Posts in category "lingerie design"

In Defense of Ready-to-Wear Corsets

Victoria Dagger in a RTW “Vamp” corset by Pop Antique. Photo by Karolina Marek.

Let me start this post with two disclaimers:
1) I love corsets.
2) A good fit is absolutely key in a corset.

But I don’t think that fully custom is the only way to achieve a good fit in a corset.

Victoria Dagger in a Pop Antique “Flirt” RTW corset, which has a fit comparable to the Valentine shown below.  Victoria is 5’3″.  Photo by Andres Razo.

(Bonus disclaimer: I’m not talking about the kind of ready-to-wear corset that is sweatshop mass-produced with no shape and/or flimsy plastic bones, etc.  As far as I’m concerned, those aren’t even really corsets.)

I touched upon this a bit in a previous post, What (You Didn’t Know) to Look for in a Corset, but I’d like to go into it in more detail.  Unusual for an independent, handmade corsetiere, I actually love to specialize in a ready-to-wear fit rather than bespoke.  My line is called Pop Antique, and to me, there’s a really exciting challenge in creating a single corset pattern that fits an assortment of bodies.  It really pushes me to think about the body, what works, what doesn’t, what has the most wiggle room, etc.

Ulorin Vex in a Pop Antique RTW “Valentine” corset, paired with latex leggings and bolero.  Ulorin is 5’9″ tall.

Now, don’t get me wrong: this is not an article about how custom corsets are redundant and a waste of money, by any stretch.  The going theory is that because RTW corsets try to fit everyone, they actually fit no one, because the percentage of people with truly standard proportions are so small.

Victoria Dagger in a Dollymop for Dark Garden RTW bridal corset. Photo by Chris Gaede.

And maybe that last part is true.  Maybe no one is the ancient Greek ideal of proportion in every single limb.  But most corsets fit only from mid-hip to just above or below the bust, so it doesn’t matter as much if you have short legs or a long pelvis or long arms or broad shoulders or a short neck or a big forehead or any number of other minor differences in proportion.  And in my experience, even if you do have a proportion difference in your torso that affects corset fit, it is often something that can be addressed with one or two simple pattern changes, if it’s not corrected by a slight variation in the lacing gap.  Most commonly, the top or bottom edge will need to be raised or lowered to accommodate torso length, or there will be a circumference change to the rib or hip.

Model and client Elisa Berlin wears her 17″ Ingenue corset by Pop Antique – this shape was achieved with only two pattern changes from the ready-to-wear shape. Photo by Jon Bean Hastings.

The fact of the matter is, ready-to-wear, when designed well, is designed to fit as much of that corsetiere’s target market as possible.  Key to that train of thought are the words “target market” and “designed well.”  Just as each corsetiere has their own aesthetic in terms of color, embellishment, and fabrication, each corsetiere has a different silhouette ideal in their mind, is particularly sensitive to certain fit or comfort issues, and has a different demographic forming their local client base.  If a ready-to-wear fit isn’t right for you, it may just be that the corsetiere’s ready-to-wear line is designed for a different body type or standing posture.  It doesn’t mean their patterns are bad or that your body is shaped weirdly.  And if you are tied to working with that particular corsetmaker (we appreciate your interest and loyalty!), then that’s a great time to talk about pattern adjustments or bespoke fit.

Victoria Dagger in a custom Dark Garden “Grable” corset. Though Dark Garden typically uses flat steels throughout, this fashion show piece was made with spiral steels in deference to Victoria’s preference: having worn many ready-to-wear corsets, it didn’t take long to find out that flat steels bruise her rib cage. © Mask Photo.

You may be wondering if the bespoke corset wouldn’t be a better choice anyway – why not just go for full custom for the first time, and every time?  I want to play devil’s advocate with you for a minute (although RTW corsets are far from the devil).  By wearing corsets, we learn about corsets and our own body and how the two interact.  You learn things from wearing a fully-constructed corset for hours or days that you wouldn’t know from having your measurements taken or a mockup fitting.  You learn that your ribs are really squishy – or really not.  You learn if the compressible part of your waist is very short or long.  You learn about the shape of a back curve that puts pressure on your spine, or your favorite hip spring silhouette.  The more experienced corsetieres will know what to look for and how to balance a lot of those things out, but ultimately we are not psychic, especially if you are ordering online and doing a remote fitting and we can’t even touch you.  And that’s why I think wearing ready-to-wear corsets before you launch into the investment of a fully custom corset is not only valid, but valuable.

Model Raven Le Faye in a Pop Antique RTW size “Demoiselle” sweater corset. Photo by Andres Razo.

Ultimately, ready to wear and custom corsets both come in different grades of quality.  No matter which route you choose, do your research.  A handmade RTW corset is very different from one produced in a Chinese sweatshop, of course, but consider this scenario: some bespoke corsetieres may have a RTW line that they rarely sell and therefore haven’t fully developed or prototyped in an adequate range of styles and sizes.  When designing my ready-to-wear line, I did extensive market research into sizing, then used three fit models of the same size with very different body types to test my samples.  I’m still making tweaks here and there (and that ability is one of the great things about being a small designer and doing everything in-house).  Dark Garden built its ready-to-wear line based its exhaustive archive of custom corset patterns.  And a custom corset from a corsetiere with 5 or 10 or 20 years of experience is very different from one made by someone who is just launching their corset business after making a few corsets for his or herself and a few friends.  When you are corset shopping, that is not the time to bargain hunt.

Model Whitney McCabe backstage at a Pop Antique fashion show, in a RTW Vixen. Whitney, who has only occasionally corseted in the past, wore this ribbon corset all evening – it was so comfortable that she didn’t take it off until after our round of post-show drinks, when she had to leave her ensemble with me.

Do you own any ready-to-wear corsets, or only bespoke?  Who makes your favorite ready-to-wear fit?

Marianne

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Corset Style Watch: Chic & Sheer

Sheer corsetry, a study in contrasts with barely-there fabrications and sinuous steel structure.  Dark Garden’s “Risqué” ready-to-wear corset, balancing sheer mesh and silk satin.

Corset trends are gentle and slow-moving, taking years instead of weeks to build momentum.  Today’s post looks at several chic and sheer corsets, with a focus on the handmade.  Sheer corsets wonderfully exemplify the unique outer/under aesthetic of modern corsetry.  In their lightness, they are often more comfortable (and thin) for wearing all-day as a foundation garment.  Lace overlays look striking as the lace may appear to simultaneously float and sculpt, with the strength layer near-invisible.  The sheerness layers well over clothing, particularly complementary prints, emphasizing dramatic corseted silhouettes yet without the heavy, rigidly corseted look.
In the interest of fairness, I have listed these cinched sweeties in alphabetical order by maker.

Crikey Aphrodite’s lacy sheer corsets would be unquestionably perfect for brides but also style well with feminine daywear looks.
Photo © Clare Coulter Photography

Crikey Aphrodite, Glasgow
Bespoke Corsets
Sheer corsets are the perfect addition to Crikey Aphrodite’s beautiful, feminine line-up of custom corsets, which are popular with local brides.  The sheer styles sometimes have additional textural detailing, such as latticed ribbons on the hips.

Dark Garden’s custom Adelaide corset, a lacy, sheer, cupped style.
Photo © Joel Aron

Dark Garden, San Francisco
Unique Corsetry & Bridal Couture
Dark Garden’s first sheer style was the Adelaide: a fully-custom cupped corset, made to look as if it were structured entirely by its lace overlay.  Following its success, Dark Garden started offering its classic ready-to-wear styles in black and pale peach mesh with silk-duchess satin contrast under the name “Risqué.”  The Risqué is also available with lace overlay, and includes a back panel and 3 pairs of garters.

Pop Antique’s “Flirt” combines a sheer body with quirky contrasting details.
Photo © Andres Razo

Pop Antique, San Francisco
Flirt Corset
Full disclosure: Pop Antique is my line.  The “Flirt” is a sheer corset which it also features a cupped bust, detachable mini panniers at the hips, optional contrast silk fabrication and waist tape, and lacing detail.  I love wearing my Flirt over a teal and purple rose print silk jersey sheath dress to really highlight the pop color and sheer texture.

Sparklewren’s beautiful sheer cincher is one of her few ready to wear styles. Limited edition.
Photo © Catherine Day Photography

Sparklewren, Birmingham
Limited Edition Sheer Cincher
Sparklewren has other sheer designs, but I particularly adore these tiny ready-to-wear cinchers.  They have such a perfectly balanced design, from the barely-there sweetheart silhouette to the artfully placed lace.  She currently has them listed on Etsy, where they are also available in white.

Velda Lauder’s Black Mesh Underbust, ahead of the curve (pun intended!) on the sheer corsetry trend.


Velda Lauder, London
Underbust Black Mesh Corset
Given this weekend’s tragic news about Velda Lauder’s passing, I don’t know how much longer this corset will be available for purchase, but this incarnation of the sheer style is particularly noteworthy as an early adopter.  When I first saw this corset, it was from an old Lingerie Addict post, Corsetieres & Corset Makers: Off the Rack vs. Custom Made, from 2008!

What Katie Did’s “Cabaret” corset is a sheer version of their classic Morticia underbust.

What Katie Did, London
Cabaret Sheer Morticia Corset
The same pattern as their popular Morticia corset, Cabaret is made of double-layered sheer organza with satin casings, and available in peach or black.

Which is your favorite of the above styles, and why?  What corset trends have you noticed gaining momentum lately?  Please share your thoughts in the comments below!

Marianne

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Let’s Talk Knock-offs: Is Copying Designer Lingerie Ever Okay?

Left: Playful Promises ‘Etti’ Longline Bra via ASOS. Originally $78.93.
Right: Frederick’s of Hollywood ‘Sandra’ Longline Bra. Originally $34.00.

Has there ever been a more controversial subject in the fashion industry than this one? No matter your opinion on knock-offs, cheap copies of luxury goods are here to stay. After all, if there’s a market for people who want expensive items for lower prices (and there definitely is), there’s going to be a company that’s willing to cater to that market.

Some of these knock-offs are outright counterfeits and forgeries (i.e. they’re being advertised and sold as the authentic item) but many more of these knock-offs are “inspired by” replicas…where enough of the original design has been kept to make it recognizable, but not so much that legal action is justified or even possible. And it’s that second kind of knock-off that’s becoming more and more popular, even within the lingerie industry.

I know a lot of brands and designers read The Lingerie Addict, so I just want to acknowledge that I understand this post will probably ruffle some feathers (and doubtless bring me a few “You should never have written this!” e-mails). But the conversation on knock-offs (and if they’re ever justified) is already happening among lingerie consumers. Even if the subject is a little awkward to talk about, it’s one that very much needs to be discussed out in the open.

3 of these 6 photos are stolen. Another is a stock image.

Earlier, I made a distinction between outright forgeries and ‘inspired-by’ knock-offs and I just want to be clear that I am definitely not in favor of counterfeit goods. Counterfeits are always wrong, and there is nothing excusable about one brand stealing the images, copy, and marketing materials of another brand in order pass their merchandise off as someone else’s. However, that particular issue is not what this article is about. Instead, I want to focus on two somewhat grayer areas of knockoffs…prices and sizes.

Price Knockoffs:

Left: Marika Vera ‘Nydia’ Bodysuit. Originally $520.00.
Right: Ann Summers ‘Peony’ Bodysuit. Originally £40.00 ($62.00)

Make no mistake: quality lingerie is expensive, both in terms of materials (silk, lace, chiffon,satin, etc.) and in terms of labor. It takes a lot of time and effort to construct a bra, and if you’re one of the dozens of independent designers making pieces by hand or in small factory batches, you simply don’t have the volume to get the lower manufacturing costs a larger brand can. And in the same way a global intimates empire will pass their cost savings on to customers in the form of lower prices, smaller brands have to pass along their higher costs in the form of increased prices. Factor in the increased costs of things like fair trade and ethical production (which are important to many smaller brands, but which many large brands don’t care about), and you’re looking at an even greater price differential.

But, on the other side, it’s true that many women simply can’t afford luxury lingerie. It’s not about what they’d “rather” buy; it’s just not an option. In this era of depressed wages, uncertain job markets, and ever-increasing costs for basic necessities, I don’t blame women for thinking twice before dropping 3 figures on a bra and panty set. And while it would be great if we could all fill our closets with handmade, ethically-produced items, those goods do cost more…and that money may just not be available if you’re on a tight budget.

Finally (and I won’t name any names here) not every luxury brand is worth the luxury price. Whether it’s skimping on quality materials or quietly moving manufacturing to cheaper sites overseas (while retaining the same high prices), sometimes a luxury brand is just a lot of hype…smoke and mirrors produced by an excellent PR team, a beautifully lit photoshoot, and some fancy decorations in a boutique.

Size Knockoffs:

Left: Kriss Soonik ‘Susan Chic’ Body. Originally €159.00 ($212.00). Available up to size US10.
Right: Empress Lingerie Ruffle Lace Romper. Price Unknown. Featured in Plus Model Mag.

No big secret here: the average size range of any one lingerie brand is pretty limited. Whether a brand chooses to focus on standard sizes, full bust sizes, or plus sizes, there is no single lingerie brand out there making everything for every woman of every size. However, it’s also true that women who fit into the traditionally standard size range (approximately US bra sizes 32-36 B-D and US dress sizes 0-10) have many more options available to them than women outside that range. As a size 10, I’m at the outer limits of the standard sizing chart, but I can still assume the average brand fits me. When it doesn’t, it’s an exception…not the rule. For many women though, especially plus size women, the search for pretty underthings is a long, unpleasant, and completely demoralizing experience.

The size thing becomes even more interesting when you realize there’s a link between how expensive a brand is and how many women their size range encompasses. It’s been my experience that more expensive brands have smaller size ranges. Right now, I’m thinking of several high-end European names that I’ve personally tried (no names) which max out at a US size 6/8. That is a super narrow size range, and it excludes a lot of women. Unsurprisingly, women who wear double digit dress sizes want beautiful lingerie too, and so lately several plus size companies have stepped in with larger size knock-offs of popular styles.

There are a lot of good reasons for why a brand can’t abruptly expand their size range. As I mentioned earlier, all brands, even plus size brands, specialize. That’s because the costs of trying to be all things to all people would rapidly drive a company out of business (especially an independent company). It’s also true that making plus size lingerie isn’t just a matter of taking a standard size pattern and enlarging it, but requires a complete redrafting…particularly in the case of complex, supportive undergarments like bras. All of that costs money, and if a company isn’t absolutely sure they’ll recoup the costs, they may decide to focus on what they’re good at…and what they know will make them money.

That said, plus size women shouldn’t have to wear ugly underwear because no one’s making their size. I feel really fortunate that I can buy most of what I like, but if I were to go up a size (which is very likely to happen at some point), I suddenly wouldn’t be able to buy most of what’s out there. And I don’t really want to go back to buying my panties in a 6-pack. Why shouldn’t larger women have pretty undergarments too? Especially if their needs aren’t being met by standard size brands?

The Discussion:

Left: Marlies Dekkers ‘Dame de Paris’ Bra via ASOS. Originally $126.29. Available up to size 40DD.
Right: Cacique by Lane Bryant Strappy Plunge Bra. Originally $40.00. Available up to size 44DDD.

In both of these cases, companies are either unable or unwilling to accommodate all the budgets and sizes of everyone that may be interested in their products. That’s not a fault-finding statement…it just makes sense from both a production/materials/labor perspective and a branding/marketing/advertising one. It’s easier to make and sell a product targeted to a particular group of people than a product targeted to everyone.

So the question becomes…if you have a group of women who’s needs aren’t being met by what’s out there (either because of price or because of size), is it okay for them to buy similar pieces at a lower price point or in extended sizes from other brands?

Most designers and boutiques say “No,” and understandably so. They argue that it devalues the brand, and penalizes small designers for being creative and risk-taking while big brands reap all the rewards of that free market research. But many customers, also understandably, disagree. “If I’m never going to buy from you because you’re not making products for me,” they say, “you haven’t lost any money when I buy from someone else. The sale was never going to be yours.” Some people also argue that knock-offs are advantageous to the industry as they constantly generate new ideas, but the counterargument to that is that small brands will get frustrated and quit (or be outright driven out of business) if their work is always being knocked-off.

As a blogger, I see both sides. Professionally, I spend a lot of time talking to and working with independent designers (many of whom are 1 or 2 woman operations), and it stings when you see all their hard work being stolen with just the slightest reworking. It’s heartbreaking because you know these designers will never be able to sell as cheaply or offer as many sizes as a department store, and they’re being punished for it. And it can very well drive a brand out of business.

However, as a lingerie consumer (and someone who’s always been a little bigger through the hips and a little smaller through the wallet), I understand what it’s like to have to balance fashion with finance. If you know a certain brand is never going to make anything in a size 14 or in a G cup or for under $200, why not take your money elsewhere? Isn’t that how business works?

What do you think, dear readers? Are knock-offs ever okay? Should brands that can’t meet everyone’s needs ‘suck it up’ as the cost of doing business? Or should customers who are left out in the cold just ‘deal with it?’ And how similar or different can something be before it’s not considered a knock-off anymore? I’m really interested in hearing what you have to say in the comments.

Editor

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Lingerie School, Year 2: Jellyfish Lingerie!

It’s my second year of lingerie studies and my first term is soon coming to a close… Along with a rush of deadlines!  Consequently, the past few days have been a flurry of lingerie activity in order to get my first design project ready to hand in.  Even though it’s still missing the finishing touches, I thought you’d all like to see how my first lingerie project of the year has turned out.

Initial sketchbook work: photography and exploring shapes and colours

Our project brief gave us relatively free rein – requiring a bra, knicker and suspender belt with relevant technical accompaniments.  I chose the starting point of jellyfish and sea life, having always been fascinated by the shapes and colours – flowing, light and delicate.  There are so many ways that these qualities can be transferred to lingerie.

Photographs of ink in water

Print ideas – the centre design ended up being used in my final garments

As well as exploring these qualities through drawing, I had a go at photographing some ink in water to try and capture the amazing shapes and colours.  I loved some of the photos so much that I even had a go at designing some repeat prints with them.

Looking at garment details. L-R – La Perla, La Fille d’O, Fleur of England

I began to look the lingerie world for inspiration.  I was feeling particularly inspired by designs that mixed sheer and opaque fabrics.  I also noticed that quite a few of my favourite designs utilised straight lines – a technique that’s particularly difficult to get right when pattern cutting lingerie, especially in a manner that looks good on the human body.  La Perla’s AW12/13 collection has used these particularly effectively.  I also love the crispness and use of panelling in La Fille Do’s designs and the use of graphic black with sheer tulle by Fleur of England.

Design ideas and scribbles

I began to have a go at sketching my own designs. Unfortunately, drawing is not my strong point – my design ideas are nearly all scribbles that probably don’t make sense to anyone but me!  Nevertheless I had a very strong vision of what I wanted for my final designs. I wanted immaculate attention to detail and perfect finishing – minute and perfectly sewn pin stitches on each seam, purely elegant garments.  I also began experimenting with creating partial bras and cups to get a clearer vision of my designs.

Final fabrics – silk satin, silk habotai, silk chiffon and stretch mesh.

Illustration of my final designs

Everything came together in my head when I finally went fabric shopping.  I found the perfect silk chiffon – ombre reds, purples and blues that exactly echoed my sketchbook starting points. I knew exactly what I wanted my garments to be.

Illustration board of my ‘collection’ – luckily I only have to make one set!

In the final week before the deadline I’ve finalised my designs and am still in the process of actually finishing my garments; unfortunately I don’t have any of the fantastic industrial sewing machines in my own house and have to wait for studio time to use them! Nevertheless, you can get an idea of what my final designs will be, even if they are just pinned together.

Garments in progress: pinned together bra (hence still looking lumpy and shapeless!) and my final skirted suspender belt

So in the next few days I will be panicking about finishing technical packs and drawings (incredibly boring but a necessity for any garment to go into production!), market research and photoshoots.  You will just have to watch this space for the final outcome!

Readers: Do you think I’ve been successful in following my initial ideas through to literal garments?   What are your favourite parts of the project?

Karolina

Karolina

Student at De Montfort University's world-renowned Contour Fashion course. Makes many knickers in her spare time.

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So You Want to Be a Lingerie Designer: 3 Amazing Online Community Resources

A flossed corset by Pop Antique, as shot by Karolina Marek on Victoria Dagger. Much of my corsetmaking knowledge comes from researching via various online communities.

This being November, many Americans such as myself are pondering those things which we have to be grateful.  Trite though it may be, I knew I wanted to touch upon it in my column this month.  One thing I am continually grateful for on a daily basis is being a 21st century woman, regardless of my nostalgic admiration for things antiquated and retro.  I love that we have the freedom to enjoy and embrace these old fashioned aesthetics without being obligated to adhere to (sexist) ideals of the day, and that we can pick and choose when and where we want to employ these aesthetics, mixing and matching old and new with utter abandon according to our personal taste and daily whims.  I love modern medicine and technology, which brings me to the crux of the matter (you knew there was a point in there somewhere!): I love the internet and its infinite capacity for connection and knowledge both.  With that in mind, here are three amazing online communities for various skill levels.  As I am, primarily, a corsetmaker, there is naturally a bit of an emphasis on that field.

Corset interior with floating modesty panel by Electra Designs, founder of the Learn to Make Corsets Like a Pro group on Facebook.

Learn to Make Corsets Like a Pro
A Facebook group founded by Alexis Black (of Electra Designs), which she created to go with her successful Kickstarter for corsetmaking resources.  The community is open to members of all skill levels and backgrounds, and a typical post will be either a specific question regarding construction and troubleshooting of corset construction, or merely an enthusiastic update on the status of a current project.  Alexis herself will regularly chip in to answer questions, and overall the group is very responsive and helpful, allowing one to get a reading on several opinions and possible solutions.

Foundations Revealed is an amazing subscription-based resource for anyone interested in learning to make foundation garments, particularly corsets.

Foundations Revealed
When you’re ready to kick it up a notch, Cathy Hay’s Foundations Revealed has you covered.  While there’s a heavy emphasis on corsetry, they also have articles on making girdles, bras, and even bum rolls!  Foundations Revealed is a subscription-based site, and as they add a new article every week I find it well worth the money for the variety of the articles and authors.  There are articles appropriate to every skill level, from basics to complicated experimental designs.  As well as a wealth of information on various patterning and construction techniques, they also have articles on the topic of running a business.  If you’re not sure about committing to $12 per month, sight unseen, check out their selection of free articles.  Foundations Revealed also recently launched its own forum.

The Lingerie Addict herself, Cora Harrington, founded a safe and private Facebook group for Independent Lingerie Professionals.

Independent Lingerie Professionals
Founded by The Lingerie Addict herself, Cora Harrington, Independent Lingerie Professionals is a small, private community for independent lingerie professionals, from designers and retailers to boudoir photographers, media outlets, and beyond.  If not invited directly, you must be vetted by group moderators for admission, and you must stay actively engaged to remain in the group.  Within the community, we talk about a range of topics: When presented with a new or particularly challenging situation, we have an amazing community to ask for advice, but we also share articles about lingerie/the industry, social media utilization, etc.  Even those posts that aren’t directly relevant to me, I find interesting as they give insight to other facets of the industry.

Are you an indie designer?  Do you participate in any of these communities?  What other online resources do you find valuable?  Tell us in the comments!

Marianne

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Why Body Jewelry is the Hottest trend in Lingerie–and 6 Must Have Pieces

Lola Haze “Web of Seduction Body Chain”

When  I was designing my Lola Haze Spring collection, I spent a lot of time looking at trim and raw materials.  I love unexpected flourishes, especially ones that emphasize hardness or softness.  In lingerie the counterbalance between hard and soft is a design element that can be toyed with to great effect.

I love to incorporate chains into my work, and I’ve been excited about the direction jewelry has been going recently.  Where a few years ago jewelry was easily classified by where it sat on the body–necklaces went around the neck, bracelets around the wrist, earrings through a pierced ear, and rings on a finger– leather and chains and rings have started creeping over the hills and dales of body parts, blurring territories and categories.

They’ve formed a brute squad (but such delicate brutes!) and have taken over every exposed piece of flesh.  There are rings that snake over knuckles and wrists, earrings that encapsulate the entire ear cartilage, and necklaces that enmesh breasts and ribs and waists.

I especially love all this jewelry when I think of it in the context of lingerie.  If one purpose of lingerie is to encompass and adorn the body beautifully, then why limit the category of lingerie to things made of fabric?  The new interpretation of how jewelry interacts with the body blurs into the category of lingerie.

So for my Lola Haze collection, I designed a body chain.  I draped it and fit it just like I would a silk chemise, the whole time trying to combat the gravity and wiliness of skinny metal links.  I’m excited by the end result and its versatility: it can be worn alone, scandalously, against the skin; as an accent with lingerie; or as a bold accessory over a simple dress.

It’s not just the versatility (and therefore added value) of body jewelry that I love, but also the beautiful contradiction of draped metal.  It has the glint of body armor, and also the sweetness of a treasured keepsake.

Here are a 4 great pieces:

I came across designer Bliss Lau‘s incredible jewelry line recently, and fell in love with everything.  To me, the standouts were the her art deco collection.  I got to ask Bliss a bit about her pieces:

“The concept for the Zelda Bra is inspired by Zelda Syre (Fitzgerald) I created a full art deco collection which includes styles “Chrysler Bracelet” the slave style bracelet inspired by the chrysler building and “Ziegfeld” a shoulder piece inspired by the Ziegfeld Follies.  All of these styles are made using delicate chain which has details of vintage chain featuring small black glass beads.”

Bliss Lau “Zelda Bra,” $395

Bliss Lau “Zigfield”

Bijoux Indiscrets “Flamboyant,” $26

Lone Wolf Accents Thigh Chain, $65

Nasty Gal body chain, $38

What do you think of body chains as lingerie?  Would you wear one?

Laura a.k.a. Lola Haze

I’ve loved lingerie since before that was reasonable. I taught myself drawing, designing, and sewing, and after graduating from Harvard with an English degree, immediately went to work disregarding it and following my passion for fashion. After a few years designing for a big company, I went off on my own and started Lola Haze TM, (named after the title character in “Lolita,” my favorite book). Lola Haze is playwear for the bold woman who loves fun and dresses for herself! I feel happy and lucky that I get to love my job so much, and am thrilled to share my lingerie enthusiasm with The Lingerie Addict!

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Indie Designer Spotlight: Deja Vu Dessous by Dollhouse Bettie

I first found out about the Deja Vu Dessous line when modeling for Dollhouse Bettie a few months ago.  I modeled three complete looks, and found myself loving each one.  Most of the pieces start from a vintage slip, from which designer Valerie Santillo makes everything from full teddies to bralettes and garter belts, half-slips, and panties.  Occasionally a slip will even get transformed into a very different slip as damage is cut away and it’s mixed with other fabrics and trims.

The execution of each design is elegant in its simplicity, nimbly transforming damaged vintage classics into a new look while preserving the integral charm of the original garment.  In this feature, I sit down with Valerie Santillo, who designs the Deja Vu Dessous line at Dollhouse Bettie.  You can view and purchase the Deja Vu styles online or at Dollhouse Bettie’s Haight St. boutique in San Francisco.

Deja Vu Dessous Valerie Peach & Ecru Lace Romper

Tell us a bit about the background of Deja Vu Dessous.  When did Dollhouse Bettie launch this line, and what was the original inspiration?
Deja Vu Dessous has been a long time in the making.  Michelle Metens, owner of Dollhouse Bettie, had the idea on the back burner for years before we launched it in 2011. We take authentic vintage garments that need repairs or have small defects, but are otherwise beautiful, and we revamp them.  The vintage pieces themselves were the inspiration – Michelle has collected some amazing garments over the years, aside from as-new and new-old-stock pieces we also sell.
Though Deja Vu Dessous is not a collection in the traditional sense, there are some consistent aesthetic and construction choices which characterize the line.  The overall look came to be when Michelle and I found some time in the studio- we just bounced ideas off one another until we arrived at the look that it is today.  We did a small collection together, and since then I have been designing Deja Vu for Dollhouse Bettie.  I think an important element of the line is the raw, “pinked” edges, which have become a main component of the look and feel.  It was also a great way to make use of what was available while adding a modern unique look to the line.

Deja Vu Dessous Leslie Bra & High Waist Pantie

Has the current vision for the line changed at all since its creation?
I think the vision has remained the same, but we are constantly expanding and evolving the line and getting re-inspired. We had started with using primarily vintage woven rayon slips and have grown to transform anything from tricot slips, bralettes, nightgowns… the list goes on. It’s all just trial and error, and as I create more pieces I get new ideas about finishing techniques.

What’s your favorite part of designing Deja Vu Dessous?
I love trying to maintain what I think is really beautiful about any given piece while also modernizing and updating it in some way. It can be a bit challenging at times, working from an already existing garment, but I think that challenge of trying to create something using only what I have available in front of me also encourages a lot of creativity.

Deja Vu Dessous Lola Peach Bralette & Garter Belt

What’s your background in fashion and design?
I have a BFA in fashion design from the Accademy of Art University here in San Francisco. My initial focus was not designing lingerie; I was primarily interested in designing women’s clothing.  The longer I spend time around all this gorgeous lingerie the more I see it influencing my designs!


What do you find most challenging?
As I mentioned earlier, it can be challenging to work within the limitations of an existing garment, but that is the fun of it as well. I’ve also noticed that if I have too many pre-conceived ideas of what I want to create it can be counterproductive.  Sometimes I just have to let the original garment dictate the design.

Deja Vu Dessous Clara Bralette & Tap Pantie

How much new construction and findings go into Deja Vu pieces?  Do you combine multiple pieces?
I love being able to use as many vintage elements in the finished product as possible but I also use new trims and components.  I think it’s the mixture of new and vintage that keeps Deja Vu exciting. I pretty much always combine multiple vintage pieces: the garters or straps will be salvaged from one garment, the accent color or trim may come from another. Michelle has been collecting vintage for so many years it feels like I have access to endless amounts of things to work with! It’s a lot of fun.
How do you come up with those style names?


For the most part I have named them with popular women’s names from the 1920s, 30s and 40s, depending on the personality of the item. However, I will change it up from time; each style in the last group, for example, was named after a Dollhouse Bettie employee.

Deja Vu Dessous Lola Peach Bralette & Garter Belt

Do the authentic vintage pieces and resulting Deja Vu styles inform and inspire ready to wear ideas for you and Dollhouse Bettie?

Yes, quite a bit actually. We have patterned some Deja Vu styles already, and I think it pretty much goes without saying many vintage pieces inspire and inform the styles that are put into production at Dollhouse Bettie.  Working with the pieces to revamp them for Deja Vu gives us additional insight into their construction and design. Personally, I am endlessly inspired by vintage garments and detailing, and creating Deja Vu pieces has helped me a lot with coming up new ideas and designs.

What about current designers, are there any in particular whom you admire?
I am constantly inspired by very small lingerie designers I might discover on Etsy, through a blog, or from a friend. Most recently, Stephanie Bodnar of Honey Cooler Handmade comes to mind. I kind of just stumbled upon her Etsy shop and I found her design aesthetic to be particularly charming.  I really love her point of view, not to mention her insertion lace technique is absolutely stunning! The fact that she does everything by hand is also a very inspiring aspect of her line, I love the uniqueness and individuality of all her pieces.

Deja Vu Dessous Ana Pink Bralette & Garter Belt

What do you think makes Deja Vu Dessous special?
I think the individuality of Deja pieces and the handmade, one-of-a-kind elements makes the line special. I always aim to maintain that line between vintage touches and modernity and I think that is an important element for the Dollhouse Bettie brand as a whole.

How do you think shoppers style their Deja pieces?  Mostly in their boudoir for seductive purposes?  Casual loungewear?  Innerwear as outerwear?
I would like to think all of the above! And from what I hear, that’s true. I try to incorporate versatility into many of the designs. Creating a garter skirt with detachable garters, for instance, allows a seductive lingerie garment to also serve as loungewear, a mini slip or possibly even a regular skirt.

Deja Vu Dessous Minnie Black Romper Teddy

What have some of your favorite designs been and why?Generally speaking, often my favorite designs are ones that seem to pave the way for new ideas. The most recent thing I have discovered will often be my favorite of the moment, possibly because I feel like I have figured out a new way to expand the range of styles we offer with Deja Vu. I also might be partial to a design simply because the original vintage garment was just exceptionally beautiful!

Do you have any Deja Vu Dessous pieces in your personal collection?
I actually have the very first piece we did for Deja Vu.  It was a teddy that Michelle and I had worked on together, when we were still working out the look of the brand.  I’m also always trying to think of ways I can “Deja” what I already own.

Deja Vu Dessous Frenchie Bralette & Mini Slip

What do you think is in the future for Deja Vu Dessous?
I am really excited to feature a special silk collection for Deja Vu. We have not yet expanded the range to include silk garments and there is quite a bit of stock just waiting for the right moment!

Deja Vu Dessous Eloise Bralette and Garter Skirt


What do you think of Deja Vu Dessous by Dollhouse Bettie?  How would you style the designs?  Do you have another favorite upcycling/vintage-repurposing designer?  Please share your thoughts in the comments!

Marianne

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