Posts in category "europe"

Opulent Eyecandy: Royal Black Couture & Corsetry

In the world of fashion, there’s always a tension between what’s practical and what’s possible. You can dream up the most extravagant, luxurious, and opulent designs, but if no buys them, then you’ll find yourself out of business in just a few short years…maybe sooner. That’s why it’s always so thrilling to me than when a designer truly goes all out and shows the world what they can do…what it means to be a master of their craft…what it means to be a couturier.

The corset above is a special commission designed and created by Royal Black Couture & Corsetry for the world famous lingerie model and photographer Morgana, also known as Threnody in Velvet. The following text is taken direction from Royal Black’s Facebook page

“This corset took me more than 150 hours to finish. It features hand-dyed antique fabric and lace ornaments, pleats, frills and drapery of organza and ragged tulle and an uncounted number of pearls and sequins.”

If ever a corset could be called a work of art, this one is. More photos of Royal Black Couture & Corsetry’s work are in the gallery below. What are your thoughts?

Coco Cavaliere Lingerie

I ran across Coco Cavaliere while visiting the Guilty Pleasures Facebook page the other day, and I’m very intrigued by this new brand. Though their splash page refers to them as exquisite corsetieres, I’m much more interested in their lacy lingerie sets and sheer babydolls. Sophisticated, luxurious, and very, very European, Coco Cavaliere is only available in Germany, France, Austria, Belgium, Luxembourg, Italy, and Greece right now, but I have a feeling we’ll be seeing them stateside very soon. What do you think of Coco Cavaliere?

Bordelle Lingerie: S/S 2012 & Bridal Collections

A sneak peek at a few looks from Bordelle’s upcoming collections.

For more details, visit Bordelle Lingerie. Click images below to enlarge.

A Review of Elle Macpherson Lingerie…From a Designer’s Point of View

By Laura:

Lux Noir
Greta

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As both a wearer and a designer of lingerie, I have a compartmentalized way of experiencing and thinking about lingerie. My love of its sensuality and playfulness–and ultimately the way it makes me FEEL–is the reason I became a lingerie designer in the first place. But my emotional appreciation of it is counterbalanced by my left-brain thoughts about it as a designer.

People seem to be entranced by what they imagine my job is: the glamour and the crazy-artist pure creativity! But I think fashion design is more akin to engineering. Thinking through construction techniques and pairing raw materials for the desired end-use is one of the most important components of designing.

So all this said, I decided to bring you my review of Elle Macpherson’s Fall collection from two points of view, Lingerie Wearer Laura and Lingerie Designer Laura. I tried on Lux Noir, a lined balconet bra and medium-coverage panty from Elle Macpherson’s main intimates collection, and Greta, an unlined demi bra and french bikini from the more decadent Obsidian collection by Elle Macpherson.

LINGERIE WEARER LAURA:
I wanted to be scientific about my review, so decided to seek an non-designer opinion on the products. I took snapshots of myself in a couple bra/panty sets and sent them to the long-distance BF for unbiased feedback.

“Number 1!!!!” was Lux Noir. I can see why it got such rave feedback. The lining gave support and a smooth silhouette, while the balconet construction provided plenty of natural lift without relying on excess padding. It felt like the best version of a natural shape and I felt sexy in a not-trying-too-hard way. The panty was more coverage than I personally prefer, but is a great, flattering option for ladies who like a more covered booty.

Greta felt super sexy! The panty was just revealing enough, but managed to stay totally in place and steer clear of the dreaded VPL. The demi bra was so demi that I was spilling out….in a good way. It was an unusually square shape, with the straps and bra-top forming almost a right angle, and this surprised me by creating an incredibly sexy frame for my decolletage….

LINGERIE DESIGNER LAURA:
Lux Noir impressed me with its fabric/trim choice and construction. I loved the luminous effect of the gold-printed lace! In this case, the gold was applied to the surface of the lace–the part away from the skin–so it wasn’t itchy at all as some lurex laces might be.

The 4 piece cup construction created an elegant series of vertical lines on the bra and a smooth shape (more seams=better contoured shape). On the panty, the V-shaped seams at the front made beautiful use of the decorative scalloped edge of the lace, while the two-layered mesh back allowed for a seamless leg opening.

Greta’s laces were gorgeous! Guipure lace is more bulky than other laces and has zero stretch–so it’s a more challenging material to design with. But here, it’s cleverly combined with detailing in stretch satin that provides enough give to compensate for the lace. In addition to its structural benefits, the combination of materials adds textural variety and interest. So sexy!

About the Fall collection for Obsidian, Creative Director Elle Macpherson explains, “ It’s the lingerie I choose when I want to feel truly special.” This, ladies, is attainable luxury. What are your favorite pieces from Elle Macpherson?

Lux Noir is available at Posh Lingerie, Tigard, OR ($68 bra, $35 panty) http://www.poshlingerie.net/
Greta is available at Brooklyn Fox Lingerie, Brooklyn, NY ($90 bra, $50 panty) http://brooklynfox.com/. For general info on Elle Macpherson Intimates, visit http://www.ellemacphersonintimates.com/.

UK Lingerie: A Travel Diary, pt. 2

By Marianne:

Part 2 of my travel diary is all about London…and a little bit of Brighton! There’s quite a bit of ground to cover so I’ll jump right into things. But if you’d like to read pt. 1 again, just click here.

Day 7/8 – Brighton
In Brighton, my sister took me on a tour of boutiques and vintage shops. On our second day there, I spent an inordinate amount of time in Ouh La La lingerie boutique, trying on beautiful bras from Aubade, Simone Perelle, Elle MacPherson, Stella McCartney, and Lise Charmel. They also stocked corsets from What Katie Did and French corsetiere Cadolle.

My customer experience there was polar opposite to every other shop I’d been to in the UK. The shop attendant was extremely nice, bringing me bra after bra in various styles and not pressuring me in the slightest to buy any of them. Bras started at about £65 (roughly $110), and while Aubade had the widest range of styles available, the Simone Perelle bra I tried on fit me by far the best. I also fell madly in love with a £99 Lise Charmel panty which I can’t remotely fathom being able to afford. I wasn’t particularly impressed with Cadolle; while their designs were quite pretty, they were clearly fashion/bedroom corsets, and useless for actually reducing the waist.

The only downsides to this shop were the inconsistent range of sizes available, and the fact that most of their items were intended to be sold as sets. Of course it’s a challenge for small shops to keep such a broad range of stock on hand, so the problem is relatively understandable, but it was a bit frustrating that the smallest corset in stock was a 22, when I normally wear an 18 or 20. In the end, I just went home with a pair of stockings. Though I didn’t make it there, apparently Brighton is home to another lovely lingerie shop by the name of She Said.

Day 9, 12 – London
You were waiting for it, weren’t you? You knew I couldn’t go to England without going to London, and I couldn’t go to London without going to FairyGothMother, aka Lulu and Lush. I also checked out What Katie Did and Camden.

I was quite eager to finally see Lulu and Lush’s boutique, and luckily it was geographically logical to visit it first. Return of the British customer service here, although the older woman who rung me up at the end was quite friendly and helpful. Anyway, as to the shop itself, it’s quite large and there was a lot to take in. Oh, and nowhere near enough dressing rooms, as I found out the hard way. The quality of garments was a bit of a range, some of the fabrications were cheaper synthetics but then there were also nice silky pieces as well. I think the Kiss Me Deadly line was my favorite that they carried.

The corsets were from a variety of makers, and I was impressed with the range of styles and sizes offered. The construction all looked good quality, though I was surprised that the lacing on the house brand was a stretchy type, which makes the procedure more of a challenge. My big disappointment was that the corsets, lovely as they were, weren’t close to curvy enough for me. However, most of their clients probably don’t have my dramatic hip spring and waist training experience, so I think it’s just a difference in their market rather than an actual flaw in the products.

In the end, I came home with… a lot of stuff, including a very cute new bathing suit. Most of it was pulled from their extensive sale rack. As an aside, all of the Lulu & Lush purchases looked way better before they got crumpled in my suitcase.

What Katie Did is tucked off of Portobello Road. The shop space is small without feeling crowded, despite the quantity of items there. The shop girls are friendly and helpful when it comes to assisting you with the merchandise and assessing the fit. All of the designs were very pretty (with the sole exception of a synthetic satin that I thought was cheap-looking), but I had the same problem with the corsets as at Lulu and Lush. They were gorgeous, and the hipline was lovely, but the ribs and hips weren’t spacious enough for the waist reductions I’m used to in my Pop Antique and Dark Garden corsets.

The bras were what really impressed me, and in the end I bought two of them. The previous collection was marked down 75%, and by pure luck I was drawn to those designs anyway. Do note that as you cross the pond, your bra size will probably change – Americans purchasing internationally, add a letter to your cup size; Brits, subtract. As mentioned, in the states, I am a 30C, but I generally buy 32Bs because it’s easier and cheaper (yes, I’m bad). Because WKD is cut from vintage styles, the 32 band is a snugger fit which worked well on me. In one style, I even ended up taking home a perfectly fitting 32D. No matter what the garment, I think it’s a good idea to use your “normal” size only as a launching point, and not fixate on the numbers and letters on the tag. If it fits, it fits.

My purchases from WKD were tidily wrapped in tissue paper, then slipped into a reusable What Katie Did cotton tote bag. Below you can see it with my blue satin lingerie bags from Lulu and Lush. I think the reusable branded packaging is a nice touch.

My last stop on this first London trip was to Camden, where I bought fancy tights. Flirt is a brand which sells fun tights with prints made from photographs and comic book panels. I also picked up some lacy fishnet tights. Lily J is another shop Lingerie Addicts may find worth visiting; while the stock is regular apparel, the look is built on the layering of lacy feminine pieces with soft drapes, very much in the lingerie ethos. Most of the colors are very soft and classic, ivory and grey and some black. I picked up a simple sheer black slip from there, since I’d been wanting one. Later I also found a fitted black slip from H&M, which featured lace trim and zig-zag stitch detail. You can see the slips together below.



On our second day trip to London, I didn’t do any shopping. I did, however, do some modeling and styled two lovely lingerie looks. First, I did a boudoir-esque shoot with portrait photographer Karolina Marek, wearing a Pop Antique corset and embroidered-top mesh stockings. I also shot on location with Yun Ki, and got to see more of historic London. The below look features a barely-visible Pop Antique ribbon corset, double-backseam stockings, and one of my new What Katie Did bras.

PS: Americans, save yourself some embarrassment and awkward moments: don’t forget that in the UK, garters are suspenders, panties are pants, and pants are trousers.

All in all, it was a lovely trip. It was my first time really trying on high-quality bras, and I even brought a few nice ones home with me. I spent some quality time with some wonderful colleagues. I got to see beautiful corsets, new and old. What were your experiences with the shops I visited? What shops and experiences did I miss out on? Would you be interested in a (shorter) write-up of a few must-see shops in San Francisco? Let me know in the comments!

Designer Interviews: Ayten Gasson of Ayten Gasson Lingerie

If you’ve been a reader since March, the lingerie at the top of the page probably looks a little familiar to you. This gorgeous, vintage-inspired, rose silk teddy was last seen in the article 10 Lingerie Sets You Need This Season, and the fact that I haven’t been able to forget it is exactly why I invited Ayten Gasson to the The Lingerie Addict for a Designer Interview. In our interview, Ayten talks about why became a lingerie designer, the motivation behind starting her new eco-friendly range, some of the challenges of being in an independent designer in a competitive, global industry.

1) What did you do before you became a lingerie designer, and what made you want to design lingerie?
I studied fashion at Central Saint Martin’s in London, and had hoped I’d secure a job in the industry once graduating. Once the realisation hit me that most of the trade, especially textiles, had moved aboard I decided to try and start up my own brand. I had grown up around designers and makers, my mother and aunt both being successful in their field.

I knew the importance of the UK fashion industry from an early age and was disheartened to find so many of the factories I’d known as a child had closed down as people sourced cheaper alternatives and cheaper labour. I was also passionate about lingerie, and worked in a well known lingerie chain for 6 years while studying, so knew my thongs from my girdles! I decided a lingerie label would link together my two passions and would be the perfect platform to showcase all the beautiful trims that are, and were, made in the UK.

2) You recently began a new ethical range (pictured above). What prompted your expansion into that area? 
I have always tried to be an ethical brand, and had a firm commitment to sourcing and manufacturing in the UK, and supporting our workers. I also trim all my garments with vintage Nottingham lace from the old lace mill. I loved the idea of being able to recycle these trims and make them desirable again. I also wanted to introduce a new generation to what the UK was once famous for around the world. I knew I was trying to be as ethical as possible, and saw introducing the organic silks and peace silks as the natural next step.

I have also just had my first child, and become more aware of the environment I am raising him in. I’m really proud of the new collection and hope I can expand it over the next few seasons.


3) The UK has one of the fastest growing lingerie industries. What distinguishes the UK market from the US and French markets? 
I have a lot of respect for designers in the US and Europe, and have noticed more and more are manufacturing in their own country. I can only presume that the industry is growing over here because of the amazing industrial history we have here. Many little towns, such as Amersham in Buckinghamshire, have a history in lace design and production. That’s something that someone with an interest in lingerie design would find inspiring. We also have some amazing universities and colleges which have popular contour courses.

4) What are some of the challenges of being an independent designer…and what are some of the rewards? 
One of the greatest challenges is trying to make the brand stand out from all the other new and old brands in the UK. Everyone has a specific USP but its hard work trying to get yours noticed. We are a small brand, so it’s hard to compete with a larger brand who has someone specifically working on PR.

The best reward is when you get some positive feedback from a customer. I try and answer all our customer comments and requests myself and it is lovely to hear why they have bought a specific piece. We have also had a fantastic response on our new eco range, which highlighted the gap in the market and lets me know I am listening to the people who buy and wear my lingerie.


5) Your collections have a definite vintage flair. What’s your inspiration? 
Each season I chose a very traditional theme and spend weeks designing and sampling with my assistant Sarah. One season it might be traditional English flowers (with many hours spent in Kew Gardens!), while our SS12 was inspired by vintage penny sweets (with many hours spent eating penny sweets!)

6) What kind of woman is an Ayten Gasson woman? 
Without sounding corny, I hope every woman finds something special within each range. I have pieces in the collection that I would wear out, my friends who have a very ‘burlesque’ style find items which work amazingly for them, then my mother loves the nightys! I think anyone can find something they can make their own!

7) What’s your most favorite piece you’ve designed so far? 
The Peace Silk Camisole Set. It ticks every box and makes me feel good about what I am doing for a living! Promoting ethical fashion, making wearable pieces, showcasing amazing vintage laces and manufacturing in the UK. I also love the Annabel Kimono which Sarah co designed. It is the most wearable yet special item of silk I could ever have in my wardrobe!

8) And, most importantly, where can we buy your stuff? 
www.aytengasson.com, high end independent lingerie boutiques (such as Lulu & Lush and Bordello), and from August 2011 you can buy our AW11 collection from luxury department store Le Bon Marche, Paris.

Thank you so much for your time, Ayten! Your lingerie is gorgeous.

The Look for Less: Bordelle vs. Frederick’s of Hollywood

On the left side, we’ve got Bordelle’s webbed suspender belt from their one of their very first collections back in 2009. Originally retailing at £89 (approximately $142), this is one of the pieces that put the UK brand on the luxury lingerie map.

On the right side, we have Frederick’s of Hollywood’s Runway Burlesque Chemise, an unabashed remake which retails at a somewhat more budget-friendly $38 (and offers a matching bra & g-string if you want to complete the look).

What do you think, fellow addicts?  Is this strappy, bondage-inspired garter belt a purchase…or pass?