Posts in category "custom"

Corset Style Watch: Chic & Sheer

Sheer corsetry, a study in contrasts with barely-there fabrications and sinuous steel structure.  Dark Garden’s “Risqué” ready-to-wear corset, balancing sheer mesh and silk satin.

Corset trends are gentle and slow-moving, taking years instead of weeks to build momentum.  Today’s post looks at several chic and sheer corsets, with a focus on the handmade.  Sheer corsets wonderfully exemplify the unique outer/under aesthetic of modern corsetry.  In their lightness, they are often more comfortable (and thin) for wearing all-day as a foundation garment.  Lace overlays look striking as the lace may appear to simultaneously float and sculpt, with the strength layer near-invisible.  The sheerness layers well over clothing, particularly complementary prints, emphasizing dramatic corseted silhouettes yet without the heavy, rigidly corseted look.
In the interest of fairness, I have listed these cinched sweeties in alphabetical order by maker.

Crikey Aphrodite’s lacy sheer corsets would be unquestionably perfect for brides but also style well with feminine daywear looks.
Photo © Clare Coulter Photography

Crikey Aphrodite, Glasgow
Bespoke Corsets
Sheer corsets are the perfect addition to Crikey Aphrodite’s beautiful, feminine line-up of custom corsets, which are popular with local brides.  The sheer styles sometimes have additional textural detailing, such as latticed ribbons on the hips.

Dark Garden’s custom Adelaide corset, a lacy, sheer, cupped style.
Photo © Joel Aron

Dark Garden, San Francisco
Unique Corsetry & Bridal Couture
Dark Garden’s first sheer style was the Adelaide: a fully-custom cupped corset, made to look as if it were structured entirely by its lace overlay.  Following its success, Dark Garden started offering its classic ready-to-wear styles in black and pale peach mesh with silk-duchess satin contrast under the name “Risqué.”  The Risqué is also available with lace overlay, and includes a back panel and 3 pairs of garters.

Pop Antique’s “Flirt” combines a sheer body with quirky contrasting details.
Photo © Andres Razo

Pop Antique, San Francisco
Flirt Corset
Full disclosure: Pop Antique is my line.  The “Flirt” is a sheer corset which it also features a cupped bust, detachable mini panniers at the hips, optional contrast silk fabrication and waist tape, and lacing detail.  I love wearing my Flirt over a teal and purple rose print silk jersey sheath dress to really highlight the pop color and sheer texture.

Sparklewren’s beautiful sheer cincher is one of her few ready to wear styles. Limited edition.
Photo © Catherine Day Photography

Sparklewren, Birmingham
Limited Edition Sheer Cincher
Sparklewren has other sheer designs, but I particularly adore these tiny ready-to-wear cinchers.  They have such a perfectly balanced design, from the barely-there sweetheart silhouette to the artfully placed lace.  She currently has them listed on Etsy, where they are also available in white.

Velda Lauder’s Black Mesh Underbust, ahead of the curve (pun intended!) on the sheer corsetry trend.


Velda Lauder
, London
Underbust Black Mesh Corset
Given this weekend’s tragic news about Velda Lauder’s passing, I don’t know how much longer this corset will be available for purchase, but this incarnation of the sheer style is particularly noteworthy as an early adopter.  When I first saw this corset, it was from an old Lingerie Addict post, Corsetieres & Corset Makers: Off the Rack vs. Custom Made, from 2008!

What Katie Did’s “Cabaret” corset is a sheer version of their classic Morticia underbust.

What Katie Did, London
Cabaret Sheer Morticia Corset
The same pattern as their popular Morticia corset, Cabaret is made of double-layered sheer organza with satin casings, and available in peach or black.

Which is your favorite of the above styles, and why?  What corset trends have you noticed gaining momentum lately?  Please share your thoughts in the comments below!

3 Up-and-Coming Corsetieres to Watch in 2013

While some old favorites never lose their charm (Dark Garden, Electra Designs, Sparklewren), there are some intriguing newer names that I’ve discovered in the past year.  The following three designers have impressed me with their distinctive, fresh aesthetics, innovative detailing, and technical craft.  Here are the corsetieres I’m looking forward to watching in the coming year.

Alicia Rose
United Kingdom

Following Alicia Rose, I get a sense of delicate femininity: girlishness, if you will (look at all the subtle sweetheart motifs in the images above).  Lots of sheer fabrications, intermixed with an unusual long-strand embroidery in stark, vibrant contrast.  There’s a definite sense of vintage inspiration and bridal styling, but paired with a chic sense of whimsy.

˜˜˜

Neon Duchess
England

Neon Duchess, aka corsetiere Hannah Light, plays a lot with texture and textured silhouette.  Fabrications are layered within panels or stacked in placements such as the hip fins, further dramatizing the already striking corseted silhouette.  In particular, the use of metallic leather seems to be something of a signature.

˜˜˜

Purdy Corsetry
New Zealand


Purdy Corsetry’s approach is a perhaps bit more classic than the above two designers, but I like the subtle twist she puts on traditional looks, and her craftmanship seems top notch, as evidenced by the clean finishing of the miniature heart shaped cutouts.  Purdy’s work also demonstrates intriguing diversity: the graceful, elegant fanned bone channels contrasting with the hard-edged corset spine lacing (I wish I’d thought of it!) or Gaultier-esque anatomically inspired pieces.

What do you think of these new corsetieres?  Whose work are you looking forward to following in the new year?

Sweet Treats: Craveable Lingerie To Indulge In This Holiday Season

‘Tis the season of obligatory spending & gluttonous indulgences!

Every year the month of December rolls around and throws the masses into a tailspin full of retail mania, holiday stress & an abundance of high-caloric binging. And each year this fateful tradition begins earlier then ever, starting in October with Halloween and taking us through Thanksgiving dinner, onto Hanukkah, Christmas & Kwanza. By the time we ring in the New Year our bellies are over-stuffed & our consciences are wrought with guilt. But rather then declare the usual resolution of a new fitness regime (while relying on our Spanx to get us by in the meantime) why not find an alternative way to control our cravings & keep those extra few pounds at bay?

Today there are many ways in which you do not have to completely give up on the traditional holiday delights & can still enjoy the spirit of the season while maintaining your dress size (and dignity). My personal favorite choice is to indulge in some delectable themed intimate apparel & sleepwear. Because what better place to satisfy your cravings then with lingerie?

Below is a list of my top 8 tasty food-inspired pieces for this holiday.

1) It Takes All Sorts bullet bra & knickers by Frantic About Francis

This retro inspired set by Frantic About Francis is printed with confectionary goodness, guaranteed to make your mouth water. The licorice printed cotton mixed with soft, candy pink mesh & lemon yellow bows add sweet & feminine touches to help any girl feel like a savory 50’s pin up. Available at www.franticaboutfrances.bigcartel.com

2) Drawstring Candy Spill Pajama Pants by Dylan’s Candy Bar

What better to keep cozy this season then in super soft pajama pants? These candy coated drawstring pants by sweet shop favorite Dylan’s Candy Bar are a fun & playful way to satisfy those cravings without straying far from your diet. Available at www.dylanscandybar.com

3) Fast Food crew socks by Socksmith

Visually pig-out this season with the hamburger & fries printed crew socks by Socksmith. These junk food socks will allow you to satisfy your cravings without the artery clogging consequences of today’s fast food. Consider it a healthy alternative to the real thing, sure to keep you satiated & content. Available at www.socksmith.com

4) Sloth Cupcake Bow Burlesque Corset by Madame Dulcibelle

This steel-boned bespoke corset from Madame Dulcibelle is a decadent treat for anyone with a sweet tooth! The Marie Antoinette-inspired cupcake print is accented with satin trim & bow appliques that emphasize a woman’s curves & gives the illusion of a teeny tiny waistline. Available at www.etsy.com/shop/MadameDulcibelle

5) Candyland Tights by Celeste Stein

These saccharine covered, photo printed tights by Celeste Stein are a perfect way to show off your sweet side. The rainbow clusters of candy hearts are a funky way to flaunt your legs this season and will make them look good enough to eat. Available at www.electricalice.bigcartel.com

6) Cupcake Print cropped cami top & short set by Coquette

Show your flirty side with oversized cupcakes & lace trim. This cute little cami set by Coquette is the perfect desert choice after any meal. Give into temptation and savor the whipped icing & rainbow sprinkles without any fear of regret. Available at www.pinupdoll.com

7) Gummy Bears knee socks by Sock It To Me

Next time the munchies strike try satisfying them with these treats for your feet. These nostalgic knee-highs by Sock It To Me feature adorable, dancing gummy bears in an array of flavors just begging to be eaten. Completely sugar-free, calorie-free, and guilt-free! Available at www.sockittome.com

8) Cupcake Parade flannel pajama set by P.J. Salvage

Avoid tipping the scale in these tasty cupcake pajamas by P.J. Salvage. These boyfriend-style pj’s feature mouth-watering gourmet cupcakes in an array of flavors & designs. And the cozy fabric will leave you snug as a bug with sweet dreams all night long. Available at www.pjsalvage-shop.com

What other lingerie items are you craving this season? How do you make it through the holiday season each year?

Kristina

Kristina

Lingerie Designer specializing in fashion & trend.

More Posts

At a Snail’s Pace: Starting the Lingerie Brand ‘Karolina Laskowska’

The first lingerie set that I ever made, January 2011

Since I learned to sew in early 2011, I’ve turned into a bit of a lingerie making machine; the space under my bed is literally stuffed full with boxes of bras and knickers.  Those of you who’ve been following my antics will know that it all started in an attempt to get a place at De Montfort University for the Contour Fashion degree – a course that specialises in lingerie design and, quite frankly, my dream degree.

My first foray into lingerie (handsewn!)

I’ve always enjoyed making things – my mother used to joke that I was a ‘factory’.  Once the lingerie obsession took hold, it was pretty much inevitable that I’d be chaining myself to the sewing machine.  What made this obsession different to my previous ones, though (take greeting cards and candles as an example), was that it gave me a step into the fashion world.  People started to notice the creations that I shared online – or, more relevantly, photographers started to notice them.  They liked what I was doing and soon enough I was collaborating with people whose work I’d previously only admired from afar, well before I’d even started my degree.

Padded silk chiffon bra with freshwater pearls.  Model is Sundal, photographed by Simon Crinks

It may be strange to admit, but seeing such gorgeous and professional photos of my designs gave me a sense of confidence and almost validated my decision to study lingerie.  It also meant that more people saw my work  – soon enough I was seeing my work reblogged all over the place and people contacting me to make things for them.  The idea of starting my own ‘brand’ began to play on my mind…

Yet it was an event at the beginning of this Summer that really made my mind up.  I’d been told repeatedly by all sorts off people in the industry that starting a brand was a terrible idea, that there was no money in it, that my ideas weren’t original… Yet one day I received an email from a certain boutique asking if I did wholesale.

The pentagram thong playsuit and frame bra, two of the items requested for wholesale.  Model is Miss Miranda, photography by Anna Swiczeniuk.

When I first read it, I wasn’t too hopeful.  I’d had enquiries before but they’d all fallen through.  After all, I wasn’t a proper ‘brand’. I didn’t have anything established. As far as I was concerned, I was just a girl on the internet who occasionally posted photos with some knickers that she’d made.  Yet, as it turned out, this was a serious enquiry – I began to consider it, and a burst of unseasonal confidence made me agree to it – styles and quantities were discussed, and before I knew it, I’d given a delivery date and had a deposit in my bank account.

Then the realisation hit me that I was responsible for making 26 garments to retail standard.  As did the realisation that I was responsible for all of the small things that come with clothing in retail – labels, tags, packaging… All of a sudden it seemed like a mountain of work.  I didn’t have time to hang around.

Straight away, I set about buying materials, designing labels and ordering samples. And then I set about the real hard work – grading my samples into different sizes and making sure that they fit. My poor friends had to suffer my incessant requests to cover them in elastic straps, all in a bid to make sure that garments actually looked good on the body!  Eventually, I’d got everything into a state that I was happy with – lingerie that I’d want to own.

Copious amounts of components and elastic

And so, production began. For several weeks, I confined myself to my room.  I got through literally hundreds of metres of elastic and endless amounts of gold rings and sliders.  I seemed to have a panic attack nearly every day (the worst being when I thought my sewing machine had broken, with just one week to go), yet eventually, I managed to get everything sewn.

Pentagram thongs, packaged up with instructions attached

Soon enough, I was labelling everything and packing it up in plastic bags, ready for shipping.  It was quite a surreal experience, seeing everything packaged up and actually looking professional.  As if these garments actually belonged in a shop.  Before I knew it, I was handing a big box full of knickers over to a FedEx man, ready to be shipped to a boutique far, far away.

Packaged frame bras

I spent the next few days worrying – what if they didn’t like what I’d made?  What if it was all a big mistake?  Luckily, my worrying was all assuaged soon enough. I received a lovely email from the retailer, and soon enough I realised – if my designs are considered good enough for an actual shop, they’re good enough for the rest of the world too. Starting my own brand – the dream I’d had for a while but was always a bit too scared to pursue – was actually happening.

My ready-to-wear range of lingerie

So what can you expect from my brand? Well, that’s a question I’ve been puzzling over myself, and one that I still haven’t thought of a proper answer to! I’ve ended up deciding to have three different ‘ranges’ of products – with the main theme running through them being that it’s lingerie that I’d like to own myself.

Some of the kimono silks that I can’t wait to start working with

The first is my ‘ready-to-wear’ range which is based around my most popular designs – strappy frame bras and my pentagram playsuit.  The second is the ‘limited edition’ range – this will contain the one-off designs that I get most excited about, using rare and luxurious fabrics and embellishment.  My current plan is to use my recently acquired vintage kimono silks – each piece will be truly unique as I only have so much of each fabric!  I’m also dreaming of one day getting my hands on some couture lace and pairing them with some of my more bondage-inspired influences…

An example of a one-off design

Finally, I want to give my customers of having something truly unique, made just for them – bespoke lingerie sets.  Bespoke lingerie is something that I can get incredibly excited and passionate about – there’s something so satisfying creating something for an individual, knowing it’s going to something truly special for them.  The experiences I’ve had so far with people approaching me for bespoke lingerie have all been wonderful, and I want more people to know it’s a service that’s available instead of just being scared to ask!

I’ve finally got round to making my own website, finally giving people a chance to buy my garments and to showcase my work so far – from my one-off designs to all the lingerie and fashion photoshoots I’ve been lucky enough to participate in.  Everything that I’m doing is still at an incredibly small scale – after all, I’m only just about to go into my second year of university.  I know with all the work that I’ll have to do in the forthcoming year means that I simply won’t have time to expand things, on top of which there’s no way I’d be able to get the money together to have things manufactured in a factory!  Yet I’d still like to think that I’ve made my first small step into joining the lingerie industry.  I know it’s not something that I’ll be able to pursue at any serious business level until I’ve finished my studies, but until then, it’s a good feeling to know that people genuinely want to buy my lingerie and admire my work!

As a thank you to all of the readers who’ve been following my work, I’d like to offer a 15% discount code for my shop on all individual items!  Code: lingerie-love (expires on 09-12-12, not valid on sets or bespoke orders).

Readers:  What do you think of my foray into becoming a lingerie brand?  Are my designs something that you’d like to own yourself?

Karolina

Karolina

Student at De Montfort University's world-renowned Contour Fashion course. Makes many knickers in her spare time.

More Posts - Website

8 Corsetieres to Follow on Instagram

Freshly laced ribbon corset by Pop Antique on Instagram.

It seems that 75% of what I do with my iPhone is check Instagram. Luckily, I can combine my idle habit with research by following my corsetmaking colleagues, thereby continually staying informed and inspired. What I love about Instagram is that it emphasizes a certain spontaneity and behind-the-scenes feel, and is also a bit more intimate.  Unfortunately, a couple of my favorite corsetieres aren’t on Instagram.  Conversely, this isn’t a directory of all the corsetieres on Instagram; I’m mostly emphasizing those who consistently post their work, but not by simply re-posting professional images thereof.   For a true backstage peek at handmade corsetry, these are the corsetieres I’ve been following.

If you don’t have Instagram, you can view any user’s public feed at http://web.stagram.com/n/username.

Sheer corset in progress by UK-based Alicia Rose on Instagram.

Alicia Rose
@iamaliciarose: Freelance lingerie designer and corsetiere. UK-based, with a great eye for composition of both her insta-shots and the designs she previews on the platform. As well as these works in progress and studio snapshots, expect to see florals and English pastoral views. I only recently started following Alicia, but am really loving what I’ve seen thus far.

Corset laid flat, by Alige Corsetry in Milan.

Alige Corsetry
@Alige: Italian corsetiere. Lots and lots of studio shots, from works-in-progress to samples on live models; also makes accessories and other lingerie.

Crikey Aphrodite
@crikeyaphrodite: Corsetiere, new to Instagram, but not to corsets. There’s a definite emphasis on cat pictures, but maybe if we all go show her some appreciation she’ll show us more workshop tidbits, along with the admittedly-adorable cat.

Metallic leather corset gown by Hannah Light of Neon Duchess.

Hannah Light
@hannahlight: Neon Duchess on Facebook. A comfy mix of workroom and personal shots populate her feed. Her corset aesthetic is an interesting, quirky and curvaceous blend.

Hand detailing in progress on this runway-ready custom corset by Autumn Adamme of Dark Garden.

Autumn Adamme
@missdarkgarden: Designer/proprietress of corset legend Dark Garden. Owned by a Russian Blue (corsetieres are typically a bunch of cat ladies, if you haven’t gathered). New styles, custom ensembles for fancy events, and the occasional bit of found inspiration accumulate here. For more Dark Garden goodness and then some, you may also want to follow @tulitulip, @hollybobisuthi, @kalicodelafey, and @kristin argue.

A stunningly embellished classic red and black ensemble by Sweet Carousel Corsetry.

Elise Scarytale
@sweetcarousel
: Sweet Carousel Corsetry.  Inspiration, lifestyle, personal style, and a healthy proportion of workroom snapshots with the occasional professionally shot photo thrown in.  Stylistically, Sweet Carousel works the hard/soft dichotomy pretty comfortably, executing styles with lace and bows with the same ease as those with studded leather.

Custom patterns and corsetry supplies are offered by Sew Curvy. Here, Julia Bremble carefully places lace accents on a custom patterned underbust.

Julia Bremble
@marmaladekiss: Perhaps better known as Sew Curvy Corset Kits. Corsets in progress, new materials for the web shop, and personal snapshots mingle in her feed.

Me, in a Pop Antique knit corset and layered handkerchief hem skirt ensemble at the opening of the De Young museum’s Jean Paul Gaultier exhibit.

Pop Antique
@popantique: Lastly, if you are interested in BTS shots of Pop Antique, Dollhouse Bettie, and Dark Garden laced with doses of cat belly, tea porn, and San Francisco scenery, you can find me on Instagram as (what else?) @popantique.  I’ve already warned you that I’m pretty addicted to IG, but I at least try to maintain a certain level of aesthetic standard on my shots.

The Lingerie Addict herself on Instagram, preparing for a shoot with Viva Van Story.

Stay tuned for future installments! I’ve got plenty more designers, boutique owners, and classic addicts in my feed that I’d love to share with you…  If you’re not following her yet, “The” Addict is of course @thelingerieaddictWho do you love to follow? Please share your favorite lingerie-related Instagrammers in the comments; I’d love to scope out some new eye candy.