Posts in category "art"

Pinup 101: 3 Illustrators You Need to Know

If you’re a fan of pinup style, a familiarity with pinup illustration is essential.  Pinup illustration, in my mind, is the canon of the look and feel of the pinup lifestyle.  Three artists in particular stand out as noteworthy, iconic, and legendary within the field of classic pinup artists.

Petty: the Classic Pin-Up Art of George Petty

3.  George Petty

The Petty Girl debuted in the premiere issue of Esquire in 1933, and was a virtually constant attraction for the next 7 years.  Even in his later work you can see George Petty’s Deco beginnings, in the crispness of folds, downcast gazes, thin brows and dewy eyes.  His signatures include simple red line, telephones, ballet point shoes, and thick calves and ankles, which drew him some criticism in the mid 40s as their stylization reached its peak.  Like many an artist, Petty often used a close family member as a model: his daughter, Marjorie.  George Petty was a family man.  His half-rendered minimalization of the Petty Girl at the end of his tenure at Esquire correlated with his success with his better-paid advertising work, for the likes of Jantzen swimsuits and Old Gold Cigarettes.  Petty’s work remained so popular that in 1950 a musical romantic comedy titled The Petty Girlwas made, a non-biographical romp about an illustrator by the name of George Petty.

Alberto Vargas: Works from the Max Vargas Collection

2.  Alberto Vargas

Of the three, I must admit Peruvian-born Alberto Vargas is my personal favorite, as his girls seem the most dignified and elegant.  Like Petty, Vargas got his start airbrushing his father’s photographic work.  There’s no question that Vargas’s true calling was drawing beautiful girls, in one case as girlish as young Shirley Temple, though his showgirl wife often stood in as his personal model in his early days.  In a fit of pique, he famously bragged to his coworkers in Hollywood that he could easily have George Petty’s job if he wanted it, and subsequently put his money where his mouth was, landing the position and drawing pinup girls for Esquire.  They rebranded his name, dropping the “S” and birthing the Varga girl.  The business arrangement went poorly, as Esquire’s strict contract, naively signed by a desperate Vargas, demanded more drawings than he could reasonably produce, and essentially claimed exclusive rights to the Varga name.  Vargas eventually found sanctuary in Playboy where he was much better treated and appreciated.  Vargas’s figures are supremely elegant.  He was devoted to accurate anatomy, though his later work features improbably large and perky breasts.  Most notable of his recurring themes are gauzy, sheer garments, stockings, and hats with large, floppy brims.

Gil Elvgren: All His Glamorous American Pinups

1.  Gil Elvgren

Gil Elvgren, as I mentioned last week, is probably the best known and most archetypal of pinup illustrators.  Within the illustration industry, Elvgren is the one whose technique is most admired.  Elvgren originally intended to be an architect but soon switched gears to painting and devoted himself to it fiercely.  At Chicago’s prestigious American Academy of Art he pushed through his coursework at nearly double speed, then teaching, as well as forming lasting friendships with other artists, notably Al Buell and Joyce Ballantyne, both respected pinup artists in their own right.  As George Petty was getting his start with Esqurie, Gil Elvgren was first hired by Brown & Bigelow, the world’s largest calendar company, then their biggest competitor, Dow, who commissioned a series of pinup portraits.  Eventually he took a salaried position at Brown & Bigelow which allowed him the freedom to continue non-competiting illustration work for magazine stories and advertising gigs, including his long-running work with Coca-Cola.  An Elvgren pinup is significantly more situational than a Petty or Vargas; her environment is not only fully fleshed out but provides the context for her characteristic look of surprise.  While I personally find the endless upskirt gags somewhat demeaning, those skirts are expertly rendered, and the poses are more fluid and graceful than even Vargas, whose work occasionally has a posed stiffness.  Women, environment, clothing, furniture, and animals alike seemingly pose no challenge to Elvgren’s relentless skill.

Which is your favorite of the three illustrators above?  Do you have another favorite not listed?  He may not be as well-known, but my own artist of choice is Fritz Willis.

Lingerie school: the corset and basque project

Design by Karolina Laskowska: backstage at the catwalk show

As usual, the end of term at lingerie school (ak.a. the Contour Fashion course at De Montfort University) saw every student in a state of panic – deadlines were starting to loom from all angles and stress was mounting!  Our final assignment was the corset & basque project – a rather self-explanatory project that required us to design, pattern cut and sew a corset and basque, with an extra bit of pressure – our class also had to organise and present a fashion show with our final designs! As unfortunate as it was that you all missed the catwalk, I thought I’d make up for it as best as I could by sharing some of my classmates’ and my own designs and explaining our inspirations behind them. Enjoy!

Karolina Laskowska

On the catwalk, photo by Andy Espin

Sketchbook work

Experimental photography

Idea sketches

Textile development – appliqué and flossing

Illustrations of final designs

Using the colour black is my comfort zone when it comes to design, so I really wanted to push myself and embrace colours in this project. I began by looking at flowers; orchids with their tropical hues, the process of decay in cut flowers and finally the surreal colours within Jiang Zhi’s photographic series ‘Love Letters’, where beautiful flower arrangements are doused in methylated spirits and set alight, surrounding them in an intensely beautiful blue flame.  I was also greatly influenced by my Summer internship with Sparklewren corsetry – I’m still in awe of Jenni’s beautiful use of lace appliqué and had been dying to use the technique on some of my own work. My final designs ended up far more colourful than I could have ever anticipated – and I’m very pleased to say I’m incredibly happy with the final garments and how they looked on the catwalk!

Charlotte Spence

Final corset on the catwalk

Sketchbook and textile development

Sketchbook development

Sketchbook development

Final design illustrations

Corset details

Charlotte Spence’s designs were originally inspired by Summer Lupins, pastel shades and the blending of colours.  The main fabric for her corset was a hand dyed brocade that incorporated hand dyed pleats. She wanted to use ribboning as an embellishment, which led to her studying hand carved candles and opening the pleats into organic shapes to create interesting lines on her corset.  The corset’s shape originated from a 1885 sports corset pattern, with the eyelets supposedly ‘aerating’ the body.

Emily Roberts

Final corset on the catwalk

Final basque on the catwalk

Initial inspiration

Sketchbook development

Sketchbook development

Emily was inspired by a trip to Barcelona and its amazing architecture, particularly Gaudi’s work and traditional Spanish buildings.  She focused on metalwork and recreated the aesthetic by using lace with embellishment.

Samantha Thorburn

Final garment on the catwalk

Sketchbook development

Design development

Design development

Final garment details

Samantha’s designs were inspired by the characters Odette and Odile from Swan Lake, after seeing the Birmingham Royal Ballet perform the ballet. She also went to see the collection of historical ballet costumes at the Royal Opera house and was particularly taken with the embroidered details on the costumes, as well as the stories and personalities of the characters.  Her catwalk basque represented the character of Odette.

Akaibi Vine

Final garments backstage

Catwalk back views

Sketchbook development

Textile development

Design development

Final designs

Final garment details

Akaibi’s initial inspiration came from a visit to photographer Tim Walker’s ‘Storyteller’ exhibition and the the Disney inspired Christmas window displays at British department store Harrods. She wanted to create a modern twist on fairytales – not just the characters and stories but the backdrops, costumes and atmosphere created when modern artists turn their hand to these classic tales. She explored the idea of using a whitework (a type of embroidery), being more inspired by textures and finishes than colours or prints. For her final garments she laminated various fabrics and worked onto them with beading and ribbon work. The longline basque and corset worn with a skirt are both nods to the gowns of the Disney princesses with a modern finish.

As manic and crazy as the catwalk day, we just about managed to all survive! We all managed to pull together to create a fantastic show that somehow made all of the tears and stress worth it. I’m incredibly proud of what our class managed to achieve and it’s set a very high standard for the rest of the year’s work!

Readers: What do you think of our final designs? Have you ever had your own catwalk experiences?

Karolina

Karolina

Student at De Montfort University's world-renowned Contour Fashion course. Makes many knickers in her spare time.

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Sparklewren the Boutique: an interview with Jenni Hampshire of Sparklewren Corsets

Jenni Hampshire of Sparklewren is a self-trained corsetiere whose designs aren’t just garments; they are true works of art, pairing beautiful shaping with exquisite embellishment. She will soon be embarking on the ambitious business venture of opening a pop-up corset boutique in Birmingham’s ‘Great Western Arcade’, a wonderful Victorian building in the city centre.  Having helped out with the preparations I’ve been lucky enough to see the amount of work that goes into creating these incredible corsets.  To me, they are the true definition of luxury – a mindblowing amount of attention is lavished on every last detail, from the vast amounts of boning tunnels to the intricate hand appliquéd and layered lace.  I can’t wait to see the boutique open;  Jenni was kind enough to answer a few questions about it so that you can share some of the excitement!

What originally inspired you to open a pop-up boutique?

It is something I have always wanted to do. Perhaps because of my arts background, I always picture my pieces within a context… Whether that’s as part of an ensemble, within a photograph, or within a display environment. Presenting my work within a boutique or showroom  just makes sense to me creatively, though it is of course a sensible move from a marketing point of view. Being a shy, home-based business, the people of Birmingham are perhaps not as aware of Sparklewren as they should be. The pop-up boutique will give me a platform with which to rectify that.

What sort of new challenges do you think a boutique will present that the internet doesn’t?

Probably many more than I realise! I think that negotiating what to display, how much stock to have, etc. will be crucial in conveying the idea of “bespoke”. It’s such an unusual way of dressing to most people, that I imagine people could easily assume it’s just a question of ordering Design X in size 12, when in actual fact each pieces is much more of a collaborative creative process than that. So I think I will be educating those who come through my door, in some respects.

I do love distance/online work for the sole fact that I can take my time to quietly work on an idea, quote, or email. But the pay-off of in-person work is the joy of being there when they receive their corset and being able to day-dream about the piece together. So each method of business has its pros and cons.

The Boutique window, pre-transformation

What’s your vision for the boutique?  Could you explain a little about the theme of gilding and the décor?

The boutique needs to function to present the garments, which is at the forefront of my mind… I need to remember that key fact, else I might get carried away with superfluous details! Whilst I have this overarching obsession with the notion of “gilding” as a creative ethos, I am also mindful of the fact that my boutique mustn’t overwhelm the garments.

So I am aiming for a balance of opulent grandeur and contemporary simplicity. Gilded details, chalky champagne and grey tones, soft hazy muslin drapes… a muted, elegant canvas against which my work can shine.

 

Exquisite Sparklewren detailing – lace appliqué, feathers and crystals

What has been the most exciting part of prepararing for the boutique?  What has been the most nerve wracking?

Dreaming up and creating new pieces is always the most exciting part of any project! But certainly, the interest and support I have had from friends and followers has also been wonderful and a massive confidence boost. Perfect strangers have helped out with the project and some people are already planning their journeys so that they can just see the boutique and its contents in the flesh. It’s terribly encouraging that they care so much. I mean, all I have ever wanted to do is make beautiful things, so it is a complete joy that having found my medium people are responding to it and enjoying that beauty.

As far as nerves go, I can get nervous over the silliest things sometimes. I would say that waiting for the keys to the space was the most nerve-wracking time though, as I was convinced something would happen to scupper my plans!

Gorgeous layered lace

Could you describe the show pieces that you have in mind for the boutique?  Just how amazingly shiny will they be?

Haha, very shiny! I’m working on lightly “gilded” cinchers all the way to heavily encrusted iridescent silk satin corseted gowns. I have pieces which require four or five separate layers of applied texture on top of the main construction (which in itself is a very time-consuming process) and I am thinking a lot about the relationship between silhouette and surface in these pieces.

Being a typical magpie, this is all great fun for me and I hope it will prove equally eye-catching and intriguing for my friends, peers and future potential clients.

A sheer sweetheart cincher

What sort of ready-to-wear things can we expect at the boutique?

Delicate little sweetheart cinchers with hand-cut and appliqued couture lace… potentially some little silk and lace treats such as blindfolds, panties or cami tops… and no doubt a couple of overbust corsets too, since I can’t help but create new pieces all the time.

What services do you plan to offer at the boutique?

As mentioned, I do want to update a small selection of stock items every so often, to keep the boutique pretty and satisfy some client’s decadent whims! But the focus of my work at this time really is bespoke. Primarily because I’m fickle and easily bored! Bespoke allows for each project to be exceptional, different and interesting in its own right. I believe that bridal, stage, boudoir wear… it can all be elevated by consideration of every little detail in relation to the client’s character and physique. Having display items constantly on show within the boutique (something not possible in my home studio) will encourage greater imagination, I think.

So there will be a main space for display of items, client meetings, sale of stock pieces… a hidden workspace (which will no doubt be creative chaos)… and a generous fitting area for dressing clients and checking toiles.

When is the launch and what can we expect to see there?

I’m aiming for either the 26th or 27th June for the launch, evening time, but this is still up in the air and I will let everyone know once it is confirmed. The launch will be the official unveiling of my most recent “gilded” corsets and corseted gowns, which I am massively excited about! The window (which is featuring a gilded backdrop by artist Emily Swift-Jones) will, for that one night, also feature a special guest, resplendent in golden Sparklewren finery, as a living mannequin.

I have to say, the launch excites me the most… the idea of all those sparkling, gleaming corsets, the window, the living mannequin… I want it to be overwhelming, for the visitors to feel saturated in gold, enveloped in sumptuous fabrics. I can’t wait.

A huge thank you to Jenni for taking the time to answer these questions – I think it’s safe to say that the boutique will be stunning once it’s open!   Jenni’s website can be found here.

Karolina

Karolina

Student at De Montfort University's world-renowned Contour Fashion course. Makes many knickers in her spare time.

More Posts - Website

Interactive Illustration: Show Us Your Dream Valentine’s Day Lingerie Ensemble!

By: Marianne

I’d be lying to myself (and all of you) if I didn’t admit that my monthly columns here at The Lingerie Addict tend to the verbose. So this Valentine’s Day, I invite you to join me in a hands-on activity: I’ve drawn a curvaceous fashion figure with key style lines for lingerie sketched in. You, dear readers, get to print this lady out and draw a Valentine’s Day outfit, or any other lingerie that comes to mind. For inspiration, I’ve also provided several lovely Gil Elvgren illustrations of ladies in dishabille.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Style lines included several levels of bra coverage, bra band, longline bra band, natural waist line, low rise waist, classic panty leg line, boyshort leg line, stomach control panel, thigh highs, single garter placement, elbow, wrist, and collar lines, and short and cap sleeves. Use the lines as marked or create new lines parallel to them to design lingerie and loungewear. Trim your lingerie with ruffles or lace, and add hats and other accessories to complete the look.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It can be your favorite outfit from years past.
It could be your outfit for this upcoming Valentine’s Day.
It could be what you are wearing right now because you are always just that fancy.
It could be the lingerie look you’ve dreamed of for your hypothetical (or real!) burlesque debut.

After all, a picture is worth a thousand words.

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Post a link to your sketch in the comments, using anything from ImageShack and Photobucket to an Instagram post. I’d love to see!

Lingerie Art Legends: Enoch Bolles

Though Gil Elvgren is one of pin-up’s most recognized artists today, there were plenty of other illustrators painting glamorous portraits around the same time as he. One I’ve recently re-discovered is Enoch Bolles.

Born in 1883, Bolles were a versatile illustrator who created art for products as diverse as raisins and cigarette lighters. But what he’s most remembered for today (and what’s most relevant to this blog) is his pin-up work.

Bolles illustrated over 200 covers for Film Fun magazine and another 300 covers for other risque pulp publications. His trademark sexy, skimpy costumes went on to the define certain key aspects of the pin-up look for the next several decades.


What do you think of Enoch Bolles art? If you like the images shown here, I’ve posted several more to The Lingerie Addict Facebook page. Click the link and take a look!

The Glamorous Pin-up Art of Bill Ward

As you’ve probably noticed, most Friday features here on The Lingerie Addict are dedicated to photography.  But every once in awhile, I like to change it up my highlighting artists of a different sort.  In the past year or so, I’ve featured modern favorites like Neryl, Amano Jyaku, and Caitlin Shearer, but today I’m going wayyy back and paying tribute to the grandaddy of glamorous pin-ups, Bill Ward.

If you like what you see here, then check out the book, The Glamour Girls of Bill Ward.  As always, I’d love to hear what your favorite image is in the comments!