Luxury Lingerie Review: Murmur 'Genie' Bodysuit
Disclosure: The garment in this review was purchased with my own money. All opinions are my own.
Murmur isn’t strictly a lingerie brand. Lingerie-inspired would be more apt. The overwhelming majority of their designs are very much outerwear focused, incorporating striking lingerie design elements like fan lacing, 1950 inspired bra cups, quilting, decorative suspenders, and fine lace.
Murmur is very much a luxury label, with prices for their signature ‘Sculpt’ bras starting at 349 euros (approximately $392). Several styles are made to order, but the brand’s website boasts an impressive turnaround time of 2-7 days.
Although the brand is usually firmly out of my budget, I was fortunate enough to snag one of its signature ‘Genie’ bodysuits from a stockist’s clearance sale.
The bodysuit is delightfully versatile in its design, just as easily styled as boudoir wear as it would for outerwear (just throw a skirt on top!). Retailing at 440 euros (approximately $494), it’s quite the investment piece. Ordinarily the style is made to order in the label’s Romanian Atelier, though you may be able to purchase some pieces ready made from brand stockists.
The bodysuit is available in black and coffee colourways, in sizes FR 34-40 (US 2-8), cup sizes B and C. This is a disappointingly narrow size range, particularly for made to order styles. But unfortunately not surprising for a luxury brand.
Fabrics and Construction:
The main fabric of the bodysuit is a satin weave blend of acetate, nylon and elastane. The satin has a subtle sheen as its finish, rather than the glossy shine that you’d expect from silk satin.
The underwired cups are lined with foam padding and feature a tulle pocket with removable pads that can be used to either boost the bustline or correct asymmetry. Fine French Chantilly lace trims the cup neckline and shoulder straps. The centre body panel is lined with a non-stretch viscose.
The bodysuit fastens with a sturdy zip through the centre back. The wide shoulder straps both ‘split’ at the back of the garment into narrower, adjustable straps with gold toned components.
The four garter straps each have a ‘V’ construction, made of non-adjustable satin and detachable with gold-toned hooks. The gold clips are covered with decorative grosgrain ribbon flashes. The gusset of the bodysuit is not lined, but is adjustable with 3 rows of hooks-and-eyes.
The bodysuit is impressively well-made, with accurate stitching and sturdy construction throughout. It utilises a number of unusual and time consuming techniques for its seams.
The raw fabric edges are all bound in satin. Then the seam allowances are either pressed open, or pressed to one side and zigzag stitched over. The zigzag stitches are a lovely touch, giving a decorative nod to 1950s foundation wear (as well as functionally reinforcing the seams).
The Chantilly lace that trims the neckline has a slightly disappointing finish. The lace splits where it joins the straps and is left with a raw edge. I am a little concerned with how this would hold up to long term wear. However it seems this is a fault that the brand has now addressed. The version of this bodysuit on their website shows the lace trim as a continuous piece, with all raw edges enclosed in seams.
I purchased the bodysuit in an FR 38, approximately my usual size of a UK10 (US6). At the time of purchasing, this was actually the largest size that the brand offered. However, in the past year it seems they’ve expanded the size range on this particular design very slightly.
Going by the brand’s own size chart, my measurements fit comfortably within the range for this design. My bust/waist/hips are 87cm (34.2")/66cm (26")/92cm (36.2") respectively. Murmur recommend a size 38 for up to 90cm (35.4")/71cm (28")/96cm (37.8").
The cups are a good fit on me, and the plunge underwire shape and padding options mean there is some flexibility for different bust sizes. It’s difficult to say if it fits ‘true’ to size or not, as ‘B cup’ by itself doesn’t mean anything without band size for context. For reference, I usually wear the equivalent cup volume of 30D/32C/34B.
The bodysuit does come up slightly short on my body, even with the adjustable gusset at maximum length. It’s best suited for shorter torsos. The stretch of the main body fabric is actually used vertically rather than horizontally, which does help a little.
Unfortunately, this bodysuit does come up extremely small, despite my measurements fitting comfortably within the brand’s recommended size range.
Although I can physically get into the bodysuit and fasten it, it’s so tight that I can’t move in it. Just standing up, the legline cuts into my hips and bottom. When I tried to bend over to pick up my camera lens cap during the photoshoot for this review, the centre back seam by the zip actually broke. Fortunately, it was the stitching rather than the fabric that tore, so repairing the garment was possible! It feels very much like a piece intended for standing around and looking pretty, rather than doing anything in.
Although the brand now offers a size larger in this style, I fear that going by the fit of this garment, I’d need at least 2 sizes larger. That unfortunately means that I’m sized out of this brand...at least for designs fitted to the bottom half of the body.
I still adore Murmur’s designs, and I’m impressed with how well made its garments are, but…it’s not a brand for me. Although I think the price point is justified for the quality and design of the garments, it’s still too steep for me to take another risk on the label when it seems that I’m rather firmly sized out. Despite what the size charts may say.