Posts in category "boudoir photography"

How to Apply Photo-Ready Makeup for Your Boudoir Shoot: 10 Easy Steps

Model: Victoria Dagger
Makeup: Victoria Dagger
Photo: Joel Aron
Corset by Dark Garden

For a “fashion industry” type person, of sorts, I can actually be kind of clueless about beauty stuff.  I have about three products plus a razor in my shower, am 25 and only started wearing makeup regularly within the past couple years, and despite having about a yard of hair, I can only do a few things with it.  But I’ve been modeling for over three years now, and a makeup artist isn’t a luxury I get every time.  The following is a step-by-step of a very simple, clean, basic look, which will ensure that your skin and eyes read well on-camera.  This look is very low-maintenance and will transition easily from a boudoir studio to most daily occasions.  I’ve also included some of my favorite products for each step, all of which were affordable even on my old grad student budget (roughly $10-$20 each), though I didn’t buy them all in a single shopping spree.  Professional makeup artists, please forgive my simplification of your process!

Model: Victoria Dagger
Makeup: Victoria Dagger
Photo: Joel Aron
Fascinator by Pop Antique

1. Brow shaping
If you read my first How to Have a Boudoir Photoshoot piece, you may remember that I mention to do your hair removing ritual the day of or day before your shoot.  This is particularly important for your face.  Even if you are going for a natural looking brow, tweeze the strays around the main brow shape.  For a more dramatic style, you can get your brows done at a salon, but I like the control of doing them at home: just go slowly so that you don’t overtweeze or create an inadvertent asymmetry.  Make sure you have a good light source, and a magnified mirror is your friend.  You can also use small scissors to trim the brow hairs for a cleaner shape.
There are guidelines that say that your brows “should” be a certain distance apart or length or arch in a specific place relative to your eye.  Ignore them.  Find the proportion and shape that works for your face and style.  Research different periods of the 20th century and see if any decades had a brow shape similar to yours, then run with it.

Model: Victoria Dagger
Makeup: Victoria Dagger
Photo: Joel Aron
Fascinator by Kalico Delafey

2. Start with a clean face
Make sure all traces of your previous makeup are gone.  If you’re going to use a pore-cleaning strip, this is another step that should be done the day before, otherwise makeup will get caught in and accentuate your newly cleansed pores.  Don’t forget to exfoliate!  I just tried a CVS brand “Deep Action Power Cleanser” (a vibrating exfoliation device) and noticed an instant change in my skin’s texture, from merely “soft” to “silky smooth.”

3. Moisturizer
The day of your shoot, use a lightweight moisturizer over a freshly washed face to help anchor your makeup.  I like Clinique’s “Dramatically Different” moisturizer, which is weightless and has never given my complexion any problems.  If you need something stronger (if your makeup slides a lot on its own or due to oily skin), try a primer.  I like Too Faced’s “Shadow Insurance” for all-day shadow coverage; they also make a face primer.

Model: Victoria Dagger
Makeup: Victoria Dagger
Photo: Mask Photo

4. Concealer
Next up, I brighten my eyes and even my complexion by adding concealer to spots where my skin is more translucent or a different tone.  I’ll blend my Clinique “line smoothing concealer” from the sides of my bridge of my nose (right between my eyes) to underneath my eyes, dabbing a few little dots then blending with my fingertips.  Then I’ll get the sides of my nose (around my nostrils), even the tip if I’ve perhaps gotten a bit too much sun recently.  Again, just dab a bit and then gently spread it, so you don’t get too cake-like of a look.  Lastly, hit any other small blemishes you might have.  However, if you’re looking to conceal any scars, leave them be: concealer will actually make them more conspicuous, not less, and they should be an easy fix for your photographer in post-production.

5. Powder
To finish smoothing out skin tone, add a layer of powder on top.  If you prefer foundation over moisturizer and powder, that’s also viable, but I like the lightness and ease of a translucent powder, such as Clinique’s “Stay-Matte Sheer Pressed Powder.“  (Base or foundation also often has to be applied to the neck and ears, whereas with the powder I can just blend to the edges of my face.)

Model: Victoria Dagger
Makeup: Victoria Dagger
Photo: Joel Aron

6. Shaded brows
The single step that I have found makes the most apparent difference, both on- and off-camera, is shading my brows.  They add a lot of expressionality and distinction to a face, and without shading, light will go straight through your brows and make them look patchy.  Select a matte eyeshadow that matches your hair – you may even want to blend a couple of shades together – and apply with an angled brush.  I use a simple Sephora brand eyeshadow, which seems to last forever when applied in the quantity it takes for even my dramatic brows, and the angled brush from Sephora’s “Face & Eye Travel Tool Kit” is a very convenient shape and proportion for the job.  Check for symmetry again at this step and cheat your coverage accordingly.

7. Eyeliner
With dramatic brows, you’ll find your lashline looking a bit naked.  How heavily you line your top and bottom lid will be determined by your eye shape and personal style.  Wingtips or a cat-eye are always classic, but if you’ve never done them before it takes a lot of practice to apply symmetrically.  I recommend placing a dot at the point where you’d like the wingtip line to end and then connecting down to your lash line.  Regardless of your liner shape and weight, lining the inside of your upper lid will add (the illusion of) length to your lashes.  Sephora’s “Retractable Waterproof Eyeliner” has a nice balance between smudgeability and staying power, and it’s great to not have to deal with a sharpener.  Just be careful that you don’t lose the cap, or your liner will dry out and become hard.  I also love their Waterproof Smoky Liner in matte black, applied with the same angled brush I use on my brows.

Model: Victoria Dagger
Makeup: Victoria Dagger
Photo: Mariah Carle
Hair: Danielle Blanchet
Corset by Dark Garden

8. Lash Curling
I’ve always thought eyelash curlers looked like arcane torture devices, but they do have their use!  Make sure you curl your lashes before applying mascara, lest the mascara cause your lashes to stick to your curler as if they were glued (ouch.)

9. Mascara
I actually really hate the feeling of most mascaras – they make me want to pull my eyelashes out, which is sort of the opposite of the desired effect.  Lately I’ve been using Buxom Lash, which is comfortably lightweight and non-clumpy, but still definitely has a lengthening and thickening effect.  I end the day with as many lashes as I started because it’s so comfortable to wear that I forget it’s on.

10. Lips
Lip color is not a mandatory part of the process – the pink of your lips will read on camera with or without pigment.  But I wanted to share my favorite drug store lip colors, both of which are good for hours of wear with no bleeding (a hazard with cheaper colors).  Revlon ColorStay Overtime is a combination color plus sealing gloss: Nonstop Cherry and Infinite Raspberry are two of my favorite shades.  Covergirl Outlast Lipstain is a single-layer stain; it doesn’t stay in place quite as long but has a lighter feel on the mouth.  I like Wild Berry Wink (440) for a perfect red (approved by my favorite, “redorexic” makeup artist), or Saucy Plum (450) for a deeper, richer crimson.

Model: Victoria Dagger
Makeup: Victoria Dagger
Photo: Joel Aron
Fascinator by Kalico Delafey

PS: When it’s makeup remover time, I once again turn to Clinique, with “Take the Day Off Makeup Remover”, but you can also get by with any oil (such as the extra virgin olive oil or coconut oil you may use for cooking, both of which can actually be good for your skin).

PPS: You might also be interested in last month’s How to Style Your Boudoir Shoot for tips and a checklist for wardrobe selection, or my How to Book a Boudoir Photoshoot interview with boudoir photographer Mariah Carle.

What are your favorite makeup tips and brands?  Share in the comments below!

How to Style Your Boudoir Shoot: Head to Toe Styling Tips

Pin up fun, placing a hat in a mirror.
Model: Victoria Dagger; photo: Lydia Chen; makeup: Terry Alabata; hat: Kalico Delafey.

A boudoir photoshoot makes an amazing holiday gift for yourself or your special someone. Last year around this time, I ran a two-part segment on How to Have an Amazing Boudoir Photoshoot, and How to Book a Boudoir Photoshoot. Continuing the tradition, I’ve got more tips for you: this week, I’ll discuss styling and how to select wardrobe, and in my next piece, a step by step for basic photo-ready makeup, at home, without a makeup artist.

A Christmas pinup themed set and styling.
Model: Victoria Dagger; photo: Paolo Diavolo; MUA: Nikki F.

Location, Location, Location
The first step is knowing where you’re shooting. Does the location or studio have a special theme or mood with which you should coordinate? What colors are prevalent? Make sure you’re not choosing any wardrobe that will cause you to blend in, chameleon-like, with the backdrop or furniture. Select colors that will pleasingly contrast rather than exactly match your location.

A moody burlesque shoot with victory rolls and rhinestones.
Model: Victoria Dagger; photo: Charles Chan Casela; hair: Danielle Blanchet; MUA: Camille Ivy

Head & Face
There’s a lot of stuff going on above your shoulders, and I don’t just mean the excitement of processing your shoot. You have to plan your makeup, hair, headpiece, and jewelry. Your makeup will depend a lot on the mood or theme you’re going for, especially if you’re trying to recreate the look of an era, but remember that you can “get away with” a much more dramatic look on-camera (but don’t try to emphasize EVERY feature). Plumed feathers or veiled fascinators can add a sexy can-can or pinup touch; place the headpiece on your face’s “good” side, which you should try to cheat towards the camera.
With hair, make sure your cut and color are maintained, but don’t try something completely new unless you really trust your stylist.Hair up vs hair down may depend on your face shape, but think about the environment in which you’ll be shooting. On outdoor location shoots, it can be hard to keep your hair out of your face with even a slight breeze. Sometimes a halo of flyaways is more conspicuous with an updo, so consider your hair’s texture as well. If you’re like me and only know how to do a couple things with your hair, play with variations of those styles to take you a little out of your comfort zone. Ask your hair stylist for tips on working with your particular hair type: for example, my super long, pin straight hair won’t hold a curl unless sprayed liberally both before and after curling.

Note the matching earrings for this tiki shoot.
Model: Victoria Dagger; photo: Mariah Carle; hair: Danielle Blanchet; corset: Dark Garden.

I always feel a little naked if I forget to grab a pair of earrings to go with the rest of my ensemble: don’t forget to put the small things on your checklist. If you’re shooting several looks, you can try bringing jewelry to match each one, but it’s probably simpler to just choose a classic set that’ll go with everything you brought – it’s really frustrating to be halfway into a look and realize you forgot to change your jewelry!

Lounging playfully on Victorian loveseat.
Model: Victoria Dagger; photo: Chris Mackessy; MUA: Marina Petrenko

Main Wardrobe
This is the obvious one, of course. In my previous article, I advised bringing as many clothing options as you can reasonably carry, and bringing sets that coordinate even if they weren’t actually purchased as a set. While I still maintain that options are a good thing, you definitely shouldn’t just grab blindly. As far as color goes, cross-reference colors that will go well with your location (coordinating, not matching), with those that you like, and those that look best on you. Choose styles that aren’t just “sexy” looking (your opinion of sexy, that is), but also those pieces that fit you best, and that make you feel the most confident.Anything prone to malfunction – the bra with straps that keeps slipping, the pair of stockings that wants to roll down, and that thong that wants to, well, ride up – shouldn’t be at the top of your list. At best they may simply ruin an otherwise great shot, and at worst they may unnerve and distract you. Have an idea of which sets are your favorites and prioritize in advance which looks you’d most like to shoot.

A classic red and black boudoir look styled with ribbon accents.
Model: Victoria Dagger; photo: Light & Shadow; corset: Dark Garden.

Corsets
If you’re wearing a corset for a photoshoot, it’s a bit different than wearing it for an event or waist training. Definitely don’t forget your back panel to hide the back skin crease. You’ll probably be inclined to lace somewhat tighter than usual, but make sure you can still move and pose easily. If you’re wearing an underbust, I recommend fastening your bra hook on a looser setting and pulling the band down (preferably just overlapped by the top of the corset) to help prevent creating a fleshy roll between bra and corset edges. Likewise, wear panties that underlap your corset even a little bit so you don’t have awkward patches of skin showing, or worse, bulging, through. Split the bow from your laces in half and tuck it to either side at the bottom of your corset, creating a V shape arrowing towards your waist. This looks tidier and will keep your laces from becoming untied.

Lace and ribbons accent the styling of this look.
Model: Victoria Dagger; photo: Light & Shadow; corset: Dark Garden.

Stockings
Stockings are so special they get their own paragraph. I previously mentioned dancer tights as being great for smoothing skin tone and texture: you can wear them alone or layer them with thigh-highs. If you wear any kind of patterned tights, make sure you pull the legs on straight so the pattern doesn’t twist around your leg (I notice this a lot with lace tights, where the pattern isn’t as conspicuous as a simple backseam, but there’s still a linear flow). Think through how your stockings will stay up: do you have a good garter belt? Does it match the color scheme of the rest of your outfit? Are you wearing a corset with garters? (If they’re detachable, count to make sure they’re all there.) Are your stockings stay ups? You can get a couple sexy shots of pulling on a stocking, but it’ll get annoying very quickly if fallen stockings interrupt the flow of shooting.

Accessories really add dimension to your look. This fox mask is more geared for an art shoot than boudoir, but you could play with a simpler style such as the lace mask above.
Model: Victoria Dagger; photo: Lauren Luck

Accessories
Aside from the classic bra and panty sets, and the other things I’ve already discussed, you can bring layers and accessories to help layer your ensembles. Gloves are a classic touch – it’s hard to go wrong with lace fingerless mits. Regular fingered gloves can be very classy, but make sure they actually fit the proportions of your hands and don’t make your fingers look chunky. Boleros are the perfect partner for corsets, as they hide the trouble spots at the top of the corset where flesh tends to crease or spill over. A simple piece of ribbon around your throat or wrist can serve in place of metal jewelry. I personally love chokers; some variations to consider include: collars (lace band, corset back, or beaded), cameos, or multi-strand pearls. Consider a mask (lace or masquerade style) to add a bit of intrigue to a few shots.

Don’t forget the shoes! Shooting is a great excuse to wear your less practical heels, but make sure you can still balance in those exaggerated poses.   The placement of the strap and bow on these heels extends the legline flatteringly.
Model: Victoria Dagger; photo: Max Johnson.

Shoes
I definitely have a single pair of heels that is my go-to for shoots and fashion shows (the Betsey Johnson “Dita” laced-back heel in black), but I also try to bring a couple pairs specific to the looks I’ll be shooting. On the one hand, I have a lot of shoes that I pretty much only wear for shoots, but you also don’t want shoes that are so extreme that you’re thinking more about your pinched toes or keeping your balance than feeling good about yourself. Style wise, matching your shoes to your stockings can make your legs look longer. Same goes for an ankle strap that hits below the ankle line.

Don’t be afraid to experiment and just have fun!
Model: Victoria Dagger; photo: Lauren Luck

Did this piece help you sort through your styling ideas?  Got any specific styling questions?  What are your favorite styling tips?  Feel free to chime in, below in the comments!  By the way, I will be styling for Dark Garden’s corset boudoir photobooth at the San Francisco Dickens Fair again this year if you want to stop in and say hello or have your portrait done.

As per a suggestion by The Lingerie Lesbian, here’s a checklist for you!  Open the image in a new tab and print it out as you fill up your “shoot bag.”

Boudoir Shoot Styling Checklist

How to Star in Your Own Boudoir Shoot: Tips From the Pros

The Philantropy Babydoll from the Lola Haze Spring 2013 shoot

Recently, I called in the troops for our semi-annual battle-against-the-clock party: the lingerie photo shoot.  The shoot punctuates the end of the design process–once an item has been shot, it cannot be changed–and begins the great coming-out party for the collection.  I had finally stopped redesigning and fiddling with my Spring/Summer 2012 collection for Lola Haze™  and was ready to send her off into the world.

It was great fun.  This time there were eight of us squeezed into a New York City studio, madly trying to get through all the looks in the collection within the day, before heading out to shoot on location.

Maria, our makeup artist, referred to adjectives about mood and images I provided, as well as the garments themselves, to come up with a playful, bright-lipped look.  After she created her look, her job was to vigilantly watch the shoot and run in to fix lipsticked teeth or flattened hair.  The photographer, Dan, set up lights and kept the model framed, lit, and focused.  Tanya, our gorgeous model, is a pro.  She somehow survived standing for eight hours in heels and rotating through an endless variety of poses while looking incredible and poised.  The assistants, Alyssa, Andi, Guylene, and Isabel scurried around managing the garments, preparing accessories, holding reflectors, and generally being indispensable.  I kept the show on the road.

Lola Haze photoshoot Spring 2013, Brooklyn

Working with pros, when everything runs in smooth harmony, it’s easy to get thousands of beautiful shots in a day.  Seeing my creations come to life on Tanya, gussied up by all the talented people around, is always exciting.  This time it got me thinking about how other women can create sexy boudoir photoshoots.   No, we’re not all 5’10″ 120-pound fashion models, but we all have something hot to show off, and there’s nothing more fun that showing it off in front of a camera!

Since we can’t all assemble a professional team to beautify and retouch us, I asked my team for tips to help everyone stage the perfect home boudoir shoot.

MODEL: Tatjana Sinkevica
A NYC model who has appeared in Project Runway All Stars

Q: How did you learn to pose?
A: I’ve learned to pose just by watching others: dancers, ballerinas, models, magazines, commercials and adding my personality and my own twist into it.  The same comes with the facial expressions– I try a few so clients have a variety to choose from.

Q: What do you think about when you’re posing?
A: When I’m posing I’m thinking about all kinds of things, usually not modeling at all!  Far from it, since posing comes automatically, especially if it’s a catalog shoot [instead of editorial].

Q: What are some tips you can give to regular women to feel and look sexy in front of the camera?
A: Every woman can look great in pictures–it’s all about confidence!!!  Flirtation also helps a lot, so play with the camera, tease it!  Imagine that it’s your boyfriend/husband and fantasize!

Q: Can you tell a story of your most interesting or challenging job?
A: One time I was in China shooting for a cover of a Chinese magazine.  I was shooting in a swimming pool and none of the crew members spoke English so when he wanted me to smile, the photographer leaned over the pool and just squeezed my cheeks.  That was so funny!  I take these situations with humor and as adventures.

Maria unlipsticks Tanya’s teeth, Lola Haze Spring 2013 photoshoot

MAKEUP ARTIST: Maria Ortega
Website: www.mariaortegamakeup.carbonmade.com
Maria Ortega is a self taught, freelance makeup artist based in NYC. Some of her notable past clients are: Project Runway designer Viktor Luna, Snoop Dogg, NBA Championship player Kevin Willis, celebrity stylist Nole Marin and Miss Jessie’s hair care products. Maria Ortega has also done makeup for NYFW runway shows and presentations. Some makeup companies she has worked events for are: Lo’Real, Covergirl, Physician’s Formula, Almay, Maybelline and Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics.

Q: What’s the difference between everyday makeup and boudoir shoot makeup looks?
A:  Everyday makeup and daytime makeup is subtle and enhances a woman’s natural beauty and best facial features. Boudoir makeup brings out the sexy in all women independent of age, size and shape. It releases the inner vixen and provides a sultry look. Usually Boudoir makeup involves a smoky eye, false lashes, cat eye liner and a bold lip.

Q: What are some tips you can give everyday women as they prepare for a boudoir shoot?
A: When a woman is planning a Boudoir shoot it is of the essence to prepare by properly hydrating the skin and having a good skin care routine both for face and body. Eye cream is a must to keep hydration and prevent/repair early signs of aging. Day and night cream on both face and body is of ultra importance. I also recommend and suggest a good facial exfoliator and body polish. Supple skin makes every woman feel beautiful. A Boudoir shoot is an intimate shoot celebrating the beauty of a woman; accepting your shape and size and loving yourself is the best preparation. Confidence is the best accessory.

Q: What products are essential?
A: My favorite makeup products to achieve a boudoir makeup look are: Make Up For Ever HD Foundation, Urban Decay Naked eyeshadow palette, Stile Smudge Pot gel liner, Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics Lip Tar in “NSFW” for that ultra seductive red lip.

Q: What are some sexy makeup trends right now?
A: This Fall will be all about dramatic and bold liner. By adding a cat eye, double wing tip or dramatic gel liner not only will you be making a fashion statement but you will also display strength and a bold feminine expression. As always, a bold lip in a statement color always is trendy. My favorite trend to follow is what looks good on you. If you like your cheekbones…play them up, if you love your eyes, then play them up. Knowing your best facial features and playing them up never goes out of style.

Q: What do you love about being a makeup artist?
A: My favorite thing about being a makeup artist is being able to enhance beauty, transform, innovate and create beauty with cosmetics.  I love editorial and working with talent and models. However, there is an incomparable feeling to working with the everyday woman and transforming not only her face with makeup but also her self esteem. That feeling is one like no other. The smiles my clients have when they look at themselves cannot be compared to any other type of joy. I feel pretty when I do makeup on others.

Maria’s makeup table!

RECENT HOME BOUDOIR SHOOT STAR: Andrea Conti
Lola Haze™ Intern extaordinaire

Q: What were some challenges you faced when doing your boudoir photo shoot?
A: Lacking the right equipment!  Luckily for me, I’m good at photoshop, so even though we were using an iphone, I was able to tweak lighting.  I recommend taking a few test shots and seeing which angles/parts of the room give the best lighting.

Q: What did you wear?
A: Everything from panty hose and heels to a silk robe.  My favorite shots were the ones of me wearing Lola Haze™ lingerie–notably the Liquid Lace Romper and Be My Valentine Chemise.  Having colorful pieces gave the shoot a lot of character.

Q: Do you have any tips for readers who want to do their own boudoir photo shoot?
A: Test lighting! If you have someone to take photos for you at different times of day-this would probably add a lot of variety to the shoot. Also, get creative.  Use a mirror, heels, props-anything! It also helps to have someone you are comfortable with taking the pictures.

Q: Anything else you want to add?
A: Make an afternoon of it-plus cocktails.  I was thankful to have a roommate that is good at hair, makeup AND photography. It ended up being a blast!

I regard Alyssa’s thong styling work, Lola Haze Spring 2013 shoot

DESIGNER: Myself, Laura Mehlinger
Owner/Designer Lola Haze (and someone who has directed a lot of photo shoots)

Q: What kind of lingerie should women choose for a boudoir shoot?
A: Aside from the clear answer that you should find something you feel comfortable and sexy in, there are a few tips for ultimate flattery.  Know your best body part and find lingerie that displays it.  Some near-universally flattering garments are stockings and garter belts (you may worry about the upper thigh show, but there’s nothing sexier), corsets, balconette bras, diaphanous robes, dark colored teddies.

Q: What about color?
A: For color, I would generally avoid white, which can often catch light on body parts you would rather recede, and can appear transparent when you don’t want it to.  Black is always sexy, but can also blend into the background and not define your body if the lighting isn’t great.  I would choose a color.

Q: Other tips?
A: Practice beforehand!  Models aren’t perfect, but look amazing in photos because they already know their best angles. Get out a mirror and flirt with it.  This is especially true for facial expressions, which can convey discomfort or stiffness if that’s how you feel.  If your poses are already figured out, you can just relax when it’s time for the shoot and put your best…something forward!

Please share your boudoir shoot stories and tips with us!

Laura a.k.a. Lola Haze

I’ve loved lingerie since before that was reasonable. I taught myself drawing, designing, and sewing, and after graduating from Harvard with an English degree, immediately went to work disregarding it and following my passion for fashion. After a few years designing for a big company, I went off on my own and started Lola Haze TM, (named after the title character in “Lolita,” my favorite book). Lola Haze is playwear for the bold woman who loves fun and dresses for herself! I feel happy and lucky that I get to love my job so much, and am thrilled to share my lingerie enthusiasm with The Lingerie Addict!

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So You Want to Be a Lingerie Model…?

Raven Le Faye & Victoria Dagger; Photo, Max Johnson; Hair, Erin Lopez

I know some of you are curious.  I’ve seen you asking on Treacle’s Tumblr.  You know you’ve got what it takes to be a lingerie model, or you think you might, anyway, but you have no idea where to begin.  Well, I’m no agent, but I am a designer who also happens to do a fair bit of modeling, so these are my suggestions for you lovelies who would like to model for lingerie designers.  This mostly applies to working with independent designers, rather than large corporations – you’ll need to be agency signed to get in with them.

Victoria Dagger for Dark Garden; Photo, Mariah Carle

The good news is that being a “good” model is not just about having a pretty face and a nice body (whatever that means): there are, in fact, actual skills and abilities involved.  Believe it or not, not everyone who is “pretty” is photogenic, and a lot of girls who photograph exceptionally well are relatively unremarkable in real life.  Of course, without going to Shallow Town, there are still some physical requirements.  A proportionate, standard sized figure is necessary to fit into designers’ standard sized samples; clear skin will make photographers more willing to work with you, especially on an ongoing basis; and you should keep yourself generally well maintained (this includes things like your hair cut and color, clean and trimmed or manicured nails, no habitual giant bruises, scratches, or sunburns, etc).  No, you don’t have to look like a Victoria’s Secret model, unless you want to model for Victoria’s Secret.

Elisa Berlin for Pop Antique

Other physical traits beyond that will depend hugely on the demographic of the designers you’re trying to model for.  Look at the types of models currently being used in the lines you’re interested in modeling for.  Are you the same body type?  Age range?  Do the models all have a certain “look” for a particular line?  Tattoos and facial or body piercings will hold you back from a good amount of vanilla modeling gigs, but certain lines embrace the “alternative” look.  Same with figure quirks – if you’re small busted or full figured, look to model for lines that cater to that niche.  A lot of independent designers are also far less concerned about height, especially for photo modeling (as compared to runway).

Dwoira Galilea for Dark Garden; Photo, Joel Aron

Of course, as the old saying goes, it’s not what you know, it’s who you know.  Independent designers often cast people they already know who like to model for them.  In my experience (and maybe it’s just my San Francisco lifestyle), creative people enjoy having creative friends.  So designers, therefore, have no shortage of talented, attractive friends already willing to model for them, and there is a big advantage for us in working with a known entity.  For me, since I consider my brand a bit of a “lifestyle brand,” knowing the model carries a lot of weight because I know they are a strong representative of the brand.  That said, smart designers know they can’t use the same few faces all the time, so the following are some skills and tips for making yourself more attractive to us.  (As an aside, we also don’t have a lot of money, so expect to get paid in the form of “good, clean, fun” and narcissistic fulfillment.  Possibly trade or maybe champagne and cookies.)

Victoria Dagger for Dollymop for Dark Garden; Photo, Chris Gaede; MUA, Wendy Tran

My previous article, How to Have a Boudoir Photoshoot, mentioned a lot of basics of posing and shoot prep.  The more you shoot, the more the posing concepts become muscle memory and instinctive.  The next step is learning not just how to pose attractively, but how to convey a specific mood with your face and body language. Since lingerie is also known as “intimates,” a blank fashion face won’t fly – some feeling of intimacy and connection with the viewer is necessary. Practice in front of the mirror to build up a versatile range of facial angles and expressions, and study lingerie catalogs and photoshoots for posing ideas.  Make sure you think about your poses in relation to the garments you’re supposed to be modeling.  You want to make sure at the minimum that you’re not covering the garment much, and, preferably, that you’re actually drawing attention to the design features.  Follow your favorite models on Facebook or their web portfolio and try to analyze what you think is effective about their work.

Victoria Dagger; Photo, Mask Photo

Being a self-sufficient model is the biggest in you can have for a designer.  Like a lot of creatives, we’re busy and sometimes easily overwhelmed.  If you’re high maintenance and need a lot of coddling, unless you really knock our socks off we’ll just cast someone with a more professional attitude in the future.  The more multi-talented you can be, the more bookable you are.  Learn how to do your hair a few different ways (hair stylists are always the hardest to book; they have less need for portfolio images and often have salon jobs); invest in some photo-ready makeup and play with it in your spare time; have a variety of shoes and accessories for styling shoots, etc.  The tools for this go in your “shoot bag,” which you should always always have prepared in case a booked team member has to cancel at the last minute.  I’ve had to cover for other models more than once, or been stuck without my makeup bag at inopportune times.  Prepare for the worst.  It’s also a big time saver when you can do these things for yourself: expect to spend at least an hour, each, on hair and makeup if you’re working with professionals.  As I mentioned in my article on multitalented pinup artists, contemporary model Morgana has become very popular with a lot of UK designers because they know she does the work of essentially an entire photo team, by herself, and she does it up to the same standard.

Victoria Dagger for Dollymop Designs; Photo, Lydia Chen; MUA, Chrysalis Rose

Conversely, having an established network of collaborators to call upon is also hugely helpful.  Some shoot concepts call for more complicated elements than can be pulled off with just a model and photographer.  Knowing reliable photographers, makeup artists, and even other models that like to do trade/portfolio shoots, mesh well with you, and consistently provide high quality work makes it much easier to coordinate a shoot, and designers will thank you for it if you save them the hassle of finding people and managing their conflicting schedules.

Victoria Dagger for Pop Antique; Photo, Bill Clearlake

   If you’re not sure where to get started on all of this and have no modeling experience whatsoever, I recommend you make an account on Model Mayhem.  For models, it’s acceptable to only have snapshots to start with, but avoid candid photos, cell phone shots, and self portraits at arm’s length.  If you have a friend with a decent camera, ask them to take a few shots of you.  Keep your bio text relevant, polite, and grammatically correct.  Make sure your listed measurements are accurate.  Bust and hips at their widest point, waist at its narrowest, measuring tape parallel to the floor always.  If I see a model with unlisted measurements, it equates to them not wanting to work with designers: you shoot yourself in the foot if we have to go out of our way to see if you’ll even fit in our samples, because we’re just not going to do it.  We’ll move onto the next profile.

Victoria Dagger and Kelsey Sailors for Dark Garden; Photo, Mask Photo; MUA, Chrysalis Rose

Then, as you build up your portfolio with TFP (trade for pictures) shoots, hang out in the forums, especially the Critiques and Model Colloquy.  There you can learn what makes for stronger images and get targeted advice for modeling.  Of course, there will also be a lot of threads and responses that you’ll have to take with a grain of salt, so develop a thick skin and block out anything that’s not actually constructive.  (The number of people recommending $30 “corsets” in various threads makes me nauseous just thinking about it.)  Browsing others’ work, you’ll also learn about various genres and niches that appeal to and inspire you.

Victoria Dagger for Dark Garden; Photo, Mask Photo

Last-minute additions based on comments and feedback, aka, things I meant to mention or straight-up forgot, with credits to those who reminded me.
-BE RELIABLE.  This goes for any job, right?  But when flaky models are the norm, they make you look even better when you actually show up.  Consistently.  Keep communication lines open if something legitimately arises that prevents you from shooting at your best (temporarily disfiguring or fatiguing illness, losing your job or similar large-scale trauma, etc.) -Sannie, Alisha
-Your ability to get work largely depends on the area you live in, or, at least, are willing to (and do) travel to. -KathTea
-A seamless thong in your-flesh-tone is a must for your shoot bag.  Buy several so you’re not screwed if one ends up in the wash.  -Catherine, Kiss Me Deadly

Are you a lingerie model?  What do you think you’ve done that makes you appealing to designers?  Designers, what do you look for in a model?

Scars & All: My First Boudoir Photoshoot

©Katrinka's Secret

Here’s what I know for sure: lingerie is more than just bras & panties.

For the longest time, I thought I was writing “just” a lingerie blog, or “just” a fashion blog, or “just” a shopping blog. But in the past year, and especially in the last few months, I’ve realized that lingerie isn’t “just” about what we wear beneath our clothes or in the bedroom. It includes parts of our self esteem, our self image, and our own sense of self worth.

©Katrinka's Secret

©Katrinka's Secret

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

One of the reasons I’m so passionate about body positivity (and so intensely against body snark) is because I understand what it’s like to feel like your looks can never and will never measure up. It’s not just about the dozens of airbrushed photos every woman sees everyday, it’s also about living in a culture where it’s acceptable for the scientific community to publish articles asking “Why are Black Women So Unattractive?“, a sentiment that’s been reflected in some of my own conversations about women of color within the lingerie industry.

©Katrinka's Secret

©Katrinka's Secret

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Like so many women, I grew up feeling unattractive. From the guys in grade school who teased me for my dark skin, to the high school friends who told me how much prettier I was with straight hair, to my own personal struggles with depression in young adulthood, I was convinced for the longest time that beauty was this thing that would always be out of reach for me. And though that may sound shallow, the honest reality is physical attractiveness (or people’s perception of it) not only influences the way we feel about ourselves, it also influences how much others respect us, and how much we earn…among other things.

©Katrinka's Secret

©Katrinka's Secret

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Though I grew into my body and became more confident in my own skin in my early 20′s (martial arts helped with that…a LOT), I still felt a little out of place, especially in such a feminine space as lingerie. I have a muscular build. I have scars. I have a wild and glorious afro. I’m curvier than I’ve ever been before. And though these of are parts of myself I value and treasure, I was worried the rest of the world might not be so welcoming. So I asked photographers to smooth out my muscles and airbrush away my scars, and I asked makeup artists to pin up my hair and obscure it’s natural texture. Though it makes me a little ashamed, I was still worried about what others would think.

©Katrinka's Secret

©Katrinka's Secret

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

About a month ago, I had my very first boudoir photoshoot with Katrinka’s Secret. At first I was just going to write about my experience (she’s amazing, and I highly recommend her), but then I realized there was more happening here…at least for me. This is the first photoshoot where the pictures I’ve gotten back really and truly look like me, scars and all.

©Katrinka's Secret

©Katrinka's Secret

 

 

 

 

 

 

Often, we as women are our own worst critics. It’s like we have to beat society to the punch, and say that we don’t like about ourselves before they do. Boudoir photography, on the other hand, is a way of capturing those parts of yourself you love and reflecting them back to you. The camera doesn’t lie. It just shows what’s there. And what’s there is beautiful no matter what the rest of the world says. After my own experience, I believe every woman should gift herself with a boudoir shoot at least once…if not with Katrinka herself, than at least with someone like her.

Have you had a boudoir photoshoot before? How did it make you feel afterwards? I’d love for you to share your personal experiences in the comments.

How to Book a Boudoir Photoshoot: An Interview with Boudoir Photographer Mariah Carle of Bay Area Boudoir

By: Marianne


With winter holidays upon us and Valentine’s Day coming up fast, you might be thinking of boudoir photos as a gift for a certain special someone, like yourself! Last month, I discussed boudoir photography prep and posing tips based on my experience as a model and stylist, but I also wanted the opinion of a specialist. I called up Mariah Carle of Bay Area Boudoir for her perspective. She also contributed some fabulous images, showing a wealth of possibilities to inspire you as you plan your shoot. Mariah takes on clients of all genders, ages, and backgrounds for her boudoir shoots – there’s no statute of limitations on feeling good about yourself!


What sub-genres are encompassed by boudoir photography?
Pin up and retro are very popular these days. Bridal boudoir is also very common: many of my clients want something extra special and sexy to give to their grooms right before they walk down that aisle. Some wedding photographers also do wedding-day boudoir sessions as the blushing bride dresses. Playboy-style glamor photography and artistic nudes are two very different options that allow you bare it all. Most of my boudoir session don’t follow a specific genre, but are more fluid and designed with the people who come to me.

(You may also like: Pin Up Week: Everything You Need to Know About Pin up Lingerie)


How can I involve my significant other in my boudoir shoot?
A very fun and exiting boudoir session I offer is couples boudoir. If your partner is just too shy for the camera, he or she can just watch and help out with ideas and costuming.

I photographed one woman with over two dozen sunflowers because her boyfriend loved them. A bride-to-be wore her wedding lingerie that was trimmed in blue, so her photos had blue lights and her final product was accented in blue. One male client knew his wife loved red, so we had him in red boxers. I have a motorcycle shoot coming up this winter…

What kinds of questions should a prospective client ask?
A few common questions I get are: Will my images be private? Can you do a rush order? Can I make an appointment to meet you in person and come by the studio? How many outfits can I bring? What about hair and makeup?

(You may also like: Pin Up Week: 7 Must Haves for Every Pin Up Lovers Library)

So… what about privacy, then?
Privacy is very important to me. I never release images unless the person being photographed explicitly signs off that I am allowed to.

If requested, I will even destroy all files 24 hours after you take home your prints or album. Just give me a ring, tell me you love the images and please destroy all the evidence. I shed one tear, then delete all the files or cut up the film.


What questions do you ask your clients?
The most common question I am asked is; “How does this all work?” So I start asking the questions to help both of us learn what our goals are.

Who is the photo shoot for? What is the reason for your shoot? A gift? Are you proud of that last 20 pounds you lost? Have you decided you need to just go out and do something daring by being photographed naked? Do you need images for a sexy website?

If this is for a gift, when do we need to have everything ready? What does he/she like?

How would like the final images presented? Do you want a wall print, a book, or a DVD?

What style of images do you like? Bright and cheerful or dark and shadowy? Classic nudes, sexy lingerie, pin up style, leather and handcuffs?

(You may also like: The Glamorous Pin Up Art of Bill Ward)

How much pre-planning takes place regarding wardrobe, location, and props?
Most pre-planning is over the phone for simple shoots. For more complex ones, such as full calendars, it is best to meet up in the studio to go over ideas, props, clothing, sets, and general planning.

Most shoots are about two hours, and around three set lighting/set changes, with five or so outfits. Many times we make small changes as we shoot: change out a top, add a parasol, maybe a lace fan, etc.

If the shoot is in the studio I’ll send you a email with directions. For location shoots I make sure we both know where we are meeting or we can carpool from the studio. Plan for traffic – and lunch! It’s no fun to work for 5 hours, then go right into a photo shoot with no food. Many of my clients come from a distance so I try to help out with what airports are nearby, hotels, shopping, and local places to eat.


What types of packages are most popular and about how much do they cost?
Since most of my work is custom, I don’t have many set packages. I ask several questions and we work to create something special.

All my pricing includes the consultation, photoshoot, retouching, editing, packaging, and images. A few favorites…

Boudoir calendars, each month a custom designed image. Enjoy 12 works of art, year round. For 11” x 14” calendars, $850.00.

Classic albums: I hand place each print into a special leather album. Everything is done in my studio – no sending your images out to a printer. 10 pages at 5” x 7”, $750. 20 pages at 8” x 10”, $2200.00
If you would just like digital images, a ten image (print resolution) DVD is $350; twenty image DVDs are $550.00

(You may also like: Photo Friday: Carlo Pieroni’s Pin Ups)

In your experience, are studio or location shoots more popular?
Due to privacy concerns and nudity laws, most of my work is in studio. I have a revolving supply of props and studio toys, including a fluffy black studio cat Meep, who “helps” with set design. My props can be used and mixed with your own clothing and lingerie.

Custom boudoir photography is also a lot about the lighting, and while soft, natural light is very flattering, studio lights offer much more control and customization. I do have a few super secret locations for those who just need to frolic outdoors in the nude.


How far in advance should a boudoir sitting be booked? How about during peak seasons?
It’s only October 2011 and I already have bookings for Aug 2012. Most of my clients book 3-6 weeks in advance. A few don’t realize that a holiday crept up on them: I’ve even done a Valentine’s Day shoot on February 12 once. I know my clients have very busy lives so I also accept bookings in evenings and during the week.

(You may also like: Photo Friday: Steve Diet Goedde)

Do you have any recommendations for pre-photoshoot nerves?
Some clients like to bring a bottle of wine to celebrate the occasion, but we want to keep it to one small glass. Red wines can flush your skin, and any alcohol makes your eyes look glassy, heavy, and tired. Bring the wine and let’s share a glass after our shoot.

If you back out, I will cry. If both of us have done our jobs with research ideas, talking on the phone, and even coming by the studio to meet me, you will be excited, not nervous.


How do clients find a boudoir photographer? How do clients find “the right” boudoir photographer?
My advice is to spend time doing research, starting online with portfolios and websites. A brilliant fashion or event photographer may not be a great boudoir photographer. Call up studios and talk to the photographers.

Ask your friends if they know any good boudoir photographers. So many of the people I work with are people I know. They already trust me, know the quality of my work, and love my quirky personality. Boudoir is a personal experience, this is not your local mall photo booth. You want someone who will mesh with your ideas, personality and goals.

As for me, I’m sassy. I use bad words, I love to help my clients play dress up, I like to have fun. Find a photographer you want to spend time with, the kind of person you would want to go to lunch with and giggle about your most recent photo session.

Some husbands and boyfriends are uncomfortable with their wives or girlfriends being shot in lingerie by male photographers, so try to keep their feelings in mind as you schedule your shoot!

(You may also like: How to Dress Like Dita von Teese)

Mariah Carle and I will both be at Dark Garden’s “Lady Lovelace” boudoir photography booth at San Francisco’s Dickens Christmas Fair and we would love to see you there. Bay Area residents and visitors can come by for a mini boudoir session with corsets, wardrobe, and expert styling provided by Dark Garden Unique Corsetry and go home with a print that day. If you’re not ready to shoot, we’d be happy to answer in person any questions.

Have you done a boudoir shoot? How did you find your photographer? What do you wish you’d known or known to ask about? Let us know in the comments!

Lingerie Gift Guide: How to Have a Boudoir Photo Shoot

By: Marianne

Boudoir photography is a great gift for your significant other or yourself. You don’t have to be a model to do a private boudoir session, and it’s a great excuse to pamper yourself (and buy some new lingerie). Anyone can do a boudoir session: man, woman, or couple; any skin color, body type, age, sexual orientation, etc. But how do you make the most of it? Below I’ve outlined some tips based on my experience as a model and stylist at boudoir shoots.

Oh – and before you ask, no, it’s not too early for us to be talking about this particular holiday gift. The farther in advance you schedule your shoot, the better. Mariah, the photographer behind Bay Area Boudoir, tells me she’s already got some Valentine’s day shoots booked. The longer you wait, the harder scheduling will be, and the less time your photographer will have to edit your shots amidst their other holiday orders.

“I’m terribly unphotogenic!” I hear you cry. “I don’t know what to do in front of the camera.” The following suggestions are pretty much universal, not just specific to boudoir photography. It’s amazing what the right photographer, poses, lighting, and makeup can do for you… or what the wrong one can.



There are a few things you should do to prepare for your boudoir shoot in advance. Don’t forget to wax or shave your limbs, tweeze your eyebrows, and moisturize the day of your shoot. If you have sensitive skin prone to redness and irritation, do your hair-removing ritual the day before. Make sure to hydrate and get plenty of rest. Eat a light meal before you shoot – you don’t want to be bloated, but you don’t want to pass out either.


What should you bring or wear to a boudoir shoot? As much as you can carry. And considering the size of the average piece of lingerie, that’s probably quite a lot! You’ll want to have options, but depending on the length of your session you might not have time for too many costume changes or lengthy deliberations, so it’s best to have an idea of your favorite looks. Stick with matching or at least coordinating lingerie sets. Stockings or tights will smooth out your skin tone – you might even want to wear a pair of dancers’ tights under your fancy stockings, to smooth and lift. They’re also available as industrial-strength fishnets. Feel free to bring a prop related to your hobby, job, or personality.

Dressing in layers gives you the option of slowly stripping down. If you’re planning on shooting topless, implied, or full nudes, arrive in loose-fitting clothing, commando and sans bra, to avoid impressions from your clothing on your skin. Shoot this segment first, then your lingerie looks. Personally, I have a thing for corset marks, so you may wish to make a conscious decision about the appearance of imprints according to your tastes.

Even if you’re going for a natural look, you will need to wear (some) makeup. Powder over moisturizer or foundation is a must to even out your skin tone. Even the strongest brows need to be shaded in (I use eye shadow and an angled brush), otherwise the light shines through them and they look patchy. You’ll want at least some light eyeliner to keep your eyes from getting lost.

Often photographers will have a makeup artist, or MUA, available for an additional fee, or you can hire your own. You may want to have the makeup artist “contour” your features, to accentuate your bone structure. If there will be a hair stylist, don’t wash your hair that morning – a small amount of buildup actually makes their job easier.

The basic rule for posing, and the difficulty, is that you have to be aware of basically your whole body, from head to toe. A good photographer (or assistant, or stylist) will suggest adjustments to your pose as they are shooting so you don’t have to figure it all out on your own.

The first thing you need to think about is your posture. Stand up straight, and keep your shoulders down. Lengthen the back of your neck – don’t try to elongate it by tilting your chin up, unless you really want to show the world your neatly maintained nostrils. Usually, “good posture” means tucking your pelvis in line with the rest of your spine, but for photographs this is less flattering to your rear and upper thighs. Tilt your pelvis backwards; which is to say: pop your butt. Try to remember to suck in your stomach or gently engage your core muscles.

You might have heard the word “angles” used in reference to modeling and had no idea what it means. The angles referred to are those created by the position of your limbs and joints, with the intention of creating a pleasing silhouette. Exaggerate your positions – arching your back? Arch it more. Leaning? Lean farther. Weight on one side? Pop your hip. I said pop your hip! (Seriously, this dramatic weight shift reads much better on camera than a casual list – your weight should be entirely supported by one leg.) You might be wondering what to do with your arms – try gracefully laying your hands on the side of your face, your shoulder, your hip, your thigh.

If you’re short (like me) and want to look longer and leaner in your photos, there are some things you can do. First, make sure your photographer is shooting you from a lower perspective – he or she will probably crouch or kneel to take the shot. Secondly, extend one leg towards the camera, as if you are stepping forward, but with your weight on the hip behind. Limbs extended slightly towards the camera will appear longer; limbs pointing directly at the camera will become foreshortened (which you don’t want). Always point your toes, keeping the line of your foot as an extension from your leg. Unless you are deliberately taking a wide stance, keep your knees together for a more elegant look. This is especially important for seated poses, in which you’ll also want to perch on the edge of your seat so that your thighs and rear don’t spread and flatten.

Probably the hardest thing to control is your face, and especially for boudoir portraits, this is how you convey a lot of the mood. For boudoir, I don’t think you can go wrong with a relaxed smile. Are you playing up the demure ingenue or the seductive temptress? Trying to channel Bettie Page or a Gil Elvgren pinup doll? The first choice you’ll probably want to make is whether you want to make direct eye contact with the camera or hold your gaze askance, and you may find one of them feels a lot more comfortable.

Whether posing your face or body, it helps a lot to practice in advance in front of a mirror. Study poses that you like in illustrations or photographs – what makes them work? Will they work for you or only for a 5’10” professional fashion model? It’s easy to get very excited but make sure you’ve got your reality check turned on.



It’s very important to communicate with the photographer. Do you have a favorite side of your face? What do you think are your best (and worst) features? What mood are you going for? Some of these things should also be communicated to the makeup artist – what color eyeshadow do you think best complements your eyes, for example? Self-conscious about your hooded eyelids? Love cupid’s bow lips?

Speaking of communicating with photographers, next month, I’m interviewing Mariah Carle of Bay Area Boudoir (who I mentioned in the first paragraph) to get her experiences and advice.

Have you done a boudoir photoshoot or are you planning on doing one? What was your experience? Let us know in the comments, especially if you’ve got a local photographer to recommend! Oh, and if you’ve already had your boudoir shoot, don’t forget to send your photos to Treacle so she can post them in the fan album on The Lingerie Addict Facebook page!

Image Credits: (in order of appearance)
Mariah Carle
Paolo Diavolo
Lydia Chen
Sam Guss
Lydia Chen
Mask Photo
Chris Gaede
Jesse Alford
Chris Gaede
Karolina Marek
Karolina Marek
Chris Mackessy