Posts in category "vintage"

Great Gatsby Fever: 20 Pieces of Vintage 1920′s Lingerie

Fifi D’Orsay

As you’ve probably noticed, fashion mags have been obsessed with all things Great Gatsby for the last weeks. Honestly, I seriously considered not doing a 1920s-themed post at all (oversaturation and all that), but then I started looking through a few vintage lingerie archives and what I saw completely changed my mind. I think I may have forgotten it a little, but 1920′s lingerie is gorgeous.

Swanky.

There’s a lot to love about the Twenties when it comes to undergarments, and one of the things I appreciate the most is how this period introduced a completely new way of thinking about lingerie to women. For the first time in a long time, comfort, not restriction was the goal. The tightly laced corsets, binding girdles, and ample petticoats that both precede and follow the 20′s are nowhere to be seen.

Now I want a teddy/romper.

In addition, still-relevant styles like the bandeau bra and camiknickers (a.k.a ‘step-ins’, a.k.a ‘combinations’ a.k.a. rompers) are introduced. Because the emphasis is on unfussy construction, the beautiful textiles  gauzy silks, delicate laces, pastel colors, etc.) are able to shine through. And while I wouldn’t say the 1920′s are my favorite era for lingerie, putting together this blog post has given me a whole new appreciation of it.

What do you think of this style of lingerie? Is it due for a comeback? Or should the past stay in the past?

1920′s silk chiffon lace teddy, via Vintage Textile Archives

1926-7 silk nightgown, via The Met Museum

1920′s lace chemise teddy, via Salon of the Dames

1920s lace bra and tap pants, via Vintage Textile

1920′s silk charmeuse and cotton lace teddy, via The Arizona Costume Institute

1920′s blue silk chiffon and lace teddy, via Vintage Textile Archives

1920s silk and lace teddy, via Met Museum

1920s silk and lace peignoir, via Vintage Textile

1925 Lace Trimmed Silk Teddy, via Vintage Textile

1920s silk pajamas, via The Met Museum

1920′s lace dressing gown, via eBay

1920′s silk bra and tap pants, via Vintage Textile

1920s french satin and lace nightgown, via Vintage Textile

1920s silk pajamas, via The Met Museum

1920′s pink and black lace bra, via Planet Claire Vintage

1920′s silk and linen lingerie, via The Met Museum

1920s satin bra, via The Kyoto Costume Institute

1920s silk robe, via Dronning Vintage

1920s hand-embroidered mint chemise

1920s velvet robe, via Live Auctioneers

Treacle

Treacle

Lingerie Blogger. Sugar Junkie. Sci-Fi Geek.

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Undressing the Pinup Look

Gil Elvgren: All His Glamorous American Pinups, my reference text for this article.

Pinup style, despite its classic vintage air, has a certain timelessness about it. The look has a niche following that ebbs and flows but changes slowly and dies seemingly never. I sat down to dissect what styling elements really make up the archetypal pinup look, with a little help from Gil Elvgren. Gil Elvgren is probably the best known, and most quintessential, pinup artist (more on that next week!), so I took my cues from an anthology of his paintings published by Taschen.  The following is an analysis of fashion in classic pinup art.

Simple, classic pinup bra and panty

A simple bralette is a surprisingly popular look in pinup illustrations.

The pinup bra is not beribboned and lacy, nor is it a bullet bra. No, what I saw the most of was simple bralettes: soft, often triangular cups; a clean, simple shape. Lucky for us, bralettes have been gaining in popularity over the past couple of years. Look for a simple black, sheer, or lace style and pair it with anything high waisted. As far as panties and bottoms go, the rise is virtually always on the natural waist. However, it’s not sleek, fitted briefs that were the stars: fitted or loose tap shorts were by far the most prolific style. For a daywear version of the same look, you could pair a bandeau or cropped blouse with sleeves with a pair of high-waist shorts or trousers with contrast detailing.

Garters and stockings, of course, are a must-have. Four garters, rather than the contemporary six, used to be the standard. Stockings were fully-fashioned in sheer brown or black.

Floor-length sheer negligee, a pinup classic (illustrated in a vaguely surreal non-pinup setting)

For loungewear, you can’t go wrong with sheer, floor-length negligee. A more youthful look would be a lightweight or semi-sheer tunic-length nightie (just long enough to cover your rear), flared out from the shoulders, covering the torso to the pit of the throat, such as the one on the cover of the Elvgren book at the top of the page. (This, of course, looks particularly fetching when backlit from a cozily roaring hearth, casting a clear and curvy silhouette through the thin material.)

Bustier with decorative front lacing detail.

If you’re wanting a bustier, corset, or basque, look for one with lace panels at the center front, or front lacing detail.  You probably won’t find one quite as cleavage-y as those illustrated, though.

The pinup color palette is heavy on black, white, and primary colors (with black and white, of course, being the favorite for lingerie).  Springy floral and pastel tones are also popular.  Prints are generally limited to floral motifs and classic stripes and gingham.

Lastly, with regard to what one would wear on top of all this lovely lingerie, the silhouettes are surprisingly modest in coverage, yet still figure conscious.  Dresses or blouses might still have sleeves and modest necklines, even peter pan collars, but are well fitted to the bust and waist.  Skirts are full, roughly knee-length, and, apparently, always caught on something.  A sash or belt further highlights the nipped in natural waist of a vintage figure.  The summery version of the look might feature a low, scooped neckline, spaghetti straps, and fit gathers under the bustline.

If you have any questions or comments, please share your thoughts in the discussion below!

New Pinup Photos from POC Photo!

Last month, I had the pleasure of another pinup photoshoot with the always amazing Paul O’Connell of POC Photo and The Shanghai Pearl. We work so well together that I’m always excited to share the images and this time is no different. Though we’ve shot together several times before, I think these may be my favorite images to date.

Credits are as follows – Model: Me, The Lingerie Addict. Photography: POC Photo. Makeup, Hair, and Styling: The Shanghai Pearl. Bra: Von Follies by Dita von Teese. Knickers: Vintage Vanity Fair via Intimate Retreat. Peignoir: Dottie’s Delights. Stockings: Stockingirl. Shoes and Earrings: Stylist’s Own.

Thanks for looking at my most recent photos!

Treacle

Treacle

Lingerie Blogger. Sugar Junkie. Sci-Fi Geek.

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10 Vintage Bras on Etsy

If you’re looking to add to your vintage bra collection or maybe purchase your first one, here is a list of 10 vintage bras that we’ve found on Etsy. Take a look, and click the links or pictures to be taken to the pages. Enjoy.

Va Va Voom Vintage: Why We Love it and Where to Get it

Costumes from PBS’s “Downton Abbey”

It has been noted by many that we seem to be caught up in a cultural love affair with bygone eras.  Immersive period shows like “Boardwalk Empire,” “Mildred Pierce,” and “Downton Abbey” have flourished as a counterbalance to the ephemerality and tawdriness of of the ubiquitous reality show.  We seem to crave escape to other worlds, the security of an already-resolved past, and the romance of nostalgic craft.

This is great if you love looking at vintage lingerie–because it’s everywhere.  I have always collected early 20th century lingerie, mostly slips and robes, with the occasional tap pant in the mix.  I don’t really wear any, but occasionally pull pieces out just to look at them, in the same way and for some of the same reasons people watch period TV shows.  Just touching the delicate peach silk and intricate embroidery fills me with awe for the craftsmanship of past masters and allows a brief moment of nostalgia and escape.

“Vintage” lingerie is a term that people often use to refer–both in Google and in the fashion world– to midcentury looks: bullet bras, high waisted briefs, garters.  Everyone loves a 50′s pinup, but I find the luxury and elegance of earlier lingerie from the 1910′s-1940′s more exquisite and compelling.

Costume from HBO’s “Boardwalk Empire”

Costumes from HBO’s “Boardwalk Empire”

So you can imagine my overwhelming joy when fellow TLA writer and vintage lover, Kristina, and I visited the Manhattan Vintage Clothing Show in October.  I went bananas!  This is a semi-annual retail show, filled with vendors of vintage clothing from the 18th-20th centuries.  (Note: I was surprised to notice that many vintage vendors live vintage lives, i.e. they do not have websites, so if you’re interested in buying, you can visit them at vintage shows or visit the sites I’m recommending at the end.  These photos below are for inspiration.)

Lisa Victoria Vintage stood apart from the others.  Its owner, Lisa, clearly selects her assortment with care and knowledge, and every stunning piece was of high quality and in good condition.  She not only sells to the public, but also supplies costumes for movies and TV, including “Boardwalk Empire.”  Her items are not available to buy online, but can be purchased at vintage shows, and admired on her site.

Silver silk gown with lace and self fabric appliques. Lisa Victoria Vintage.

Silk and Lace Bralette. Lisa Victoria Vintage

Deep V gown with faggotting and applique detail. Lisa Victoria Vintage.

Other gorgeous inspiration pieces from Hollywood and Vine Vintage,  Ritual Vintage, and Right to the Moon Alice:

Silk Teddy. Ritual Vintage.

Drop waist chemise. RItual Vintage.

Silk crepe gown detail. Hollywood and Vine Vintage.

Silk tap pant. Hollywood and Vine Vintage.

Chiffon and lace bodice. Hollywood and Vine Vintage.

This floral print seems current and fresh. Right To the Moon Alice Vintage.

Empire waist drop shoulder gown. Right to the Moon Alice.

If you’re looking to buy vintage lingerie, and you’re not near a vintage show, check out your local thrift stores, swap meets, estate sales, and textile shows.  I’ve found undervalued pieces just lying around the most unexpected corners.

You can also check out etsy, ebay, and these sites for an ever-changing assortment of early 20th century lingerie:

1920′s Teddy. www.vintagetextile.com

White silk and lace 30′s or 40′s dressing gown. www.theamericanvernacular.com

c1938 trousseaux slips. www.antiquedress.com

Peach silk chemise. www.poshgirlvintage.com

Here’s a great blog post about “Boardwalk Empire” and 20′s lingerie: http://16sparrows.typepad.com/16sparrows/2012/05/1920s-lingerie-in-boardwalk-empire.html

Please share any vintage resources you love!  Do any readers out there actually wear their vintage pieces?

Laura a.k.a. Lola Haze

I’ve loved lingerie since before that was reasonable. I taught myself drawing, designing, and sewing, and after graduating from Harvard with an English degree, immediately went to work disregarding it and following my passion for fashion. After a few years designing for a big company, I went off on my own and started Lola Haze TM, (named after the title character in “Lolita,” my favorite book). Lola Haze is playwear for the bold woman who loves fun and dresses for herself! I feel happy and lucky that I get to love my job so much, and am thrilled to share my lingerie enthusiasm with The Lingerie Addict!

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Lingerie Reviews: Autumn Acquirements From Maison Close, Lascivious, & Lacing Lilith

Disclaimer: The Soie Cherie set was kindly provided MemeShop.  All other garments in this post were purchased by myself.  Lascivious and Lacing Lilith are not affiliated with these reviews in any way.  All opinions are my own.

I’m constantly shopping for new lingerie – I have a terrible habit of justifying it as ‘research’ for my lingerie studies!  I’m forever trawling the internet, sample sales and ebay in case I manage to uncover a bargain.  Here’s my lucky finds from the last month and what I thought of them.

Maison Close’s Soie Cherie bra. Image from MemeShop.com

I’ve encountered the brand Maison Close only briefly in the past – they’d always appeared to me as being highly erotic and boudoir wear focused, with lots of garments featuring naughty cut outs and straps.  The Soie Cherie set was therefore quite a pleasant surprise – it’s much more girly and not quite as obvious as the brand’s other offerings.  Featuring a soft bra (£60)  and detachable-suspender brief (£55), the set is made in a stretch fuchsia silk with delicate black stretch lace inserts.  Sizing comes up very small in Maison Close’s designs, so I would fully advise going up a size in any order.  I ended up ordering a Medium bra and Large briefs when I usually wear a 30D bra and UK 10/12 briefs.

My first impression of the set was that Maison Close use utterly gorgeous packaging – each garment comes in its own purple and gold branded box and is wrapped in tissue paper.  The actual set is very flirty and feminine – the combination of delicate lace and soft silk gives it a very luxurious feel.

Unfortunately it does appear to be a bedroom-only set. As with most soft styles, the bra doesn’t provide any major amount of support, though it does give a flattering shape to a smaller bust.  I also had some issues with the knickers – on their own, they are utterly fabulous, being both comfortable and flattering.  However, the problems start with the garters straps: the fact that they are silk makes adjusting them quite tricky, whilst the small clips can get quite fiddly and make it rather difficult to actually attach them to stockings. My real problem with them though was the fact that they don’t actually hold your stockings up – take a single step, and you’ll find your stockings actually start pulling your knickers down!  This is unfortunately unavoidable for any suspender straps that come from the hips and not the waist.  If you are considering buying them, I’d simply advise ditching the suspender straps and pairing the briefs with some lace hold ups.

I can’t deny that I’ve been eyeing up the Midori bodysuit (£198) for a while now – I adore Lascivious’ aesthetics, and as part of their ‘Classics’ range, this garment has simply been taunting me every season. I was lucky enough to find this bodysuit in a sample sale a couple of weeks ago and so avoided breaking the bank!  Featuring sheer net that drapes across the body, elastic strap detailing, satin ties around the bust and neck and suspender straps, it’s a hugely flattering piece for all sorts of body shapes.  The satin ties can be worn according to your preferences, whether you prefer them crisscrossing across the body or wrapped tightly under the bust.

Unfortunately I have once again encountered some trouble with Lascivious’ sizing – I’d previously purchased knickers and another bodysuit from them in a Medium, only to find that they were too short for me in the torso.  With this playsuit, I took a bit of a risk in buying it in a size Large.  Whilst it fits perfectly on my bottom, this time it’s a little too long in the torso, with the draped mesh falling a lot lower on my body than in any of Lascivious’ product shots!  Nevertheless, I think it still looks absolutely gorgeous when worn so I don’t have any real complaints!

Latex can seem like a pretty scary material for most people – with its obvious fetish connotations , the average lingerie lover is going to deem it as just a little too S&M to incorporate into their lingerie drawers.  Nevertheless, latex has been rather prevalent in the high fashion world recently, perhaps making it a little more socially acceptable!  I’ve previously only dipped my toes in the water by buying latex stockings and fingerless gloves (the perfect accessory to toughen up any lingerie outfit – trust me!), but decided to take a jump when I saw this Lacing Lilith corset sample (in my size would you believe it!) on ebay.  It’s a lot more extreme than my usual lingerie tastes but I still have no regrets – latex is a fabulously forgiving material and it’s bound to make an impact wherever you wear it.  I bought this with the intention of wearing it for Hallowe’en but I haven’t quite decided how I’ll be styling it! Either way, I have plans of making this corset at home with the rest of my lingerie collection – I wonder how softening the look with some lovely lacey pieces would look?

1940s and 1950s bras

Finally, my occasional perusing of Vintage shops resulted in my finding these two vintage lingerie treasures: a 1940s and a 1950s bra, both in amazing condition. Most surprising of all though is the fact that they both fit!  They both feature delicate lace inserts, pale satins and intricate stitching and boning.  Both bras use liberal amounts of boning for their support (instead of the underwire that we are all so familiar with now), with the 1950s bras’ being so effective it is in fact strapless.  They both have the rather pointy bust shape that was so popular at the time – unfortunately this renders them a little inappropriate for daily-wear, though the collector in me says this is irrelevant!

Readers: What do you think of my most recent lingerie wardrobe additions? What have your most recent purchases been?

Karolina

Karolina

Student at De Montfort University's world-renowned Contour Fashion course. Makes many knickers in her spare time.

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Indie Designer Spotlight: Deja Vu Dessous by Dollhouse Bettie

I first found out about the Deja Vu Dessous line when modeling for Dollhouse Bettie a few months ago.  I modeled three complete looks, and found myself loving each one.  Most of the pieces start from a vintage slip, from which designer Valerie Santillo makes everything from full teddies to bralettes and garter belts, half-slips, and panties.  Occasionally a slip will even get transformed into a very different slip as damage is cut away and it’s mixed with other fabrics and trims.

The execution of each design is elegant in its simplicity, nimbly transforming damaged vintage classics into a new look while preserving the integral charm of the original garment.  In this feature, I sit down with Valerie Santillo, who designs the Deja Vu Dessous line at Dollhouse Bettie.  You can view and purchase the Deja Vu styles online or at Dollhouse Bettie’s Haight St. boutique in San Francisco.

Deja Vu Dessous Valerie Peach & Ecru Lace Romper

Tell us a bit about the background of Deja Vu Dessous.  When did Dollhouse Bettie launch this line, and what was the original inspiration?
Deja Vu Dessous has been a long time in the making.  Michelle Metens, owner of Dollhouse Bettie, had the idea on the back burner for years before we launched it in 2011. We take authentic vintage garments that need repairs or have small defects, but are otherwise beautiful, and we revamp them.  The vintage pieces themselves were the inspiration – Michelle has collected some amazing garments over the years, aside from as-new and new-old-stock pieces we also sell.
Though Deja Vu Dessous is not a collection in the traditional sense, there are some consistent aesthetic and construction choices which characterize the line.  The overall look came to be when Michelle and I found some time in the studio- we just bounced ideas off one another until we arrived at the look that it is today.  We did a small collection together, and since then I have been designing Deja Vu for Dollhouse Bettie.  I think an important element of the line is the raw, “pinked” edges, which have become a main component of the look and feel.  It was also a great way to make use of what was available while adding a modern unique look to the line.

Deja Vu Dessous Leslie Bra & High Waist Pantie

Has the current vision for the line changed at all since its creation?
I think the vision has remained the same, but we are constantly expanding and evolving the line and getting re-inspired. We had started with using primarily vintage woven rayon slips and have grown to transform anything from tricot slips, bralettes, nightgowns… the list goes on. It’s all just trial and error, and as I create more pieces I get new ideas about finishing techniques.

What’s your favorite part of designing Deja Vu Dessous?
I love trying to maintain what I think is really beautiful about any given piece while also modernizing and updating it in some way. It can be a bit challenging at times, working from an already existing garment, but I think that challenge of trying to create something using only what I have available in front of me also encourages a lot of creativity.

Deja Vu Dessous Lola Peach Bralette & Garter Belt

What’s your background in fashion and design?
I have a BFA in fashion design from the Accademy of Art University here in San Francisco. My initial focus was not designing lingerie; I was primarily interested in designing women’s clothing.  The longer I spend time around all this gorgeous lingerie the more I see it influencing my designs!


What do you find most challenging?
As I mentioned earlier, it can be challenging to work within the limitations of an existing garment, but that is the fun of it as well. I’ve also noticed that if I have too many pre-conceived ideas of what I want to create it can be counterproductive.  Sometimes I just have to let the original garment dictate the design.

Deja Vu Dessous Clara Bralette & Tap Pantie

How much new construction and findings go into Deja Vu pieces?  Do you combine multiple pieces?
I love being able to use as many vintage elements in the finished product as possible but I also use new trims and components.  I think it’s the mixture of new and vintage that keeps Deja Vu exciting. I pretty much always combine multiple vintage pieces: the garters or straps will be salvaged from one garment, the accent color or trim may come from another. Michelle has been collecting vintage for so many years it feels like I have access to endless amounts of things to work with! It’s a lot of fun.
How do you come up with those style names?


For the most part I have named them with popular women’s names from the 1920s, 30s and 40s, depending on the personality of the item. However, I will change it up from time; each style in the last group, for example, was named after a Dollhouse Bettie employee.

Deja Vu Dessous Lola Peach Bralette & Garter Belt

Do the authentic vintage pieces and resulting Deja Vu styles inform and inspire ready to wear ideas for you and Dollhouse Bettie?

Yes, quite a bit actually. We have patterned some Deja Vu styles already, and I think it pretty much goes without saying many vintage pieces inspire and inform the styles that are put into production at Dollhouse Bettie.  Working with the pieces to revamp them for Deja Vu gives us additional insight into their construction and design. Personally, I am endlessly inspired by vintage garments and detailing, and creating Deja Vu pieces has helped me a lot with coming up new ideas and designs.

What about current designers, are there any in particular whom you admire?
I am constantly inspired by very small lingerie designers I might discover on Etsy, through a blog, or from a friend. Most recently, Stephanie Bodnar of Honey Cooler Handmade comes to mind. I kind of just stumbled upon her Etsy shop and I found her design aesthetic to be particularly charming.  I really love her point of view, not to mention her insertion lace technique is absolutely stunning! The fact that she does everything by hand is also a very inspiring aspect of her line, I love the uniqueness and individuality of all her pieces.

Deja Vu Dessous Ana Pink Bralette & Garter Belt

What do you think makes Deja Vu Dessous special?
I think the individuality of Deja pieces and the handmade, one-of-a-kind elements makes the line special. I always aim to maintain that line between vintage touches and modernity and I think that is an important element for the Dollhouse Bettie brand as a whole.

How do you think shoppers style their Deja pieces?  Mostly in their boudoir for seductive purposes?  Casual loungewear?  Innerwear as outerwear?
I would like to think all of the above! And from what I hear, that’s true. I try to incorporate versatility into many of the designs. Creating a garter skirt with detachable garters, for instance, allows a seductive lingerie garment to also serve as loungewear, a mini slip or possibly even a regular skirt.

Deja Vu Dessous Minnie Black Romper Teddy

What have some of your favorite designs been and why?Generally speaking, often my favorite designs are ones that seem to pave the way for new ideas. The most recent thing I have discovered will often be my favorite of the moment, possibly because I feel like I have figured out a new way to expand the range of styles we offer with Deja Vu. I also might be partial to a design simply because the original vintage garment was just exceptionally beautiful!

Do you have any Deja Vu Dessous pieces in your personal collection?
I actually have the very first piece we did for Deja Vu.  It was a teddy that Michelle and I had worked on together, when we were still working out the look of the brand.  I’m also always trying to think of ways I can “Deja” what I already own.

Deja Vu Dessous Frenchie Bralette & Mini Slip

What do you think is in the future for Deja Vu Dessous?
I am really excited to feature a special silk collection for Deja Vu. We have not yet expanded the range to include silk garments and there is quite a bit of stock just waiting for the right moment!

Deja Vu Dessous Eloise Bralette and Garter Skirt


What do you think of Deja Vu Dessous by Dollhouse Bettie?  How would you style the designs?  Do you have another favorite upcycling/vintage-repurposing designer?  Please share your thoughts in the comments!