Posts in category "interview"

Luxury Lingerie for a Cause: Lingerie London and The Seven Bar Foundation

Atsuko Kudo

Last week, one of the most spectacular events in all of lingerie happened…and no, I’m not talking about the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show. The event was Lingerie London and it brought together two powerhouses in the lingerie industry – Agent Provocateur and Atsuko Kudo, for a good cause – the microfinance non-profit The Seven Bar Foundation. I had the opportunity to interview Renata Black, chairwoman of Seven Bar, the day after the show and I’m so excited to share what she has to say on The Lingerie Addict. I’ve always believed lingerie can be more than just bras and panties, and here’s a wonderful example of how lingerie can do good for women all over the world. All photos are courtesy of Seven Bar. You can also view video highlights of the show here.

Atsuko Kudo

1) First of all, congratulations on another successful fashion show! Lingerie London happened just last night, and people have not stopped talking about it. I even think the #LingerieLondon hashtag was trending for a little while on Twitter. Second of all, thank you for taking the time to answer a few questions for TLA readers! I’m sure you must be exhausted, so let’s get right to it. I know that the last show was Lingerie New York 2010. What made you choose London for 2012?

Thank you very much! We were so excited with the event. The first thing we did was look at all the luxury lingerie designers in Europe as we wanted to make sure we worked with the strongest designer for our next Lingerie event.  After careful consideration we realized that both of them resided in London—Agent Provocateur and Atsuko Kudo—so it was a natural move for us to have our first European Lingerie event in London.

Atsuko Kudo

2) The production value of your fashion shows is incredible…from what I’ve seen, they’re truly an experience. How long does one take to put together from start to finish?

We started working on this show over a year ago, as we wanted to make sure it was a quality event. We partnered with Total Management UK, who helped tremendously with putting the show together and making it a success.

Atsuko Kudo

3) Agent Provocateur and Atsuko Kudo are two of the most well-known and well-respected names in high-end lingerie. How did they come to be involved? Did they approach you? Did you approach them? And why these two specific brands?

Both Agent Provocateur and Atsuko Kudo are brands that we have a long-standing relationship with and have shown in the past. When we were curating the show and looking at all the best couture and luxury lingerie brands we felt that Atsuko Kudo and Agent Provocateur were truly the best in their class. Additionally, we decided to work with AP and AK because they are both completely different and we could reach two different audiences with the message of the empowerment of women.

Agent Provocateur

4) There’s a ton of press being given to all the gorgeous lingerie, but what a lot of people may not know is that this fashion show is actually charity event benefiting The Seven Bar Foundation, a 501 (c)(3) nonprofit organization. Can you tell us more about The Seven Bar Foundation? What’s its mission and what does it do?

The Seven Bar Foundation is the cause brand for the empowerment of women, with the pink ‘ladder’ icon as its logo. The Foundation generates funds for microfinance, enabling women to climb out of poverty and into business. We want to empower women and enable self-sufficiency—it is about giving them a hand-up, not a hand-out.

We generate funds through our Lingerie Shows as well as through cause-marketing campaigns, allowing consumers to empower women by purchasing products with the ladder icon. We also have our very own panty line called Empowered By You, of which 20% of the profits go to the Foundation.  All these partnerships provide Seven Bar with consistent revenue streams, so that we do not have to rely on donations to fuel our empowerment fund.

Agent Provocateur

5) There are so many causes worth funding…what made you choose microfinance as a way to make a difference?

I truly believe that microfinance is one of the strongest poverty alleviation tools today. Microfinance fosters self-sufficiency and allows women to break the cycle of poverty for themselves and their children. With a small loan, a woman can start a successful business and send her children to school, which in turn creates more opportunities for families and inspires girls to follow in their mother’s footsteps.

Agent Provocateur

6) I love that! How did you come up with the idea of combining lingerie and activism? Did you ever think the shows would be come the kind of internationally recognized events they are today?

The idea came to me shortly after I returned from India, where I had started a grassroots microfinance program for 800 women. I was watching the Victoria’s Secret Annual Fashion Show, and saw how much attention this show received for no benefit. I thought to myself, “Wouldn’t it be amazing if all of this attention was redirected back to the empowerment of women?”

It seemed natural to me to position lingerie as inner armor for outer empowerment, and align myself with top lingerie designers who already had this idea in their DNA and had already been making women feel empowered through their clothing. Through our shows, we have been able to redirect the attention of the fashion and luxury lingerie industries to microfinance and the empowerment of women. Our goal is to reach as many people as possible with our message, so we are thrilled about the response our shows have received.

Agent Provocateur

7) Many of my readers (myself included) will probably never be able to attend one of your luxury lingerie fashion shows. How else can we get involved and help your mission to eliminate poverty?

That is where the Empowered By You panty comes in. As I was doing these lingerie shows I was thinking, “How can I have more people help us empower women into business?” I saw need for a perfect everyday panty that could make the transition from yoga to cocktail party, and decided to design a panty with the help of my great friend Hun Kim (former head designer of Ralph Lauren Blue Label) – Empowered By You. As previously mentioned, this panty retails at $20 and 20% of the proceeds goes to the Foundation. Anyone who purchases a panty helps us further our goal and empower more women—whatever empowers you, empowers women everywhere. Our goal is to empower 250,000 women into business by 2020. The panty is available for purchase at www.empoweredbyyou.com.

Empowered by You

8) Can you share with us one story of someone The Seven Bar Foundation has helped?

Yes! One of the organizations we’ve worked with is Genesis Empresarial, a microfinance bank in Guatemala. $100,000 was lent to them, and 250 women have been impacted with an average loan size of $400. Here’s the story of one of those women – Carmen.

Carmen started her artisan work to help create extra income for her family. She worked for her neighbor, creating beautiful woven textiles that were sold in the market place. Carmen received little of the profits from the final textiles but was able to slowly save extra funds to hopefully send her son to school.

When Carmen’s husband died, she had to take sole responsibility for providing for her family. With a fund from the Seven Bar Foundation, Carmen was able to buy thread and fabric supplies to open her own textile business. As the owner of her own business, Carmen was able to make a bigger income from selling her artisan work directly in the marketplace. When Carmen speaks of her loan you can see how her back straightens out as she says, “I am able to take care of my family on my own. I can send my oldest son and daughter to school, and also use my profits to fix up our house. Now I have the resources to provide for my family.”

Renata

9) How inspiring! Thank you so much for sharing. Last question…where and when will the next Seven Bar lingerie show be?

Our phones have not stopped ringing since the final bow at Lingerie London and we are very humbled to say that we are in high demand so another show in London is looking very possible. However, we do need to get back to our roots in the US, as we have built quite the following that has yet to experience Empowered By You, so Los Angeles is also an option.

Thank you again for taking the time out of your very busy schedule for TLA’s readers, Renata! You’re doing wonderful work, and I can’t wait to hear about the next show.

Treacle

Treacle

Lingerie Blogger. Sugar Junkie. Sci-Fi Geek.

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Indie Designer Spotlight: Deja Vu Dessous by Dollhouse Bettie

I first found out about the Deja Vu Dessous line when modeling for Dollhouse Bettie a few months ago.  I modeled three complete looks, and found myself loving each one.  Most of the pieces start from a vintage slip, from which designer Valerie Santillo makes everything from full teddies to bralettes and garter belts, half-slips, and panties.  Occasionally a slip will even get transformed into a very different slip as damage is cut away and it’s mixed with other fabrics and trims.

The execution of each design is elegant in its simplicity, nimbly transforming damaged vintage classics into a new look while preserving the integral charm of the original garment.  In this feature, I sit down with Valerie Santillo, who designs the Deja Vu Dessous line at Dollhouse Bettie.  You can view and purchase the Deja Vu styles online or at Dollhouse Bettie’s Haight St. boutique in San Francisco.

Deja Vu Dessous Valerie Peach & Ecru Lace Romper

Tell us a bit about the background of Deja Vu Dessous.  When did Dollhouse Bettie launch this line, and what was the original inspiration?
Deja Vu Dessous has been a long time in the making.  Michelle Metens, owner of Dollhouse Bettie, had the idea on the back burner for years before we launched it in 2011. We take authentic vintage garments that need repairs or have small defects, but are otherwise beautiful, and we revamp them.  The vintage pieces themselves were the inspiration – Michelle has collected some amazing garments over the years, aside from as-new and new-old-stock pieces we also sell.
Though Deja Vu Dessous is not a collection in the traditional sense, there are some consistent aesthetic and construction choices which characterize the line.  The overall look came to be when Michelle and I found some time in the studio- we just bounced ideas off one another until we arrived at the look that it is today.  We did a small collection together, and since then I have been designing Deja Vu for Dollhouse Bettie.  I think an important element of the line is the raw, “pinked” edges, which have become a main component of the look and feel.  It was also a great way to make use of what was available while adding a modern unique look to the line.

Deja Vu Dessous Leslie Bra & High Waist Pantie

Has the current vision for the line changed at all since its creation?
I think the vision has remained the same, but we are constantly expanding and evolving the line and getting re-inspired. We had started with using primarily vintage woven rayon slips and have grown to transform anything from tricot slips, bralettes, nightgowns… the list goes on. It’s all just trial and error, and as I create more pieces I get new ideas about finishing techniques.

What’s your favorite part of designing Deja Vu Dessous?
I love trying to maintain what I think is really beautiful about any given piece while also modernizing and updating it in some way. It can be a bit challenging at times, working from an already existing garment, but I think that challenge of trying to create something using only what I have available in front of me also encourages a lot of creativity.

Deja Vu Dessous Lola Peach Bralette & Garter Belt

What’s your background in fashion and design?
I have a BFA in fashion design from the Accademy of Art University here in San Francisco. My initial focus was not designing lingerie; I was primarily interested in designing women’s clothing.  The longer I spend time around all this gorgeous lingerie the more I see it influencing my designs!


What do you find most challenging?
As I mentioned earlier, it can be challenging to work within the limitations of an existing garment, but that is the fun of it as well. I’ve also noticed that if I have too many pre-conceived ideas of what I want to create it can be counterproductive.  Sometimes I just have to let the original garment dictate the design.

Deja Vu Dessous Clara Bralette & Tap Pantie

How much new construction and findings go into Deja Vu pieces?  Do you combine multiple pieces?
I love being able to use as many vintage elements in the finished product as possible but I also use new trims and components.  I think it’s the mixture of new and vintage that keeps Deja Vu exciting. I pretty much always combine multiple vintage pieces: the garters or straps will be salvaged from one garment, the accent color or trim may come from another. Michelle has been collecting vintage for so many years it feels like I have access to endless amounts of things to work with! It’s a lot of fun.
How do you come up with those style names?


For the most part I have named them with popular women’s names from the 1920s, 30s and 40s, depending on the personality of the item. However, I will change it up from time; each style in the last group, for example, was named after a Dollhouse Bettie employee.

Deja Vu Dessous Lola Peach Bralette & Garter Belt

Do the authentic vintage pieces and resulting Deja Vu styles inform and inspire ready to wear ideas for you and Dollhouse Bettie?

Yes, quite a bit actually. We have patterned some Deja Vu styles already, and I think it pretty much goes without saying many vintage pieces inspire and inform the styles that are put into production at Dollhouse Bettie.  Working with the pieces to revamp them for Deja Vu gives us additional insight into their construction and design. Personally, I am endlessly inspired by vintage garments and detailing, and creating Deja Vu pieces has helped me a lot with coming up new ideas and designs.

What about current designers, are there any in particular whom you admire?
I am constantly inspired by very small lingerie designers I might discover on Etsy, through a blog, or from a friend. Most recently, Stephanie Bodnar of Honey Cooler Handmade comes to mind. I kind of just stumbled upon her Etsy shop and I found her design aesthetic to be particularly charming.  I really love her point of view, not to mention her insertion lace technique is absolutely stunning! The fact that she does everything by hand is also a very inspiring aspect of her line, I love the uniqueness and individuality of all her pieces.

Deja Vu Dessous Ana Pink Bralette & Garter Belt

What do you think makes Deja Vu Dessous special?
I think the individuality of Deja pieces and the handmade, one-of-a-kind elements makes the line special. I always aim to maintain that line between vintage touches and modernity and I think that is an important element for the Dollhouse Bettie brand as a whole.

How do you think shoppers style their Deja pieces?  Mostly in their boudoir for seductive purposes?  Casual loungewear?  Innerwear as outerwear?
I would like to think all of the above! And from what I hear, that’s true. I try to incorporate versatility into many of the designs. Creating a garter skirt with detachable garters, for instance, allows a seductive lingerie garment to also serve as loungewear, a mini slip or possibly even a regular skirt.

Deja Vu Dessous Minnie Black Romper Teddy

What have some of your favorite designs been and why?Generally speaking, often my favorite designs are ones that seem to pave the way for new ideas. The most recent thing I have discovered will often be my favorite of the moment, possibly because I feel like I have figured out a new way to expand the range of styles we offer with Deja Vu. I also might be partial to a design simply because the original vintage garment was just exceptionally beautiful!

Do you have any Deja Vu Dessous pieces in your personal collection?
I actually have the very first piece we did for Deja Vu.  It was a teddy that Michelle and I had worked on together, when we were still working out the look of the brand.  I’m also always trying to think of ways I can “Deja” what I already own.

Deja Vu Dessous Frenchie Bralette & Mini Slip

What do you think is in the future for Deja Vu Dessous?
I am really excited to feature a special silk collection for Deja Vu. We have not yet expanded the range to include silk garments and there is quite a bit of stock just waiting for the right moment!

Deja Vu Dessous Eloise Bralette and Garter Skirt


What do you think of Deja Vu Dessous by Dollhouse Bettie?  How would you style the designs?  Do you have another favorite upcycling/vintage-repurposing designer?  Please share your thoughts in the comments!

Marianne

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Sparklewren the Boutique: an interview with Jenni Hampshire of Sparklewren Corsets

Jenni Hampshire of Sparklewren is a self-trained corsetiere whose designs aren’t just garments; they are true works of art, pairing beautiful shaping with exquisite embellishment. She will soon be embarking on the ambitious business venture of opening a pop-up corset boutique in Birmingham’s ‘Great Western Arcade’, a wonderful Victorian building in the city centre.  Having helped out with the preparations I’ve been lucky enough to see the amount of work that goes into creating these incredible corsets.  To me, they are the true definition of luxury – a mindblowing amount of attention is lavished on every last detail, from the vast amounts of boning tunnels to the intricate hand appliquéd and layered lace.  I can’t wait to see the boutique open;  Jenni was kind enough to answer a few questions about it so that you can share some of the excitement!

What originally inspired you to open a pop-up boutique?

It is something I have always wanted to do. Perhaps because of my arts background, I always picture my pieces within a context… Whether that’s as part of an ensemble, within a photograph, or within a display environment. Presenting my work within a boutique or showroom  just makes sense to me creatively, though it is of course a sensible move from a marketing point of view. Being a shy, home-based business, the people of Birmingham are perhaps not as aware of Sparklewren as they should be. The pop-up boutique will give me a platform with which to rectify that.

What sort of new challenges do you think a boutique will present that the internet doesn’t?

Probably many more than I realise! I think that negotiating what to display, how much stock to have, etc. will be crucial in conveying the idea of “bespoke”. It’s such an unusual way of dressing to most people, that I imagine people could easily assume it’s just a question of ordering Design X in size 12, when in actual fact each pieces is much more of a collaborative creative process than that. So I think I will be educating those who come through my door, in some respects.

I do love distance/online work for the sole fact that I can take my time to quietly work on an idea, quote, or email. But the pay-off of in-person work is the joy of being there when they receive their corset and being able to day-dream about the piece together. So each method of business has its pros and cons.

The Boutique window, pre-transformation

What’s your vision for the boutique?  Could you explain a little about the theme of gilding and the décor?

The boutique needs to function to present the garments, which is at the forefront of my mind… I need to remember that key fact, else I might get carried away with superfluous details! Whilst I have this overarching obsession with the notion of “gilding” as a creative ethos, I am also mindful of the fact that my boutique mustn’t overwhelm the garments.

So I am aiming for a balance of opulent grandeur and contemporary simplicity. Gilded details, chalky champagne and grey tones, soft hazy muslin drapes… a muted, elegant canvas against which my work can shine.

 

Exquisite Sparklewren detailing – lace appliqué, feathers and crystals

What has been the most exciting part of prepararing for the boutique?  What has been the most nerve wracking?

Dreaming up and creating new pieces is always the most exciting part of any project! But certainly, the interest and support I have had from friends and followers has also been wonderful and a massive confidence boost. Perfect strangers have helped out with the project and some people are already planning their journeys so that they can just see the boutique and its contents in the flesh. It’s terribly encouraging that they care so much. I mean, all I have ever wanted to do is make beautiful things, so it is a complete joy that having found my medium people are responding to it and enjoying that beauty.

As far as nerves go, I can get nervous over the silliest things sometimes. I would say that waiting for the keys to the space was the most nerve-wracking time though, as I was convinced something would happen to scupper my plans!

Gorgeous layered lace

Could you describe the show pieces that you have in mind for the boutique?  Just how amazingly shiny will they be?

Haha, very shiny! I’m working on lightly “gilded” cinchers all the way to heavily encrusted iridescent silk satin corseted gowns. I have pieces which require four or five separate layers of applied texture on top of the main construction (which in itself is a very time-consuming process) and I am thinking a lot about the relationship between silhouette and surface in these pieces.

Being a typical magpie, this is all great fun for me and I hope it will prove equally eye-catching and intriguing for my friends, peers and future potential clients.

A sheer sweetheart cincher

What sort of ready-to-wear things can we expect at the boutique?

Delicate little sweetheart cinchers with hand-cut and appliqued couture lace… potentially some little silk and lace treats such as blindfolds, panties or cami tops… and no doubt a couple of overbust corsets too, since I can’t help but create new pieces all the time.

What services do you plan to offer at the boutique?

As mentioned, I do want to update a small selection of stock items every so often, to keep the boutique pretty and satisfy some client’s decadent whims! But the focus of my work at this time really is bespoke. Primarily because I’m fickle and easily bored! Bespoke allows for each project to be exceptional, different and interesting in its own right. I believe that bridal, stage, boudoir wear… it can all be elevated by consideration of every little detail in relation to the client’s character and physique. Having display items constantly on show within the boutique (something not possible in my home studio) will encourage greater imagination, I think.

So there will be a main space for display of items, client meetings, sale of stock pieces… a hidden workspace (which will no doubt be creative chaos)… and a generous fitting area for dressing clients and checking toiles.

When is the launch and what can we expect to see there?

I’m aiming for either the 26th or 27th June for the launch, evening time, but this is still up in the air and I will let everyone know once it is confirmed. The launch will be the official unveiling of my most recent “gilded” corsets and corseted gowns, which I am massively excited about! The window (which is featuring a gilded backdrop by artist Emily Swift-Jones) will, for that one night, also feature a special guest, resplendent in golden Sparklewren finery, as a living mannequin.

I have to say, the launch excites me the most… the idea of all those sparkling, gleaming corsets, the window, the living mannequin… I want it to be overwhelming, for the visitors to feel saturated in gold, enveloped in sumptuous fabrics. I can’t wait.

A huge thank you to Jenni for taking the time to answer these questions – I think it’s safe to say that the boutique will be stunning once it’s open!   Jenni’s website can be found here.

Karolina

Karolina

Student at De Montfort University's world-renowned Contour Fashion course. Makes many knickers in her spare time.

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Why Start a Lingerie Boutique? – An Interview with Sarah Wizemann of Lille Boutique

A Photo from Lille Boutique's 5th Anniversary Party

Portland, OR lingerie boutique, Lille Boutique, recently celebrated its 5th year anniversary. I visited Lille almost 3 years ago, shortly after moving to Seattle, and was amazed by their style…which reminded me more of an opulent ladies’ dressing room than a typical lingerie shop. Lille Boutique is also one of the few independent lingerie boutiques that allows for a comprehensive online shopping experience. In this interview, Sarah Wizemann, Lille’s Founder, talks about why she started her boutique, the role of tradeshows in determing which brands she picks up, and her advice to aspiring lingerie entrepreneurs.

For more advice to lingerie businesses, take a look at Ellen Lewis’ interview from last year – “How to Break Into the Lingerie Industry.”

1) Thanks so much for taking the time for an interview with us, Sarah! I know you’re super busy, and I definitely appreciate sharing your expertise with my readers. Every week, I get a ton of questions around starting and running a lingerie boutique. Why do you think so many people are interested in the lingerie industry now, and specifically in starting their own shop?

The lingerie industry has been experiencing a sort of renaissance period these past few years, particularly in America, with more and more young women getting into the business. I think today’s body-conscious fashions, as well as the growing popularity of the ‘innerwear as outerwear’ trend, have contributed significantly, but I also feel that it was a case of innovation arising out of necessity.

So many of the old lingerie houses failed to respond to their customers’ needs by staying on trend and adjusting their prices in light of the economic crisis, so there was a void in the market just waiting to be filled. I am so thrilled to be able to support so many up-and-coming young designers who are manufacturing in a morally and ethically responsible manner, creating fun, fashion-forward lingerie for modern women that is priced appropriately for the amount of work going into each garment. As for ladies interested in opening their own shops, I think that trend can also be traced back to the economic crisis and the desire to be your own boss. I know that was a huge part of my motivation!

2) You probably don’t know this, but I visited your store a few months after moving to Seattle and I thought it was absolutely gorgeous. What made you want to open Lille Boutique? And what’s the story behind the name?

Thank you so much for your kind words! I have always had a love of fine lingerie and an appreciation for beautifully constructed garments, not to mention an obsession with the 1920s, when the flappers liberated themselves from the corset. My mother used to be a seamstress and a costume designer, and I was a ballet and modern dancer, so she made a lot of my leotards and tutus throughout my adolescence. Dance costumes and lingerie have a lot in common in terms of construction, so I think that was the seed that sprouted my lingerie obsession.

When my husband and I moved to Portland from New York City in 2005, I realized that many of the brands I had come to know and love were not available here, so I started doing my research and saw that there was a great opportunity to fill that niche. I feel so fortunate that the ladies of Portland, as well as our online customers, have an appreciation for what we do and have continued to support us so loyally over the past five years! The store is named after the city of Lille, France, which, along with Calais, used to produce fine bobbin lace at the turn of the century. It hearkens back to an appreciation for quality, hand-made, delicate things and an bygone era, not to mention my own Francophile nature!

3) Tell us some of the most challenging things about running your own boutique. And since it’s no good to stay in a negative headspace, what are some of the most rewarding?

It’s funny, but the best and worst aspect of running your own boutique are one and the same: you wear a lot of hats. This keeps things fresh and exciting every day, but it also means that you work non-stop and have a hard time turning off at the end of the day. In any given moment, I may be acting as a buyer, visual merchandiser, trend forecaster, party planner, photo/video shoot production manager (those are all the fun ones!) or I may be juggling scheduling, handling payroll, dealing with customer returns and QC issues, or simply washing dishes after an event! It’s fantastic for people who can’t sit still, like me, but it can also be very anxiety-inducing, as anyone who owns their own business will affirm. You’re always wondering if you remembered to check everything off of your endless To-Do list.

4) A lot of designers, especially independent designers, read The Lingerie Addict. What goes into deciding whether or not you carry a new line? Does lingerie market (CurveNY, for example) factor at all into that decision?

There are so many factors to take into consideration, and I think they really vary quite a bit from store to store. It’s interesting how often a designer will tell me that something is “their best seller” but that clearly is not for the Lille customer. We definitely do not fit into the lingerie store mold! But I would say that the most important determining factors are as follows, in order of importance:

1. Do I love it?
2. Does the quality justify the price point?
3. Is it fulfilling a need?
4. Is the designer manufacturing in a conscientious manner?
5. Can I sell it?

Curve is a fantastic market, and we attend it every season religiously, but I scour the earth for new lines, and it makes no difference to me if they are showing at Curve, in a showroom, in a hotel room, or at their apartment. In fact, I prefer the latter, because it allows you to get inside the designers head and have a more intimate knowledge of their raison d’etre.

5) I have to ask…what’s in your personal lingerie drawer? Any faves you come to again and again?

I’m so glad you asked! I recently acquired an incredible vintage card catalog from the 40s that has about 12 drawers, all of which are very deep and approximately as wide as a bra folded in half. My dear, sweet husband lined them in hardwood that was left over from renovating our house, so each drawer has a nice, smooth surface.

I organize my lingerie by brand, with my favorite everyday basics in front, and the lesser-worn, special-occasion lingerie in the back. My absolute favorites are Stella McCartney, Eres, Princesse Tam Tam, and Huit for everyday underwire bras and boyshorts, Malia Mills for swim, The Lake and Stars and VPL for fashion-forward, peekaboo bra outfits, and Araks or Eberjey cotton for comfort, especially when I travel.

6) What word of advice would you give to aspiring lingerie entrepreneurs?

Put your heart into it, and try not to listen to what everyone else thinks you should do. I’ve seen a lot of young designers launch a beautiful new brand, then completely change stride for their sophomore collection because of buyer feedback (i.e. we need you to make more padded bras!) I think it’s important to take into account what the customer wants, but you have to follow your dream and listen to your own inner voice, otherwise the collection won’t have any integrity. It’s also extremely important to get the fit right, even if that means you have to go through 20 different fittings and change factories as many times as is necessary.

7) Last thing…congrats on recently celebrating your 5 year anniversary! What’s next for you, Lille Boutique, and Lille Trousseau?

Thank you so much! We are so happy to still be here in light of economic crisis. It’s been a labor of love, and a testament to perseverance for me and so many of my friends who also own small boutiques. Hang in there, ladies! We have our sights on California for the next possible Lille location, but I also love Seattle and Vancouver. Only time will tell!

Treacle

Treacle

Lingerie Blogger. Sugar Junkie. Sci-Fi Geek.

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Let’s Talk Bras! An Interview with Ali Cudby of Fab Foundations

Today I’m really excited to be interviewing Ali Cudby of Fab Foundations. Ali is the  author of Busted!: The FabFoundations Guide To Bras That Fit, Flatter and Feel Fantastic. I got an advance press review copy of the book last year, and I’ve already recommended it privately to several of my readers.

One of the things I like most about Busted! is how approachable and down-to-earth it is. I’m a big fan of talking about lingerie in a way everyone can understand, and I’m an even bigger fan of empowering women to recognize good lingerie and good fit for themselves. In our interview today, Ali talks about why bras are so important, her most poignant bra memory, and how to discover your size if you don’t live near a fitter.

1) Thanks so much for making the time for my readers! I’ve read your book, “Busted!: The Fab Foundations Guide to Bras That Fit, Flatter, and Feel Fantastic” a few times now and it’s in regular rotation in my library. What made you want to write a book about lingerie? Do you come from a retail or design background?
I come from the background of being a frustrated consumer. After a lifetime of ill-fitting bras that were uncomfortable and unflattering, I (accidentally, but happily) stumbled into the world beyond DD bras around 8 years ago. It was a transformational moment for me. Finding bras that fit changed how I felt in my body, every single day – and it was so thrilling that I began learning more about the industry, blogging, and ultimately creating a methodology for fit that became the basis of Busted!

2) One of the things The Lingerie Addict tries to do is emphasize how important lingerie is to a woman’s wardrobe. Just how important do you think bras and bra fitting should be to women?
Women tell me that they don’t care much about their bras because bras “don’t show.” I couldn’t disagree more! Wearing a bra that fits is going to improve how your clothes look on your body. Proper fit will even improve your posture and help reduce sagging later in life. Plus, a properly fitted bra will be more comfortable, which enables you to focus on other things, without distraction. I know I feel much better in my skin whenever I’m wearing a bra that makes the girls stand up and proud. Women who have gotten fitted after years of wearing uncomfortable, ill-fitting bras say the same thing. So I think bras and fit is hugely important to women, whether they’re an AA-cup or an N-cup.

3) So true! Getting personal here for a moment, what’s your most poignant bra memory?
I hated going bra shopping as a teenager. My Mom would take me – and my Mom was (and is) tiny and small busted, whereas I’ve always been curvy. As a teen, I didn’t want to be curvy, and my self-esteem was not-so-hot to begin with. Then we’d get to the lingerie department and the stores only stocked up to a DD, which didn’t begin to fit. I joked that I had a six-pack — the two boobs in the cups, the two spilling over the top and the two sliding beneath the underwire. I tried to make light of the situation, but I wasn’t laughing on the inside. I can remember this one time, trying bra after bra, and nothing worked. Not even the ugly grandma bras that could have doubled as flak jackets. There was just nothing that fit, and I felt like the bigger message was that there was something fundamentally wrong with me.

I tried to stop the tears, but once they started I couldn’t stop them. I was crying in the fitting room, which only made me feel worse about myself and about the entire situation. My Mom and the sales woman were giving me these pitying looks, which was like gas on the fire — I can still remember that awful feeling. Nobody – teen or grown woman – should have to go through that. Of course, the product selection is much better now, and women have options that didn’t exist when I was a teen…but too many women are still made to feel like there’s something wrong with them and their bodies when they shop for bras. Nothing could be further from the truth. Women should demand products that fit, and if they can’t find them locally, learn to shop online. Being empowered to have beautiful bras that fit can be life changing.


3) 100% agree. There are quite a few books on bras and bra fit out there, so I have to ask, what makes Busted! different from the other guides on bras and lingerie?
I think I’ve read all the books out there, and there’s excellent information in all of them. What makes Busted! unique is that it’s the only book that focuses exclusively on bras that fit, with in-depth steps for understanding what fit looks like on a body, different body types, shopping, etc. Some of those components are in other books, but Busted! is the only book I know that is focused on the fit message at this level of depth. I’m also gratified to hear from readers that they like the tone of Busted! — I tried to write it in the same way I would use to explain the information to a friend, and it’s great to know it’s resonating with folks.

4) Speaking of fit, what are the most common bra issues you see? Any quick fixes?
The most common issue I see is that women wear bras that are too large in the band and too small in the cup. Understanding that the band should carry 80-90% of the job of supporting your breasts is the best way to address that problem. If your band is too big then you’ll end up with the straps working too hard to support your breasts. When your straps are doing too much of the work it can be uncomfortable at best and a health issue at worst. If you discover that your band is too big, then adjust — but make sure you are also adjusting your cup size. Band and cup are interrelated, not independent. So as you decrease your band size, you have to increase cup size simultaneously in order to get the same fit. For example, if you were wearing a 34B and realize the band is too big, then when you go to the 32-band, you’ll need to increase to a C-cup to get the same volume in the cup.

The next most common issue stems from women getting caught up in the size on the tag. We have a tendency to see ourselves a particular way — a clothing size, a shoe size…and a bra size. When we learn what fit looks like, it means change. Sometimes that’s not easy for women to accept, especially if the change means a larger cup size — women sometimes freak out when they realize they’re actually a bigger cup size than they ever expected. My advice is always to let go of the numbers and letters – focus on fit. You’ll look better and you’ll feel better!

5) If a woman doesn’t live near a bra fitter, what’s the best way to discover her size?
Too often, women are left to their own devices when shopping, and fitters can be inconsistent – not all of them are well trained. I think the best thing a woman can do for herself is know that there’s a bra out there that will fit properly. Don’t let anyone make you feel like there’s something wrong with your body! There is great product on the market, it just may not be in stores near you. Start with what you’re already wearing and think about how it fits you – or doesn’t. If your bra doesn’t fit, begin adjusting by looking at the band – that’s the most important piece to get right. Once you have a band that fits properly, make sure the cups are creating a smooth line without bulges (a sign your cup is too small) or gaps and wrinkles (a sign they’re too big). Third, the bridge (the bit between the cups) should be sitting up against your sternum and finally, make sure the straps are only doing 10-20% of the job of supporting your bust. Those are the fundamentals, and if your bra isn’t doing that – and you don’t have a fitter nearby – just go to the store with the best size selection near you and play with different band/cup combinations until you feel more comfortable.

6) There’s been a lot of attention on bras, bra fit, and bra sizes in the media lately. What do you think of campaigns like The War on Plus Four and The Bra Band Project?
Anything that sheds more light on the topic of fit is great! I love these campaigns that are positive and affirming of women. War on Plus Four addresses a worn out sizing methodology that hasn’t really worked in a long time. The Bra Band Project is all about empowerment. What’s not to like!?

7) What’s next for you, Ali? Any special projects or sequels to Busted! in the works?
Right now, I’m working on some exciting projects that are aimed at bringing the fit message to women in new ways — I’m almost ready to make the big announcement, but not quite — so I’ll keep you posted. I’ve gotten a couple of requests for follow-up books that I’m looking into, plus I continue to work with manufacturers and retailers on a variety of marketing projects. Things are busy!

Thanks so much for your time, Ali! It’s been a real pleasure talking with you.

Treacle

Treacle

Lingerie Blogger. Sugar Junkie. Sci-Fi Geek.

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