Posts from April, 2011

Everything You Need to Know About Pin-up Lingerie

We’re continuing Pin-up Week with an in-depth discussion of pin-up lingerie–what it is, which pieces you need, and how to keep it looking like new for as long as possible.  So let’s get started!

What is Pin-up Anyway?
The word pin-up refers to the kind of mass-produced images that were originally “pinned up” on people’s walls in the form of posters, postcards, magazine cutouts, and the like.  These photos and drawings were often of “glamour girls” like actresses, models, and other celebrities.  

Though the pin-up genre began in the 1890′s with the iconic Gibson Girls, it didn’t really take off until the 1940′s and 50′s with the debut of pin-up models like Betty Grable and Bettie Page and pin-up artists like Alberto Vargas and Gil Elvgren. 

No matter the era though, the thing all pin-ups have in common is that they represent an idealized (and, in some cases, unrealistic) version of the female form.

 

The Pin-up Silhouette
The quintessential pin-up shape is the classic hourglass figure, with the waist being much smaller than the bust or hips.  In the Gibson Girl era, that figure was achieved through the use of corsets, bustles, and hoopskirts. In the 1930s through 50′s, girdles, bullet bras, and waist cinchers were used.

Though modern day clothing really isn’t cut to accommodate pin-up lingerie, these retro underpinnings are essential if you prefer to wear vintage fashions. Without pieces like girdles and slips, your vintage clothing simply won’t have the right shape, and the entire look will seem “off” as a result.

In terms of fabrics, pin-up style lingerie is traditionally made with materials like powermesh, silk, satin, lycra, lace, and nylon. You’ll see very little cotton, and almost no recently invented fabrics like microfiber.

 
Essential Pin-up Lingerie 
Now that we’ve got the foundations covered (no pun intended), it’s time to move on to the actual pieces a lover of pin-up lingerie should have in their wardrobe–

Bullet Bra–Sophia Loren didn’t wear a t-shirt bra, and though they have their place in a modern girl’s wardrobe, there is no room for them in a vintage gal’s lingerie drawer.  Bullet bras are known for their pointy cups, and often utilize concentric stitching to help maintain their shape without underwires.  Because bullet bras are made with vintage patterns )which often require non-stretch fabrics), I recommend buying up one band size from what you normally wear.  If you have shallow breasts (like I do), bullet bra pads can help you fill out the cups.  Secrets in Lace carries the most comprehensive selection of bullet bras I’ve ever seen, though they don’t stock cup sizes below B or over D.
Brief or Tap Pant Knickers–Rita Hayworth didn’t wear thongs, and if you want that vintage look, neither should you.  Full cut knickers not only give the appropriate shape to the bottom, they also avoid that bane of every woman’s existence…visible pantylines.  My absolute fave high-cut knickers are made by Lucy B. Try her burlesque style Scantie Panty or, if you’re feeling a little minxish, the animal print Tigress Panty.  Tap Pant fans will want to take a look at Lady Jane Lingerie…they specialize in handmade silk tap pants.
Girdles–Girdles smooth, shape, and support…giving a firm, tight look under clothing.  In the old days, a woman was not considered respectable if she left the house without her girdle, and in some parts of the country, that’s still true today (I grew up in Georgia, and clearly remember shopping with my Mom for my very first girdle as a teenager). Girdles are sold by your waist size, and as a general rule, if your hips are 10″ or more larger than your waist, you’ll want to go up one size.  Readers with slimmer frames may want to opt for a traditional 6-strap garter belt instead of a girdle, while those who need more tummy control (instead of hip and bottom shaping) will want to look for a waist cincher.  Kiss Me Deadly makes the best girdles in the world, and What Katie Did makes my favorite garter belts.
Fully-fashioned stockings–Pantyhose weren’t invented until the 1960′s, and while there are images of vintage pin-ups in fishnet tights, the definitive pin-up look requires stockings.  But not just any stocking…authentic fully-fashioned stockings.  Unlike modern day hosiery, which is knitted in the shape of a tube, fully fashioned stockings are knitted flat.  Afterward, the two sides are sewn together to form a fully-functional backseam (as opposed to the purely decorative backseam on most nylons). The two trademarks of a fully-fashioned stockings are the keyhole at the back of the welt and the fancy heel at the back of the foot.  Because fully-fashioned stockings are made with 100% nylon and have no stretch, they’re purchased according to the height and shoe size of the wearer.  My favorite stockings brand is Cervin, which you can purchase from Hepburn & Leigh. I also like the fancy vintage stockings from Kay Marel (though readers who are taller than about 5’6″ aren’t a good candidate for them).

Slips–Thanks to vintage-inspired shows like Mad Men, the slip is experiencing a resurgence in popularity. While the slip’s main wardrobe function is to provide an extra layer for thin, rough, or sheer fabrics, it’s also a remarkably sexy piece of bedroom wear that flatters almost every woman.  In fact, The Boyfriend’s favorite kind of lingerie for me to wear is a lacy, satiny full sip.  My favorite slips come from Farr West, and Lingerie Addicts on a budget will want to visit their e-bay outlet store, where I’ve purchased nearly half a dozen slips so far.

How to Keep Your Pin-Up Lingerie Looking New
So you’ve bought your bullet bras, stockings, and garter belt and you’re all ready for a night on the town in full on Dorothy Dandridge glory.  But before you get too excited, invest in your lingerie by purchasing these two things:

1) Hosiery Gloves–I’ve got to get a little stern here because this is serious business. If you wear stockings, you must own a set of hosiery gloves. No excuses. Nylon is incredibly delicate, and the slightest hint of a hangnail will rip your stockings to shreds (ask me how I know this). Save yourself the heartache of tearing your favorite stockings by buying a pair (or three!) of hosiery gloves. I buy mind for $3.95 at Stocking Showcase.

2) Lingerie Wash–It goes without saying that you’re special pin-up lingerie should not be subjected to the tortures of a washing machine. The material is far too fragile, and you’ll wind up with a bunch of expensive rags at the end.  But just soaking them in your sink in regular hand soap isn’t enough either.  True lingerie addicts know to use a dedicated lingerie wash for their intimates. I recommend Forever New for bras, knickers, and garter belts and Hosiery Mate for stockings. Together, they’re less than $30, but they could literally save you hundreds.

I hope this article helps you in your search for vintage and pin-up style lingerie. Got a tip of your own to share? Tell us in the comments!

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Pin Up Week: 7 Must Haves for Every Pin Up Lovers Library

One of the questions I’m asked most often–aside from how to buy pin-up lingerie–is what kinds of books and videos (that aren’t porn!) pin-up fans can add to their bookshelves and video collections.  It’s a great question and one I wish I’d been able to find the answer to when I was starting my own journey into lingerie addiction.  With that in mind, I’ve compiled this list of 3 videos and 4 books I believe every pin-up fan needs.  And in case you’re wondering, yes I do own everything on this list!

The Notorious Bettie Page–Starring Grechen Moll as the “Queen of Pin-up,” Bettie Page, this biopic takes a look at the life of an icon. While some complained that the lead doesn’t resemble Bettie Page, I think this film does a great job of capturing the sexual, cultural, and political climate of the 1950′s.

Bettie Page: Varietease/Teaserama–This video double-set of videos features Bettie Page alongside the other great ladies of her day like Tempest Storm and Cherrie Knight. Fans of burlesque, pin-up, striptease, and classic lingerie will love these videos.

The Irving Klaw Classics, Vol. 1-4–The Irving Klaw boxed set consists of four separate videos each composed of 10 or so short film clips. With videos dedicated to wrestling, fetish, dance, and (of course) Bettie Page, there’s something here for every pin-up fan.

1000 Pin-Up Girls–I call this book my “Pin-up Bible.” Everything a lover of the pin-up aesthetic could want is here…from vintage magazine covers to saucy pictorials. For only $10, there’s endless inspiration here.

Gil Elvgren: All His Glamorous American Pin-Ups–If Bettie Page is the Queen of Pin-ups, then Gil Elvgren is it’s King. From the coquettish poses to the flirtatious facial expressions, no other artist captures the glamour, innocence, and playfulness that is pin-up better than Gil Elvgren.

Viva’s Pinups: Bullet Bras and Backseat Betties–Much like models, photographers either have “it” or they don’t…and Viva definitely has it. Her book of vintage-style pin-ups with a modern twist continues in tradition of pin-up masters like Bunny Yeager and Irving Klaw.

A Serious Study of Mid-20th Century Lingerie–As the founder of What Katie Did Lingerie, Katie Halford is one of the world’s foremost experts on vintage, pin-up, and retro lingerie. And she shares her expertise with all of us in this book full of super interesting facts and really pretty pictures.

Photo Credit: Treacle Tart by Viva van Story

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Runway to Realway: Lingerie Fashion Trends for S/S 2011

Even though it’s still sleeting in Seattle, the calendar tells me Spring is here, and that means it’s time for a little wardrobe update with the latest fashion.  I’ve already touched on some of the trends in my Curve Report and also in the article 10 Lingerie Sets You Need This Season.  But if I’ve learned anything from years of reading Vogue, it’s that you can’t talk too much about fashion…especially when it comes to incorporating the latest looks into your everyday wardrobe.  Fortunately, there’s lots of ways to express your style with your lingerie this season. Here, I’ll talk three trends I’m really loving right now– lace, prints, and brights.

Lace

I am obsessed with lace this season, and I’m sure you can understand why. Lace is the epitome of elegance, class, and luxury and it’s a material that looks just as seductive on innerwear as it does on outerwear. Zinke’s white lace romper (available August 2011) is a beautiful take on the white lace trend (as seen on the Brioni runway), while Myla’s Lotus Chemise and Agent Provocateur’s Penelope Basque perfectly capture the seductive power of black lace (as seen in the Zac Posen and Francesco Scognamiglio shows, respectively).

Prints

A fashion classic, leopard print makes a reappearance this season, but in a more subdued way (as seen in the Blumarine show). Stella McCartney embodies the essence of this new neutral with her Marguerite line.  Spring just isn’t spring without floral prints, but even if Issac Mizrahi’s dress isn’t to your liking, you can still indulge the trend with the Watercolor Roses bra & panty set from Calvin Klein.  Finally, polka dots are back in a big way. Moschino’s polka dot print suit is a bit “loud” for my tastes, but I love the romantic pastel dots from Emily B. Best of all, this is a maternity bra, so my new Moms can indulge the lingerie love too! My curvy and plus sized readers may also want to take a look at Elomi’s Cherry Blossom print bra and brief set.

Brights

Bright colors are huge this season, especially shades like grape, plum, and coral.  Fendi, Diane von Furstenberg, and Issa all showed gorgeous, vibrant colors on their runways for this season and the lingerie world doesn’t disappoint.  Treat yourself to Emporio Armani’s balconette bra & brief, Fleur of England’s “Tease” Balcony Bra & Brief, or Mary Green’s silk “Satin Doll” chemise…the lavender and berry shades flatter a variety of skintones.

What’s your favorite lingerie trend from this season? Tell me in the comments!

Photo Credits: All runway images from Style.com. Lingerie images from their respective stores.

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Grade A-Cup: Easy Answers to Small Bust Questions

Today’s guest post is by Gayvin Powers, a.k.a. Eve of Eve’s Apples Lingerie. As the founder and owner of a lingerie store specializing in small bra sizes, Eve has been featured in the New York Times, Cosmopolitan Magazine, Marie Clare, and Jezebel.  Here, she shares her expertise on how to solve several common problems for women with small bra sizes.  Eve also invites Lingerie Addict readers to write her at eve@evesappleslingerie.com with their small bust questions.
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Does your lack of cleavage have you in a conundrum? Does the training bra in the ‘tween department fill your nightmares? Are you haunted and taunted by your “A” cup bra?

If you answered “Yes,” chances are you have a small or petite bustline.

Most smaller, natural chested women have run into countless problems shopping for bras over the years. The following are just a few of the obstacles small and petite busters deal with in getting a bra that fits well. But never fear, help is on the way!

* The dreaded triangle training bra — everyone’s had one. No one enjoys it.

Fortunately, several lingerie companies are now specializing in petite bras and flattering bralettes that look divine on a small bust. A few of my favorites are Wacoal, Timpa, The Little Bra Company and Eberjey.

* Condescending comments from Sales Reps with more endowed bosoms. A Sales Rep from a popular store once told my friend looking for a push up bra, “We can only work with what you’ve got.”

It’s unfortunate that every woman I’ve spoken to has endured some kind of ridicule based upon her breast size. As a result, I subscribe to the saying, “No one can hurt your feelings without your permission.”

* Cups that pucker away from the breast. “You mean to tell me that a AA is too big?”

This is the most common bra problem for all women. When the cup puckers away from the breast (leaving a peek-a-boo affect), it means the underwire isn’t gathering the entire width of the breast into the cup. The quick fix is to “Go DOWN a band size and UP a cup size.”

* Bras that look too small for your torso. “I finally found a small bra I like, and you’re telling me that my body is too big even though my boobies are too small?”

Yep, this is a common one too. A larger cup size is needed. Specifically, a wider underwire is needed to gather all the breast tissue into the cup.

* “When looking from the side, my bra makes my breasts look mutated!”

The cup flattens to the top of the chest, looking deflated while bottom of the cup pops out. The result is a deformed look. A lot of women experience this when there is too much material on top of the cup. C’est tres désastre! Try a demi cup, balconette or bralette instead.

* “I’m destined to a life without cleavage.”

Make way, there is help! A great plunge or push up bra will bring out cleavage that you never knew you had. Nowadays, there are several great cleavage bras that go down to a 28AA, providing unbelievable cleavage. I recommend The Little Bra Company’s Lucia Bra, Panache’s Atlantis Gel Bra, onGossamer’s Bump It Up Front Close Bra, and Wacoal’s Embrace Lace Bra.

Trust me, the list goes on. These are just a few of the common bra problems women have when looking for a small bra. For more personal questions answered, you can email Eve (eve@evesappleslingerie.com) with the subject “Ask Eve.”

For women with a small bust or petite bosom, shopping for a bra and grown up lingerie need not be a panic filled, prepubescent trip down memory lane. Designers, manufacturers and stores are coming together to serve this underrepresented market. Days of the white polyester training bra are over! “Celebrate Your Inner Eve” today!

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Welcome Tiny Nibbles Readers!

Photo by The Loved One

Thank you for visiting my blog! I’m so happy Violet Blue told you about me.

If this is your first time here, why not start with my Top 20 Articles from 2010? If you’re in the mood for buying some lingerie, take a look at The 2nd Annual Scanties: the best lingerie of 2010.  Searching for lingerie advice? Then The Essential Addict is the place to be.

You can also find me on Facebook, Twitter, and Tumblr if you’re a social media addict like me. ;)

Just want to say hello? Then send a message to treacle@thelingerieaddict.com. I read every e-mail, and I’d love to hear from you! Thanks again for visiting The Lingerie Addict, and I hope you come back soon.

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How to Buy Eco-Friendly Lingerie

Next Friday, April 22nd, is Earth Day, but since it’s also Bettie Page’s birthday, we’ll be celebrating Pin-up Week instead. However, there’s been a lot of interest in eco-friendly and ethically-produced lingerie lately, and I wanted to make sure we talked about it on the blog. So I asked Josh Verleun, environmental lawyer and co-founder of Between the Sheets to share his expertise with us here. He and Layla are also appearing on Sundance channel’s “All on the Line” tomorrow night so be sure to check them out!
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They say “green” is the new black. The world is changing and more and more companies are introducing “eco-friendly” products into their lineups. Although the thought of environmentally friendly apparel may evoke nightmares of scratchy hemp and drab colors, this perception couldn’t be further from the truth. Thankfully some of the softest most comfortable, luxurious fabrics are eco-friendly, and many eco-lines have a vibrant color palate.

With so many companies jumping on the green bandwagon and throwing around terms like “sustainable”, “eco-friendly”, and “green” in a seemingly interchangeable manner it can be almost impossible to sort out what it all means. The fashion and lingerie worlds are no different with new eco-lines introduced every season.

With so many terms floating out there I think it is important to start the conversation about “eco-fashion” from a baseline understanding of what these terms mean. It’s also true that no matter how “green” a new line may be, there are always tradeoffs and environmental costs of some sort. For example a line of “eco” undies could be made from organic cotton or modal, but use spandex or other non-sustainable stretch fibers in their fabric. Even though spandex may not make you think of saving the planet, using a fabric with high spandex content makes the garment last longer and wear better, keeping it in your drawer and out of the garbage.

Apparel companies who set out to create eco-friendly lines must make countless numbers of these types of decisions and have to decide where their fabrics, trims, and other materials are sourced, as well as where the line is manufactured. This makes it very important for companies to be transparent with their customers about these decisions.

What does “green” mean?
It can be a challenge to sort out what each “green” term means, and figure out which terms have real meaning and are more than just marketing buzzwords. For example “Certified Organic” products are regulated by the US Department of Agriculture and must follow certain standards, Fair Trade Certified apparel (which recently was introduced to the US) is certified by several affiliated not-for-profit organizations around the world and works to guarantee fair wages and labor conditions. On the other hand products that call themselves “green” or “sustainable” are using vague and poorly defined terms that could mean a whole range of things.

Even if a garment is made of organic or another eco-material it doesn’t necessarily mean that it is environmentally friendly. This is why transparency from a company is so important. For example—a shirt could be made of organic cotton, but be dyed in a polluting dye-house in China , or could be sewn in a factory that does not pay a living wage. This same organic cotton could come from China, be cut in Mexico, and sewn, in India—adding up to a large carbon footprint.

How to tell “real green” from “greenish”
Even though many lines call themselves green because they use “sustainable” materials, not all “green” is created equal.

Bamboo: Fabrics made of bamboo have been touted as natural, green, and environmentally friendly, but are produced using a non-natural chemical process that leads to air and water pollution. The bamboo plants are broken down to be spun into fibers using acetate (not so different from nail polish remover). These deceptive eco-claims led the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) to crack down on companies who were “Bamboozaling” consumers by falsely marketing their clothing made of bamboo fabrics using terms such as natural, and environmentally friendly-when the fabric was in fact Rayon.

Cotton: Other fibers used in fabrics can be more environmentally friendly—although there are still eco-pluses and minuses. Cotton is considered the world’s ‘dirtiest’ crop-even though it covers 2.5% of the world’s cultivated land traditional cotton production uses 16% of the world’s insecticides, more than any other single major crop. Organic cotton is grown in a manner that doesn’t use harmful pesticides, thus sharply reducing the environmental impact. Despite these huge reductions in impact, like all cotton, organic cotton uses an enormous amount of water to grow, which in and of itself is an environmental impact.

Modal: Another eco-friendly fiber is modal. Made from sustainably harvested beech trees-the wood is broken down using chemicals in a “closed-loop” process that reuses much of the chemicals. The fibers are then spun and knit into fabric. Although similar, this process is far more environmentally friendly than the process that turns bamboo into fiber as the chemicals are reused and not discarded.

Polyester: It may surprise you, but Polyester is now emerging as an “eco friendly” fabric. With advancements in production and recyclability, polyester’s environmental star is on the rise, even though it is made from a non-renewable resource.

Environmentally friendly and affordable:
Even though the desire is often there to buy products and support companies who help protect the planet, cost can sometimes get in the way. As more and more companies introduce environmentally friendly lines the price points for these offerings has started to broaden from basic to contemporary to luxury. Although you don’t often find eco-friendly lingerie at bargain basements prices there are lines that hit price points from $15-20 for bottoms and $30-$50 for bras. At most price points the added benefit is often that the lines are produced in the US, supporting our local economy and keeping jobs from vanishing overseas.

It’s Easy to Go Green:
With so many companies offering “green” or “eco-friendly” intimates and other fashion, going green is not so hard or expensive. All that it takes is a little time to become an educated consumer on the things to look for and a dedication to buy from companies who are transparent and market “eco friendly” products real information and not just vague ill-defined buzzwords.

Bio: Josh Verleun lives and works in New York City as an environmental lawyer and business advisor.  He currently holds the position of Staff Attorney at Riverkeeper, a not for profit tasked with protecting the waters of New York and serving as a global model for watershed stewardship and protection.

Josh is also the Vice President of Between the Sheets, a designer Loungewear and Intimate apparel manufacturer. In his role at BTS Josh provides legal counsel and contributes expertise in environmental and sustainable business practices. You can learn more about Josh at www.joshuaverleun.com 

Photo Credits: Between the Sheets, Sandmaiden Sleepwear, Hopeless Lingerie, Purrfect Pineapples, ClareBare Lingerie

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The Between The Sheets Blogaversary Giveaway Winner!

As usual, I used random.org to select the winner of the lingerie giveaway, and the prize goes Brittany, the fabulous author of Thin and Curvy!

Brittany, I’m going to contact you and Layla of Between the Sheets shortly so the two of you can start talking about the best way to get your luxury robe to you.

For everyone else that entered, thank you so much for being a part of my 3 year anniversary celebration! Come back to the blog on Monday for a very special guest-blog from Josh Verleun, the co-founder of Between the Sheets, all about organic, eco-friendly, and fair trade lingerie!

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