ve been successful in following my initial ideas through to literal garments?   What are your favourite parts of the project?

Karolina

Karolina

Student at De Montfort University's world-renowned Contour Fashion course. Makes many knickers in her spare time.

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