Marie Yat: Deconstructed Androgynous Lingerie
It’s rare when a lingerie brand makes a debut that is so distinctive, so unexpected, that you just know they’re going to be big. Marie Yat is an exciting new label that blends the line between lingerie and unisex underwear, creating androgynous pieces that are sleek and sophisticated. Designs are deconstructed to promote a sense of individuality, with perfectly imperfect details such as ripped bindings, graphic cutaways, and asymmetrical piecework. The result is a collection that has fantastic crossover appeal.
Marie Yat’s SS2016 collection is crafted in cotton and silk jersey on circular knitting machines, creating seamless pieces that mold to the body like second skins. Soft, breathable, and comfortable, the entire collection is designed with ease of wear in mind. Ribbed textures also play with opacity and sheen, depending on the garment, in a really interesting way. The salmon pink Luii silk chemise, for example, lets every curve of the body show through, while the Kiuu brief definitely has a tighty-whities look.
Designer Yat Wei Yeung Maria explores how neglected details add allure and interest. The deconstructed quality of the pieces makes for really dynamic silhouettes. The Gtang silk thong has dropped bindings that cup the bottom in a nod to jock straps, yet is elegant enough to read high fashion. There are slivers of raw edges on bra tops that add unexpected texture. Cutaways on the hips of briefs are both refined and slightly rough. This incorporation of masculine details on pieces designed for women is a hallmark of androgynous lingerie. It all comes together in a showing of strength and sensuality.
The photoshoot is exceptionally well-executed and surprisingly intimate. I love that the campaign is refreshingly female gaze-focused. These women aren’t there for male pleasure, they’re there for their own pleasure. I get the sense these are photos shot specifically for women, so women can virtually step into the frame in an empowering way. The resulting photos are multifaceted, a wonderful dichotomy of soft and strong, fierce and feminine, erotic and ambivalent. These are women who are living, not just modeling lingerie. And it’s really wonderful to see.
While Marie Yat is based in London, Maria is a Hong Kong native where the collection is produced. Pieces will be available for sale in early November. Prices will range from around $30-$125 for underwear, and $80-$300 for loungewear. While a size chart is not yet available, pieces will be available in XS-L.
What do you think of Marie Yat’s debut collection? Would you try any of these pieces? Are you a fan of androgynous lingerie?