Posts in category "art and photos"

Pinup 101: 3 Illustrators You Need to Know

If you’re a fan of pinup style, a familiarity with pinup illustration is essential.  Pinup illustration, in my mind, is the canon of the look and feel of the pinup lifestyle.  Three artists in particular stand out as noteworthy, iconic, and legendary within the field of classic pinup artists.

Petty: the Classic Pin-Up Art of George Petty

3.  George Petty

The Petty Girl debuted in the premiere issue of Esquire in 1933, and was a virtually constant attraction for the next 7 years.  Even in his later work you can see George Petty’s Deco beginnings, in the crispness of folds, downcast gazes, thin brows and dewy eyes.  His signatures include simple red line, telephones, ballet point shoes, and thick calves and ankles, which drew him some criticism in the mid 40s as their stylization reached its peak.  Like many an artist, Petty often used a close family member as a model: his daughter, Marjorie.  George Petty was a family man.  His half-rendered minimalization of the Petty Girl at the end of his tenure at Esquire correlated with his success with his better-paid advertising work, for the likes of Jantzen swimsuits and Old Gold Cigarettes.  Petty’s work remained so popular that in 1950 a musical romantic comedy titled The Petty Girlwas made, a non-biographical romp about an illustrator by the name of George Petty.

Alberto Vargas: Works from the Max Vargas Collection

2.  Alberto Vargas

Of the three, I must admit Peruvian-born Alberto Vargas is my personal favorite, as his girls seem the most dignified and elegant.  Like Petty, Vargas got his start airbrushing his father’s photographic work.  There’s no question that Vargas’s true calling was drawing beautiful girls, in one case as girlish as young Shirley Temple, though his showgirl wife often stood in as his personal model in his early days.  In a fit of pique, he famously bragged to his coworkers in Hollywood that he could easily have George Petty’s job if he wanted it, and subsequently put his money where his mouth was, landing the position and drawing pinup girls for Esquire.  They rebranded his name, dropping the “S” and birthing the Varga girl.  The business arrangement went poorly, as Esquire’s strict contract, naively signed by a desperate Vargas, demanded more drawings than he could reasonably produce, and essentially claimed exclusive rights to the Varga name.  Vargas eventually found sanctuary in Playboy where he was much better treated and appreciated.  Vargas’s figures are supremely elegant.  He was devoted to accurate anatomy, though his later work features improbably large and perky breasts.  Most notable of his recurring themes are gauzy, sheer garments, stockings, and hats with large, floppy brims.

Gil Elvgren: All His Glamorous American Pinups

1.  Gil Elvgren

Gil Elvgren, as I mentioned last week, is probably the best known and most archetypal of pinup illustrators.  Within the illustration industry, Elvgren is the one whose technique is most admired.  Elvgren originally intended to be an architect but soon switched gears to painting and devoted himself to it fiercely.  At Chicago’s prestigious American Academy of Art he pushed through his coursework at nearly double speed, then teaching, as well as forming lasting friendships with other artists, notably Al Buell and Joyce Ballantyne, both respected pinup artists in their own right.  As George Petty was getting his start with Esqurie, Gil Elvgren was first hired by Brown & Bigelow, the world’s largest calendar company, then their biggest competitor, Dow, who commissioned a series of pinup portraits.  Eventually he took a salaried position at Brown & Bigelow which allowed him the freedom to continue non-competiting illustration work for magazine stories and advertising gigs, including his long-running work with Coca-Cola.  An Elvgren pinup is significantly more situational than a Petty or Vargas; her environment is not only fully fleshed out but provides the context for her characteristic look of surprise.  While I personally find the endless upskirt gags somewhat demeaning, those skirts are expertly rendered, and the poses are more fluid and graceful than even Vargas, whose work occasionally has a posed stiffness.  Women, environment, clothing, furniture, and animals alike seemingly pose no challenge to Elvgren’s relentless skill.

Which is your favorite of the three illustrators above?  Do you have another favorite not listed?  He may not be as well-known, but my own artist of choice is Fritz Willis.

8 Corsetieres to Follow on Instagram

Freshly laced ribbon corset by Pop Antique on Instagram.

It seems that 75% of what I do with my iPhone is check Instagram. Luckily, I can combine my idle habit with research by following my corsetmaking colleagues, thereby continually staying informed and inspired. What I love about Instagram is that it emphasizes a certain spontaneity and behind-the-scenes feel, and is also a bit more intimate.  Unfortunately, a couple of my favorite corsetieres aren’t on Instagram.  Conversely, this isn’t a directory of all the corsetieres on Instagram; I’m mostly emphasizing those who consistently post their work, but not by simply re-posting professional images thereof.   For a true backstage peek at handmade corsetry, these are the corsetieres I’ve been following.

If you don’t have Instagram, you can view any user’s public feed at http://web.stagram.com/n/username.

Sheer corset in progress by UK-based Alicia Rose on Instagram.

Alicia Rose
@iamaliciarose: Freelance lingerie designer and corsetiere. UK-based, with a great eye for composition of both her insta-shots and the designs she previews on the platform. As well as these works in progress and studio snapshots, expect to see florals and English pastoral views. I only recently started following Alicia, but am really loving what I’ve seen thus far.

Corset laid flat, by Alige Corsetry in Milan.

Alige Corsetry
@Alige: Italian corsetiere. Lots and lots of studio shots, from works-in-progress to samples on live models; also makes accessories and other lingerie.

Crikey Aphrodite
@crikeyaphrodite: Corsetiere, new to Instagram, but not to corsets. There’s a definite emphasis on cat pictures, but maybe if we all go show her some appreciation she’ll show us more workshop tidbits, along with the admittedly-adorable cat.

Metallic leather corset gown by Hannah Light of Neon Duchess.

Hannah Light
@hannahlight: Neon Duchess on Facebook. A comfy mix of workroom and personal shots populate her feed. Her corset aesthetic is an interesting, quirky and curvaceous blend.

Hand detailing in progress on this runway-ready custom corset by Autumn Adamme of Dark Garden.

Autumn Adamme
@missdarkgarden: Designer/proprietress of corset legend Dark Garden. Owned by a Russian Blue (corsetieres are typically a bunch of cat ladies, if you haven’t gathered). New styles, custom ensembles for fancy events, and the occasional bit of found inspiration accumulate here. For more Dark Garden goodness and then some, you may also want to follow @tulitulip, @hollybobisuthi, @kalicodelafey, and @kristin argue.

A stunningly embellished classic red and black ensemble by Sweet Carousel Corsetry.

Elise Scarytale
@sweetcarousel
: Sweet Carousel Corsetry.  Inspiration, lifestyle, personal style, and a healthy proportion of workroom snapshots with the occasional professionally shot photo thrown in.  Stylistically, Sweet Carousel works the hard/soft dichotomy pretty comfortably, executing styles with lace and bows with the same ease as those with studded leather.

Custom patterns and corsetry supplies are offered by Sew Curvy. Here, Julia Bremble carefully places lace accents on a custom patterned underbust.

Julia Bremble
@marmaladekiss: Perhaps better known as Sew Curvy Corset Kits. Corsets in progress, new materials for the web shop, and personal snapshots mingle in her feed.

Me, in a Pop Antique knit corset and layered handkerchief hem skirt ensemble at the opening of the De Young museum’s Jean Paul Gaultier exhibit.

Pop Antique
@popantique: Lastly, if you are interested in BTS shots of Pop Antique, Dollhouse Bettie, and Dark Garden laced with doses of cat belly, tea porn, and San Francisco scenery, you can find me on Instagram as (what else?) @popantique.  I’ve already warned you that I’m pretty addicted to IG, but I at least try to maintain a certain level of aesthetic standard on my shots.

The Lingerie Addict herself on Instagram, preparing for a shoot with Viva Van Story.

Stay tuned for future installments! I’ve got plenty more designers, boutique owners, and classic addicts in my feed that I’d love to share with you…  If you’re not following her yet, “The” Addict is of course @thelingerieaddictWho do you love to follow? Please share your favorite lingerie-related Instagrammers in the comments; I’d love to scope out some new eye candy.

Interactive Illustration: Show Us Your Dream Valentine’s Day Lingerie Ensemble!

By: Marianne

I’d be lying to myself (and all of you) if I didn’t admit that my monthly columns here at The Lingerie Addict tend to the verbose. So this Valentine’s Day, I invite you to join me in a hands-on activity: I’ve drawn a curvaceous fashion figure with key style lines for lingerie sketched in. You, dear readers, get to print this lady out and draw a Valentine’s Day outfit, or any other lingerie that comes to mind. For inspiration, I’ve also provided several lovely Gil Elvgren illustrations of ladies in dishabille.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Style lines included several levels of bra coverage, bra band, longline bra band, natural waist line, low rise waist, classic panty leg line, boyshort leg line, stomach control panel, thigh highs, single garter placement, elbow, wrist, and collar lines, and short and cap sleeves. Use the lines as marked or create new lines parallel to them to design lingerie and loungewear. Trim your lingerie with ruffles or lace, and add hats and other accessories to complete the look.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It can be your favorite outfit from years past.
It could be your outfit for this upcoming Valentine’s Day.
It could be what you are wearing right now because you are always just that fancy.
It could be the lingerie look you’ve dreamed of for your hypothetical (or real!) burlesque debut.

After all, a picture is worth a thousand words.

(small)

(large)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Post a link to your sketch in the comments, using anything from ImageShack and Photobucket to an Instagram post. I’d love to see!

Lingerie Gift Guide: How to Have a Boudoir Photo Shoot

By: Marianne

Boudoir photography is a great gift for your significant other or yourself. You don’t have to be a model to do a private boudoir session, and it’s a great excuse to pamper yourself (and buy some new lingerie). Anyone can do a boudoir session: man, woman, or couple; any skin color, body type, age, sexual orientation, etc. But how do you make the most of it? Below I’ve outlined some tips based on my experience as a model and stylist at boudoir shoots.

Oh – and before you ask, no, it’s not too early for us to be talking about this particular holiday gift. The farther in advance you schedule your shoot, the better. Mariah, the photographer behind Bay Area Boudoir, tells me she’s already got some Valentine’s day shoots booked. The longer you wait, the harder scheduling will be, and the less time your photographer will have to edit your shots amidst their other holiday orders.

“I’m terribly unphotogenic!” I hear you cry. “I don’t know what to do in front of the camera.” The following suggestions are pretty much universal, not just specific to boudoir photography. It’s amazing what the right photographer, poses, lighting, and makeup can do for you… or what the wrong one can.



There are a few things you should do to prepare for your boudoir shoot in advance. Don’t forget to wax or shave your limbs, tweeze your eyebrows, and moisturize the day of your shoot. If you have sensitive skin prone to redness and irritation, do your hair-removing ritual the day before. Make sure to hydrate and get plenty of rest. Eat a light meal before you shoot – you don’t want to be bloated, but you don’t want to pass out either.


What should you bring or wear to a boudoir shoot? As much as you can carry. And considering the size of the average piece of lingerie, that’s probably quite a lot! You’ll want to have options, but depending on the length of your session you might not have time for too many costume changes or lengthy deliberations, so it’s best to have an idea of your favorite looks. Stick with matching or at least coordinating lingerie sets. Stockings or tights will smooth out your skin tone – you might even want to wear a pair of dancers’ tights under your fancy stockings, to smooth and lift. They’re also available as industrial-strength fishnets. Feel free to bring a prop related to your hobby, job, or personality.

Dressing in layers gives you the option of slowly stripping down. If you’re planning on shooting topless, implied, or full nudes, arrive in loose-fitting clothing, commando and sans bra, to avoid impressions from your clothing on your skin. Shoot this segment first, then your lingerie looks. Personally, I have a thing for corset marks, so you may wish to make a conscious decision about the appearance of imprints according to your tastes.

Even if you’re going for a natural look, you will need to wear (some) makeup. Powder over moisturizer or foundation is a must to even out your skin tone. Even the strongest brows need to be shaded in (I use eye shadow and an angled brush), otherwise the light shines through them and they look patchy. You’ll want at least some light eyeliner to keep your eyes from getting lost.

Often photographers will have a makeup artist, or MUA, available for an additional fee, or you can hire your own. You may want to have the makeup artist “contour” your features, to accentuate your bone structure. If there will be a hair stylist, don’t wash your hair that morning – a small amount of buildup actually makes their job easier.

The basic rule for posing, and the difficulty, is that you have to be aware of basically your whole body, from head to toe. A good photographer (or assistant, or stylist) will suggest adjustments to your pose as they are shooting so you don’t have to figure it all out on your own.

The first thing you need to think about is your posture. Stand up straight, and keep your shoulders down. Lengthen the back of your neck – don’t try to elongate it by tilting your chin up, unless you really want to show the world your neatly maintained nostrils. Usually, “good posture” means tucking your pelvis in line with the rest of your spine, but for photographs this is less flattering to your rear and upper thighs. Tilt your pelvis backwards; which is to say: pop your butt. Try to remember to suck in your stomach or gently engage your core muscles.

You might have heard the word “angles” used in reference to modeling and had no idea what it means. The angles referred to are those created by the position of your limbs and joints, with the intention of creating a pleasing silhouette. Exaggerate your positions – arching your back? Arch it more. Leaning? Lean farther. Weight on one side? Pop your hip. I said pop your hip! (Seriously, this dramatic weight shift reads much better on camera than a casual list – your weight should be entirely supported by one leg.) You might be wondering what to do with your arms – try gracefully laying your hands on the side of your face, your shoulder, your hip, your thigh.

If you’re short (like me) and want to look longer and leaner in your photos, there are some things you can do. First, make sure your photographer is shooting you from a lower perspective – he or she will probably crouch or kneel to take the shot. Secondly, extend one leg towards the camera, as if you are stepping forward, but with your weight on the hip behind. Limbs extended slightly towards the camera will appear longer; limbs pointing directly at the camera will become foreshortened (which you don’t want). Always point your toes, keeping the line of your foot as an extension from your leg. Unless you are deliberately taking a wide stance, keep your knees together for a more elegant look. This is especially important for seated poses, in which you’ll also want to perch on the edge of your seat so that your thighs and rear don’t spread and flatten.

Probably the hardest thing to control is your face, and especially for boudoir portraits, this is how you convey a lot of the mood. For boudoir, I don’t think you can go wrong with a relaxed smile. Are you playing up the demure ingenue or the seductive temptress? Trying to channel Bettie Page or a Gil Elvgren pinup doll? The first choice you’ll probably want to make is whether you want to make direct eye contact with the camera or hold your gaze askance, and you may find one of them feels a lot more comfortable.

Whether posing your face or body, it helps a lot to practice in advance in front of a mirror. Study poses that you like in illustrations or photographs – what makes them work? Will they work for you or only for a 5’10” professional fashion model? It’s easy to get very excited but make sure you’ve got your reality check turned on.



It’s very important to communicate with the photographer. Do you have a favorite side of your face? What do you think are your best (and worst) features? What mood are you going for? Some of these things should also be communicated to the makeup artist – what color eyeshadow do you think best complements your eyes, for example? Self-conscious about your hooded eyelids? Love cupid’s bow lips?

Speaking of communicating with photographers, next month, I’m interviewing Mariah Carle of Bay Area Boudoir (who I mentioned in the first paragraph) to get her experiences and advice.

Have you done a boudoir photoshoot or are you planning on doing one? What was your experience? Let us know in the comments, especially if you’ve got a local photographer to recommend! Oh, and if you’ve already had your boudoir shoot, don’t forget to send your photos to Treacle so she can post them in the fan album on The Lingerie Addict Facebook page!

Image Credits: (in order of appearance)
Mariah Carle
Paolo Diavolo
Lydia Chen
Sam Guss
Lydia Chen
Mask Photo
Chris Gaede
Jesse Alford
Chris Gaede
Karolina Marek
Karolina Marek
Chris Mackessy

Hidden History: Female Pin-up Artists

By Marianne

In the golden age of pinups, it wasn’t unheard of for illustrators to use their wife or their daughter – or both! — as models for their iconic works. Of course, it was a male-dominated field, so they generally didn’t have the option of using themselves. But of the few women creating pinups (with photography or illustration), there were several notable models-turned-artists. Today, one very prolific contemporary model also shoots many of her own photos. Today’s history lesson will cover a bit about the background, style, and working habits of these women.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Of the few working female pinup illustrators, Zoë Mozert was the most well known, as well as being very well-connected with other “big name” illustrators of the day. Born Alice Adelaide Moser, she didn’t think the name would lend itself well to fame, and changed it as soon as possible. “I looked through a name dictionary for a new first name and when there were finally no pages left I settled on Zoe.”

Mozert began modeling to pay for her tuition at the Philadelphia School of Industrial Art. When she moved to New York, she was very productive in painting covers for pulp and movie magazines. She joined pinup legend George Petty in judging 1938′s Miss America Beauty Pageant. It seems that she switched from painting movie stars to pinups in 1941, when she signed a fifteen-year contract with calendar printer Brown & Bigelow. Mozert continued to paint for Hollywood, and several of her movie posters were quite well known in their day.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Much of Mozert’s work is characterized by her soft pastel style, and her figures ranged from fully clothed to fully nude. Most were on minimalist backgrounds, often just uneven splotches of color, further drawing attention to the subject rather than emphasizing the setting or situation. When she used herself as a model, she would carefully light her studio, then use a photograph or a mirror to create the reference. She also modeled for Earl Moran and Alberto Vargas (shown above).

Joyce Ballantyne was another of the top three “girls club” pinup artists, and like Zoë Mozert she enjoyed the friendship of several other top artists of the day. She studied at the Academy of Art in Chicago for two years. There she first met Gil Elvgren, who was teaching there at the time. Elvgren and Ballantyne later came to regard each other as peers as well as friends, and would share assignments.
In 1945, he recommended her to Brown & Bigelow, who took her on and introduced her as “the brightest young star on the horizon of illustrative art.” She was honored with creating a calendar for their ongoing Artist’s Sketch Pad series. Ballantyne did illustrations for other calendar companies as well as magazines such as Penthouse and Esquire.

As was often the case with pinup artists, Ballantyne did work for national advertising campaigns, including Coca-Cola. Chances are, most of you have seen one of Ballantyne’s illustrations without realizing it: the iconic Coppertone girl was a creation of hers, partially inspired by Art Frahm’s infamous panties falling down series.

Ballantyne pinups have a very classic look. She painted her girls in oil on canvas and was very technically skilled. Her images are more situational, with a more fleshed out location and action. Unfortunately, I was unable to find many photographs of her, let alone one of her posing. This may imply that she worked from a mirror, rather than a photograph.

Photographer Bunny Yeager (née Linnea Eleanor Yeager) was one of the most popular models in Florida in the 40s, though she is now best known for her photographs of Bettie Page. She always knew she wanted to be a model, and studied pinup art and Hollywood starlets before officially enrolling in a modeling course. (Alas, there was no America’s Next Top Model at this time.) She chose the psuedonym “Bunny” from a Lana Turner film. In 1949, Joe DiMaggio crowned her “Miami Sports Queen.” She was also an early adopter of two-piece bathing suits, which she made herself.

In 1954 she began taking photographs, and her experience on the other side of the lens put her way ahead of the learning curve. “I never intended to become a professional photographer but after I took a course it seemed like it might be a good idea – something to pursue after I got too old to model. In class, one of my photos of my model friend Maria Stinger caught the eye of my teacher and he suggested I send it in to a magazine. I did, and sold it immediately.” Understandably, models were more at ease working with a female photographer, particularly one who also modeled. That same year, she met Bettie Page and took most of the photographs from their famous collaboration.

If you want to learn her techniques, those of you with deep pockets can purchase a vintage copy of Bunny Yeager’s 1964 book, “How I Photograph Myself.” (Am I lusting? Yes.) She also wrote some twenty-odd other books on the subject of pinup photography. Easier to find are more recently published collections of her photographs, such as “Bunny Yeager’s Bikini Girls of the 1950s.”

Spanish-born Morgana is something of a renaissance woman. Currently 29, she’s still one of the most prolific corset models, particularly in England, where she currently resides. The opposite of Bunny Yeager, Morgana’s original training was in photography and graphic art. Iberian Black Arts is the name of her photography studio. These days, she is also working as a professional makeup artist.

It’s hard to talk about any single aspect of Morgana’s career, since so much of her work features her donning more than one proverbial hat. Many of the shots that you see of her from FairyGothMother, Maya Hansen, Morgana Femme Couture, Ladie Lucie, etc, etc, so on and so forth, feature her photography as well as her face. She’s been published numerous times, modeling on the cover of magazines and shooting the covers of new CDs.

While most models are sufficiently skilled in makeup enough to do their own face, few are equally qualified at both tasks. Morgana does makeup under the name Fatale Beauty, doing colorful and vintage-inspired looks. Notably, she’s painted the face of Ulorin Vex, another top alt model. Naturally, she then proceeded to photograph Miss Vex as well (shown above).

It’s easy to see why Morgana gets so much work. Knowing that they can hire one person to do the work of a full team, and do it competently, makes a very easy hiring decision for designers if they like her look. To my eyes, her modeling work with other photographers looks more relaxed and diverse than her self-portraits, but that may be because the self-shot looks tend to be for catalogs and lookbooks. Her naturally tiny waist and hourglass figure make her a natural at corset modeling, while having a natural hair color and lack of tattoos gives her a broader commercial appeal.

I hope you enjoyed my article on pin-up self-portraitists. What do you think of these artists? I’d love for you to tell me in the comments.

Lingerie Art Legends: Enoch Bolles

Though Gil Elvgren is one of pin-up’s most recognized artists today, there were plenty of other illustrators painting glamorous portraits around the same time as he. One I’ve recently re-discovered is Enoch Bolles.

Born in 1883, Bolles were a versatile illustrator who created art for products as diverse as raisins and cigarette lighters. But what he’s most remembered for today (and what’s most relevant to this blog) is his pin-up work.

Bolles illustrated over 200 covers for Film Fun magazine and another 300 covers for other risque pulp publications. His trademark sexy, skimpy costumes went on to the define certain key aspects of the pin-up look for the next several decades.


What do you think of Enoch Bolles art? If you like the images shown here, I’ve posted several more to The Lingerie Addict Facebook page. Click the link and take a look!