Posts in category "business"

At a Snail’s Pace: Starting the Lingerie Brand ‘Karolina Laskowska’

The first lingerie set that I ever made, January 2011

Since I learned to sew in early 2011, I’ve turned into a bit of a lingerie making machine; the space under my bed is literally stuffed full with boxes of bras and knickers.  Those of you who’ve been following my antics will know that it all started in an attempt to get a place at De Montfort University for the Contour Fashion degree – a course that specialises in lingerie design and, quite frankly, my dream degree.

My first foray into lingerie (handsewn!)

I’ve always enjoyed making things – my mother used to joke that I was a ‘factory’.  Once the lingerie obsession took hold, it was pretty much inevitable that I’d be chaining myself to the sewing machine.  What made this obsession different to my previous ones, though (take greeting cards and candles as an example), was that it gave me a step into the fashion world.  People started to notice the creations that I shared online – or, more relevantly, photographers started to notice them.  They liked what I was doing and soon enough I was collaborating with people whose work I’d previously only admired from afar, well before I’d even started my degree.

Padded silk chiffon bra with freshwater pearls.  Model is Sundal, photographed by Simon Crinks

It may be strange to admit, but seeing such gorgeous and professional photos of my designs gave me a sense of confidence and almost validated my decision to study lingerie.  It also meant that more people saw my work  – soon enough I was seeing my work reblogged all over the place and people contacting me to make things for them.  The idea of starting my own ‘brand’ began to play on my mind…

Yet it was an event at the beginning of this Summer that really made my mind up.  I’d been told repeatedly by all sorts off people in the industry that starting a brand was a terrible idea, that there was no money in it, that my ideas weren’t original… Yet one day I received an email from a certain boutique asking if I did wholesale.

The pentagram thong playsuit and frame bra, two of the items requested for wholesale.  Model is Miss Miranda, photography by Anna Swiczeniuk.

When I first read it, I wasn’t too hopeful.  I’d had enquiries before but they’d all fallen through.  After all, I wasn’t a proper ‘brand’. I didn’t have anything established. As far as I was concerned, I was just a girl on the internet who occasionally posted photos with some knickers that she’d made.  Yet, as it turned out, this was a serious enquiry – I began to consider it, and a burst of unseasonal confidence made me agree to it – styles and quantities were discussed, and before I knew it, I’d given a delivery date and had a deposit in my bank account.

Then the realisation hit me that I was responsible for making 26 garments to retail standard.  As did the realisation that I was responsible for all of the small things that come with clothing in retail – labels, tags, packaging… All of a sudden it seemed like a mountain of work.  I didn’t have time to hang around.

Straight away, I set about buying materials, designing labels and ordering samples. And then I set about the real hard work – grading my samples into different sizes and making sure that they fit. My poor friends had to suffer my incessant requests to cover them in elastic straps, all in a bid to make sure that garments actually looked good on the body!  Eventually, I’d got everything into a state that I was happy with – lingerie that I’d want to own.

Copious amounts of components and elastic

And so, production began. For several weeks, I confined myself to my room.  I got through literally hundreds of metres of elastic and endless amounts of gold rings and sliders.  I seemed to have a panic attack nearly every day (the worst being when I thought my sewing machine had broken, with just one week to go), yet eventually, I managed to get everything sewn.

Pentagram thongs, packaged up with instructions attached

Soon enough, I was labelling everything and packing it up in plastic bags, ready for shipping.  It was quite a surreal experience, seeing everything packaged up and actually looking professional.  As if these garments actually belonged in a shop.  Before I knew it, I was handing a big box full of knickers over to a FedEx man, ready to be shipped to a boutique far, far away.

Packaged frame bras

I spent the next few days worrying – what if they didn’t like what I’d made?  What if it was all a big mistake?  Luckily, my worrying was all assuaged soon enough. I received a lovely email from the retailer, and soon enough I realised – if my designs are considered good enough for an actual shop, they’re good enough for the rest of the world too. Starting my own brand – the dream I’d had for a while but was always a bit too scared to pursue – was actually happening.

My ready-to-wear range of lingerie

So what can you expect from my brand? Well, that’s a question I’ve been puzzling over myself, and one that I still haven’t thought of a proper answer to! I’ve ended up deciding to have three different ‘ranges’ of products – with the main theme running through them being that it’s lingerie that I’d like to own myself.

Some of the kimono silks that I can’t wait to start working with

The first is my ‘ready-to-wear’ range which is based around my most popular designs – strappy frame bras and my pentagram playsuit.  The second is the ‘limited edition’ range – this will contain the one-off designs that I get most excited about, using rare and luxurious fabrics and embellishment.  My current plan is to use my recently acquired vintage kimono silks – each piece will be truly unique as I only have so much of each fabric!  I’m also dreaming of one day getting my hands on some couture lace and pairing them with some of my more bondage-inspired influences…

An example of a one-off design

Finally, I want to give my customers of having something truly unique, made just for them – bespoke lingerie sets.  Bespoke lingerie is something that I can get incredibly excited and passionate about – there’s something so satisfying creating something for an individual, knowing it’s going to something truly special for them.  The experiences I’ve had so far with people approaching me for bespoke lingerie have all been wonderful, and I want more people to know it’s a service that’s available instead of just being scared to ask!

I’ve finally got round to making my own website, finally giving people a chance to buy my garments and to showcase my work so far – from my one-off designs to all the lingerie and fashion photoshoots I’ve been lucky enough to participate in.  Everything that I’m doing is still at an incredibly small scale – after all, I’m only just about to go into my second year of university.  I know with all the work that I’ll have to do in the forthcoming year means that I simply won’t have time to expand things, on top of which there’s no way I’d be able to get the money together to have things manufactured in a factory!  Yet I’d still like to think that I’ve made my first small step into joining the lingerie industry.  I know it’s not something that I’ll be able to pursue at any serious business level until I’ve finished my studies, but until then, it’s a good feeling to know that people genuinely want to buy my lingerie and admire my work!

As a thank you to all of the readers who’ve been following my work, I’d like to offer a 15% discount code for my shop on all individual items!  Code: lingerie-love (expires on 09-12-12, not valid on sets or bespoke orders).

Readers:  What do you think of my foray into becoming a lingerie brand?  Are my designs something that you’d like to own yourself?

Karolina

Karolina

Student at De Montfort University's world-renowned Contour Fashion course. Makes many knickers in her spare time.

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Sparklewren the Boutique: an interview with Jenni Hampshire of Sparklewren Corsets

Jenni Hampshire of Sparklewren is a self-trained corsetiere whose designs aren’t just garments; they are true works of art, pairing beautiful shaping with exquisite embellishment. She will soon be embarking on the ambitious business venture of opening a pop-up corset boutique in Birmingham’s ‘Great Western Arcade’, a wonderful Victorian building in the city centre.  Having helped out with the preparations I’ve been lucky enough to see the amount of work that goes into creating these incredible corsets.  To me, they are the true definition of luxury – a mindblowing amount of attention is lavished on every last detail, from the vast amounts of boning tunnels to the intricate hand appliquéd and layered lace.  I can’t wait to see the boutique open;  Jenni was kind enough to answer a few questions about it so that you can share some of the excitement!

What originally inspired you to open a pop-up boutique?

It is something I have always wanted to do. Perhaps because of my arts background, I always picture my pieces within a context… Whether that’s as part of an ensemble, within a photograph, or within a display environment. Presenting my work within a boutique or showroom  just makes sense to me creatively, though it is of course a sensible move from a marketing point of view. Being a shy, home-based business, the people of Birmingham are perhaps not as aware of Sparklewren as they should be. The pop-up boutique will give me a platform with which to rectify that.

What sort of new challenges do you think a boutique will present that the internet doesn’t?

Probably many more than I realise! I think that negotiating what to display, how much stock to have, etc. will be crucial in conveying the idea of “bespoke”. It’s such an unusual way of dressing to most people, that I imagine people could easily assume it’s just a question of ordering Design X in size 12, when in actual fact each pieces is much more of a collaborative creative process than that. So I think I will be educating those who come through my door, in some respects.

I do love distance/online work for the sole fact that I can take my time to quietly work on an idea, quote, or email. But the pay-off of in-person work is the joy of being there when they receive their corset and being able to day-dream about the piece together. So each method of business has its pros and cons.

The Boutique window, pre-transformation

What’s your vision for the boutique?  Could you explain a little about the theme of gilding and the décor?

The boutique needs to function to present the garments, which is at the forefront of my mind… I need to remember that key fact, else I might get carried away with superfluous details! Whilst I have this overarching obsession with the notion of “gilding” as a creative ethos, I am also mindful of the fact that my boutique mustn’t overwhelm the garments.

So I am aiming for a balance of opulent grandeur and contemporary simplicity. Gilded details, chalky champagne and grey tones, soft hazy muslin drapes… a muted, elegant canvas against which my work can shine.

 

Exquisite Sparklewren detailing – lace appliqué, feathers and crystals

What has been the most exciting part of prepararing for the boutique?  What has been the most nerve wracking?

Dreaming up and creating new pieces is always the most exciting part of any project! But certainly, the interest and support I have had from friends and followers has also been wonderful and a massive confidence boost. Perfect strangers have helped out with the project and some people are already planning their journeys so that they can just see the boutique and its contents in the flesh. It’s terribly encouraging that they care so much. I mean, all I have ever wanted to do is make beautiful things, so it is a complete joy that having found my medium people are responding to it and enjoying that beauty.

As far as nerves go, I can get nervous over the silliest things sometimes. I would say that waiting for the keys to the space was the most nerve-wracking time though, as I was convinced something would happen to scupper my plans!

Gorgeous layered lace

Could you describe the show pieces that you have in mind for the boutique?  Just how amazingly shiny will they be?

Haha, very shiny! I’m working on lightly “gilded” cinchers all the way to heavily encrusted iridescent silk satin corseted gowns. I have pieces which require four or five separate layers of applied texture on top of the main construction (which in itself is a very time-consuming process) and I am thinking a lot about the relationship between silhouette and surface in these pieces.

Being a typical magpie, this is all great fun for me and I hope it will prove equally eye-catching and intriguing for my friends, peers and future potential clients.

A sheer sweetheart cincher

What sort of ready-to-wear things can we expect at the boutique?

Delicate little sweetheart cinchers with hand-cut and appliqued couture lace… potentially some little silk and lace treats such as blindfolds, panties or cami tops… and no doubt a couple of overbust corsets too, since I can’t help but create new pieces all the time.

What services do you plan to offer at the boutique?

As mentioned, I do want to update a small selection of stock items every so often, to keep the boutique pretty and satisfy some client’s decadent whims! But the focus of my work at this time really is bespoke. Primarily because I’m fickle and easily bored! Bespoke allows for each project to be exceptional, different and interesting in its own right. I believe that bridal, stage, boudoir wear… it can all be elevated by consideration of every little detail in relation to the client’s character and physique. Having display items constantly on show within the boutique (something not possible in my home studio) will encourage greater imagination, I think.

So there will be a main space for display of items, client meetings, sale of stock pieces… a hidden workspace (which will no doubt be creative chaos)… and a generous fitting area for dressing clients and checking toiles.

When is the launch and what can we expect to see there?

I’m aiming for either the 26th or 27th June for the launch, evening time, but this is still up in the air and I will let everyone know once it is confirmed. The launch will be the official unveiling of my most recent “gilded” corsets and corseted gowns, which I am massively excited about! The window (which is featuring a gilded backdrop by artist Emily Swift-Jones) will, for that one night, also feature a special guest, resplendent in golden Sparklewren finery, as a living mannequin.

I have to say, the launch excites me the most… the idea of all those sparkling, gleaming corsets, the window, the living mannequin… I want it to be overwhelming, for the visitors to feel saturated in gold, enveloped in sumptuous fabrics. I can’t wait.

A huge thank you to Jenni for taking the time to answer these questions – I think it’s safe to say that the boutique will be stunning once it’s open!   Jenni’s website can be found here.

Karolina

Karolina

Student at De Montfort University's world-renowned Contour Fashion course. Makes many knickers in her spare time.

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So You Want to Be a Lingerie Model…?

Raven Le Faye & Victoria Dagger; Photo, Max Johnson; Hair, Erin Lopez

I know some of you are curious.  I’ve seen you asking on Treacle’s Tumblr.  You know you’ve got what it takes to be a lingerie model, or you think you might, anyway, but you have no idea where to begin.  Well, I’m no agent, but I am a designer who also happens to do a fair bit of modeling, so these are my suggestions for you lovelies who would like to model for lingerie designers.  This mostly applies to working with independent designers, rather than large corporations – you’ll need to be agency signed to get in with them.

Victoria Dagger for Dark Garden; Photo, Mariah Carle

The good news is that being a “good” model is not just about having a pretty face and a nice body (whatever that means): there are, in fact, actual skills and abilities involved.  Believe it or not, not everyone who is “pretty” is photogenic, and a lot of girls who photograph exceptionally well are relatively unremarkable in real life.  Of course, without going to Shallow Town, there are still some physical requirements.  A proportionate, standard sized figure is necessary to fit into designers’ standard sized samples; clear skin will make photographers more willing to work with you, especially on an ongoing basis; and you should keep yourself generally well maintained (this includes things like your hair cut and color, clean and trimmed or manicured nails, no habitual giant bruises, scratches, or sunburns, etc).  No, you don’t have to look like a Victoria’s Secret model, unless you want to model for Victoria’s Secret.

Elisa Berlin for Pop Antique

Other physical traits beyond that will depend hugely on the demographic of the designers you’re trying to model for.  Look at the types of models currently being used in the lines you’re interested in modeling for.  Are you the same body type?  Age range?  Do the models all have a certain “look” for a particular line?  Tattoos and facial or body piercings will hold you back from a good amount of vanilla modeling gigs, but certain lines embrace the “alternative” look.  Same with figure quirks – if you’re small busted or full figured, look to model for lines that cater to that niche.  A lot of independent designers are also far less concerned about height, especially for photo modeling (as compared to runway).

Dwoira Galilea for Dark Garden; Photo, Joel Aron

Of course, as the old saying goes, it’s not what you know, it’s who you know.  Independent designers often cast people they already know who like to model for them.  In my experience (and maybe it’s just my San Francisco lifestyle), creative people enjoy having creative friends.  So designers, therefore, have no shortage of talented, attractive friends already willing to model for them, and there is a big advantage for us in working with a known entity.  For me, since I consider my brand a bit of a “lifestyle brand,” knowing the model carries a lot of weight because I know they are a strong representative of the brand.  That said, smart designers know they can’t use the same few faces all the time, so the following are some skills and tips for making yourself more attractive to us.  (As an aside, we also don’t have a lot of money, so expect to get paid in the form of “good, clean, fun” and narcissistic fulfillment.  Possibly trade or maybe champagne and cookies.)

Victoria Dagger for Dollymop for Dark Garden; Photo, Chris Gaede; MUA, Wendy Tran

My previous article, How to Have a Boudoir Photoshoot, mentioned a lot of basics of posing and shoot prep.  The more you shoot, the more the posing concepts become muscle memory and instinctive.  The next step is learning not just how to pose attractively, but how to convey a specific mood with your face and body language. Since lingerie is also known as “intimates,” a blank fashion face won’t fly – some feeling of intimacy and connection with the viewer is necessary. Practice in front of the mirror to build up a versatile range of facial angles and expressions, and study lingerie catalogs and photoshoots for posing ideas.  Make sure you think about your poses in relation to the garments you’re supposed to be modeling.  You want to make sure at the minimum that you’re not covering the garment much, and, preferably, that you’re actually drawing attention to the design features.  Follow your favorite models on Facebook or their web portfolio and try to analyze what you think is effective about their work.

Victoria Dagger; Photo, Mask Photo

Being a self-sufficient model is the biggest in you can have for a designer.  Like a lot of creatives, we’re busy and sometimes easily overwhelmed.  If you’re high maintenance and need a lot of coddling, unless you really knock our socks off we’ll just cast someone with a more professional attitude in the future.  The more multi-talented you can be, the more bookable you are.  Learn how to do your hair a few different ways (hair stylists are always the hardest to book; they have less need for portfolio images and often have salon jobs); invest in some photo-ready makeup and play with it in your spare time; have a variety of shoes and accessories for styling shoots, etc.  The tools for this go in your “shoot bag,” which you should always always have prepared in case a booked team member has to cancel at the last minute.  I’ve had to cover for other models more than once, or been stuck without my makeup bag at inopportune times.  Prepare for the worst.  It’s also a big time saver when you can do these things for yourself: expect to spend at least an hour, each, on hair and makeup if you’re working with professionals.  As I mentioned in my article on multitalented pinup artists, contemporary model Morgana has become very popular with a lot of UK designers because they know she does the work of essentially an entire photo team, by herself, and she does it up to the same standard.

Victoria Dagger for Dollymop Designs; Photo, Lydia Chen; MUA, Chrysalis Rose

Conversely, having an established network of collaborators to call upon is also hugely helpful.  Some shoot concepts call for more complicated elements than can be pulled off with just a model and photographer.  Knowing reliable photographers, makeup artists, and even other models that like to do trade/portfolio shoots, mesh well with you, and consistently provide high quality work makes it much easier to coordinate a shoot, and designers will thank you for it if you save them the hassle of finding people and managing their conflicting schedules.

Victoria Dagger for Pop Antique; Photo, Bill Clearlake

   If you’re not sure where to get started on all of this and have no modeling experience whatsoever, I recommend you make an account on Model Mayhem.  For models, it’s acceptable to only have snapshots to start with, but avoid candid photos, cell phone shots, and self portraits at arm’s length.  If you have a friend with a decent camera, ask them to take a few shots of you.  Keep your bio text relevant, polite, and grammatically correct.  Make sure your listed measurements are accurate.  Bust and hips at their widest point, waist at its narrowest, measuring tape parallel to the floor always.  If I see a model with unlisted measurements, it equates to them not wanting to work with designers: you shoot yourself in the foot if we have to go out of our way to see if you’ll even fit in our samples, because we’re just not going to do it.  We’ll move onto the next profile.

Victoria Dagger and Kelsey Sailors for Dark Garden; Photo, Mask Photo; MUA, Chrysalis Rose

Then, as you build up your portfolio with TFP (trade for pictures) shoots, hang out in the forums, especially the Critiques and Model Colloquy.  There you can learn what makes for stronger images and get targeted advice for modeling.  Of course, there will also be a lot of threads and responses that you’ll have to take with a grain of salt, so develop a thick skin and block out anything that’s not actually constructive.  (The number of people recommending $30 “corsets” in various threads makes me nauseous just thinking about it.)  Browsing others’ work, you’ll also learn about various genres and niches that appeal to and inspire you.

Victoria Dagger for Dark Garden; Photo, Mask Photo

Last-minute additions based on comments and feedback, aka, things I meant to mention or straight-up forgot, with credits to those who reminded me.
-BE RELIABLE.  This goes for any job, right?  But when flaky models are the norm, they make you look even better when you actually show up.  Consistently.  Keep communication lines open if something legitimately arises that prevents you from shooting at your best (temporarily disfiguring or fatiguing illness, losing your job or similar large-scale trauma, etc.) -Sannie, Alisha
-Your ability to get work largely depends on the area you live in, or, at least, are willing to (and do) travel to. -KathTea
-A seamless thong in your-flesh-tone is a must for your shoot bag.  Buy several so you’re not screwed if one ends up in the wash.  -Catherine, Kiss Me Deadly

Are you a lingerie model?  What do you think you’ve done that makes you appealing to designers?  Designers, what do you look for in a model?

The 1st Ever Lingerie Social Media E-Course is Live! – UPDATE: Now Closed

As you already know, The Lingerie Addict is primarily a blog written by a lingerie consumer for lingerie consumers. But what you may not know is that I also offer a few specialized services for the lingerie industry, such as lingerie business consulting.

Lately, I’ve been getting a lot of inquiries about best practices for lingerie brands that want to develop their social media presence on platforms like Facebook, Twitter, and Tumblr. With that in mind, I’ve just created a free 4 week e-course just for lingerie businesses who want to improve their Facebook pages.

Very Important Addicts got special access to this class last week, and now I’m opening it up to the general public. Though the e-course is good for anyone who wants to improve their Facebook page, it’s especially useful for independent brands who don’t have extensive PR, marketing, and advertising budgets.

Over the 4-week e-course, we’ll talk about fundamentals like how to get more fans, how to stand out in the newsfeed, and how to develop a voice for your page. By the end of the class, you’ll not only have done completed concrete steps like creating your own welcome tab, you’ll also have a clear sense of where to take your page in the future.