Posts in category "couture"

Corset Style Watch: Chic & Sheer

Sheer corsetry, a study in contrasts with barely-there fabrications and sinuous steel structure.  Dark Garden’s “Risqué” ready-to-wear corset, balancing sheer mesh and silk satin.

Corset trends are gentle and slow-moving, taking years instead of weeks to build momentum.  Today’s post looks at several chic and sheer corsets, with a focus on the handmade.  Sheer corsets wonderfully exemplify the unique outer/under aesthetic of modern corsetry.  In their lightness, they are often more comfortable (and thin) for wearing all-day as a foundation garment.  Lace overlays look striking as the lace may appear to simultaneously float and sculpt, with the strength layer near-invisible.  The sheerness layers well over clothing, particularly complementary prints, emphasizing dramatic corseted silhouettes yet without the heavy, rigidly corseted look.
In the interest of fairness, I have listed these cinched sweeties in alphabetical order by maker.

Crikey Aphrodite’s lacy sheer corsets would be unquestionably perfect for brides but also style well with feminine daywear looks.
Photo © Clare Coulter Photography

Crikey Aphrodite, Glasgow
Bespoke Corsets
Sheer corsets are the perfect addition to Crikey Aphrodite’s beautiful, feminine line-up of custom corsets, which are popular with local brides.  The sheer styles sometimes have additional textural detailing, such as latticed ribbons on the hips.

Dark Garden’s custom Adelaide corset, a lacy, sheer, cupped style.
Photo © Joel Aron

Dark Garden, San Francisco
Unique Corsetry & Bridal Couture
Dark Garden’s first sheer style was the Adelaide: a fully-custom cupped corset, made to look as if it were structured entirely by its lace overlay.  Following its success, Dark Garden started offering its classic ready-to-wear styles in black and pale peach mesh with silk-duchess satin contrast under the name “Risqué.”  The Risqué is also available with lace overlay, and includes a back panel and 3 pairs of garters.

Pop Antique’s “Flirt” combines a sheer body with quirky contrasting details.
Photo © Andres Razo

Pop Antique, San Francisco
Flirt Corset
Full disclosure: Pop Antique is my line.  The “Flirt” is a sheer corset which it also features a cupped bust, detachable mini panniers at the hips, optional contrast silk fabrication and waist tape, and lacing detail.  I love wearing my Flirt over a teal and purple rose print silk jersey sheath dress to really highlight the pop color and sheer texture.

Sparklewren’s beautiful sheer cincher is one of her few ready to wear styles. Limited edition.
Photo © Catherine Day Photography

Sparklewren, Birmingham
Limited Edition Sheer Cincher
Sparklewren has other sheer designs, but I particularly adore these tiny ready-to-wear cinchers.  They have such a perfectly balanced design, from the barely-there sweetheart silhouette to the artfully placed lace.  She currently has them listed on Etsy, where they are also available in white.

Velda Lauder’s Black Mesh Underbust, ahead of the curve (pun intended!) on the sheer corsetry trend.


Velda Lauder
, London
Underbust Black Mesh Corset
Given this weekend’s tragic news about Velda Lauder’s passing, I don’t know how much longer this corset will be available for purchase, but this incarnation of the sheer style is particularly noteworthy as an early adopter.  When I first saw this corset, it was from an old Lingerie Addict post, Corsetieres & Corset Makers: Off the Rack vs. Custom Made, from 2008!

What Katie Did’s “Cabaret” corset is a sheer version of their classic Morticia underbust.

What Katie Did, London
Cabaret Sheer Morticia Corset
The same pattern as their popular Morticia corset, Cabaret is made of double-layered sheer organza with satin casings, and available in peach or black.

Which is your favorite of the above styles, and why?  What corset trends have you noticed gaining momentum lately?  Please share your thoughts in the comments below!

Lingerie school: the corset and basque project

Design by Karolina Laskowska: backstage at the catwalk show

As usual, the end of term at lingerie school (ak.a. the Contour Fashion course at De Montfort University) saw every student in a state of panic – deadlines were starting to loom from all angles and stress was mounting!  Our final assignment was the corset & basque project – a rather self-explanatory project that required us to design, pattern cut and sew a corset and basque, with an extra bit of pressure – our class also had to organise and present a fashion show with our final designs! As unfortunate as it was that you all missed the catwalk, I thought I’d make up for it as best as I could by sharing some of my classmates’ and my own designs and explaining our inspirations behind them. Enjoy!

Karolina Laskowska

On the catwalk, photo by Andy Espin

Sketchbook work

Experimental photography

Idea sketches

Textile development – appliqué and flossing

Illustrations of final designs

Using the colour black is my comfort zone when it comes to design, so I really wanted to push myself and embrace colours in this project. I began by looking at flowers; orchids with their tropical hues, the process of decay in cut flowers and finally the surreal colours within Jiang Zhi’s photographic series ‘Love Letters’, where beautiful flower arrangements are doused in methylated spirits and set alight, surrounding them in an intensely beautiful blue flame.  I was also greatly influenced by my Summer internship with Sparklewren corsetry – I’m still in awe of Jenni’s beautiful use of lace appliqué and had been dying to use the technique on some of my own work. My final designs ended up far more colourful than I could have ever anticipated – and I’m very pleased to say I’m incredibly happy with the final garments and how they looked on the catwalk!

Charlotte Spence

Final corset on the catwalk

Sketchbook and textile development

Sketchbook development

Sketchbook development

Final design illustrations

Corset details

Charlotte Spence’s designs were originally inspired by Summer Lupins, pastel shades and the blending of colours.  The main fabric for her corset was a hand dyed brocade that incorporated hand dyed pleats. She wanted to use ribboning as an embellishment, which led to her studying hand carved candles and opening the pleats into organic shapes to create interesting lines on her corset.  The corset’s shape originated from a 1885 sports corset pattern, with the eyelets supposedly ‘aerating’ the body.

Emily Roberts

Final corset on the catwalk

Final basque on the catwalk

Initial inspiration

Sketchbook development

Sketchbook development

Emily was inspired by a trip to Barcelona and its amazing architecture, particularly Gaudi’s work and traditional Spanish buildings.  She focused on metalwork and recreated the aesthetic by using lace with embellishment.

Samantha Thorburn

Final garment on the catwalk

Sketchbook development

Design development

Design development

Final garment details

Samantha’s designs were inspired by the characters Odette and Odile from Swan Lake, after seeing the Birmingham Royal Ballet perform the ballet. She also went to see the collection of historical ballet costumes at the Royal Opera house and was particularly taken with the embroidered details on the costumes, as well as the stories and personalities of the characters.  Her catwalk basque represented the character of Odette.

Akaibi Vine

Final garments backstage

Catwalk back views

Sketchbook development

Textile development

Design development

Final designs

Final garment details

Akaibi’s initial inspiration came from a visit to photographer Tim Walker’s ‘Storyteller’ exhibition and the the Disney inspired Christmas window displays at British department store Harrods. She wanted to create a modern twist on fairytales – not just the characters and stories but the backdrops, costumes and atmosphere created when modern artists turn their hand to these classic tales. She explored the idea of using a whitework (a type of embroidery), being more inspired by textures and finishes than colours or prints. For her final garments she laminated various fabrics and worked onto them with beading and ribbon work. The longline basque and corset worn with a skirt are both nods to the gowns of the Disney princesses with a modern finish.

As manic and crazy as the catwalk day, we just about managed to all survive! We all managed to pull together to create a fantastic show that somehow made all of the tears and stress worth it. I’m incredibly proud of what our class managed to achieve and it’s set a very high standard for the rest of the year’s work!

Readers: What do you think of our final designs? Have you ever had your own catwalk experiences?

Karolina

Karolina

Student at De Montfort University's world-renowned Contour Fashion course. Makes many knickers in her spare time.

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September Lingerie Adventures: What Katie Did, Victoria’s Secret, Sparklewren, and More!

September always seems to be my busiest month.  Once again, it’s been crammed full of lingerie happenings.  As well as being inundated with orders (following the launch of my brand last month), I’ve been juggling lingerie events and preparations to move cities!  It’s been an exhausting month but worth every moment.  Here’s a few of my favourite adventures, I hope you enjoy them!

Clockwise from the left – SS13 including the new highwaisted bikini and Morticia corset, Miss Miranda and Sophie St Villier’s burlesque routine

My lingerie month began with an invitation to What Katie Did’s fabulous AW12 collection launch – a delightful afternoon of fabulous fashion shows and some rather delicious WKD cupcakes.  A particular highlight of the event was the SS13 preview show – my personal favourites including a red and peach colourway for the Morticia corset and a delightful highwaisted bikini with side cut outs.  We were also treated to a fabulous burlesque performance courtesy of Miss Miranda and Sophie St Villier – I was very taken with Miss Miranda’s polkadot seamed stockings and ended up picking up my own pair!

Inside Victoria’s Secret Bond Street boutique – angel wings and all

Before leaving London, I knew I had to go and see what all the fuss was about with Victoria’s Secret.  They’d opened their Bond Street boutique amidst a flurry of controversy and speculation and I was itching to see it for myself.  My first impressions were exactly what I expected: it’s glamorous, attention-grabbing and very, very ‘American’.  The décor is all black and pink gloss and chandeliers, with lingerie covering literally every available surface.  It was a little overwhelming – the themes of each room were a vague at times and the designer collection left my jaw dragging along the floor – though not for the right reasons.

Some of the ‘Designer Collection’

With a premium price, the designer collection seemed average at best, with the lingerie being poorly constructed and offering incredibly limited sizing.  I did wonder why they’d even bothered to include it – after all, the department store ‘Fenwick’s’ is just across the road and offers the crème de la crème of lingerie (Carine Gilson, Chantal Thomass and La Perla just to name a few) – and often for a less intimidating price tag.  Additionally, the mainline products seemed to have an unnecessarily high mark-up – it seemed like the average bra on offer was around £30, which seems a little ridiculous considering the British high street offers multiple identical products for around £10.  To be fair to VS, the customer service was impressive  - sales assistants could be found everywhere and they were all incredibly happy to help and discuss the products.

I was a little disconcerted by their infamous fitting service (having a tape measure wrapped around the top of your bust on the shop floor and then being offered a less-than-accurate size).  Nevertheless, armed with my fitting card, I explored the shop in a bid to find something I’d like to add to my lingerie collection.  Unfortunately, the only bras I could find in a 32C were molded cups and pushups; the lace balconettes seemed reserved only for those in a 32D or above.  I’m personally rather fond of my bust shape and don’t feel it needs a 2-cup-size boost! I fully understand that expanding size ranges can be a complex and costly undertaking for a lingerie brand, though with a label as big as Victoria’s Secret you’d think it wouldn’t be too much of a risk.

Details on the Sparklewren ‘Burning Coals’ corset

So what could be a better cure for the boring and mass-produced than a visit to the wonderful Sparklewren boutique?  After popping in to Jenni’s Birmingham boutique last week, I knew my lingerie lust-list had just been entirely re-written.  Her new ‘burning coals’ corset is one of the most gorgeous garments that I’ve ever laid my eyes upon: phenomenal shaping and exquisite embellishment, with layered golden lace, crystals and spikes – everything that I could ever ask for in a corset!  I was even lucky enough to try it on.  All I need to do now is win the lottery and make it mine! I thoroughly recommend visiting the Sparklewren boutique to any lingerie and corsetry lover – the creations it houses are more works of art than simply garments and the couture laces and crystal embellishments are sure to appeal to any lover of shiny things!

My gorgeous new French lace and my first camisole experiment with it

Finally, I’ve been getting to grips with the aftermath of launching my own lingerie brand!  The response that I’ve had has been a lot better than I ever could have expected.  I’ve been inundated with orders and have received some incredibly lovely messages from customers – it’s really helped to enforce that following my dream was actually a good idea.  Unfortunately, my shops orders seem to have taken up all of my spare time! I’d ordered some stunning French leavers lace that I’ve been barely able to touch since it arrive.  I’m hoping that at some point in the near future I’ll manage to get some free time for some new designs – all I’ve managed so far is a lace camisole, when really I want to be trying out the soft bras and high-waisted knickers that are still just ideas in my head!

Now that September’s over, I’m finally going back to my lingerie studies at university.  It’s going to be an incredibly exciting year – we’re going to be looking at corsetry and swimwear to name just a few of the things we’ll be doing.  I can’t wait to see where my new lingerie school adventures and I’m looking forward to sharing them with you!

Readers – have you had any of your own lingerie adventures last month? What do you think of mine?

Karolina

Karolina

Student at De Montfort University's world-renowned Contour Fashion course. Makes many knickers in her spare time.

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Sparklewren the Boutique: an interview with Jenni Hampshire of Sparklewren Corsets

Jenni Hampshire of Sparklewren is a self-trained corsetiere whose designs aren’t just garments; they are true works of art, pairing beautiful shaping with exquisite embellishment. She will soon be embarking on the ambitious business venture of opening a pop-up corset boutique in Birmingham’s ‘Great Western Arcade’, a wonderful Victorian building in the city centre.  Having helped out with the preparations I’ve been lucky enough to see the amount of work that goes into creating these incredible corsets.  To me, they are the true definition of luxury – a mindblowing amount of attention is lavished on every last detail, from the vast amounts of boning tunnels to the intricate hand appliquéd and layered lace.  I can’t wait to see the boutique open;  Jenni was kind enough to answer a few questions about it so that you can share some of the excitement!

What originally inspired you to open a pop-up boutique?

It is something I have always wanted to do. Perhaps because of my arts background, I always picture my pieces within a context… Whether that’s as part of an ensemble, within a photograph, or within a display environment. Presenting my work within a boutique or showroom  just makes sense to me creatively, though it is of course a sensible move from a marketing point of view. Being a shy, home-based business, the people of Birmingham are perhaps not as aware of Sparklewren as they should be. The pop-up boutique will give me a platform with which to rectify that.

What sort of new challenges do you think a boutique will present that the internet doesn’t?

Probably many more than I realise! I think that negotiating what to display, how much stock to have, etc. will be crucial in conveying the idea of “bespoke”. It’s such an unusual way of dressing to most people, that I imagine people could easily assume it’s just a question of ordering Design X in size 12, when in actual fact each pieces is much more of a collaborative creative process than that. So I think I will be educating those who come through my door, in some respects.

I do love distance/online work for the sole fact that I can take my time to quietly work on an idea, quote, or email. But the pay-off of in-person work is the joy of being there when they receive their corset and being able to day-dream about the piece together. So each method of business has its pros and cons.

The Boutique window, pre-transformation

What’s your vision for the boutique?  Could you explain a little about the theme of gilding and the décor?

The boutique needs to function to present the garments, which is at the forefront of my mind… I need to remember that key fact, else I might get carried away with superfluous details! Whilst I have this overarching obsession with the notion of “gilding” as a creative ethos, I am also mindful of the fact that my boutique mustn’t overwhelm the garments.

So I am aiming for a balance of opulent grandeur and contemporary simplicity. Gilded details, chalky champagne and grey tones, soft hazy muslin drapes… a muted, elegant canvas against which my work can shine.

 

Exquisite Sparklewren detailing – lace appliqué, feathers and crystals

What has been the most exciting part of prepararing for the boutique?  What has been the most nerve wracking?

Dreaming up and creating new pieces is always the most exciting part of any project! But certainly, the interest and support I have had from friends and followers has also been wonderful and a massive confidence boost. Perfect strangers have helped out with the project and some people are already planning their journeys so that they can just see the boutique and its contents in the flesh. It’s terribly encouraging that they care so much. I mean, all I have ever wanted to do is make beautiful things, so it is a complete joy that having found my medium people are responding to it and enjoying that beauty.

As far as nerves go, I can get nervous over the silliest things sometimes. I would say that waiting for the keys to the space was the most nerve-wracking time though, as I was convinced something would happen to scupper my plans!

Gorgeous layered lace

Could you describe the show pieces that you have in mind for the boutique?  Just how amazingly shiny will they be?

Haha, very shiny! I’m working on lightly “gilded” cinchers all the way to heavily encrusted iridescent silk satin corseted gowns. I have pieces which require four or five separate layers of applied texture on top of the main construction (which in itself is a very time-consuming process) and I am thinking a lot about the relationship between silhouette and surface in these pieces.

Being a typical magpie, this is all great fun for me and I hope it will prove equally eye-catching and intriguing for my friends, peers and future potential clients.

A sheer sweetheart cincher

What sort of ready-to-wear things can we expect at the boutique?

Delicate little sweetheart cinchers with hand-cut and appliqued couture lace… potentially some little silk and lace treats such as blindfolds, panties or cami tops… and no doubt a couple of overbust corsets too, since I can’t help but create new pieces all the time.

What services do you plan to offer at the boutique?

As mentioned, I do want to update a small selection of stock items every so often, to keep the boutique pretty and satisfy some client’s decadent whims! But the focus of my work at this time really is bespoke. Primarily because I’m fickle and easily bored! Bespoke allows for each project to be exceptional, different and interesting in its own right. I believe that bridal, stage, boudoir wear… it can all be elevated by consideration of every little detail in relation to the client’s character and physique. Having display items constantly on show within the boutique (something not possible in my home studio) will encourage greater imagination, I think.

So there will be a main space for display of items, client meetings, sale of stock pieces… a hidden workspace (which will no doubt be creative chaos)… and a generous fitting area for dressing clients and checking toiles.

When is the launch and what can we expect to see there?

I’m aiming for either the 26th or 27th June for the launch, evening time, but this is still up in the air and I will let everyone know once it is confirmed. The launch will be the official unveiling of my most recent “gilded” corsets and corseted gowns, which I am massively excited about! The window (which is featuring a gilded backdrop by artist Emily Swift-Jones) will, for that one night, also feature a special guest, resplendent in golden Sparklewren finery, as a living mannequin.

I have to say, the launch excites me the most… the idea of all those sparkling, gleaming corsets, the window, the living mannequin… I want it to be overwhelming, for the visitors to feel saturated in gold, enveloped in sumptuous fabrics. I can’t wait.

A huge thank you to Jenni for taking the time to answer these questions – I think it’s safe to say that the boutique will be stunning once it’s open!   Jenni’s website can be found here.

Karolina

Karolina

Student at De Montfort University's world-renowned Contour Fashion course. Makes many knickers in her spare time.

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Opulent Eyecandy: Royal Black Couture & Corsetry

In the world of fashion, there’s always a tension between what’s practical and what’s possible. You can dream up the most extravagant, luxurious, and opulent designs, but if no buys them, then you’ll find yourself out of business in just a few short years…maybe sooner. That’s why it’s always so thrilling to me than when a designer truly goes all out and shows the world what they can do…what it means to be a master of their craft…what it means to be a couturier.

The corset above is a special commission designed and created by Royal Black Couture & Corsetry for the world famous lingerie model and photographer Morgana, also known as Threnody in Velvet. The following text is taken direction from Royal Black’s Facebook page

“This corset took me more than 150 hours to finish. It features hand-dyed antique fabric and lace ornaments, pleats, frills and drapery of organza and ragged tulle and an uncounted number of pearls and sequins.”

If ever a corset could be called a work of art, this one is. More photos of Royal Black Couture & Corsetry’s work are in the gallery below. What are your thoughts?

The Lingerie Addict Awards: Our Favorite Lingerie Brands of 2011

Welcome back for our second of our two annual “Best of 2011″ articles. A few days ago, we listed the Top 20 Lingerie Addict Blog Posts of 2011, and now it’s time to talk our Top 20 Lingerie Brands of 2011. I’m especially excited about this year’s awards because they include both nominations and commentary from Lingerie Addict readers and columnists. Want to see which of last year’s winners made it onto this year’s list? Take a look at our best lingerie of 2010!

Best Overall: Kiss Me Deadly (Reader’s Choice!)
When I asked my Facebook fans to tell me their fave lingerie brand of 2011,  so many of them said Kiss Me Deadly, I literally lost count. Kiss Me Deadly has been one of my personal favorites since the very beginning, and ever since they created the “little black dress of lingerie” (pictured above, phrasing courtesy of reader Amaryllis), their popularity has skyrocketed. Kiss Me Deadly is one of a handful of brands I recommend all the time, and I think 2012 is going to be their year to shine.

Best Overall (luxury): Made by Niki (Reader’s Choice!)
Nominated by both our columnists and readers alike, Made by Niki created one of the most innovative lingerie collections of 2011…the Made by Niki String Collection. Completely original and intensely sensual, Made by Niki raised for the bar for what consumers should expect from luxury lingerie. Not very much takes my breath away anymore, but this did…and it still does.

Best Vintage-Inspired: What Katie Did (Reader’s Choice!)
Pin-up and retro lingerie is a major fashion trend right now, but while there are lots of labels inspired by the past, very few actually use patterns from the past. What Katie Did is one of a handful of lingerie designers that does. Her work was featured in this year’s critically acclaimed biopic My Week with Marilyn, and she also offers one of the most extensive size ranges in the vintage-inspired lingerie niche, with her bras fitting women from 32A to 40G.

Best Everyday Brand: Huit (Reader’s Choice!)
Though I only recently discovered Huit, I’m already a tremendous fan of them. As Lingerie Addict reader Dee put it, Huit offers “classic lines that aren’t too frilly for everyday wear, yet still sexy enough for playtime.” In my opinion, Huit exemplifies wearable but still sophisticated glamour.

Best Luxury Brand: Agent Provocateur (Reader’s Choice!)
For the last 17 years, the name Agent Provocateur has been synonymous with luxury lingerie around the world. Not for the faint of heart (or thin of wallet), Agent Provocateur treats the world of intimates as just another aspect of the fashion industry, releasing on-trend prints, patterns, and colorways every season. This year, they also expanded into the world of jewelry and bed linens, transitioning from “just” a lingerie brand to a comprehensive lifestyle brand.

Best Luxury (Made to Order): Toad Lillie
Toad Lillie is the sort of lingerie designer fashion magazines like to write stories about. Every piece is made to order and hand sewn by the designer herself, Laurie Shapiro, and she works with only the finest silks using only the most couture construction techniques. I’ve always thought Toad Lillie’s pieces were pretty, but then I had the opportunity to view them in person for the first time this year, and I’ve been smitten ever since. The fashion industry feels the same way; legendary photographer Ellen von Unwerth chose to shoot with Toad Lillie’s pieces twice this year.

Best Budget Brand: Ultimo
Another new brand on the list for 2011, Ultimo first caught my attention when I was searching for reasonably priced full bust bras for my readers. I know from personal experience how hard it is to be a lingerie addict on a budget. You still want gorgeous lingerie, but the simple reality is that you can’t drop a hundred dollar bill (or three) every time you need a new bra. Ultimo manages to bridge the gap between beautiful and affordable with bras for A-D cups starting just under $50 and bras for DD-G starting just over $50.

Best New Brand: Marika Vera
One of the great privileges of writing a lingerie blog is that I often get to see new designers before anyone else does, and after the recession of the last few years, it is incredibly exciting to see new talent emerging and thriving within the lingerie industry again. Marika Vera is one such talent. Her debut collection, Venus in Furs, was picked up by the world-famous luxury lingerie boutique Faire Frou Frou, and has received nothing but rave reviews. Marika Vera’s lingerie is earthy, sensual, luxurious, and unique all at once, and I can’t wait to see what she brings in 2012.

Best Hosiery: Commando
Commando is on this year’s list because they solved a problem I didn’t even know I had before…the problem of a hosiery waistband that digs, binds, squeezes, and is otherwise thoroughly uncomfortable. Commando’s ingenious microfiber lasercut waistband gets rid of all that, and stays perfectly in place (and perfectly comfortable!) all day long. Trust me…I was skeptical too until I tried these. Now, I’m a convert.

Best Ethical Line: Purrfect Pineapples (Reader’s Choice!)
I love lingerie designers with a unique point of view and Purrfect Pineapples has it in spades. A little bit pin-up, a little bit alternative, and a little bit Lolita, Purrfect Pineapple’s owner Erika Shuhendler prides herself on fair wages, quality craftsmanship, and original designs. Or, as our reader Audra puts it, “gorgeous design, incredible fabric patterning, and of course cruelty-free and vegan!”

Best Full Bust Brand: Curvy Kate (Reader’s Choice!)
Curvy Kate blew onto the lingerie scene in 2009 and they haven’t slowed down since. Curvy Kate is committed to making sure D-K cup women have just as many gorgeous lingerie options as their smaller busted counterparts, and their passion for finding the perfect fit is evident in the rave reviews of their customers. Their Star in a Bra competition is one of the best and most innovative pieces of marketing ever, and I can’t wait to see them take the U.S. by storm. Expect great things from Curvy Kate in 2012.

Best Full Bust (budget): Parfait by Affinitas
Our full bust specialist Holly nominated this brand, and she calls it “the best brand in terms of quality for price, hands down.” The average woman’s bra size today is 36DD, and I get so many e-mails from readers asking me where they can find a full busted bra that 1) supportive, 2) pretty, and 3) affordable. Well Parfait by Affinitas is all three of those and then some. Congratulations…now  you’re in on one of the best kept secrets of this year.

Best Small Bust Brand: The Little Bra Company
While there’s been a lot of attention given lately to DD cup and higher bras, small busted women are being very vocal (and rightly so!) in making sure the lingerie industry doesn’t forget about them either. I love The Little Bra Company because their bras are pretty, give believable lift and cleavage, and are available down to a 28A. My personal fave is the Lucia in peony/tangerine (pictured above).

Best Lingerie Boutique (Brick and Mortar): Dollhouse Bettie
The sign of a good lingerie boutique is when it lives up to your expectations. The sign of a great lingerie boutique is when it surpasses them. With many of the same brands available online nowadays, lingerie boutiques stand out by offering a curated selection, personable staff, and expert advice…three things Dollhouse Bettie has in spades. Combining modern brands with vintage pieces and an in-house designed range, Dollhouse Bettie offers a shopping experience like no other.

Best Lingerie Boutique (Online): HerRoom (Reader’s Choice!)
Free Shipping. Easy Returns. Authentic Customer Reviews. 200 brands under one digital roof. HerRoom makes shopping online for lingerie easy. I particularly love how each product is photographed from several angles, and the super detailed product descriptions. HerRoom takes all the guesswork out of lingerie shopping online…which is probably why they were nominated for the list. (Mary Green robe pictured above.)

Best Shapewear: Cass Luxury Shapewear
As my style matures from jeans and t-shirts to pencil skirts and lacy blouses, I find myself relying on shapewear a lot more. And though I’ve tried a ton of brands, the honest truth is that most of them are unremarkable…if not downright uncomfortable. But the shapewear brand I keep coming to again and again is Cass. They’re comfortable. They’re stylish. And they really do slim and refine your curves. They also offer a ton of options, so you’re covered no matter what you’re wearing.

Best Full Bust Shapewear: Charnos
One of the complaints I’ve heard time and again from my readers is that it’s very hard to find shapewear to accomodate all their curves, especially if they’re full-busted. Our columnist Holly nominated Charnos for this year’s list, and had this to say about the line, “Their cups are really generous and the pieces are great. It’s almost impossible to find one piece shapewear for the full bust market.” As an added bonus, this is shapewear you won’t mind showing off; the lace overlay and garter straps make Charnos’ line both pretty and practical.

Best Corsetry (budget): Timeless Trends (Reader’s Choice!)
Make no mistake about it, corsetry is an investment. But a custom made corset will set you back a few hundred dollars (and rightly so!). If you’re new to the world of corsetry and just want to test the waters, or if you’re on a budget and a custom corset is out of reach, then Timeless Trends is for you. Unlike many so-called corsets, Timeless Trends uses authentic steel-boning, and every corset comes with a lifetime guarantee. Best of all, their corsets are available in plus sizes and start at $99. It may not be custom, but it’s the next best thing.

Best Corsetry (made to order): Dark Garden (Reader’s Choice!)
If you do have the money to invest in custom, handmade corsetry however, then you can’t go wrong with the corsetiere to burlesque legends like Dita von Teese and Catherine D’Lish. Founded 20 years ago and based in San Francisco, Dark Garden’s founder, Autumn Adamme uses couture stitching and historical costume techniques to craft her world famous corsets. I keep a running list of corsetieres I’d like to buy from in the future and believe me when I say Dark Garden is on it.

Best of 2012 (projected): Love Claudette
Their tagline is “Your new favorite bra has arrived,” and I believe it. Though Love Claudette is new to the lingerie world, they’re already getting rave reviews and rightly so. I tried two of their ranges, the mesh and the cotton, this last year, and they’re already in my regular rotation of everyday bras. Holly calls them the most-innovative range for full-busted women, especially since they offer a sheer mesh bra that super sexy and super supportive all at once. Love Claudette proves that there’s still room for new players in the lingerie industry, and I expect this brand to explode in 2012.

I hope you enjoyed reading this year’s round-up of the very best of what 2011 had to offer. Did we leave your favorite brand off the list? Tell us what you love in the comments!

Designer Interviews: Electra Designs Corsetry

I know I say this every month, but it’s always true….I’m really excited about this month’s designer interview with Alexis Black, the founder and corsetiere behind Electra Designs.  Alexis created my most recent custom corset (which you can see on The Lingerie Addict Facebook Page) and her gorgeous corsetry is literally famous worldwide.

In our interview, Alexis talks about why corsets matter, gives a few tidbits of advice for readers thinking of buying their first custom corset, and shares her favorite design.  Want to keep up with Alexis’ latest work? Follow her on LiveJournal, Twitter, or Facebook!

1) How long have you been a corsetiere? Do you have any formal training?
I have been making corsets for over 20 years and have been a professional corsetiere since 1998. I am primarily self taught, however I did learn basic pattern drafting and fashion design at the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising.

2) What made you want to be a corsetiere?
Making corsets has always been a passion of mine. I strongly believe that if you do what you love, you can find a way to monetize it. When I worked retail, I found myself constantly day dreaming about making corsets, but by the time I had a day off, I was too exhausted to enjoy sewing. I originally became a corsetiere as a way to justify and finance my hobby of corset-making.

3) Why corsets? And why should people want one?
I love to make corsets because they are so complicated and beautiful. They are the perfect blend of form and function. I enjoy the challenge of engineering a garment that has the ability to reshape the human body, thereby accentuating all of the features we find most beautiful.

A corset, is, in a way, an extension of your body. Most clothing is worn. Corsets become part of you. A well-made, properly fitted corset makes the wearer feel so powerful, sexy, regal, graceful sensuous and confident. Modern, custom corsetry is comfortable, liberating, and extremely sexy.

4) What are your top three pieces of advice for anyone interested in buying a corset?

  • Save your money and buy a hand-made piece from someone who takes pride in their work. It’s better to have one quality garment that fits and feels good on than three disposable “corsets” that look bad and feel worse.
  • Do your research before you make a purchase. You can learn a lot on the online corset forums.
  • Buy only from reputable corsetieres who have a history of excellent communication. 

    5) In a world of mass production, discount pricing, and one-size-fits-all, what do you think is the role of a luxury item, like a handmade, custom-fitted corset?
    Thanks to sites like Etsy, there has been a huge resurgence of hand made-artists and consumers who value high quality, hand made items that are made with love, and are made to last. A well-made corset, if properly cared for, can last many generations. When the landfills are piled high with mass-produced, disposable mall fashion, I can take comfort in the knowledge that my corsets are still being worn and cherished long after I die.

    6) Any famous clients?
    Several, but I am, unfortunately, unable to disclose their names. Although making corsets for celebrities can be fun, I get a lot more satisfaction from crafting unique garments for people who are often left out, like plus size women and transgender individuals. I revel in knowing that I had a part in helping these beautiful people transform their outside selves to more closely reflect how they see themselves on he inside.

    7) Your favorite piece?
    My favorite style is the long line underbust corset (pictured above). It does the most to reshape the body while remaining very comfortable and versatile.

    8) And finally, where can we buy your stuff?
    www.electradesigns.net or www.etsy.com/shop/electradesigns
    Please don’t hesitate to email me directly at alexis@electradesigns.net

    Photo Credits (in order of appearance): Adrian Buackmaster,  666 Photography, Adrian Buackmaster, Vara Pappas, 666 Photography. Model (in all photos): Elegy Ellem