Posts in category "lingerie resources"

Indie Lingerie Boutique Spotlight: Jenette Bras on Melrose

“Jenette bras” sign by night.

The lovely Jenette herself, behind the front counter.

Last night I had the privilege of doing a trunk show (with Dark Garden) over at Jenette Bras on Melrose Ave., and I have to say that I was instantly enamored of the boutique.  Jenette is a full bust specialty shop, carrying an impressive array of supportive frillies in cups D-K, and bands 30-44.

I fell slightly in love with this bra. Have I mentioned I wish I was part of Jenette’s demographic?

Now, to be honest – I am not Jenette’s target demographic – there were probably only a couple of European 30D bras that would’ve fit my American 30C bust.  But after spending the evening there, I certainly wished I was!

Beautiful display case of bras in the front room.

New arrivals for February, and fancy fancy stockings!

Jenette’s mascot, an antique dressform called “Viv” (for Vivienne, I believe it was).

The design of the space is super cute, chic, and inviting.  The layout is inspired by the antique corset factory look, and you know I love that!  There’s a spacious front room with some merchandising displays and a rack of non-bra negligee (teddies and the like), as well as the register.  Then you step back into the fitting room, which has three very spacious stalls and more bra stock displayed.  The very back room holds their tidily organized backstock; an impressive array.

The “boyfriend chair” in the front room, complete with vintage Playboys – turns out, you really CAN read them for the articles!

Client entrance to the fitting room. This Dollymop by Dark Garden underbust corset conveniently was a perfect match for the navy polka dot set already on the mannequin.

Staff entrance to fitting room.

Stylewise, I saw a lot of beautiful things, from familiar and respected brands, such as Simone Perele and Marlies Dekkers.  “I only buy the bright and pretty colors,” Jenette said.  “If they want a beige bra, they can shop somewhere else.”

Front room display and merchandising.

Front window merchandising – I love that red underbust shaper slip.

Merchandise display in the fitting room. And me in the mirror.

At the trunk show, I met several of Jenette’s clients, and I was impressed by – well, their assets, of course, but also their loyalty to Jenette Bras.  “All of my bras come from here, except for the three I bought in Jerusalem before I knew about Jenette,” said one client.  Jenette keeps handwritten client records of each woman’s baseline size and purchase history, as well as notes about bras they liked but didn’t pick up that day.  I love that kind of customer service. Some clients have five sheets of records stapled together because they’re such regular shoppers with Jenette.

I love customer service like this client purchase record sheet.

The shop staff were all extremely friendly, and they picked up on corset fitting very quickly, which demonstrated to me that their eye for fit is very keen.  Dressing rooms all state an “as long as it takes” fitting policy, suggesting that you stand, sit, or do jumping jacks – whatever it takes! – to make sure the fit of a bra is working for you.  Jenette (who, incidentally, was absolutely lovely) told me that each time a new style comes in, she and the shop girls all try it on so they can see how it fits compared to other styles from that brand and other brands in the same size.

Press clipping in the front window.

Front window – Quality bras and lingerie for well-endowed women. Bra fitting specialists.  No appointments necessary.

Comprehensive, “as long as it takes” fitting policy.

All in all, I was really impressed by the space and attitude.  Everything was done in a very thoughtful way, down to the retro-style illustrations on their branded pamphlets, and the team at Jenette’s was lovely to work with.

Pretty pretty pamphlets along the front counter.

Jenette Bras even designed us a cute little flyer for the Dark Garden trunk show! What friendly hosts!

Jenette Bras also has a new location in Pasadena, and you may recognize their name from their guest post, “What Should Busty Ladies Look for in a Bra?

Corset Care 101: How to Store Your Corset

Corsets: betcha can’t have just one – but how do you store them all?
Model: Victoria Dagger; Photo: Joel Aron; Corset: Dark Garden

With the winter holiday season officially over, many of us are sorting through the accumulated rubble of our various gifts received and parties thrown.  As for me, I also have been in the process of unpacking from my first move in four years, so as well as picking up a season’s worth of cocktail dresses from my dressing room floor, I have to sort and put away all my regular clothes, including my collection of corsets.  There are several different ways to store a corset; today I’ll cover four basic ways, plus a bonus decorative storage method that I’ve always secretly wanted to try.

Hmmm… wherever shall I put all these corsets??
Model: Victoria Dagger; Photo: Sam Guss; Corset: Sparklewren

1. Laced and laid flat in a drawer
This is perhaps the most simple and obvious solution.  Between wearings, tighten the laces on your corset until its gap is fully closed.  (Put one of the busk loops behind the stud side of the busk while fastening the others like normal; the tension will keep the busk from opening itself.)  Tie off the excess lacing into a bow and then pull it straight up, tucking it inside the corset at the center back.  Lay your corset flat in a drawer, stacking your collection but being careful not to place anything adjacent to a delicate fabric (such as a lace overlay) that might snag it (including the busk of another corset).  You may also fold your corsets in thirds if your drawer is the wrong proportion for them to lay flat.  Depending on the shape distribution and boning pattern, some corsets may not fold well.  Alternatively, you can place them semi-upright in a bin instead of flat in a drawer.

Placing one of the busk loops inside the corset will keep the busk fastened for storage.

Corsets laced shut, folded, and stored semi-upright in a bin at Dark Garden Unique Corsetry.

2. Rolled up and stored in a drawer or bin
With your corset unlaced, roll your corset up around itself, starting with the stud side of the busk and leaving the fashion fabric facing outwards.  When you get to the lacing gap, keep rolling but make sure you catch the ribbon loops at that point.  As with the previous method, the boning placement may affect how well your corset rolls, but the rolling shouldn’t cause any damage to the bones, even for long-term storage.
If you are concerned about your fabric getting dirty or abraded (white corsets, lace overlays, rhinestone detailing, etc.), you may wish to protect it by then wrapping it in a corset bag, pillow case, or perhaps even the leg cut from a pair of nylons.  I wouldn’t recommend storing all of your corsets wrapped if you have a lot of them, as it’ll be hard to tell them all apart if you can’t see the fabric clearly.

3. Hanging from its laces on a hanger
This is how most of my corsets are stored.  You can have your corsets laced or unlaced for this method, but I like to leave them unlaced because then it’s easier to get back into them.  Simply flop your corset over the bar on a hanger so it’s suspended by its laces.  Use a sturdy hanger as the weight of the corset can cause bowing or drooping.  I like to use tiered slack hangers, as closet space is at a high premium for me.  The boning pattern makes no difference with this method; however, protecting more fragile fabrics is less straightforward.  Though I’ve yet to try it, you could place a piece of fabric over the corset in question, like a dropcloth, perhaps pinning a couple of places to keep it from sliding right off every time you go for the adjacent corset or article of clothing.

I like to store my corsets hanging from their laces on a tiered slacks hanger.

4. Laced closed and hanging facing out
Using the busk trick from the first storage method, lace your corset fully shut and tie off the waist loops.  You can tuck the bow into the top of the corset as above, or wrap it around the neck of your hanger.
Method A:  As well as the hanger, you’ll also need some ribbon (probably about two feet should be sufficient) and two safety pins, such as the tiny gold ones that come with a lot of clothing and lingerie.  Cut your ribbon in half (burn the ends if you don’t want it to fray), then fold it in half.  Pin through both layers of ribbon (on the cut end) to the lining of your corset at the side seam to create your own hanger loops.  If your corset is too wide to hang well this way, try pinning the ribbon ends separately to front and back, like a spaghetti strap closer to the princess line.
Method B: Use a skirt hanger, protecting your fabric from the grips with padding made from scraps of fabric or wider ribbon, such as a soft cotton twill.  (Try not to use the padding pieces each time you unclip your corset!)  This method works best for corsets that are roughly the same height all the way across; less well for sweetheart and low-back styles, particularly in larger sizes.
This will create a nice boutique-like feel, particularly if you use high quality, matching hangers.

Corsets clipped to skirt hangers, with padding protecting their fabric from the clips. Dark Garden Unique Corsetry.

When storing your corsets flat (in a drawer or bin, or on a hanger), tighten the laces fully, tie off your “bunny ears,” and tuck them into the top of the corset as shown to keep them tidy and out of the way.

5. Displayed proudly on your wall
I’ve always thought a beautiful and clever way to both store and display a few corsets would be to hang them on my way, like pieces of art.  Follow the directions to hang a corset laced shut, and choose an attractive hanger (such as these padded hangers) from which to hang it.  Then, find a frame that is large enough for the corset and the hanger both.  You won’t need the matboard or the glass – check vintage and thrift stores for bargains on frames missing these components.  Tap in a nail or coat hook where you’d like the top of the hanger to be, hold up the frame for placement, then add a second nail above for the frame.
One warning: leaving your corsets hanging for too long could of course result in them getting dirty or discolored, so be careful about where they’re placed, check them regularly to see if they need cleaning, and perhaps rotate the display every so often.  This is not a long-term storage solution.

You can find some great frames without glass at thrift stores – perfect for displaying a three-dimensional piece like a corset!

How do you store your corsets?  Do you have a method not listed above?  Please share in the comments.

So You Want to Be a Lingerie Designer: 3 Amazing Online Community Resources

A flossed corset by Pop Antique, as shot by Karolina Marek on Victoria Dagger. Much of my corsetmaking knowledge comes from researching via various online communities.

This being November, many Americans such as myself are pondering those things which we have to be grateful.  Trite though it may be, I knew I wanted to touch upon it in my column this month.  One thing I am continually grateful for on a daily basis is being a 21st century woman, regardless of my nostalgic admiration for things antiquated and retro.  I love that we have the freedom to enjoy and embrace these old fashioned aesthetics without being obligated to adhere to (sexist) ideals of the day, and that we can pick and choose when and where we want to employ these aesthetics, mixing and matching old and new with utter abandon according to our personal taste and daily whims.  I love modern medicine and technology, which brings me to the crux of the matter (you knew there was a point in there somewhere!): I love the internet and its infinite capacity for connection and knowledge both.  With that in mind, here are three amazing online communities for various skill levels.  As I am, primarily, a corsetmaker, there is naturally a bit of an emphasis on that field.

Corset interior with floating modesty panel by Electra Designs, founder of the Learn to Make Corsets Like a Pro group on Facebook.

Learn to Make Corsets Like a Pro
A Facebook group founded by Alexis Black (of Electra Designs), which she created to go with her successful Kickstarter for corsetmaking resources.  The community is open to members of all skill levels and backgrounds, and a typical post will be either a specific question regarding construction and troubleshooting of corset construction, or merely an enthusiastic update on the status of a current project.  Alexis herself will regularly chip in to answer questions, and overall the group is very responsive and helpful, allowing one to get a reading on several opinions and possible solutions.

Foundations Revealed is an amazing subscription-based resource for anyone interested in learning to make foundation garments, particularly corsets.

Foundations Revealed
When you’re ready to kick it up a notch, Cathy Hay’s Foundations Revealed has you covered.  While there’s a heavy emphasis on corsetry, they also have articles on making girdles, bras, and even bum rolls!  Foundations Revealed is a subscription-based site, and as they add a new article every week I find it well worth the money for the variety of the articles and authors.  There are articles appropriate to every skill level, from basics to complicated experimental designs.  As well as a wealth of information on various patterning and construction techniques, they also have articles on the topic of running a business.  If you’re not sure about committing to $12 per month, sight unseen, check out their selection of free articles.  Foundations Revealed also recently launched its own forum.

The Lingerie Addict herself, Cora Harrington, founded a safe and private Facebook group for Independent Lingerie Professionals.

Independent Lingerie Professionals
Founded by The Lingerie Addict herself, Cora Harrington, Independent Lingerie Professionals is a small, private community for independent lingerie professionals, from designers and retailers to boudoir photographers, media outlets, and beyond.  If not invited directly, you must be vetted by group moderators for admission, and you must stay actively engaged to remain in the group.  Within the community, we talk about a range of topics: When presented with a new or particularly challenging situation, we have an amazing community to ask for advice, but we also share articles about lingerie/the industry, social media utilization, etc.  Even those posts that aren’t directly relevant to me, I find interesting as they give insight to other facets of the industry.

Are you an indie designer?  Do you participate in any of these communities?  What other online resources do you find valuable?  Tell us in the comments!

15 Lingerie Retailers to Follow on Instagram

As per my post in August, 8 Corsetieres to Follow on Instagram, I am obsessed with, and addicted to, Instagram.  Since I’ve been having no end of computer troubles lately, needless to say, my dependency on my phone (and Instagram) hasn’t abated. 

This month’s post features a whopping 15 retailers posting daily pretties, providing insight to styles, trends, merchandising, photoshoots, and other behind-the-scenes action.  With a lot of ground to cover, I’ll mostly let the users’ photos (and, where provided, bios) speak for themselves.  As before, if you don’t have the app, Webstagram links are provided for your viewing pleasure.

Designer lingerie at Coco de Mer.

@coco_de_meruk
Coco de Mer – http://www.coco-de-mer.com/

Wall display at Derriere de Soie.

@derrieredesoie
derriere de soie cville – www.silkybottom.com

Devil May Care is one of my favorites on this list, in large part for the personality infused in their posts.  Be warned, their feed is red hot!

@devilmaycarelingerie
Anastasia – Lingerie loving sisters in upstate NY hand-picking life’s necessary indulgences for you. Devil May Care: It’s a state of mind… xx!

Delicious Marlies Dekkers bra and thong featured on @fairefroufrou’s Instagram.

@fairefroufrou
Alison Rubke – Owner of luxury lingerie boutique Faire Frou Frou & blog Frou Frou Fashionista

A Fig Leaves photoshoot in progress.

@figleaveshome
The ultimate online destination for your lingerie, swimwear, shapewear & nightwear needs. Boasting cup sizes AA – K.

Close-up shot of bra hardware at Forty Winks.

@fortywinks
Meredith Donaldson – http://www.shopfortywinks.com

Wall o’ colorful panties at Journelle.

@journellelingerie
Journelle Lingerie – Lingerie enthusiasts and connoisseurs offering lingerie for the modern women.

Merchandising display at La Petite Coquette / The Little Flirt.

@lapetitecoquettenyc
It’s Time to STOP wearing underwear and START wearing Lingerie!

Lille Boutique: silk and lace and ruffles, oh my!

@lilleboutique
Lille Boutique – Lover of fine lingerie, kabuki, silk stockings, ballet, vintage kimonos, high heels, art deco, literary heroines, new wave cinema & all things French.

Lingerie sets and accessories at Linea Intima.

@lineaintimalingerie
Linea Intima – Renowned for expert bra-fitting consultations & a selection of the most sought after lingerie brands from around the world. Sizes from 30-44, A-I.

The Bordello showroom.

@madamebordello
From London’s finest Lingerie Boutique in Shoreditch to private Bethnal Green Showroom.

Okay – since My Lingerie Stylist is, in fact, a stylist and not a retailer, I thought I’d make fair by including a picture of her at her favorite local boutique.

@mylingeriestylist
Bex – Professional lingerie stylist & owner of The Fitting Room. I specialize in bra fittings & foundations, as well as bridal, event and styling services. Note: I know, she’s not a retailer, but My Lingerie Stylist made more sense on this list than any others I have planned.

Say hello to divine designer lingerie at Secrets from Your Sister.

@secretsfromyoursister
Toronto’s best bra fitting boutique.

I, for one, still use my What Katie Did tote from my trip to the UK last year.

@whatkatiedidldn
What Katie Did London Boutique - Faux vintage lingerie, corsets & nylons inspired by the silver screen sirens of the 40′s & 50′s in the heart of Portobello Road – London UK.

Coordinating bralettes and panties in Cosabella’s private label boutique.

@shopcosabella
Official Cosabella

And there you have it!  A veritable tour de force of lingerie boutiques on Instagram.  Keep reading my articles here on The Lingerie Addict for Instagram revues of lingerie designers, more corsetieres, and pinup girls. 

What’d you think?  Who’s feed is your favorite?  Did I miss someone?  Please share your thoughts in the comments!

Corset Care 101: 3 Reasons to Unlace Before Unbusking Your Corset

Elisa Berlin unlacing a Pop Antique corset, as photographed by Marianne Faulkner

Shien Lee in an Electra Designs corset, as photographed by Christopher Mc Lallen, via Electra Designs on Facebook

All corsets wearers know (or should know, anyway) that they need to loosen their corset laces before unfastening their busk, but it’s rarely explained why, beyond the basic “it’s bad for the corset.”  I mentioned this in passing in the first post of this series, How to Care for a Corset, Part 1: What to Do While Wearing Your Corset, but saved the full rationale because I think it’s important enough to merit its own post.  If you’re like me, those kind of tips stick much better if I understand the reasoning behind them.  So without further ado, here are my top three reasons to unlace first.

Victoria Dagger in a Blooddrop corset, as photographed by IGP Photo

1) The Immediate
It’s going to be a lot easier to take your corset off if the laces are loosened.  Actually, unless your corset is too big for you, it’ll be virtually impossible to unfasten all the busk studs.  If your corset has a swing hook closure or a zipper, you can still take it off, but be careful that you don’t catch your skin in the zipper.

Kali in a Dark Garden corset, as photographed by Marianne Faulkner

Victoria Dagger in a Pop Antique corset, as photographed by Samantha Guss

2) The Pragmatic
You’re going to need those laces loose next time you want to put your corset on anyway, right?  Many corset neophytes ask if, once adjusted, they can just leave the laces tied for subsequent wearings.  The lacing process may seem arduous the first time around, but just like learning to tie your shoe laces you’ll find it soon enough becomes simple and automatic.  The tightening of the laces is what gives a corset its superb shaping ability, so skimping on lacing-in is out of the question.

Victoria Dagger in a Dark Garden corset, as photographed by Thomas Landon

3) The Critical
The number one reason to loosen your laces is because you risk irreparably damaging the busk.  With each busk stud you unhook, you are putting that much more pressure on the remaining studs.  Eventually, the studs may pop off from the metal bone on which they’re anchored.
Most corsets are constructed from the center front out, which means that any damage along that seam line is the hardest to repair (if it’s even possible at all).  It’s not a case of just restoring the missing stud; the entire busk (the single most expensive hardware component) will need to be replaced, which involves reconstructing either the front panel or literally the entire corset.  So while you may still be able to wear your corset as long as you’re only missing one busk stud, you’ve created damage that is both easy to avoid and very difficult, if not impossible, to repair.

Sara Cecil in a Pop Antique corset as photographed by Jesse Alford

If you’ve been given another explanation for why unlacing is so important or have any firsthand accounts of busk damage, I’d love to hear in the comments.

Corset Care 101: What to Do While Wearing a Corset

Photo: Sam Guss, Corset: Dark Garden, Model: Victoria Dagger

So you want to wear a corset, and make sure you take good care of it to prolong its life.  There are a few steps you can take during and immediately after wearing your corset to minimize wear and the need for costly cleanings.

One of the most basic pieces of corset care advice is to wear your corset with another layer between it and your skin.  The reason for this is that your sweat and the natural oils in your skin rub off onto the lining.  Ultimately it’s less wear on the corset to avoid both the sweat and oils, and the frequent cleanings it’ll lead to.

A camisole like this makes a good corset liner. To wear with an overbust, tuck the straps in. Trousers are optional. Photo: Antonio Abadia, Corset: Electra Designs, Model: Victoria Dagger

How practical wearing a lining is will depend heavily on your outfit: if it’s a waist cincher or underbust, you may already be wearing it as an outerwear piece and therefore ahead of the game.  (Know that the garment underneath will get creased from the compression.)  A sweetheart corset can be worn as a top by itself.  If you’re wearing your corset as a foundation piece, the weather may not permit an additional layer between it and your skin.

Originally a “chemise” would’ve been worn next to the skin under the corset; today, you can wear a simple camisole or tshirt.  Your corsetiere may even sell tube tops fitted to be worn under the corset with no straps or sleeves to interfere with your styling choices.  The fabric should be lightweight, breathable, and easy to wash: a  t-shirt jersey type fabric (cotton or a cotton-spandex blend) is a safe bet.  A rayon-type fabric (rayon, modal, bamboo rayon, etc) would also be very comfortable, though more difficult to care for.

To keep laces secure and out of the way, tuck the ends into the bottom of your corset. Photo: Joel Aron, Corset: Dark Garden, Model: Kristin.

One mistake many corset wearers make is wearing their laces tied around their waist.  This actually abrades the fabric of the corset.  If you don’t like to leave your laces danging, separate the “bunny ears” bow at the waist in two and tuck the lace ends under the bottom of your corset.  On a related note, when it’s time to take your corset off, always remember to loosen the laces before unfastening the busk.

Always remember to loosen your laces before unfastening the busk. Photo: Marianne Faulkner, Corset: Pop Antique, Model: Elisa Berlin.

If you find yourself needing to replace the lacing itself, polyester ribbon can be purchased from any fabric or craft store.  Even if your corset wasn’t originally laced with ribbon, the polyester actually makes for very strong lacing.  Measure how long the original laces were, and adjust if you felt they were too long or too short.  It’s always easier to cut them shorter, though, so it’s safer to err on the side of “too long,” otherwise it may become difficult to put your corset on.  Buy ribbon that is at least 1/4” wide; 5/8” or wider ribbon creates a more sumptuous look but also adds considerable bulk.

Drape your corset over the back of a chair to air out after wearings.

After you take your corset off, let it air out, breathe, and relax.  Drape it over a hanger or the back of a chair.  The fibers will relax back into shape, and, well, the fresh air will do it good, scent-wise.  If you’re waist training or participating in an event that calls for several consecutive days of  corset wearing, try to alternate corsets.  Like your bras or shoes, your corset will break down noticeably faster if you don’t give it any time off.  The fabric, boning, and laces are all under a considerable amount of physical stress while you’re wearing it, after all.  You can also delicately wipe down the lining of your corset with a damp cloth after you take it off, to help gently remove any oils or sweat that are on the surface.

Photo: Chris Gaede, Corset & Ensemble: Dark Garden, Model: Victoria Dagger

Stay tuned for future installments on storing and cleaning your corsets!  Let me know in the comments if you have other corset maintenance questions or ideas you’d like to see addressed in future posts.

Favorite Blogs

Lingerie Blogs:
A Slip of a Girl
Directory Sexy: International Lingerie Directory 
Flirty Skin 
Frankufotos Lingerie 
Frou Frou Fashionista – Luxury Lingerie Blog
Guilty Pleasures
HQ Models 
Knickers Blog
La Petite Coquette 
Lingerie Blog
Lingerie Blog by Petite Coquette
Lingerie Briefs Blog 
Lingerie Planet 
Lingerie Talk
Love, Frederick’s: Frederick’s of Hollywood’s Blog 
Pretty Little Underthings  
Theda Bara Vintage 
The Lingerie Journal
The Lingerie Post
Threnody in Velvet

    Fashion Blogs:
    Bobbins and Bombshells
    Diary of a Vintage Girl 
    Esme and the lane way
    Feaverish Photography Blog
    Pandora’s Box
    The Budget Fashionista

    the cherry blossom girl
    The Girl Inside
    The Mysterious Life of the Metropolitan Housewife
    Too Many Tights
    Vixen Vintage
    Voyages en Rose