Posts in category "marianne"

In Defense of Ready-to-Wear Corsets

Victoria Dagger in a RTW “Vamp” corset by Pop Antique. Photo by Karolina Marek.

Let me start this post with two disclaimers:
1) I love corsets.
2) A good fit is absolutely key in a corset.

But I don’t think that fully custom is the only way to achieve a good fit in a corset.

Victoria Dagger in a Pop Antique “Flirt” RTW corset, which has a fit comparable to the Valentine shown below.  Victoria is 5’3″.  Photo by Andres Razo.

(Bonus disclaimer: I’m not talking about the kind of ready-to-wear corset that is sweatshop mass-produced with no shape and/or flimsy plastic bones, etc.  As far as I’m concerned, those aren’t even really corsets.)

I touched upon this a bit in a previous post, What (You Didn’t Know) to Look for in a Corset, but I’d like to go into it in more detail.  Unusual for an independent, handmade corsetiere, I actually love to specialize in a ready-to-wear fit rather than bespoke.  My line is called Pop Antique, and to me, there’s a really exciting challenge in creating a single corset pattern that fits an assortment of bodies.  It really pushes me to think about the body, what works, what doesn’t, what has the most wiggle room, etc.

Ulorin Vex in a Pop Antique RTW “Valentine” corset, paired with latex leggings and bolero.  Ulorin is 5’9″ tall.

Now, don’t get me wrong: this is not an article about how custom corsets are redundant and a waste of money, by any stretch.  The going theory is that because RTW corsets try to fit everyone, they actually fit no one, because the percentage of people with truly standard proportions are so small.

Victoria Dagger in a Dollymop for Dark Garden RTW bridal corset. Photo by Chris Gaede.

And maybe that last part is true.  Maybe no one is the ancient Greek ideal of proportion in every single limb.  But most corsets fit only from mid-hip to just above or below the bust, so it doesn’t matter as much if you have short legs or a long pelvis or long arms or broad shoulders or a short neck or a big forehead or any number of other minor differences in proportion.  And in my experience, even if you do have a proportion difference in your torso that affects corset fit, it is often something that can be addressed with one or two simple pattern changes, if it’s not corrected by a slight variation in the lacing gap.  Most commonly, the top or bottom edge will need to be raised or lowered to accommodate torso length, or there will be a circumference change to the rib or hip.

Model and client Elisa Berlin wears her 17″ Ingenue corset by Pop Antique – this shape was achieved with only two pattern changes from the ready-to-wear shape. Photo by Jon Bean Hastings.

The fact of the matter is, ready-to-wear, when designed well, is designed to fit as much of that corsetiere’s target market as possible.  Key to that train of thought are the words “target market” and “designed well.”  Just as each corsetiere has their own aesthetic in terms of color, embellishment, and fabrication, each corsetiere has a different silhouette ideal in their mind, is particularly sensitive to certain fit or comfort issues, and has a different demographic forming their local client base.  If a ready-to-wear fit isn’t right for you, it may just be that the corsetiere’s ready-to-wear line is designed for a different body type or standing posture.  It doesn’t mean their patterns are bad or that your body is shaped weirdly.  And if you are tied to working with that particular corsetmaker (we appreciate your interest and loyalty!), then that’s a great time to talk about pattern adjustments or bespoke fit.

Victoria Dagger in a custom Dark Garden “Grable” corset. Though Dark Garden typically uses flat steels throughout, this fashion show piece was made with spiral steels in deference to Victoria’s preference: having worn many ready-to-wear corsets, it didn’t take long to find out that flat steels bruise her rib cage. © Mask Photo.

You may be wondering if the bespoke corset wouldn’t be a better choice anyway – why not just go for full custom for the first time, and every time?  I want to play devil’s advocate with you for a minute (although RTW corsets are far from the devil).  By wearing corsets, we learn about corsets and our own body and how the two interact.  You learn things from wearing a fully-constructed corset for hours or days that you wouldn’t know from having your measurements taken or a mockup fitting.  You learn that your ribs are really squishy – or really not.  You learn if the compressible part of your waist is very short or long.  You learn about the shape of a back curve that puts pressure on your spine, or your favorite hip spring silhouette.  The more experienced corsetieres will know what to look for and how to balance a lot of those things out, but ultimately we are not psychic, especially if you are ordering online and doing a remote fitting and we can’t even touch you.  And that’s why I think wearing ready-to-wear corsets before you launch into the investment of a fully custom corset is not only valid, but valuable.

Model Raven Le Faye in a Pop Antique RTW size “Demoiselle” sweater corset. Photo by Andres Razo.

Ultimately, ready to wear and custom corsets both come in different grades of quality.  No matter which route you choose, do your research.  A handmade RTW corset is very different from one produced in a Chinese sweatshop, of course, but consider this scenario: some bespoke corsetieres may have a RTW line that they rarely sell and therefore haven’t fully developed or prototyped in an adequate range of styles and sizes.  When designing my ready-to-wear line, I did extensive market research into sizing, then used three fit models of the same size with very different body types to test my samples.  I’m still making tweaks here and there (and that ability is one of the great things about being a small designer and doing everything in-house).  Dark Garden built its ready-to-wear line based its exhaustive archive of custom corset patterns.  And a custom corset from a corsetiere with 5 or 10 or 20 years of experience is very different from one made by someone who is just launching their corset business after making a few corsets for his or herself and a few friends.  When you are corset shopping, that is not the time to bargain hunt.

Model Whitney McCabe backstage at a Pop Antique fashion show, in a RTW Vixen. Whitney, who has only occasionally corseted in the past, wore this ribbon corset all evening – it was so comfortable that she didn’t take it off until after our round of post-show drinks, when she had to leave her ensemble with me.

Do you own any ready-to-wear corsets, or only bespoke?  Who makes your favorite ready-to-wear fit?

Marianne

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Pinup 101: 3 Illustrators You Need to Know

If you’re a fan of pinup style, a familiarity with pinup illustration is essential.  Pinup illustration, in my mind, is the canon of the look and feel of the pinup lifestyle.  Three artists in particular stand out as noteworthy, iconic, and legendary within the field of classic pinup artists.

Petty: the Classic Pin-Up Art of George Petty

3.  George Petty

The Petty Girl debuted in the premiere issue of Esquire in 1933, and was a virtually constant attraction for the next 7 years.  Even in his later work you can see George Petty’s Deco beginnings, in the crispness of folds, downcast gazes, thin brows and dewy eyes.  His signatures include simple red line, telephones, ballet point shoes, and thick calves and ankles, which drew him some criticism in the mid 40s as their stylization reached its peak.  Like many an artist, Petty often used a close family member as a model: his daughter, Marjorie.  George Petty was a family man.  His half-rendered minimalization of the Petty Girl at the end of his tenure at Esquire correlated with his success with his better-paid advertising work, for the likes of Jantzen swimsuits and Old Gold Cigarettes.  Petty’s work remained so popular that in 1950 a musical romantic comedy titled The Petty Girlwas made, a non-biographical romp about an illustrator by the name of George Petty.

Alberto Vargas: Works from the Max Vargas Collection

2.  Alberto Vargas

Of the three, I must admit Peruvian-born Alberto Vargas is my personal favorite, as his girls seem the most dignified and elegant.  Like Petty, Vargas got his start airbrushing his father’s photographic work.  There’s no question that Vargas’s true calling was drawing beautiful girls, in one case as girlish as young Shirley Temple, though his showgirl wife often stood in as his personal model in his early days.  In a fit of pique, he famously bragged to his coworkers in Hollywood that he could easily have George Petty’s job if he wanted it, and subsequently put his money where his mouth was, landing the position and drawing pinup girls for Esquire.  They rebranded his name, dropping the “S” and birthing the Varga girl.  The business arrangement went poorly, as Esquire’s strict contract, naively signed by a desperate Vargas, demanded more drawings than he could reasonably produce, and essentially claimed exclusive rights to the Varga name.  Vargas eventually found sanctuary in Playboy where he was much better treated and appreciated.  Vargas’s figures are supremely elegant.  He was devoted to accurate anatomy, though his later work features improbably large and perky breasts.  Most notable of his recurring themes are gauzy, sheer garments, stockings, and hats with large, floppy brims.

Gil Elvgren: All His Glamorous American Pinups

1.  Gil Elvgren

Gil Elvgren, as I mentioned last week, is probably the best known and most archetypal of pinup illustrators.  Within the illustration industry, Elvgren is the one whose technique is most admired.  Elvgren originally intended to be an architect but soon switched gears to painting and devoted himself to it fiercely.  At Chicago’s prestigious American Academy of Art he pushed through his coursework at nearly double speed, then teaching, as well as forming lasting friendships with other artists, notably Al Buell and Joyce Ballantyne, both respected pinup artists in their own right.  As George Petty was getting his start with Esqurie, Gil Elvgren was first hired by Brown & Bigelow, the world’s largest calendar company, then their biggest competitor, Dow, who commissioned a series of pinup portraits.  Eventually he took a salaried position at Brown & Bigelow which allowed him the freedom to continue non-competiting illustration work for magazine stories and advertising gigs, including his long-running work with Coca-Cola.  An Elvgren pinup is significantly more situational than a Petty or Vargas; her environment is not only fully fleshed out but provides the context for her characteristic look of surprise.  While I personally find the endless upskirt gags somewhat demeaning, those skirts are expertly rendered, and the poses are more fluid and graceful than even Vargas, whose work occasionally has a posed stiffness.  Women, environment, clothing, furniture, and animals alike seemingly pose no challenge to Elvgren’s relentless skill.

Which is your favorite of the three illustrators above?  Do you have another favorite not listed?  He may not be as well-known, but my own artist of choice is Fritz Willis.

Marianne

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Undressing the Pinup Look

Gil Elvgren: All His Glamorous American Pinups, my reference text for this article.

Pinup style, despite its classic vintage air, has a certain timelessness about it. The look has a niche following that ebbs and flows but changes slowly and dies seemingly never. I sat down to dissect what styling elements really make up the archetypal pinup look, with a little help from Gil Elvgren. Gil Elvgren is probably the best known, and most quintessential, pinup artist (more on that next week!), so I took my cues from an anthology of his paintings published by Taschen.  The following is an analysis of fashion in classic pinup art.

Simple, classic pinup bra and panty

A simple bralette is a surprisingly popular look in pinup illustrations.

The pinup bra is not beribboned and lacy, nor is it a bullet bra. No, what I saw the most of was simple bralettes: soft, often triangular cups; a clean, simple shape. Lucky for us, bralettes have been gaining in popularity over the past couple of years. Look for a simple black, sheer, or lace style and pair it with anything high waisted. As far as panties and bottoms go, the rise is virtually always on the natural waist. However, it’s not sleek, fitted briefs that were the stars: fitted or loose tap shorts were by far the most prolific style. For a daywear version of the same look, you could pair a bandeau or cropped blouse with sleeves with a pair of high-waist shorts or trousers with contrast detailing.

Garters and stockings, of course, are a must-have. Four garters, rather than the contemporary six, used to be the standard. Stockings were fully-fashioned in sheer brown or black.

Floor-length sheer negligee, a pinup classic (illustrated in a vaguely surreal non-pinup setting)

For loungewear, you can’t go wrong with sheer, floor-length negligee. A more youthful look would be a lightweight or semi-sheer tunic-length nightie (just long enough to cover your rear), flared out from the shoulders, covering the torso to the pit of the throat, such as the one on the cover of the Elvgren book at the top of the page. (This, of course, looks particularly fetching when backlit from a cozily roaring hearth, casting a clear and curvy silhouette through the thin material.)

Bustier with decorative front lacing detail.

If you’re wanting a bustier, corset, or basque, look for one with lace panels at the center front, or front lacing detail.  You probably won’t find one quite as cleavage-y as those illustrated, though.

The pinup color palette is heavy on black, white, and primary colors (with black and white, of course, being the favorite for lingerie).  Springy floral and pastel tones are also popular.  Prints are generally limited to floral motifs and classic stripes and gingham.

Lastly, with regard to what one would wear on top of all this lovely lingerie, the silhouettes are surprisingly modest in coverage, yet still figure conscious.  Dresses or blouses might still have sleeves and modest necklines, even peter pan collars, but are well fitted to the bust and waist.  Skirts are full, roughly knee-length, and, apparently, always caught on something.  A sash or belt further highlights the nipped in natural waist of a vintage figure.  The summery version of the look might feature a low, scooped neckline, spaghetti straps, and fit gathers under the bustline.

If you have any questions or comments, please share your thoughts in the discussion below!

Marianne

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Eco-Designer Spotlight: Underprotection Lingerie Review

Sigrun body by Underprotection
Photo: Lauren Luck
Model: Victoria Dagger

When I got sent the press release for Underprotection, a Danish sustainable lingerie and loungewear brand, they caught my eye.  I was immediately impressed by their chic lookbook with beautiful photography – none of the hippie granola cliche of sustainability.  Upon perusing their website, I found that their commitment to sustainability seems to have a solid foundation, using not only eco-friendly materials, but also using sustainable labor practices.

Pamela set by Underprotection.
Photo: Lauren Luck
Model: Victoria Dagger

A representative from Underprotection was kind enough to send me two sample sets of my own choosing for review.  Their catalog images didn’t seem to do the styles justice, but between the web catalog and the lookbook photos I chose my favorites out of a lot of cute options.  When Underprotection’s package arrived for me, I continued to be impressed.  A hard copy of the gorgeous lookbook was included, and information about the fibers used in each style was attached to the hang tag.  Silhouette-wise, the Pamela bra and brief set is very different from Sigrun body, though both happen to be composed primarily of bamboo.  Now, bamboo is admittedly semi-controversial as an eco-fiber – the plant itself is wonderful, but the process of turning it into filament is chemical-heavy, but there’s no denying it does make for a wonderful fabric.  Anyway, I like to test new wardrobe and put it through its paces by subjecting it to a photoshoot.  Special thanks to Lauren Luck for the extra-special film photography.

Pamela set by Underprotection.
Photo: Lauren Luck
Model: Victoria Dagger

Pamela set
Style-wise, while the halter-strap is very cute, it is a little impractical for daily wear, but I just can’t resist a good bralette.  The fit was comfortable, with about as much support as you’d expect from a soft cup bra.  The matching panties were also comfy – they had a more relaxed fit than I usually go for, yet it seemed appropriate for the style.  The waistline was a smidge low for my tastes, but the fabric stretchy enough that I could pull it up to my natural waist.  The keyhole at the back is a cute little touch.  Overall, I thought this was a great set to make me feel both comfortable and sexy.

Pamela set by Underprotection.
Photo: Lauren Luck
Model: Victoria Dagger

Pamela set by Underprotection.
Photo: Lauren Luck
Model: Victoria Dagger

Pamela set by Underprotection.
Photo: Lauren Luck
Model: Victoria Dagger

Pamela set by Underprotection.
Photo: Lauren Luck
Model: Victoria Dagger

Sigrun body
I was pretty curious about the Sigrun body – while I’m addicted to rompers, the minute you call it a “bodysuit” or “teddy,” somehow I get these weird 80s-high-legline-cheap-lace pictures in my head and lose all interest.  The menswear reference and stark black and white fabrication of the Sigrun body was just too good to deny, though.  I did find the super-duper-extra-sheer crotch, with no liner, a slightly odd choice: for the photos, I had to wear a lightweight pair of nude high-waist panties.  I think it would make me self-conscious enough to not make it a loungewear go-to, much as I’d like it to be, but I’ll be definitely wearing it as a daywear piece.  Again, I love the combination of the comfortable fit with a stylish design.

Sigrun body by Underprotection
Photo: Lauren Luck
Model: Victoria Dagger

Sigrun body by Underprotection
Photo: Lauren Luck
Model: Victoria Dagger

Sigrun body by Underprotection
Photo: Lauren Luck
Model: Victoria Dagger

Sigrun body by Underprotection
Photo: Lauren Luck
Model: Victoria Dagger

Sigrun body by Underprotection
Photo: Lauren Luck
Model: Victoria Dagger

Sigrun body by Underprotection.
Photo: Lauren Luck
Model: Victoria Dagger

Final thoughts
Four stars.  For the most part, the stitching was very clean, although I did notice that the halter strap seemed a bit strained in its set-in on one side.  I have a sneaking suspicion that I’ll have to tack it back in place at some point in the future.  I love the drape and feel of both the lightweight bamboo satin and the soft bamboo mesh (!!).  The colors/color blocking are utterly charming.  I think Underprotection is a brand to keep your eye on, even if you don’t have a particular interest in sustainable design.  Who doesn’t love clothes that both look and feel good when you wear them?

What do you think about the sets shown above and the other styles on Underprotection’s website?  Share your thoughts in the comments below.

Marianne

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Indie Lingerie Boutique Spotlight: Jenette Bras on Melrose

“Jenette bras” sign by night.

The lovely Jenette herself, behind the front counter.

Last night I had the privilege of doing a trunk show (with Dark Garden) over at Jenette Bras on Melrose Ave., and I have to say that I was instantly enamored of the boutique.  Jenette is a full bust specialty shop, carrying an impressive array of supportive frillies in cups D-K, and bands 30-44.

I fell slightly in love with this bra. Have I mentioned I wish I was part of Jenette’s demographic?

Now, to be honest – I am not Jenette’s target demographic – there were probably only a couple of European 30D bras that would’ve fit my American 30C bust.  But after spending the evening there, I certainly wished I was!

Beautiful display case of bras in the front room.

New arrivals for February, and fancy fancy stockings!

Jenette’s mascot, an antique dressform called “Viv” (for Vivienne, I believe it was).

The design of the space is super cute, chic, and inviting.  The layout is inspired by the antique corset factory look, and you know I love that!  There’s a spacious front room with some merchandising displays and a rack of non-bra negligee (teddies and the like), as well as the register.  Then you step back into the fitting room, which has three very spacious stalls and more bra stock displayed.  The very back room holds their tidily organized backstock; an impressive array.

The “boyfriend chair” in the front room, complete with vintage Playboys – turns out, you really CAN read them for the articles!

Client entrance to the fitting room. This Dollymop by Dark Garden underbust corset conveniently was a perfect match for the navy polka dot set already on the mannequin.

Staff entrance to fitting room.

Stylewise, I saw a lot of beautiful things, from familiar and respected brands, such as Simone Perele and Marlies Dekkers.  “I only buy the bright and pretty colors,” Jenette said.  “If they want a beige bra, they can shop somewhere else.”

Front room display and merchandising.

Front window merchandising – I love that red underbust shaper slip.

Merchandise display in the fitting room. And me in the mirror.

At the trunk show, I met several of Jenette’s clients, and I was impressed by – well, their assets, of course, but also their loyalty to Jenette Bras.  “All of my bras come from here, except for the three I bought in Jerusalem before I knew about Jenette,” said one client.  Jenette keeps handwritten client records of each woman’s baseline size and purchase history, as well as notes about bras they liked but didn’t pick up that day.  I love that kind of customer service. Some clients have five sheets of records stapled together because they’re such regular shoppers with Jenette.

I love customer service like this client purchase record sheet.

The shop staff were all extremely friendly, and they picked up on corset fitting very quickly, which demonstrated to me that their eye for fit is very keen.  Dressing rooms all state an “as long as it takes” fitting policy, suggesting that you stand, sit, or do jumping jacks – whatever it takes! – to make sure the fit of a bra is working for you.  Jenette (who, incidentally, was absolutely lovely) told me that each time a new style comes in, she and the shop girls all try it on so they can see how it fits compared to other styles from that brand and other brands in the same size.

Press clipping in the front window.

Front window – Quality bras and lingerie for well-endowed women. Bra fitting specialists.  No appointments necessary.

Comprehensive, “as long as it takes” fitting policy.

All in all, I was really impressed by the space and attitude.  Everything was done in a very thoughtful way, down to the retro-style illustrations on their branded pamphlets, and the team at Jenette’s was lovely to work with.

Pretty pretty pamphlets along the front counter.

Jenette Bras even designed us a cute little flyer for the Dark Garden trunk show! What friendly hosts!

Jenette Bras also has a new location in Pasadena, and you may recognize their name from their guest post, “What Should Busty Ladies Look for in a Bra?“

Marianne

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