Lingerie Trend Roundup: Stand Out Prints and Embroideries for Autumn/Winter 2017
After a few years of attending CURVEXPO here in New York, everything starts looking a little identical. I tire of the same brands producing the same styles in new colors every year. Unless it's something I would personally love to wear, it's hard for me to keep focus.
Luckily, designers seemed to be a little more adventurous this season. Maybe they've realized making the same bland t-shirt bras every year won't guarantee sales. Or maybe they're saying, "Screw it, if the world is imploding, let's have a little fun."
Of course, it's yet to be seen if buyers will pick up any of these fun new styles, but they're lovely to look at. Like last season's unique print roundup, I kept my eyes open at CURVE for interesting patterns and embroideries and found some real gems.
Okay, how great is this little capsule collection by Atelier by Va Bien? I think everyone I know at CURVE was shocked, in the best way, by this group. It might be my favorite thing I saw, period. According to the design director, these prints were designed during the days leading up to the election.
These prints are inspired by strong women of mythology and pull energy from the popularity of astrology into a beautiful, ethically-made mini collection. I love the engineered, sky-map style embroidery with sans serif names included. I also love the vintage illustrations made modern by mirroring the print along the centers of pajamas and chemises.
Only Hearts has released some excellent prints over the past few seasons, and I wasn't disappointed this time around. Their heart-and-sword print is just enough Romeo and Juliet to feel romantic, but graphic enough to feel modern.
This watercolor-painted, fairy-printed chiffon manages to look not-so-twee by including a black background and messy edges.
While a little less literal than the other mythology-inspired pieces above, there is obvious Art Nouveau influence in this simple abstract pattern by Freya. It immediately brought to mind those fanciful drop-cap letters, except illustrated over a pair of panties instead of at the beginning of an early 20th century novel.
More cute graphic styles from Only Hearts, but this time in crisp, simple, white organic cotton with dainty, yet bold, embroidered blossoms. These pieces are undeniably modern styles, but the embroidery looks legitimately vintage.
Rya Collection is the new line by designer Flora Nikrooz (previously of her namesake collection). There were some great department-store-ready pieces I loved, but this was by far the most inventive. I don't know how well this robe would stand up to everyday wear, but I adore the use of fringed embroidery, a technique gaining popularity in ready-to-wear apparel right now. Too frequently, lingerie designers don't look outside their little intimates industry bubble for technique inspiration. This is what happens when they do.
There's something about Ginia's thread-heavy, classically-designed embroidered patches on a high-end silk pajama set that I love. Maybe because high-end silk pajamas are the last place you'd normally see the influences of DIY culture? I think it's great and definitely different from anything else out there.
These thistles were illustrated by Thistle and Spire's designer specifically for this bra, and it's executed so perfectly. Tiny black threads on illusion mesh in a namesake-inspired engineered embroidery? I am 100% here for it.
Autumn florals are easy to create (just put them on a dark background and, boom, done), but I love the literal Autumn colors and subtle metallic threads in this dainty floral mesh by Aubade.
The splatter effect over this digitally-printed watercolor pattern make this Freya set look like street art, but the classic shades of pink blossoms keep it from looking garish.
I just love the sweet simplicity of this Freya pattern. This is a pattern perfectly designed for a younger market. It's not trying to be wise beyond its years, or so super-kitsch it gives you a toothache. It's hyper-youthful, but that's what makes it great. Plus, the way the print perfectly matches the black-and-red-blossomed lace might be my favorite part.
Christine Lingerie always has fabulous floral robes, but I like that this one is a little weightier than their usual delicately elegant aesthetic. The bold black leaves and layers of botanicals look modern, but the engineering of the print makes it less-than-trendy.
This one is more along the lines of Christine Lingerie's usual watercolor florals, but the deep sapphire blue, dusty aqua, and mustard yellow tones are unusual and luxurious.
This large-scale high-impact floral from Ginia is another pajama set taking cues from ready-to-wear trends.
I love florals that border on abstract in unique ways. This one, by Samantha Chang, is almost photographic. It looks like it was printed in infared, or taken from under a microscope, or something.
So many good silk prints this season! The spidery blossoms on this Laurence Tavernier robe look like fireworks from far away and vintage botanical illustrations up close. The bright burgundy on the cobalt ground is excellent.
Mimi Holliday's Parisian print is exactly the type of conversational pattern I like to see at CURVE, and on intimates in general. Not many people see your underwear, so why not please yourself with a cute, silly little print like this one and dream of traipsing around Paris while you're in your dull work uniform? The bold primary colors on stark white are a nice change from the typical, pastel macaron colors of Paris-inspired prints.
These abstract-printed PJs from Naked Princess were a nice surprise. This style of pattern isn't unusual for silk pajamas, but I like how this one in particular feels like feathers refracted through a kaleidoscope. The negative space is balanced nicely without looking too uniform. Definitely one of my favorite abstracts from the show.
Yayyyy, Only Hearts brought back their erotic toile for AW17! This time, it's in a larger scale, on a navy ground, and with some wintry evergreen trees sketched in there. I'm so glad erotic toile seems to be a continually-rising trend.
Finally, some classic, gentle kitsch from Mimi Holliday with a carefully-designed card suite embroidery. The deep dusty purple on the cream background looks less harsh than black, making this set less "Alice in Wonderland 2010" and more "Wear Me Everyday This Fall."
What do you think? Would you wear these directional prints and embroideries?
All images copyright of Quinne Myers.